Contra Costa County

History

SOURCE:  The History of Contra Costa County, California - published by The Elms Publishing Co., Inc., Berkeley, California, 1917

 

CHAPTER XXVII

ANTIOCH

By Rudolph A. Wilson, Of The Antioch Ledger Staff

 
                 ANTIOCH is one of the oldest towns in California, having been originally founded in 1850, the year following the discovery of Gold, and has a history in every way as interesting and romantic as any of the early settlements in the Golden State. In the brief space allotted me it will be impossible to more than scratch the surface of things historical, and it will be my purpose to refer only briefly to the more important and interesting items of the early history of our beautiful little city, which gives promise in the not distant future of becoming one of the leading interior cities in California.
                 During the past few years a considerable number of people have made inquiry at the Ledger office for information concerning the name "Antioch." "How did Antioch get its name?" is the question usually asked, though some have wanted to know the derivation of the word. For the purpose of  supplying satisfactory answers to these questions I have been asked to prepare an article that will give such information as is available. I have found the subject intensely interesting, and am constrained to add such other data, historical and otherwise, as have come to my notice in the course of my investigations.
                 Most of my readers, I dare say, are aware that the name is often mentioned in the Bible, and some at least will recall that it was in the ancient city of Antioch the followers of the meek and lowly Nazarene were first called "Christians."* Some may not know, however, that the ancient city of Antioch in Asia was named in honor of the tyrant king Antiochus, the arch-enemy of the Maccabean Jews. The following historical sketch will furnish such information as is now extant concerning our ancient namesake:
                "Antioch, the ancient capital of the Greek kings of Syria, and long
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     *See Acts xi:26.
 
the chief city of Asia, lies in a beautiful and fertile plain, on the left bank of the river Orontes, fourteen miles from the sea. In ancient times, by its navigable river and its harbor, Seleucia, it had communication with all the maritime cities of the west, while it became on the other hand an emporium for the merchandise of the east, for behind it lay the vast Syrian desert, across which traveled the caravans from Mesopotamia and Syria. The city was erected by Seleucus Nicator about 300 B. C., and was the most splendid of sixteen cities built by him in honor of his father, Antiochus. In early times a part stood upon an island which has now disappeared. The rest was built partly on the plain and partly on the rugged ascent toward Mount Cassius, amid vineyards and fruit-trees. The ancients called it 'Antioch the Beautiful, 'and 'The Crown of the East.' It was a favorite residence of the Seleucid princes and of the wealthy Romans, and was famed throughout the world fpr its splendid luxury. Its public edifices were magnificent. The city reached its greatest glory in the time of Antiochus the Great, and under the Roman emperors of the first three centuries. At that time it contained 500,000 inhabitants, and vied in splendor with Rome itself. Nor did its glory fade immediately after the founding of Constantinople; for though it then ceased to be the first city of the east, it rose into new dignity as a Christian city. It was one of the earliest strongholds of the new faith - indeed, it was here that the name "Christian" was first used. During the apostolic age, it was the center of missionary enterprise, and it became the seat of one of the four patriarchs. Ten councils were held here from 252 to 380 A. D. Churches sprang up exhibiting a new style of architecture which soon became prevalent; and even Constantine spent a considerable time here, adorning it, and strengthening its harbor, Seleucia. The downfall of the city dates from the fifth century. In 538 it was reduced to ashes by the Persian king Chosroes, but was partly rebuilt by Justinian. The next important event in its history was its conquest by the Saracens in the seventh century. In the ninth century it was recovered by the Greeks under Nicephorus Phocas, but in 1084 it again into the hands of the Mohammedans. The Crusaders beseiged and took it in 1098. At the close of the thirteenth century, the Sultan of Egypt seized it. At present it forms a portion of Syria, in the province of Aleppo, and has a population of 17, 500, mostly Turks, employed in silk-culture, eel-fishing, and in the production of corn and oil. It exhibits almost no traces of its former grandeur, except the ruins of the walls built by Justinian and of the fortress erected by the Crusaders. It suffered from an earthquake in 1872.
                  "Another ancient city named Antioch is situated in Pisidia, founded also by Nicator. It was declared a free city by the Romans in the second century B. C., and made a colonia under Augustus, with the name Caesarea. It was often visited by St. Paul."
                 The thoughtful reader will notice several interesting points of resemblance in this description of the ancient Antioch and our own fair city. First, note that it lay on the left bank of the river, in a fertile and beautiful plain, fourteen miles from the sea. Next, note the reference to the rugged ascent toward the mount (substitute Diablo for Cassius, and you will note a topographical likeness) amid vineyards and fruit-trees. A close scrutiny of a map of the locality in which the Asian city stands will reveal other striking points of resemblance. Also, a picture of the water-front of Antioch in Asia is remarkably like a corresponding view of Antioch, California, as seen from the river. The principal difference which will occur to you is in the matter of size, in which detail the ancient city compares better with San Francisco or Los Angeles. These resemblances, striking as they are, however, are purely coincidences, as there is not the slightest reason for believing that they occurred to the minds of the people who chose the name for their place, the name having been selected, as will be shown further on in this article, by a minister of the Christian denomination, for reasons which are obvious.
                  Antioch is one of twelve towns in the United States bearing this name. There were thirteen, but one of the post-offices - Antioch, Arkansas, - was discontinued by the Government in 1916, its patrons now being served by a rural free delivery route from Beebe. Believing that you will be interested to learn something of these twelve namesakes, I have sent inquiries to them, and every one has responded, some with very interesting letters. This much may be said now, however; Antioch, California, is the largest and most important of them all, many of the others being little more than country post-offices. Antioch, Illinois, is the next largest, and is the only other one in which there is a newspaper published.
                  Antioch was not the first name of this locality, it having been originally adjacent to a settlement known by the more pretentious title of "New York of the Pacific," which was designed to become the metropolis of the Pacific Coast. It was known in early times as Smith's Landing, from the Rev. W. W. Smith and his brother, Joseph H. Smith, who were among the original settlers. In the following paragraphs we give historical sketches written by the Rev. W. W. Smith and Captain George W. Kimball, which will be especially interesting to those who are disposed to hark back to the early days. Captain Kimball's article follows:
 
                     "In 1848, I ran a packet between Maine and New York, and on my last
                 trip I made up my mind to go to California, and conceived and drew up a
                 plan for building a ship to carry poor people like myself. It resulted in the
                 following agreement: 'We, the undersigned, are desirous of engaging in an
                 enterprise on the golden shores of California, the Paradise of America,
                 where summer reigns perpetually; while the fertile soil is yielding its
                 increase abundantly, fruits growing spontaneously, fishes sporting most
                 plentifully, and where wild game is most prolific, on the shores of the
                 Pacific. Our subject is to settle a township, or effect a permanent settle-
                 ment on the coast of California, at some central point, in some capacious
                 and commodious harbor, where the salubrity of the climate, the fertility of
                 the soil, mill privileges, timber for ship-building, and other purposes, con-
                 veniences for fisheries, for coasting, and other natural advantages, shall
                 warrant a healthy and rapid settlement. For the accomplishment of the
                 above-mentioned object, we appoint George W. Kimball, of Frankfort,
                 county of Waldo, State of Maine, as our lawful agent, to purchase or build,
                 man and equip, a ship suitable to perform said voyage to California; said
                 ship to be ready for sea by the 10th day of October, 1849. From two to
                 three of us will build and own a fine packet of six hundred tons, by paying
                 $101 each; this packet will make one voyage per annum from Maine to
                 California, taking out passengers, produce, etc., and returning with the
                 exports of the Pacific. We will take our families, farming utensils, tools for
                 the mechanic, and apparatus for a sawmill. On our arrival the first object
                 will be to select a township; second, build a sawmill; erect a public depot
                 for our families and baggage, until private dwellings can be built. When the
                 packet sails, a school will commence for all on board, where the art of
                 reading, writing, arithmetic, navigation, surveying, and such other branches
                 of natural science will be taught as will be most needed in the new settle-
                 ment.'
                      "In pursuance of the above plan we went into the woods with a crew to
                 get out timber for constructing a ship. Robert Douglass, a carpenter, com-
                 menced laying the ship's keel about the first of April, 1849. Douglas was
                 alone the first week; the second week two young men joined him. The
                 company increased until sixty-five men were at work on their own ship.
                 On the 14th of November the ship, partly rigged, sailed for Boston. As the
                 enterprise was a novelty, we were freely advertised by the newspapers;
                 merchants contributed freight, and became interested in seeing the vessel
                 supplied with all needed ship chandlery.
                      "March 4, 1850, we set sail for California, with two hundred persons on
                 board, and arrived at San Francisco, all well, August 24th. The cholera was
                 in San Francisco; many were sick, and some had died. I landed in good
                 health the number that sailed from Boston, and three marines who swam
                 aboard our ship in Rio Janeiro, and fourteen passengers who came aboard
                 at Valparaiso, making 217 men, women and children. My company soon
                 scattered, and many went to the mines. I sold the ship, paid my bills, and
                 sat down to rest. About the 15th of September, Rev. W. W. Smith came on
                 board our ship, and invited us to go to Antioch, and settle. It was then
                 called New York Township. My brother, S. P. Kimball, went to Antioch;
                 several others went with him and built houses for their families east of
                 where my house now stands. A ship's galley was moved to a lot, near
                 where the present brick school-house now stands, and Martha Douglass
                 taught the first school in our settlement. After that my daughter, Adelia,
                 taught the school. My brother and I hired a man and cut hay on Kimball
                 and Sherman islands. I took it to San Francisco in my scow, and sold it
                 for sixty dollars per ton. Mr. Smith afterwards moved away from Antioch,
                 so that I am the first permanent settler. I built two small wharves for re-
                 ceiving coal. I was the first postmaster, the first notary public, the first
                 justice of the peace, and the first school trustee in Antioch.
                      "I suppose I owned the section I lived on until 1865, as I had bought
                 all the titles I knew of. Garcia told me his New York ranch did not reach
                 me, but they finally located it over my place, and covered my improve-
                 ments, and the courts said it was all right. After the New York grant took
                 my land I bought a few parcels of land to save some improvements, and
                 then fled to the tule island opposite Pittsburg Landing with my stock. I
                 spent part of two seasons there, dairying and raising hogs. I also bought
                 the little island opposite Antioch; from this island my son, Edgar H.
                 Kimball, supplies Antioch with Milk."

 

Rev. W. W. Smith says:
                       "We sailed from Boston Harbor on the 11th of January, 1849, together
                     with my brother, Joseph H. Smith, J. C. McMasters, and about fifty
                     others. On the 6th day of July, 1849, we passed through the Golden
                     Gate, amid the cheers of the passengers, and three or four hours later
                     came the ship 'Edward Everett,' which we had not seen since leaving
                     Boston harbor. As we gazed upon the shore from the ship, nothing but
                     a city of tents could be seen. Before leaving the vessel, the captain
                     called us on deck to have a friendly chat before bidding each other
                     farewell and separating on our various ways. Arriving on shore, we found
                     but five American families in the city, the balance being Mexicans and
                     Indians Indians. We remained in San Francisco five days, when we
                     shipped on board the schooner 'Rialto' for the mouth of the San Joaquin
                     River, where we arrived on the 11th of July, just six months from Boston
                     Bay.
                        "Colonel J. D. Stevenson and Doctor William Parker had purchased
                     a part of the Los Medanos grant, and had set up the lumber, fixtures, etc.,
                     to commence the building of a house for the two families, who, for the
                     present, had only a tent for protection. Mr. Beener and Antonio Mesa
                     and family lived two miles farther up the river. Mesa's house was built of
                     redwood logs stood on end for the sides, and was covered with tules in
                     bundles for a roof, with a hole in the center to allow the smoke to escape
                     and contained two rooms.
                        "New York of the Pacific was fast becoming an inland city, and the
                     harbor was full of vessels with men and cargoes for the mines. At the
                     first election, under the new constitution, in 1855, we found, on shore and
                     on shipboard, that we had from five hundred to eight hundred voters when
                     all were at home. Business continued to increase, and the New York
                     House, conducted by the Smiths, became a popular temperance eating-
                     house, while all the others sold liquor. When coin was scarce a pinch of
                     gold dust paid for a drink.
                        "The proclamation of Governor Riley had been issued to have all needed
                     officers elected. W. W. Smith was the first elected alcalde of New York of
                     the Pacific and of this newly formed district. The alcalde had charge of all
                     sanitary, civil, criminal, and judicial affairs in his district, with full power
                     to appoint his officers, levy taxes, and collect fees. The alcalde spent some
                     two thousand dollars in time, money, and medicines, in caring for the
                     sick and dead, none of which was ever reimbursed, and he found the
                     position honorary and very expensive.
                        "In September, 1850, W. W. Smith, hearing of the arrival of a shipload
                     of settlers in San Francisco, hastened down and found a number of
                     families who wished to obtain land and settle in California. Captain
                     George W. Kimball and brother, Robert Douglass, four or five Hathaways,
                     a Mr. Marshall and son, and a Mr. Dennison, came to Antioch, which at
                     that time was called Smith's Landing. A street was laid out running east
                     by compass, and each family that wished to settle upon land was
                     presented with a lot to build on. The Pulsifer brothers then established
                     a garden on the point, watering the same by a simple wooden pump, fixed
                     in the slough between the point and the mainland. By the united work of
                     all, a fence and ditch were completed from the tules on the west of town to
                     the tules on the east, in the spring of 1851, to keep the wild animals
                     from entering the town.
                        "On the fourth of July, 1851, a basket picnic was held at the residence
                     of  W. W. Smith, then standing on the high ground near where the
                     Antioch Ledger office now is. The all-absorbing topic of the day was 'What
                     shall we name our town?' Between thirty and forty men, women, and
                     children had gathered from far and near. Several names were proposed,
                     among them 'Minton,' after a steamer that plied on the river, that she
                     might be induced to stop at our town. Another proposed that the name be
                     'Paradise,' but Deacon Pulsifer remarked that there were many claimants
                     to the lands in California, and they might lose their land, and then it would
                     be 'Paradise Lost.' W. W. Smith proposed that, inasmuch as the first
                     settlers were disciples of Christ, and one of them had died and was buried
                     on the land, that it be given a Bible name in his honor, and suggested
                     Antioch, and by united acclamation it was so christened."
                 
                 The foregoing articles dispose quite thoroughly with the very early history of Antioch. Just at this juncture a few words of explanation might not come amiss. It must be remembered that the articles quoted above were written a good many years ago, and changes have occurred which make some of the statements not quite accurate today. For instance, Captain Kimball speaks of those who built houses "east of where my house now stands." Captain Kimball's house stood at that time near where Scout's Hall now stands. In fact, the Griswold home, next door to the hall, is the Captain's old house remodeled and added to, and is therefore the oldest house in Antioch, and is said to be the oldest residence building in Contra Costa. The other buildings have all disappeared, other more modern structures having replaced them. They were located east by compass from the Captain's house, the last one standing not far from where the water-tank is now located. Again, Captain Kimball speaks of a ship's galley being moved to a lot where "the present brick school-house now stands." The brick school-house is no longer standing, but Mrs. A. B. Schott, Captain Kimball's daughter, informs me that it stood just about where the present grammar-school building is now located. Edgar Kimball still lives in Antioch, but is no longer the official milkman. With these exceptions, however, Captain Kimball's sketch corresponds quite closely to present-day conditions.
                  The residence referred to in Mr. Smith's article as standing on the present location of the Ledger office is the old frame building now standing just east of the Belshaw building, and is not the present location of the Ledger.  At the time Mr. Smith's article was written it stood on the present site of the Bank of Antioch building. The early settler mentioned in Mr. Smith's article who had died and was buried on the land was his brother, the Rev. Joseph H. Smith, and his earthly remains rested at that time in the old burying-ground, then located about where Mrs. Meyers now lives, on the corner of F and Tenth streets.
                 The Colonel J. D. Stevenson mentioned in Mr. Smith's sketch seems to have been a sort of early "Get-Rich-Quick Wallingford." He is described as a rather picturesque and romantic sort of grafter by Miss Pauline Jacobson in a series of articles dealing the early history of San Francisco, published last year in the San Francisco Bulletin. With Miss Jacobson's kind permission, I give a brief extract from her article, dealing with the smooth Colonel. The reader will note that Miss Jacobson is rather unjust in her estimate of the geographical location of New York of the Pacific; but this is undoubtedly caused by lack of accurate information as to its correct location. Excerpts from her article follow:
 
                      "The Colonel was now a 'land commissioner.' He was clad in closely
                buttoned frock coat and military fatigue cap, a fashion which clung to him
                till death. The Colonel could never quite live down his military past. And
                according to the account of Massett (a young adventurer of argonauts
                days), no modern method had anything over the colonel when it came to
                disposing of real estate in his 'New York of the Pacific,' which was some-
                where in the region of the mosquito-infected, malarial-ridden marshes of
                Sacramento. The dodge was for the forfeiture of the lot if a house was not
                erected in thirty days. Lumber was hardly to be had, and the houses pur-
                ported to be on the way by the Horn never came. The Colonel, upon finding
                that Massett had no definite object in coming to California, but was
                following his bent of drifting about, suggested that he come the next day
                to his office, in Montgomery Street, between Washington and Jackson.
                        "'You are just the young man for me,' said the Colonel. 'You, of
                course, understand drawing deeds, mortgages, etc.; in fact, the general
                routine of a lawyer's office. You've been in a good school, and I think we
                can get along very well together. I have just purchased a tract of land - am
                going to build a new city - a second New York, sir! I'll make you alcalde,
                sir! Notary public, sir! Mayor of the city, sir! Come and breakfast with me,
                sir, tomorrow.'
                        "'At what time, Colonel?' asked Massett.
                        "'At six o'clock, sir - always rise with the lark,' replied the Colonel.
                'There's nothing like getting up early, sir - business man, sir. Go to bed
                early - keep steady - don't drink, and your fortune's made in no time!'
                        "The next day, bright and early, Massett went to his office. The walls
                were adorned with large maps, most gorgeously got up....On the outside
                the people were informed that that was 'J. D. Stevenson's Land Office and
                Agency of Lots in New York of the Pacific."'
                       
                   Colonel Stevenson's dream of a second New York at this point has not yet been realized, though it is hardly too much to say that in a measure it may be yet, for Antioch and Pittsburg are now growing by leaps and bounds, and will ere long be manufacturing and shipping centers of no mean proportions. It is quite evident that the Colonel's first thought was to make money out of real-estate speculation, and it is hardly likely that the future greatness of his city in reality gave him any serious concern. It is also evident, however, in the light of present conditions, that he chose better than he knew. It is certain that if he could live again and see the scene of his activities of those early days, he would observe many things that would cause him the utmost astonishment. It must be remembered that he never saw a telephone, a phonograph, an electric car or motor, or an automobile. In fact, the railroad-trains of his day were few and far between, and, compared with the palatial systems with which we are all so familiar, were crude and clumsy affairs. The past sixty years have been years of tremendous progress, and the New York City of 1850 actually compared quite poorly in all save size with the Antioch and Pittsburg of 1917.
                    Of the original settlers of Antioch only two are living here today - Edgar H. Kimball and Mrs. Adelia B. Schott, son and daughter of Captain Kimball, who have many interesting reminiscences to relate of life in Antioch as it was in the days of the argonauts. Of the buildings which housed these original families, none are now standing intact, though one, the house now occupied by G. C. Griswold and family, next door to Scout's Hall, is composed for the most part of the material contained in the original residence of Captain Kimball, some of this material having been brought from Maine on the initial voyage of the Captain's good ship.
                   About the year 1859 coal was discovered in several places in the hills south of Antioch and formed the first substantial industry aside from farming and dairying of the inhabitants of this locality. This new industry resulted in the founding of the towns of Somersville, Nortonville, and Black Diamond (now Pittsburg), and added greatly to the importance and prosperity of Antioch. The Empire Coal Company was formed in 1876 by John C. Rouse and George Hawxhurst, and a railroad built, which passed out of Antioch toward the mines over what is now F (formerly Kimball) Street. The mine and railroad later passed into the hands of the Belshaw brothers. The mine has long since ceased operation and the railroad track has been taken up, though the building which served as the Antioch terminus of the road still stands on the corner of F and Fourth streets, and the grading, trestles, etc., still remain much as they were in these early days.
                   In 1863, a great excitement arose over the discovery of copper near Antioch. Smelting works were erected at Antioch, and from fifteen dollars to twenty-five dollars per ton was paid for ore, according to its richness. The bubble eventually burst, to the discomfiture of all concerned.
                   Petroleum was first bored for near Antioch in 1865, but oil in paying quantities could not be obtained.
                   So much for the early days of the town. Antioch was ideally located and grew, developed and prospered much as many other communities of that period, and in due time churches, fraternal societies and business enterprises were founded, many of which remain with us to the present. Mention of the principal ones will be made as we pass along.
                   The Antioch Ledger was first issued on March 10, 1870, and in all its forty-seven years never missed an issue. A copy of its first number has been framed and hangs over the desk of the present editor. It is five by eight inches in size, printed on one side only, and its sole news item is a report and editorial comment on women's suffrage meeting which had just been held in the town. This paper was founded by James W. E. Townsend and Harry Waite, and conducted by them jointly until August, 1870, when Townsend became the sole proprietor. Townsend was a prolific and versatile writer, and had the reputation of having established more newspapers than any other man in California. He was a man of strong personality and captivating manner, and a raconteur of rare ability. So numerous and so wonderful were the anecdotes with the sobriquet of "Lying Jim" Townsend. Paradoxical though it may sound, in some of the works of Bret Harte he is referred to as "Truthfull James." Whether this was satire or an indication of reformation on Townsend's part cannot be definitely stated now, but it is certain that many of the stories immortalized in the works of Bret Harte, Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), and other Western writers of that period actually originated in the fertile brain of Townsend, for he was an intimate friend and associate of these writers.
                   In December, 1870, J. P. Abbott succeeded Townsend as editor and proprietor of the Ledger, and during the eleven years it was conducted by this able journalist it was an important factor in State and county politics. After some years Abbott sold the paper to Charles F. Montgomery, who changed its politics from Republican to Democratic. He was also an able and aggressive writer and took an active part in political matters. Upon his death the management of the Ledger was taken up by his son, Curtis F. Montgomery, who remained in charge until April 1, 1905, when the paper was purchased by C. G. McDaniel, the present owner, who changed its politics back to Republican.
                    In both its news and editorial columns the Ledger has always been progressive but conservative, and has been an important factor in the development of Antioch and its vicinity, enjoying the friendship and respect of all, even  of those who may not altogether agree with its political policies.
                    Antioch's pioneer church, the First Congregational, celebrated its fiftieth anniversary in September, 1915, with elaborate exercises, reported in detail in the Ledger of subsequent date. It seems that a church had been founded prior to 1865 by a young man named Morgan, but was short-lived, and it was revived at this time and absorbed by this Congregational church, which has had a continuous existence from 1865 to the present. A Sunday-school, founded by Miss Adelia Kimball (Mrs. A. B. Schott), was later conducted by the Misses Drusilla Boobar and Annie Morrison (Mrs. Joseph Galloway) prior to the church organization. This school met in the town hall, which then stood about where the Kelley undertaking parlor is now located. The Congregational church, however, was the first permanent religious enterprise established in Antioch. Briefly, the details of its formation are as follows: On June 12, 1865, a meeting of those interested was held in the school-house for the purpose of forming a church. Captain G. W. Kimball acted as chairman and the Rev. J. H. Warren as secretary. A constitution was adopted which, with slight changes and amendments, is still in force after more than a half century. As nearly as can be determined the charter membership consisted of the following persons: Mrs. R. H. Aldon, Mr. and Mrs. F. C. Barrett, Mrs. M. H. Boothby, G. W. Brown, G. C. Carmen, Miss Ida Fuller, Isaac Hardy, G. W. Kimball, Mrs. J. C. O"Brien, Amos Walton, and S. S. Woodruff. The first permanent board of trustees consisted of Joseph Galloway, David Woodruff, G. W. Brown, Captain G. W. Kimball, and William Utter. From this parent organization have sprung the other Protestant denominations - first, the Advent Christian, later the Methodist Episcopal, and, last of all, the Church of Christ, Scientist. The Congregational society owns the beautiful church and grounds on the corner of Sixth and F streets, also the parsonage next door.
                   The Catholic church has been one of the most important religious institutions of Antioch for the past forty-five years, and the circumstances regarding its institution and development are briefly as follows: In 1872 the Rev. Father Vincent Vinzes, of Benicia, was called to the Empire Mine, then being operated about six miles south of Antioch, to attend one of the miners who had been seriously injured. Taking advantage of the occasion, Father Vinzes called the men of the Catholic faith together and celebrated mass in the home of John Mulhare, located a short distance southwest of Antioch, near where the high school now stands. Then for more than a year regular services were held at the Mulhare home. In 1873 the "old" church was built on the block between G and H streets, on Seventh, this land being donated by Captain George W. Kimball and a Spanish gentleman whose name could not be obtained by this writer. The building is still standing, and is used as a hall for lodge-meetings and other secular purposes. In 1875 Father Patrick Calahan came to Antioch and became the first resident priest, and in 1880 the rectory was built for his residence. Father Calahan died in 1902, and was succeeded by Father Antone Riley, and it was during his ministry, in 1905, that the beautiful new church was erected, on the church property adjoining the old structure. This building is of white sandstone brick, Romanesque in architecture, and is one of the most beautiful church buildings in Contra Costa County. The cost was over $25,000. Altogether the church property is valued at about $40,000, and the location is one of the most attractive in Antioch. Father Riley left Antioch, and was succeeded by Father J. G. Rourke, formerly of St. Dominic's Church, San Francisco, in 1912, and shortly afterward Father Rourke was joined by Father E. Lawrence, who came from Benicia to act as his assistant. These priests are still in charge, and are constantly improving the grounds and buildings, and under their able leadership the Holy Rosary Church of Antioch is growing and prospering.
                   The Advent Christian church was organized on September 25, 1877, by Mrs. M. J. Clark, an evangelist of that denomination, with a charter membership of more than thirty, most of whom were at the time members of the Congregational church. Prominent among these were John Schott, wife and daughter (Miss Louisa), T. N. Wills, H. F. Beede and wife, S. P. Joslin and wife, Isaac Hardy and wife, Dr. E. L. Wempler and wife. The evangelist, Mrs. Clarke, remained for some time and served the church in the capacity of pastor. The Rev. W. R. Young was the first resident pastor, and remained with the church until about 1900, when he removed to Oakland, to assume the editorship of The Messiah's Advocate. The adventist church owns its house of worship, located on the corner of Fourth and I streets.
                    The Methodist Episcopal church of Antioch was organized in September, 1899, the principal figures in the movement being Judge J. P. Abbott (now deceased) and Doctor W. S. George. The preliminary meeting, at which a temporary organization was effected, was called by Wesley Dunnigan, L. S. Lafferty, Isaac Lafferty, and Doctor W. S. George in the old Hamburg Hall, which then stood near the present site of the Santa Fe station. These men secured the services of the Rev. James Blackledge, who held regular services and assisted in perfecting the organization of the new church. The State Conference sent the Rev. Dr. Brill late in the fall, and he completed the details of organization, and the men whose names appear earlier in this paragraph were appointed the first board of trustees. Doctor Brill at once began a vigorous campaign to raise funds for the purchase of a building-site and the erection thereon of a house of worship. His efforts were successful, and the building now occupied by the church, located on the corner of Sixth and G streets, was erected in 1890. The church also owns the parsonage property on Sixth Street, next door to the church.
                    Early in the year 1910 six Christian Scientists began to read the lesson sermon at the residence of one of their number, and through the work accomplished by this little company the number gradually increased until in the fall of 1910 it became necessary to secure larger quarters, and Union Hall was rented for midweek and Sunday meetings. In July, 1911, a society was organized with a charter membership of fifteen, and in 1912, a church building-lot was purchased on the corner of Fifth and D streets. On March 12, 1915, the temporary chapel now occupied was begun on the rear of this lot, leaving room for main church building when such is needed. This chapel was completed and the first meeting held on April 4th following. The seating capacity is about one hundred. The continued growth both in regard to attendance and membership attests the permanence of Christian Science in Antioch and its vicinity.

FRATERNAL SOCIETIES

 
                   San Joaquin Lodge No. 151, of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows was  organized in Antioch on January 9, 1869, by District Deputy Grand Master G. P. Loucks. William Girvan was elected Noble Grand, M. S. Levy, Vice Grand; George Thyarks, secretary; Russell Eddy, treasurer. Fred Wilkening was the only one of the five charter members who did bit at once assume an official station. San Joaquin Lodge now has a membership of about 140, and jointly with the Masonic Lodge owns the lodge building on the corner of H and Second Streets. This lodge is one of the largest and most important in Contra Costa County. Antioch Encampment No. 114, I. O. O. F., consisting of members of  San Joaquin and Byron Lodges, was instituted October 9, 1908, with a charter membership of twenty-three. J. T. Belshaw was elected the first Chief Patriarch. This organization has grown and prospered, and is now one of the leading fraternal societies in the town. Mizpah Rebekah Lodge, I. O. O. F., was instituted June 28, 1888, with a mere handful of members, but has grown very rapidly, until it now outnumbers the older San Joaquin Lodge of Odd Fellows. Many of Antioch's younger set are active members, and Mizpah Lodge is one of the prominent social as well as fraternal societies of the city.
                   General Winn Parlor No. 32, Native Sons of the Golden West, was instituted July 26, 1884, being one of the oldest parlors. Every year since its organization it has held a grand masque ball, which has become one of the principal social events of the year, and for the last eight years this parlor has given an annual amateur theatrical performance, the entire proceeds being donated to the Homeless Children Fund. This parlor has the honor of having in its membership one of the Past Grand Presidents of the order, Hon. Chas. M. Belshaw, and many of the most prominent citizens of this section are included in its list of members.
                   Antioch Aerie No. 785, Fraternal Order of Eagles, was instituted September 1, 1904, with a charter membership of 105, and has enjoyed a remarkable growth, having at the present time more than 300 members - the largest of any order in the city. It is also said to have the strongest treasury of any organization of a fraternal or social nature in this section.
                   Antioch Lodge No. 1612, Loyal Order of Moose, was organized in February, 1915, with Doctor W. S. George as the first dictator. The lodge hold its meetings in the Foresters of America building, and maintains elegant club-rooms over the Bank of Antioch. The membership is large and growing.
                   Among the older fraternal societies that are well established and active in Antioch may be named the Foresters of America, the Improved Order of Red Men (Pocahontas Lodge), and the Young Men's Institute, a Catholic order; also, the U. P. E. C., U. P. P. E. C., I. D. E. S., and S. P. R. S. I., the last four named all being Portuguese orders. G. Azevedo, member of Antioch Council No. 51, U. P. E.  C., has just finished a term of one year as Supreme President of the order.
                   Of clubs by far the most important is the Antioch Woman's Club. Besides being a popular social organization, this club has accomplished much for the material advancement of Antioch. It was through its efforts that the town has its modern automatic fire-alarm system, and also the beautiful public library building on the corner of Sixth and F streets. Other important improvements have received substantial aid from the Woman's Club.
                    Among the business enterprises of Antioch with a continuous existence from their first establishment to the present day, the Antioch Lumber Company is without doubt the oldest. This industry was established in the year 1864 by the late Joseph Galloway and E. C. Boobar, who at that time owned a considerable portion of the town-site, as well as the water-front. The office and yards were located on the block on which the Arlington Hotel, Wall Shoe Store, etc., now stand, while the main steamboat wharf at the foot of H Street was utilized by the company for loading and unloading schooners, this being before the day of railroad transportation facilities. Joseph W. Galloway, son of the founder, acted as manager of the business until the death of his father in 1877, when he sold the business to William R. Forman, John C. Rouse, and Henry F. Beede, the latter having been in Mr. Galloway's employ as a clerk for some years. After a few years Forman sold his interest to J. P. Abbott, and in 1887 Rouse sold half of his interest to the Simpson Lumber Company. After operating several years as a co-partnership, Feb. 20, 1907, the Antioch Lumber Company was incorporated, and still exists as a corporate body. Upon the death of Captain Simpson, in 1914, the Simpson heirs disposed of their stock to H. F. Beede, Mrs. Abbott, and Collins Rouse, of Berkeley. Beede has been the efficient general manager of this concern for many years, and under his direction the business has prospered and grown far beyond the most sanguine expectations of its founders. Besides handling lumber and mill products on a very large scale, this firm deals in coal, oils, grain, feed, etc. Nor are its activities confined to this city or the immediate environs, but particularly of late years, extensive contracts have been secured from distant points, all of which has been handled in a manner mutually profitable and satisfactory to all the parties concerned and have reflected great credit upon the local firm. The Antioch Lumber Company now has its planing mill, yards, offices, wharves, and storerooms near the foot of Second Street.
                   The paper-making industry, while not the oldest, is today the most important in Antioch. The mill was first established in 1889, by M. D. Keeney and operated by him and his three sons, E. M., W. C., and C. W. Keeney, on its present site, for about ten years. Straw, manila wrapping, and tissue papers comprised the principal part of the output, though some other varieties were made to special order. The capacity of that time was from three to five tons a day, according to the weight of the grade being made. In 1900 the Brown Brothers - Peter and James - bought the mill from the Keeneys and brought a number of their employees and some machinery from Coralitos in Santa Cruz County, where they had been conducting a paper-mill, and in due time remodeled the buildings and enlarged and improved the plant, adding the manufacture of various varieties of cardboards and folding box-boards to their accomplishments. The industry was under this management until March, 1912, when the mills were acquired by the Parrafine Paint Co., of San Francisco,  and incorporated as the California Paper & Board Mills. On November 13, 1912, the entire plant was destroyed by fire, but the work of rebuilding was begun at once on a much larger and more elaborate scale than before, and early in the summer if 1913 work was resumed. Besides all the varieties of papers and boards manufactured by their predecessors, the new  company began the manufacture of "Amiwud," a wall board of unusual merit, which imitates grained hardwood with a fidelity which practically defies detection. This product has been extensively advertised, and is sold all over the United States and in many foreign countries. The normal day's output of this mill is more than ninety tons of finished product, and it is the largest and finest paper-making establishment west of the Mississippi River. On January 1, 1917, this factory changed from a twelve-hour to an eight-hour work-day, with no reduction in wages. It now employs in excess of 150 men, and the wages paid are the highest in the trade.

EARLY DAYS OF ANTIOCH

BY MRS. A. B. SCHOTT

 
                  It was in 1849 that William Smith and his brother Joseph pre-empted the land where Antioch now stands. More than a year before this Captain Kimball had formed a company among his poor neighbors along the coast of Maine to build for itself a ship in which to go to California. This ship, the "California Packet," arrived in San Francisco August, 1850. Smith went on board this ship and induced twenty or thirty of the passengers to come and settle here, offering them building-lots along the river, while they would farm the land toward the hills. They built five or six small houses in a row, extending nearly to the tules east of the town. Kimball's house, at the western end of the row, was built in the fall of 1851. Smith's house was larger than the others, and stood on the bluff overlooking the river.
                   Besides these dwelling-houses, was a very small ship's cabin, that occupied a position near the site of the present schoolhouse. This Captain Mitchell removed from his ship and gave to the town for a schoolhouse. In this Miss Martha Douglas was installed as teacher. She soon resigned and Smith turned the school over to me. I was twelve years old. The house was small and dark, while out of doors was big and bright, and we had fine recesses. We still have in our midst two survivors of that primitive school. They are Mrs. D. Parkison, of Oakland, and E. H. Kimball.
                   In the fall of 1851 the little settlement thought it time to know what to call itself, and a meeting was held to decide the matter. No one but Smith had any special choice, so he had little difficulty in persuading the people to adopt Antioch as the name, his reason for this choice being that "the disciples were called Christians first in Antioch."
                   Early in the settlement of the place there was an epidemic of cholera, resulting in several deaths, and chills and fever prevailed. Farming failed. There was plenty of hay, however, as the valley and foothills were covered with luxuriant wild oats, and the tule land produced on abundance of coarse grass. But this could not yield sufficient income for the year round. The discouraged little band scattered. Some took their houses with them. The others abandoned theirs, either entirely or temporarily, and in 1852 Antioch was literally a deserted village.
                   However, it did not remain long unoccupied. Smith and Kimball returned. McMaster came and built near the river front. Other families, at longer or shorter intervals, moved into the vicinity. There were no town limits, and the Hendersons, at the Arata place, the Thompsons, at Marsh Landing, Madam Fuller, at Oak Point, Wyatt and O'Brien, southwest of the paper-mill, Robert Fuller, at the ranch, Doctor Adams, at Oak Springs, and the Hustels, in the sand-hills, were our near neighbors. The arrival of each family made an epoch in our history, and we welcomed them gladly.
                   The leading industry was cattle-raising. Doctor Marsh had large herds of wild Spanish cattle, and those who wished could have the use of a limited number, and half the increase for breaking them. Had their milking qualities equaled the length of their horns and their athletic abilities, they would have been very valuable. However, what little milk they did give was very rich and they proved a fair investment to those who chose to avail themselves of Doctor Marsh's offer.
In those days the only public conveyance between Antioch and the outside world was the schooner "Enterprise," commanded by Captain Miller, with "Charley" as the crew, which made a weekly trip between here and San Francisco, carrying passengers and the mail and the various products of the farm and dairy, and bringing back from the city the numerous things needed by the community. My recollections of this craft are a mixture of gratitude and misery - gratitude for the means of transportation and for the invariable kindness of the captain and crew, and the misery of the trip - sometimes three days, and the inevitable seasickness. It gave me all the boat-riding I wanted for many years.
                   There were a number of children within walking distance, and we had several terms of school in one of the abandoned houses, at which I trust there was more work and less play than in the first school.
                   The social function was a monthly sewing-bee and lunch, which met "turn about" at the several neighbors, and sewed for the hostess, and exchanged news.
                   Smith often conducted a service on Sunday, and there was occasionally a traveling preacher.
                   California in its early settlement was much hampered by the Spanish grants, which roamed around devouring every fertile spot, and giving the settlers no rest for the soles of their feet. Antioch had its full share in this kind of trouble. Being between Marsh grant and Los Medanos the people were warned "off" first by one and then the other. Finally, after years of harassment and wearing litigation, it was taken by Los Medanos, and Galloway and Boobar bought the town.
                   Antioch has always been a town with a great future. Its advantages as a manufacturing center were early recognized, and more or less feasible enterprises have marked its entire history. More than forty years ago McMaster started brick-kilns, and several houses were built from the product. Potteries have been tried many times, with sufficient success to prove it could be done if properly managed. Hopes rose with the smelting works. A furnace and chimney seventy-five feet high were put up, and twenty or thirty more were to follow, if this was a success in reducing the copper ore brought from Copperopolis. The sequel is evident. There were no more chimneys, but the one stood many years - a monument to dead hope and a perennial subject for the inquisitive traveler.
                    The development of the coal mines in the hills south of town about 1860 was the occasion of Antioch's becoming a town in any real sense. It was made a shipping-point, and many teams and men were needed to handle the coal. This made blacksmiths and other mechanics necessary. Families came and stores followed. More children required better school facilities, and a wooden schoolhouse was built.
                    There was enough who wanted regular church services. A young man named Morgan preached very acceptable in the schoolhouse, and the Congregational church society was formed. So many people made sufficient travel and traffic for it to be worth the while of the Stockton boats to stop, and wharves were built. Meanwhile people had learned by slow degrees that the land in eastern Contra Costa was very productive, if properly worked. This kept Antioch still alive when the shipping of coal was diverted to other points.
                   These imperfect glimpses of the past show that, although our history has been marked all the way along by sufficient disappointment and failure to insure our keeping properly humble, yet the present condition of the town proves that while the growth has not been rapid, we have very noticeably advanced and are very comfortably expecting our great future.
                    There is no particular in which Antioch has changed more than in its facilities for travel. In a previous chapter allusion has been made to the difficulties of communication with the outside world. These were the inconveniences incident to the development of new countries. Public conveyances are not liable to exist where there is a very small public to accommodate.
                    The various plans to bridge over the lack of transportation were often amusing and sometimes disagreeable. Once, when the Stockton boat attempted to put a party ashore in a rowboat, they landed them by the high bank where the warehouses now are. The tide was so high that there was only a narrow strip of beach to stand on. Fortunately, there was a gentleman in the party, and by the help of his cane and the bushes growing on the bank he managed to reach the top. He went to the nearest house for help, and, finding no one at home, helped himself to their clothes-line, and lowering that to the others succeeded in hauling them to the top.
                    At another time a party of three started from San Francisco in a small sailboat quite early in the morning. For a wonder, the wind was low and they were still in sight of the city at sundown. By night the wind was rested and ready for action, and made things almost too lively for the little craft, but it kept on till Bay Point was reached, where it was tied up to wait for a change in the tide, to come with the morning. When morning came one of the party, seeing a wagon loaded with hay and headed east, begged the privilege of finishing the journey by land. A strong norther was blowing; the ride was very tedious and not at all luxurious; but toward night the wagon reached New York Landing, where an old couple took the wanderer in for the night. In the morning the small boat was on hand, and the journey was finished according to the original plan.
                    Soon after the development of the coal mines and the increase of the population the commerce of the town warranted the building of a wharf, and then the Stockton boats would stop. Then, as now, that brought all the travel in the night. Antioch felt proud when the "Parthenius" started to make daily trips from Antioch to San Francisco. She left here at six in the morning and returned in the evening, giving people several hours in the city, and was a great convenience. But when the Southern Pacific was put through the steam- boat was altogether too slow, and she soon ceased to make the trip. Now there are fifteen different ways of getting out of town every day, ten by railroad and five by boat, which is quite a contrast to once a week on a little schooner.

PIONEER SCHOOL OF ANTIOCH

 
                    The first attempt at a school in Antioch was held in a small cabin, which had been removed from an abandoned ship, belonging to Captain Mitchell, to a site near the present school building. The first permanent teacher was Adelia B. Kimball (now Mrs. A. B. Schott), a girl of 12 years, daughter of Captain G. W. Kimball. There were about half a dozen young children. She taught a few months at a time for several years.
                   The next building was a small one-room house, in the vicinity of E. Street. Afterward Joseph Galloway gave the present grammar-school site, and a small wooden building was erected. Next was a two-story brick house, supplemented, as population increased, by wooden class rooms, one north and the other south of the brick building. These rooms becoming inadequate, and the brick building of doubtful safety, the present grammar-school edifice was put up in 1890.
                    The second teacher was James Cruickshank, who taught a few terms. He was followed by Mrs. Woodruff, an exceptionally fine teacher. Afterward the school had for principals J. P. Abbott, Warren Abbott, and Miss Carpenter, which brings it to comparatively modern times.
                    In the early days we had no California State Series school books, but such books as the various families brought from the East. The furniture was anything that came handy - chairs brought from home, boxes for desks, anything one could reasonably use as a seat.

STREET IMPROVEMENT

 
                   Until a few years ago Antioch had a deserved reputation for having about the poorest streets of any town in the State; now it is known far and wide for having the best thoroughfares of any place of equal size in California, and it is believed that its streets are not excelled by any city of its class in the United States. In fact, it was not until 1908 that any permanent street improvement was undertaken. Then the greater portions of L, G, Second, Fourth, and Sixth streets were paved with the petrolithic process. These being the principal business and central residence streets, the improvement was of marked value; but the process of paving proved unsuited to this climate, and the pavements were soon worn out. It was about this time that compulsory laying of sidewalks was begun. The cost of the improvements at this period was slightly in excess of twenty-two thousand dollars, exclusive of sidewalks. In 1912 the matter of further street improvement was taken up under the provisions of the street improvement was taken up under the provisions of the street improvement act of 1911, and about forty blocks on Third, Fourth, F, H, and I streets were paved with one-course oil macadam. These streets, which were completed in 1913, have proved very satisfactory, and give promise of great durability. The cost of paving these streets was, in round numbers, seventy-two thousand dollars. In 1915-16 the streets previously paved by the petrolithic process were repaved with four-inch and five-inch concrete base, with Topeka top dressing of one and a half inches. Also, the majority of the streets which had not been previously improved were paved, either through legal proceedings or by private contract, so that some fifty-one blocks of the town are now paved with concrete, which is conceded to be the very best and most substantial paving to be secured. Besides these improvements, many blocks of good sidewalks, retaining walls, etc., was in excess of one hundred and eleven thousand dollars.  Altogether Antioch has expended since 1908 for street betterment close to a quarter of a million of dollars.

WATER AND SEWERAGE SYSTEMS

 
                   Antioch was one of the first towns of this section to adopt municipal ownership of its water supply, and has proven a splendid example of the practicability and desirability of publicly owned utilities. Prior to the year 1903 the water supply was furnished by a private company, of which the Hon. Charles M. Belshaw was the head. Owing to the rapid growth and development of the town, the securing of more adequate facilities was deemed desirable, and bond issues of twenty-two thousand dollars were voted for a water plant and eight thousand dollars for sewers. In 1904 installations were completed of a modern sewer and drainage system  and an up-to-date water system electrically operated.
                  In due time the water system became inadequate to meet the demands of the growing population, and additions were found necessary. Accordingly, in 1913 another bond issue of twenty-five thousand dollars was voted, and in 1914 larger mains were installed, a high-pressure filtration plant and an Alberger fire underwriters' centrifugal pump put in commission, and in 1916 an efficient chlorination plant was added, so that now the water supply is equal to any demand likely to arise for many years, and the quality is such that it passes the most severe tests of the State Board of Health for purity and wholesomeness. The average daily consumption is five hundred thousand gallons, and the average rate (flat-rate plan) is $1.25 a month.
                   Antioch has a two-thousand-dollar Gamewell automatic fire alarm system and an excellent volunteer department, with splendid equipment, including an auto chemical truck. Insurance rates are accordingly lower than in many of the larger cities.

LIGHTING SYSTEM

 
                   Until comparatively recent years Antioch's residences had to depend upon oil or acetylene for lighting, and such street lights as were installed were coal-oil lamps, which were far from satisfactory. On July 14, 1902, H. F. Beede secured from the board of trustees a franchise for an electric-light system, which, however, without any profit whatsoever to himself he turned over to L. A. Reniff early in 1903, who installed a dynamo (driven by a gasoline engine) in a building near the planing-mill. While this was some improvement over former conditions, the service was not perfect by any means, and before long the plant was closed down and current purchased from the Pacific Gas & Electric Company to supply the customers. In July, 1910, the franchise passed into the hands of the latter company, which now gives what is well-nigh perfect service and at a very reasonable rate. The streets are well lighted with lamps ranging in candle-power from 250 to 600. Current for operating motors is also supplied. In 1915 the Contra Costa Gas Company secured a franchise and extended its lines to this city, and now furnishes a very high grade of gas for both lighting and fuel purposes.

CELERY, ASPARAGUS, ETC.

 
                   Not least among Antioch's manifold industries and resources is the growing, packing, and shipping of celery, asparagus, and other fruits and vegetables. More asparagus is shipped from this place than from any other town in the world, and more celery than from any other point in the United States. About two thirds of the potatoes grown in the state are raised on the islands in the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers in the immediate vicinity of Antioch. The Santa Fe Refrigerator Despatch operates steamers that ply the rivers and collect green fruits and vegetables, bringing them to Antioch, where they are placed in iced cars and sent to Eastern markets. So important is Antioch as a shipping point for this company that its Pacific Coast manager, S. M. Fulton, resides here. Exact figures were not obtainable in time for this article, but the approximate volume of shipments of a few of these commodities is annually as follows: Celery, 1200 to 1500 carloads; asparagus, 250 carloads; almonds, 7 carloads; grapes, 70 carloads; apricots, 10 carloads; peaches, 8 carloads; dried fruits (apricots and peaches), 2 carloads; hay (wheat, barley and oats), 500 carloads; wheat, 10 carloads; barley, 8 carloads.
                   There are large pits of a fine quality of sand located just east of town, and hundreds of carloads and boatloads are shipped annually. Other miscellaneous products, such as potatoes, onions, beans, and various small fruits and berries, contribute many more carloads to the grand total. Altogether close to eight thousand carloads of varied products are shipped from Antioch every year.
                   Among other interesting items concerning Antioch are the following: It has the finest climate on earth; deep water-frontage where ocean-going vessels can  and do come; the largest paper mill west of the Mississippi; one of the best equipped high schools in the State; a municipally owned water system with plenty of filtered water; the best streets of any town of its size in the country; numerous river transportation lines; two transcontinental railroads; two electric-power lines; two banks with combined resources of nearly a million dollars; many modern stores with complete stocks, where goods are sold at prices so moderate that there is no temptation to shop in the city; a beautiful public library, and many modern business and residence buildings. Antioch has a population upward of twenty-five hundred, and is fifty miles from San Francisco, at the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.
                   This town is entering upon an era of unusual growth and development, and the prospects are that within a very few years it will be one of the most important interior towns in California. Since the completion of the new street improvements, building has taken on fresh impetus, and within the past year or two many handsome residences and new business buildings have been erected. A fine large brick garage (the third one in town) has just been completed, and the new telephone building will be ready for occupancy in a few weeks. Antioch is truly the "Metropolis of eastern Contra Costa."

 

Transcribed by Sally Kaleta

 

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