Contra Costa County History

The First Carquinez Straits Ferry

For many years the only ferry on the waters flowing from the Sacramento River out through the Golden Gate was maintained at Martinez. This was the point at which all travelers crossed the Straits of Carquinez when journeying north or south, and it was here, about 1849, that the first ferry was established. In that year Doctor Semple, of Benicia, established a ferry running from Benicia to a point near the spot now occupied by Alhambra Cemetery. This boat was at first propelled by oars, but later a wheel was put on the boat and it was run by horse-power. This was continued until 1851, when Captain Oliver C. Coffin purchased the flat-bottomed ferry-boat "Ione," which commenced carrying passengers across the San Joaquin River between Antioch and Collinsville about the year 1850. Captain Coffin brought the boat to Martinez and remodeled it to suit his needs here. At Antioch the craft had been propelled across the river by horse-power, but that primitive mode of ferrying would not do at Martinez, so an engine was put into the "Ione," and the craft was propelled by steam.

The "Ione" plied regularly between Martinez and Benicia until July, 1854, carrying passengers and freight. The boat landing was at the foot of Ferry Street. There was no wharf or ferry slip at that time, but the boat ran close to the bank and an apron was used to connect it with the shore.

After being relieved from ferry duty in 1854, the "Ione" was used for a time as a float for a pile-driver, but for many years the hull has been rotting in the tules near the Ferry Street wharf, where it was grounded and abandoned when its days of usefulness were past.

Before the "Ione" was taken from the route, a short wharf was built, as the straits commenced to fill with earth washed down from the country above, and it was found impossible to effect a landing. The filling continued, and it became necessary to extend the wharf from time to time until it reached two thousand feet beyond the point where the steamer landed when her first trips were made.

In 1853 a steam ferry-boat was framed in New York and brought around Cape Horn to Martinez, where it arrived in the spring of 1854. The craft was put together here, and was launched in April, 1854, but did not commence to run regularly until July of that year. It was called the "Carquinez," and was the property of Captain Oliver C., Charles G., and Henry Coffin. Seth M. Swain was also at one time captain of this boat.

Great numbers of cattle, sheep, and hogs were conveyed across the straits in the early days, it being not an uncommon thing for a thousand head of stock to be carried over in one day. Many of the animals were wild and unruly, and momentary excitement was sometimes caused on the trip by a frightened steer leaping over the rail into the water.

A large corral was built on the ground now occupied by the Southern Pacific Company, and into this inclosure the stock were driven while awaiting transportation. This corral was not a flimsy affair by any means, but was composed of a double tier of cordwood four feet long and piled about six feet high. This wood was used for making steam on the ferry, but enough was always kept on hand to form a substantial corral.

The business of ferrying was very profitable, as stock was constantly on the move between the north and the south, it being the custom to drive the animals back and forth to obtain the benefit of the best pasturage. A charge was made of one dollar a head to ferry cattle across the straits during the time the "Ione" and the "Carquinez" were on the route. The ferry-boat also carried the mails, and, in addition, to the other passenger traffic, many Martinez children attending school at Benicia were daily passengers. People going to and from San Francisco were also frequent patrons of the ferry, as it was necessary for the residents of the country south of the straits to go to Benicia to take the steamer that plied between Sacramento and the city by the Golden Gate.

The "Carquinez" was finally condemned as unsafe, and a new boat, called the "Benicia," was constructed under the direction of Charles Henry, of Danville. The engine used on the "Carquinez" was transferred to the "Benicia," and the old craft was broken up about the year 1877. It was some time after the railroad was built that the ferry between Martinez and Benicia was discontinued, owing to the competition of the railroad company's mammoth ferry-boat "Solano," which commenced to ply between Benicia and Port Costa. The subsequent history of the "Benicia" is not known, but for some time she was engaged in traffic in the vicinity of Coronado.

RIVER COMMUNICATION*

The Sacramento River is navigable from the bay northward to Sacramento, 120 miles, for large, commodious steamers, as fine as any upon the rivers in Eastern States. They ply daily to Sacramento, stopping at Martinez, New York, and Antioch; smaller light-craft steamers ply regularly to Red Bluff, 250 miles farther, and on the Feather River, sixty miles, to Marysville. The San Joaquin River is also navigable for large steamers, which ply to Stockton, 120 miles. Above Stockton, light draft-vessels ascend toward Visalia, 200 miles, and also for some distance up its branches, the Stanislaus and Tuolumne rivers, and also the Mokelumne River. The light-draft steamers on all these rivers carry with them large barges, in which the crops of the farmers, firewood, and other products are cheaply and rapidly transported to a market at San Francisco at very low rates. A number of the creeks and sloughs emptying into the Bay of Suisun are also navigable, and are ascended by numerous steamers and sailing craft, which carry freight and passengers at reasonable prices. Thus a large portion of the county is to a great extent independent of the railroad, while the competition between land and water carriage insures low rates of freights and fares on both.

The San Joaquin River is divided into three branches, known, respectively, as the west, middle, and east channels - the last-named being not the main stream, but the one used by the steamboats and sailing vessels bound to and from Stockton - or, at least within four miles of that city, from which point the Stockton Slough is used. The east (or main) channel is navigable for small stern-wheel steamboats as far as Fresno City.

The first mail ever carried up the Sacramento River was on July 24, 1849, by Captain Seth M. Swain, of Martinez, in the schooner "John Dunlap." The mail matter was all contained in one bag, and the captain received six hundred dollars for the service, while the entire postage on the contents of the mail was less than sixty dollars.

This is one of the chief bays that border the Contra Costa coast. Many of the gold-seekers here found a watery grave, or foundered upon the middle grounds of the bay. In the fall of 1850 a schooner struck on the lower end of the middle ground. The wind and waves soon broke her up, and the flour with which she was laden was cast upon the bay. Those coming up the bay could pick up a barrel or two for use, and one boat was engaged a long time in salvaging the flour, which was sold to the baker at New York of the Pacific for five dollars a barrel. Supposing the flour to be worthless, some refused to give any price. However, it was but little damaged; even after a week's soaking in the waters of the bay - wetting the barrel and flour half an inch deep, making the whole mass impervious to water.

Another schooner struck on a less dangerous ground three miles from New York Landing. As she was wrong and staunchly built, she sat upon the sand of the middle ground, and the sailors could walk around her at low tide. The captain and crew found a near cut to the channel, and, by the use of miners' spades and with the help of the passengers, they dug a way for the schooner to the nearest point of the channel. The wind and tide serving right, a kedge anchor was put out, and the schooner and cargo were saved. They all went up the bay rejoicing at their good luck and their escape from the dangers of Suisun Bay.

Before a perfect chart of the bay was made, a number of boats, filled with the hurrying crowds compelled to navigate these waters on their trips to Stockton and Sacramento, were stove in and swamped upon the middle sand-bars. On one occasion, when a boat was foundered, the passengers, after swimming to the south shore across the channel, were compelled to swim a slough a hundred feet wide before they could reach New York Landing. Whale-boats have tied up at this place for a week at a time, awaiting favorable winds before venturing on Suisun Bay.

In 1850 the ship "Henry Lee" was cast ashore near the landing, and lay there for about a year before she was finally floated and sent to sea again.

From a mile below Antioch to Marsh's Landing, three miles abovr the town, there are neither rocks nor shoals, making a clear channel, with an average depth of forty feet, where four or five vessels may swing at anchor side by side.

Southern Pacific Railway

In 1877, after a number of surveys had been made, it was decided by the owners of the Central Pacific line to build through Contra Costa County, on account of its natural advantages and scenic beauty, thus filling in the last link of one of the most central routes across the country, and the road was completed in 1878.

After the completion of the line, and settlers began to arrive, there was a steady growth of population throughout the entire county. The stage-coaches that had been running to the various points in the county disappeared one by one, and the old sailboats, such as were operated in the early days by one of Richmond's first settlers, John R. Nystrom, were found to be too slow to take care of the freight traffic. The older villages likewise soon became scenes if activity, having a steady growth, so that we now have a number of cities and towns, and rank in the State as the leading county in manufacturing. The principal industries are located at Antioch, Pittsburg, Nichols, Bay Point, Avon, Peyton, Mococo, Martinez, Port Costa, Crockett, Selby, Oleum, Rodeo, Hercules, Giant, Richmond, and Stege. Of these the two principal cities leading in manufacturing are Richmond and Pittsburg. Other cities and towns in the county located along this portion of the line, and which owe their origin or upbuilding to the Southern Pacific Company, are Byron, Brentwood, Neroly, Newlove, Prince, Los Medanos, McAvoy, Amorce, Nevada Dock, Martinez, Eckley, Vallejo Junction, Tormey, Pinole, Krieger, Sobrante, and San Pablo.

Byron, Shortly after the line was completed, became greatly noted for its mineral springs, these being rated as among the best of their kind in the United States, and since the advent of the railroad have been visited by thousands of people from all parts of the world, not only by those who are in search of health, but by all who desire to benefit from their invigorating and healthful properties.

Antioch is the emporium of an agricultural section that produces more food supplies than any other part of the county. It sends out annually a large tonnage of hay, grain, celery, asparagus, onions, potatoes, grapes, peaches, apricots, almonds, wine, lumber, and live-stock. The largest paper-mill in the State is located at Antioch, and the city also boasts of one of the largest asparagus plants.

Pittsburg, formerly known as Cornwall and Black Diamond, has a population of over five thousand people. It is situated not only on the Southern Pacific line, but also on deep water where California's two greatest rivers, the San Joaquin and the Sacramento, join to form Suisun Bay. These rivers furnish an unlimited supply of good water for boiler and manufacturing purposes, and factories having their own water-frontage can install pumping plants, giving an independent supply. A great many industries have located in this city on account of its excellent railroad and water facilities. Among the enterprises shipping millions of pounds of freight from Pittsburg annually are the Columbia Steel Company, Redwood Manufacturing Company, Diamond Brick Company, Bowers Rubber Works, Johnson & Lanteri Shipyards, American Fish & Oyster Company, Lindenburger & Company, California Fruit Canners Association, and the Sacramento River Packers Association.

Bay Point is the location of some large industries, among which is the C. A. Smith Lumber Company, famous for its great wholesale plant, shipping during the year thousands of carloads of its products to various parts of the country.

Nichols, Peyton, and Mococo have their chemical plants.

Port Costa is noted for its large grain elevators, located near water as well as rail, and handles during the summer seasons immense quantities of cereals.

Selby's great smelters, controlled by the Selby Smelting & Lead Company, make heavy shipments of gold, silver, and lead by freight and express.

Oleum is the location of the Union Oil Company's great refinery.

Hercules and Giant have the extensive manufacturing plants of the Hercules Powder Company and the Giant Powder Company.

At Stege is located the California Cap Works.

Richmond is the largest city in the county, and has had the most rapid growth. About 1900 it had a small station at Barrett Avenue, but later a depot was erected by the Southern Pacific Company at Macdonald Avenue. In 1905 at this depot there was handled 107,332 tons of freight; in 1910, 535,492 tons; in 1914, 738,304 tons. The largest refinery west of Whiting, Indiana, being located here, and owned by the Standard Oil Company, has had much to do with the growth of the town. Other large plants, such as the California Wine Association, Western Pipe & Steel Company, Richmond Feed & Grain Company, Schreck Furniture Company, Pacific Porcelain Ware Company, Berkeley Steel Company, and others, doing a large business, have added much to the growth and prosperity of this growing center.

The people of the San Ramon Valley, seeing the prosperous condition of the cities along the main line, and the advantages to be gained by having rail transportation, petitioned the Southern Pacific Company to build a road through that valley, and the San Ramon branch was built in the year 1890, opening up one of the most fertile fruit and agricultural valleys in the State. Yearly numerous carload shipments of green and dried fruits, nuts, and agricultural products are moving from Walnut Creek, Danville, Concord, and the smaller towns located on this branch, such as San Ramon, Osage, Alamo, Widboro, Oxlay, Las Juntas, Hookston, Nacio, and Galindo.

The passenger service of the Southern Pacific Company in Contra Costa County is unexcelled, both as to the number of trains and equipment, there being forty-four trains daily between Port Costa and Byron, and four trains daily on the San Ramon branch. Commutation tickets for individuals or families with various limits enable the citizens to travel cheaply to various parts of the county. Since its inception, the line has been double-tracked between most of the principal points and has four main-line tracks leading into Richmond. It is equipped with block signals, and no expense is spared by the management in making it in the safe line to travel on. The Southern Pacific has the "Safety Medal" awarded by the American Museum of Safety, so that Contra Costa County can boast of having not only the best but the safest of railroad facilities.

The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe

In the early part of 1895 the general feeling that central California and San Francisco needed the competition of another transcontinental railway crystallized in the subscription, mainly from San Francisco residents and merchants, of approximately two and a half millions of dollars, to be applied to the construction of a railway from San Francisco through Stockton to Bakersfield. As a result of this subscription of the San Francisco & San Joaquin Valley Railroad Company were filed, the first directors being as follows: Claus Spreckels, John D. Spreckels, W. F. Whittier, J. B. Stetson, Robert Watt, A. H. Payson, Charles Holbrook, Lewis Gerstle, Alvinza Hayward, Isaac Upham, Thomas Magee.

In order to ensure against the possibility of the new company's being absorbed by its predecessor, the voting power of all its stock was placed in the hands of a board of trustees composed as follows: Thomas Brown, Daniel Meyer, Lovell White, James Cross, A. B. Spreckels, James D. Phelan, O. D. Baldwin, F. W. Sicklen, Christian de Guigne.

In February, 1896, the trustees and the directors joined in executing a mortgage on the entire property as security for an issue of six million dollars in bonds, the proceeds of which were to be used in the completion and equipment of the line.

It was decided at the outset to begin construction at Stockton, building south to Bakersfield, the reason being that a water connection could be had with Stockton, and in this way the new property might be made to earn an income from the start and before undertaking the comparatively costly work between Stockton and San Francisco.

The survey for the new road began at Stockton on April 18, 1895, and actual construction on July 22 of the same year. The track reached Merced on Thanksgiving day, 1895, and Fresno on October 5, 1896, from which town a regular passenger and freight service was inaugurated with Stockton, with a San Francisco connection maintained by traffic arrangement with the boats between Stockton and that point. During the year 1899, as a result of negotiations to that end, which had been conducted during the preceding year, and after a full discussion between the public, the trustees, and the stockholders, the property was sold to the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway Company, the price paid being the assumption of the outstanding bonded indebtedness and par for the stock. By this arrangement the stockholders lost the interest on their money during the period of construction, but believed themselves fully justified in this by the advantage which could result - and which was their main object in inaugurating the enterprise - in the competitive service of another transcontinental road for San Francisco and central California.

During 1899 and 1900 the line between Stockton and San Francisco, with the Point Richmond terminal, was completed. This work practically exhausted the funds derived from the stock subscription and bonded issue, and the Point Richmond and San Francisco terminals and the boats, barges and tugs used for freight and passenger connection between Point Richmond and San Francisco were provided for by funds advanced by the Santa Fe Company.

Shortly after the acquisition of the property by the Santa Fe Company, it secured through negotiations with the Southern Pacific Company what amounts to half-ownership in the latter's line between Bakersfield and Mohave, where a junction was had with the existing Santa Fe lines, thus completing a transcontinental railway from San Francisco to Chicago under one ownership.

The Santa Fe shops were located at Richmond in 1900, during which time trains, engines, and cars were taken care of in the open on temporary tracks. The machine-shops were completed sufficiently to move the headquarters from Stockton to Richmond January 26, 1901, on which date the headquarters were abandoned at Stockton and established at Richmond. The choice of Richmond for headquarter machine shops was principally on account of climatic conditions, making it better for shop artizans, particularly during the summer months, getting away from the heat of the San Joaquin Valley.

The investment at Richmond consists approximately of the following items: Right of way, $473,737.26; Grading, $14,375.36; tracks, $79,090.48; buildings, shop machinery and tools, water and oil facilities, $423,568.53. Total, $990,771.63.

There are employed at present in all departments, including engine and train employees, about seven hundred men. About three hundred locomotives, twenty-five thousand freight cars, and sixteen thousand passenger cars are repaired yearly. The pay-roll amounts to approximately $45,000 a month.

The Oakland, Antioch & Eastern Railway

A twelve-hundred-volt electric line between San Francisco, Oakland, Danville, Pittsburg, and Sacramento, while young in history, is furnishing the patrons along its way with every necessary railway service known to the present day.

The road-bed, of first importance, is rock-ballasted from the company's own rock quarry and crusher at Valle Vista. Many of the passenger-coaches are of steel, and all of the new equipment to be purchased in the future will be of steel construction. The coaches have roomy and comfortable seats. Parlor observation-cars are run on three of the fast express trains each way, "The Comet," "The Meteor," and "The Sacramento Valley Limited." The observation-cars on the two latter trains runs through to Chico via the Northern Electric Railway, and make the round trip daily. The entire line is protected by autonomic block signals and traverses a section of country noted for its scenery and beautiful fertile valleys.

Passengers leave San Francisco via the Key Route ferry, Market Street, crossing the bay to the Key Route mole, Oakland, where the Oakland, Antioch & Eastern Railway train is boarded. The train passes through the heart of the city of Oakland over Fortieth Street to the Oakland depot at Fortieth Street and Shafter Avenue, then along Shafter Avenue to the Berkeley Hills, where the train climbs along the sides of these picturesque ridges. Near the top, at Cape Horn, a rift in the mountainous hills shows a grand panoramic view of the city of Oakland, Alameda, and the waters beyond. After this parting view of the city of Oakland, the train passes through steep wooded hills of green foliage until the highest point is reached, where the train enters a tunnel, the eastern end of which opens into Redwood Canon, a natural picnic park about three miles long. Here may be seen almost every kind of California tree and wild plant from the redwoods, standing straight and tall, to the numerous varieties of ferns and wild roses which grow in rank profusion everywhere.

Emerging from Redwood Canon you see the Moraga Valley spread out like a map below. Presently the train is on the floor of this fertile and beautiful valley at Moraga Station, the center of a settlement of commuters.

After leaving Moraga, Country Club, Burton, and Lafayette in their turn, the train enters the San Ramon valley at Saranap, where a branch line extends to the prettily situated towns of Alamo, Danville, and Diablo Station at the foot of Mount Diablo, where an auto stage can be taken to the summit, from which point a wonderful view is had of the surrounding country. By reason of the continuous clear weather around Mount Diablo, one is almost always assured of a good clear view.

Walnut Creek, the center of commercial activity of San Ramon Valley, is surrounded by orchards and gardens. Large oaks, characteristic of this section, mark the unusual depth and fertility of the soil. Farther on is Meinert Station, on the edge of Pacheco Valley. The center of the business activity of this valley is Concord, situated at the foot of Mount Diablo, at the junction of Pacheco, San Ramon, and Ygnacio valleys. It is a pretty little town of historical interest in connection with early California. It has paved streets, sewer and water systems, as well as gas and electric light.

Next comes Bay Point, on the shores of Suisun Bay. The train then follows along the bay, passing West Pittsburg, where a branch line connects the thriving industrial city of Pittsburg with the main line, until Mallard Island is reached. Here the Suisun Bay is only 2200 feet wide, and the entire train is ferried across on the steel boat "Ramon," propelled by gasoline engines of unusual power. The "Ramon" is fitted with comforts and conveniences for passengers who wish to get off the train and stretch themselves while crossing the bay. A lunch-room is maintained on the lower deck.

After leaving Chipps Island, on the opposite shore, the train presently crosses Montezuma Slough at Dutton Station, then, passing Molena Station, at the foot of the Montezuma Hills, traverses an extensive territory of large ranches.

After leaving Dixon Junction, where a branch line runs to Dixon, an important town of Solano County, the train proceeds through Maine Prairie, Bunker, Millar, and Saxon, and then crosses the Yolo Basin to Glide Landing. On the bank of the Sacramento River, following this river through the fertile and productive lands of West Sacramento and crossing over the M-Street bridge enters Sacramento at Front and M streets. Passengers may alight from the train at Third and K streets or the terminal depot at Third and I streets.

The beginning of the railroad grew out of the minds of a few enterprising men of Contra Costa County and vicinity. The principal founders were A. W. Maltby, of Concord; Walter Arnstein, of Alamo, now president; Samuel L. Napthaly, of San Francisco, now vice-president; and Harry A. Mitchell, of San Francisco, now secretary and general manager. The gentlemen were familiar with all the fertile valleys of Moraga, San Ramon, Ygnacio, and Pacheco, but deplored the round-about routes that connected these valleys with the bay cities. Hiring expert engineers to make a report of the feasibility of a direct line between San Francisco and the above-mentioned valleys, the present route of the railroad was decided upon after checking up the report of the engineers. As soon as this decision was made the Oakland & Antioch Railway was organized and incorporated in January, 1909. Building was started February 1909, at Bay Point, and the line was put into operation between Bay Point and Walnut Creek in May, 1911. Still building toward Oakland, and extending the service as the track was built, the Oakland & Antioch Railway was completed and service installed between Bay Point and Oakland in April, 1913.

On April 1, 1911, the Oakland, Antioch & Eastern Railway was incorporated to build a line from Bay Point to Sacramento, with a branch line about two miles long from West Pittsburg to Pittsburg. Building commenced in July, 1912, and the line from Bay Point to Pittsburg was completed and put into operation in August, 1913. In the meantime, the Oakland, Antioch, & Eastern Railway leased the Oakland & Antioch Railway and also the San Ramon Valley Railroad, running from Saranap on the main line to Danville. Finally, in September, 1913, the Oakland, Antioch & Eastern Railway was completed to Sacramento and put into service the same month.

Since then the railway has been broadening out in its field of service to its patrons. Trains at convenient hours were put on between San Francisco and Concord for the commuters who live in the pretty towns in Contra Costa County and work in Oakland and San Francisco. Low commutation rates and excursion fares were arranged for. Freight service was looked after closely to develop it to the needs of the communities along the line. This led to putting on a fast fruit and vegetable train during the season to make delivery at Oakland at 4 o'clock in the morning. Through freight connections were secured with the Southern Pacific, Western Pacific, and Santa Fe railroads, which resulted in reducing the freight rate to eastern points. This encouraged fruit shippers to erect packing-houses adjacent to the large acreages of heavily producing orchards. At the present time a rice experiment farm at Millar Station is the result of the efforts of this company to get the farmers interested in more profitable crops.

The distance from San Francisco to Sacramento is 92.9 miles, with branch lines as follows: Saranap to Diablo, nine miles; Meinert to Walwood, three miles; West Pittsburg to Pittsburg, two miles.

The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe

The Santa Fe shops were located at Richmond in 1900, during which time trains, engines, and cars were taken care of in the open on temporary tracks. The machine-shops were completed sufficiently to move the headquarters from Stockton to Richmond January 26, 1901, on which date the headquarters were abandoned at Stockton and established at Richmond. The choice of Richmond for headquarter machineshops was principally on account of climatic conditions, making it better for shop artizans, particularly during the summer months, getting away from the heat of the San Joaquin Valley.

The Oakland, Antioch & Eastern Railway

The beginning of the railroad grew out of the minds of a few enterprising men of Contra Costa County and vicinity. The principal founders were A. W. Maltby, of Concord; Walter Arnstein, of Alamo, now president; Samuel L. Napthaly, of San Francisco, now vice-president; and Harry A. Mitchell, of San Francisco, now secretary and general manager. The gentlemen were familiar with all the fertile valleys of Moraga, San Ramon, Ygnacio, and Pacheco, but deplored the round-about routes that connected these valleys with the bay cities. Hiring expert engineers to make a report of the feasability of a direct line between San Francisco and the above-mentioned valleys, the present route of the railroad was decided upon after checking up the report of the engineers. As soon as this decision was made the Oakland & Antioch Railway was organized and incorporated in January, 1909. Building was started February 1909, at Bay Point, and the line was put into operation between Bay Point and Walnut Creek in May, 1911. Still building toward Oakland, and extending the service as the track was built, the Oakland & Antioch Railway was completed and service installed between Bay Point and Oakland in April, 1913.

The distance from San Francisco to Sacramento is 92.9 miles, with branch lines as follows: Saranap to Diablo, nine miles; Meinert to Walwood, three miles; West Pittsburg to Pittsburg, two miles.

Transcribed by Sally Kaleta

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