Humboldt County

History

History of Humboldt County California - Historic Record Co., Los Angeles, 1915

CHAPTER XIII.
Early Towns and Villages of Humboldt County.

        All old residents and writers on early Humboldt tell us that the population of the villages and settlements did not increase very fast during 1851 and 1852, for the reason that the speculative class of people went away from the towns about as fast as the plodding sons of industry came in.

        Arcata seems to have been the one exception to this statement, for all agree that its prosperity was quite marked during the time when other communities were suffering from inactivity. In the year 1851 business at Arcata was unusually brisk, the population increased quite rapidly, and the air of prosperity was everywhere in evidence.

        About this time strong, vigorous men—pioneers in the lumber business —began to be attracted to the advantages of Arcata and Humboldt county. The result was that the lumber business began to prosper as it had never prospered, and the nucleus of great fortunes was there and then laid. In spite of the fact that speculation was almost universal, a number of towns began to carry on their affairs along rational development lines. An old writer tells us that Union and Humboldt both opened trade to the mines, while Eureka began shipping piles and square timber. Thus, before the end of the year a large number of cargoes of these materials had been shipped to San Francisco from the waterways in the vicinity.

        Two other towns made strenuous efforts to build up a trade with the mining men, but in the case of Humboldt Point this effort was unsuccessful. Trains invariably left and went to Arcata whenever there was no inducement offered them to go to the former place, and in July, 1851, it is said that the last train left Humboldt Point for the mining region, and after that time Arcata enjoyed almost a monopoly.

        Bucksport, another important point at the time, has always been a place of interest in the history of the county. It was laid out in 1851, by pioneer David A. Buck, and it immediately took a position in the ranks of the rival towns of the bay.

        In 1854 the Masons erected a beautiful hall of two stories, with a school room on the first floor. Dr. Jonathan Clark built a handsome residence fronting directly on the bay there.

        At this time the four towns of the bay were Bucksport, Humboldt, Eureka and Union. The first three had one store each, while Union had several large and prosperous establishments of this character. Bucksport was made the port of entry and in 1856 contained a church, two hotels, a saw-mill, a store, and several private residences. Fort Hamilton was built on a bluff in the rear of the townsite, commanding a view of the entrance to the harbor.

        It should not be forgotten that early in the year 1850 it was the general impression that Trinity river emptied into the ocean and formed a bay at its mouth, and as the mines on the river were reported to be wonderfully rich it was reasonable to suppose that if anybody could find this bay and lay out a town on it he would make a fortune by selling lots. It was about this time that a speculative mania was at its meridian in California. so there was no lack of men who were ready to imperil their lives and risk their property on a voyage of discovery for the chance of becoming proprietors of a city and consequently Monte Cristos.

        In January, 1856, several vessels were fitted out in San Francisco for the purpose of exploring the coast and searching for the mouth of Trinity river as mentioned by Buhne, Howard and others, and as spoken of heretofore in this history. Humboldt bay and the mouth of Eel river were discovered soon afterwards and the party which discovered the latter thought it was the mouth of the Trinity. They therefore ran their vessels into the bay at its mouth and prospected for some distance in the hope of finding gold. These adventurers soon explored the country close to the bay, occupied Humboldt Point, and laid it out for a townsite in the year 1850.

        Union was settled soon thereafter and Eureka sprang into existence a little bit later. Each of the three places laid claim to a large tract of land for a site and before autumn's shades had begun to fall the entire margin of the bay was set forth as fit for city property and a large portion of it was actually surveyed into streets and blocks.

        Trinidad is another interesting place. It is said by the residents of Trinidad that it was the best port on the Pacific coast or at least, in the northern part, and they proceeded to make good the grounds of their claim.

        The location of Trinidad was considered very suitable even at that day for a harbor of refuge, because it is easy of access and open from the sea at all times.

Pilot Rock is more than three hundred feet across the base and is one hundred and twelve feet above high water. The whole length of the break­water would be about two thousand six hundred feet with an average depth from shore to rock of about seven to eight fathoms.

        It was therefore said by those who watched the heavy action of the sea for several years that it would have been a safe harbor in all kinds of storms. There were many arguments brought forward to show that Trinidad should be the metropolis of the county, and it is interesting at this late day to find that some of the arguments for the harbor of refuge are identical with those which were put forth in those far-away times.

        Hydesville, a small place in the southern part of the county, is much older than many people suppose. It sprang into existence in 1858 on a place which was known as Gooseberry or on the Van Duzen forks of Eel river. The town derived its name from a Mr. Hyde, who formerly owned the land on which it stands. Pine's Hotel was the first one built and the first general mercantile store in the place was built by Dr. M. Spencer, who conducted it for a number of years. In 1859 there was a wagon and carriage shop there, also a blacksmith, a saddler, a carpenter, a shoemaker, a livery stable, and one store kept by I. Manheim & Co. There was a school which was taught by W. H. Mills, and had thirty-four pupils. Cooper's mills were turning out twenty-five barrels of flour a day. They were located about three miles distant from Yager creek and propelled by water­power. The town once showed, as these facts indicate, much evidence that it might become something far more important than it is today. After the first few years of flurry and apparent success the town began to lapse into what it is now, a mere trading point.

        Rohnerville derived its name from Henry Rohner, who resided near there for many years. In 1859 only one store was kept there, conducted by Rohner & Feigenbaum, and a hotel was erected by Brower & Woodruff. Its population has increased lately and the chances are that it will be a very good town.

        Recurring to Arcata it should be said that it was formerly called Union. The name Arcata was given to it in March, 1860. The Times of March 21, 1860, says : "No name could be more appropriate for a village containing such a sociable and fun-loving people than that of Union. Some romantic people about there ran away with the idea that Arcata is a legitimate Digger word and means Union. This is not correct. It means a certain place in town where the Diggers were once in the habit of congregating, which in our language would be about the same as down there or over yonder. To some, Union may sound as euphonious as if called by any other name, but not so with us. Therefore other people may call it what they like, but we call it Union." Notwithstanding some opposition to the new name it easily stuck fast and became popular. Some of the old-timers insist that Arcata in Indian means a bright or sunny spot.

        In 1854 we find that Arcata had about fourteen stores carrying large stocks of goods, besides saddle and harness-makers, jewelers, gunsmiths, tin­smiths, and several blacksmith and wagon shops, all of which did an active and profitable business. It seems that the first active officers of Arcata were elected in April, 1856, under the order of county judge, incorporating the village. There were four towns on the bay in 1855—Humboldt, Bucksport, Eureka, and Union. The first three boasted of a store each, while the latter had seven large wholesale establishments, with harness-makers, saddlers, etc., as indicated.

        In 1856 Arcata was connected with the ship channel by a plank road and a rail track two miles in length, passing over the intervening marsh flat. At the end of the rail track were built a fine wharf and some warehouses. By 1856 Arcata had nine wholesale and retail stores, besides hotels, drug stores; tin, harness and gun shops ; churches, etc. The town, unlike many others, was laid out after the Spanish style, with a plaza, around which are the principal business houses. There were two private schools in 1856, one for girls kept by Miss Hart, and the other for "young lads and girls," kept by Miss Webb.

        Eureka was originally founded in mining times and received a large floating population. One year it experienced a setback in lumbering and other lines of business which made pretty hard times and decreased the population.

        Early in 1856 the county seat was moved to Eureka from Arcata and business revived very much the spring thereafter. Ever since that date its course has been steadily onward, until now it is a city approximating fifteen thousand population, with excellent chances ahead of it. The town was incorporated on April 18, 1856, and the first election of officers resulted in a satisfactory manner as follows : Trustees, James T. Ryan, C. F. Ricks, A. F. Rollins, J. M. Eddy, and George Graham. C. F. Ricks was president of the board, and J. M. Eddy was secretary.

        It is interesting to know that Eureka contained a large number of saw­mills, general stores, hotels, boarding houses, drug stores, fruit stores, shoe­maker shops, blacksmith shops, livery stables, saloons, wagon and carriage factories, butcher shops, etc., a few years after it was founded. The first church was a rude structure surrounded by logs, stumps, and brush, and it simply had the title of "the church." It was used as the place of public worship for all denominations. It was a hall for the Sons of Temperance, for singing schools, school house, public speaking and various gatherings. It was not very long before a number of other churches and halls were built, and this was soon followed by the establishing of other institutions and houses for conducting business and taking care of the social welfare in general.     The Humboldt County Bank, it is interesting to know, was established in 1873. In the same year John Vance built the city waterworks.

        Through many years of isolation and hope deferred Eurekans and Humboldters in general have been watching and waiting for the coming of the railroad which is to unite them with the world at large. Eureka has long been the largest city in the United States without a through railroad, but that condition is soon to pass away, as there is no doubt that the Northwestern Pacific will be in full operation in the year 1915. (This is written in April, 1914.) Not only is this an encouraging sign, but the county has contracted to buy $1,500,000 worth of State Highway bonds, and this alone will guarantee close connection with the world at large. It will open up a wonderful field for tourists from other parts of the state as well as from the east, and will make it easy for those who are producing agricultural and horticultural crops to reach tidewater and the markets of the world. In conjunction with these improvements the jetties will be completed, the bay will be dredged, and the ships of the world, coming. through the Panama Canal, will be able to reach the port of Eureka and give this virgin empire an outlet for its wonderful crops, its lumber, and all of those articles of use and beauty which the future is destined to bring forth from this rich country of varied resources.

        A writer on the subject has said that the completion of the railroad with terminal rates sure to accompany it, will make Humboldt bay the natural outlet of the vast territory of Northern California and Southern Oregon, also a shipping and manufacturing center of the first rank, for cheap sites, cheap power and cheap transportation, can not fail to attract manufacturers in largely increasing numbers.

        The trip from San Francisco to Eureka by overland automobile, stage, or otherwise has been declared the most fascinating trip in America by none other than the Rev. William E. Rader, of San Francisco, who has seen many of the great drives and roads of the Old as well as the New World. In speaking of the distance of one hundred and fifty odd miles, he says that the entire course leads with few exceptions through nature's unbroken fastnesses of forest and mountains. He adds that if one of the giant redwoods along this California path were set in Central Park, New York, or along the Thames in London it would attract more attention than the Metropolitan Museum or the Egyptian Obelisk. He adds : "A ride over this road in an automobile is a rare and exciting experience, disclosing picture after picture of natural magnificence, colored with nature's own brush, dipped in a magical combination of atmospheric effect of light and shade. Variety of landscape, majesty of outline in rock and mountain and vale, stretches of river and creek, unique geological formations, and a variety of wild flower, foliage, and tree life greet the eye at every turn, while now and then a deer crosses the path with a wondering, friendly look, as if it would recognize something akin to itself in the automobile without a rifle." He remarks that the air is like wine, the sky like that which bends over Venice and Florence. The people one meets on the way are of a class which stands for the best in the Far West, for they are men of brawn and brains who have found their way into these mountain wilds, the last of the pioneers—for beyond their habitation rolls Balboa's Pacific Sea. To the far westward lies the Old East—Far Cathay--and they are made one by virtue of the cables, the wireless, and because of the higher affinity of commerce and the brotherhood of the nations.

        No wonder, therefore, that the people of Humboldt county and of Eureka expect to attract large numbers of tourists when the highway is completed. If a minister of the Gospel noted as a writer tells the tourist that by trusting in the skill of the stage-driver and the providence of God he would reach his destination without serious troubles over this road of wonders it is well to take his advice. He says that if one would travel by rail and auto one leaves the train at Longvale and takes it again at McCann's. He says these metal threads are soon to be tied together when the tourist will substitute the train for the machine and all may enjoy scenic rides on the railway. Speaking of his second morning he says : "The next morning at seven o'clock we took the train again and in half an hour reached the end of the road at Longvale, where, in the depths of the forest we made the start in the stage for a ninety mile journey over high precipices and steep grades, around the sharpest turns, across sparkling trout streams, through groves of great trees, descending into the deep shadow of the giant redwoods, where we looked upon trees which stood before Christ was born. This road continued till we reached the Devil's Elbow six or seven hundred feet above Eel river at McCann's, where we descended upon a crooked road with breathless interest, if not fear—possibly the most thrilling and crooked road in all the world."

        Thus it will be seen, harking to the present from the olden time, that the hardships and conditions which the pioneers beheld have been swept away and forever. The future is destined to be much like that of other countries which cater to the tourist trade of the world.

        Like Switzerland, only ours is smaller, Humboldt county will give em­ployment to thousands of men and women as owners and employes connected with hotels and resorts close to nature's untrodden wilds. The old order changeth and the past is passing away.

Transcribed by Kathy Sedler.