Those who studied geography forty or fifty
years since, recollect how little was known of the "Great West," "Lewis and
Clarke's Expedition to the Rocky Mountains and Oregon," contained about all
that was known of the Pacific Coast; and hundreds of persons now living,
remember that that portion of the map now marked California and Arizona, was
occupied with a table of distances from Washington to our larger cities. The
Rocky Mountains were represented as a single range, running from the Isthmus
of Darien to the North Pole. More facts concerning the Pacific slope were
learned in the first fifty years after the discovery of the New World, than
in the following two hundred. The deserts of Arizona and the "Great Canon,"
shut off exploration and settlement from this direction, though rumors of a
country rich in gold, had circulation among the hordes that overrun Mexico
soon after its conquest by Cortez and his followers. On such rumors, was
founded the story of "Sergas" by Esplandin, the son of Amadis of Gaul, which
contained "the story of a country called California, very near to the
terrestrial paradise, which was peopled by black women without any men among
them, because they were accustomed to live after the manner of the Amazons.
They were of strong and hardened bodies, of ardent courage, and great force.
The island was the strongest in the world, from its steep and rocky cliffs.
Their arms were all of gold, and so were the caparisons of the wild
horses they rode."
At that time, the world was filled with
rumors of wonderful discoveries, by land and by sea. Some, like De Soto, set
off in quest of the "spring of eternal youth," which it was confidently
asserted was just on the other side of a certain range of mountains. It was
easier to believe in a land of gold, than in a spring of eternal youth. This
exciting book, written to satisfy the literary market of that age; was
universally read in Spain; and, it is highly probable, was partly the cause
for the expedition which afterwards, under the charge of Hernando Grijalva,
actually discovered "California very near to the Terrestrial Paradise;" so
that it is probable that a dreamy old romancer in Seville, Spain, suggested
the name of the country that was to upheave new continents in the commercial
world.
IMMENSE REGIONS GRANTED BY THE POPE.
Cortez had achieved the conquest of
Mexico with but a handful of men, in 1519; and nine years after returned to
Spain, laden with the spoils of an empire larger and richer, and, perhaps,
more civilized than Spain herself; also with accounts of countries still
richer and larger, to the north-west of Mexico. He was received with
distinguished honors by Charles V., and rewarded by many royal concessions,
among which were the right to one-twelfth of all the precious metals he
could find, and a perpetual vice-royalty for himself and heirs, over all the
countries he should discover. It must be remembered that the Pope, in
consideration of the dissemination of the "True Faith," had granted to the
Emperor of Spain all lands that his subjects might discover; so the title
seemed to be fee simple in Cortez, who, from being a piratical,
roving vagabond, bounded into royal honors.
EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT.
Returning to Mexico, he immediately set
about the expedition; but, delayed by the difficulty of building and fitting
out ships on the western coast, he did not get off until 1535. Having landed
on the lower peninsula of California, he found the country so barren and
uninviting, that he abandoned the expedition, and returned to Mexico in
1537. On his return, he heard of the De Soto expedition, which, like all the
other expeditions, had nearly, but not quite, reached the land where arms,
as well as trappings for horses, were made of pure gold. This led
to the fitting out of another expedition in 1542 under Jose R. Cabrillo, who
sailed northward as far as Cape Mendocino, which he named Cape Mendoza, in
honor of his friend, the Viceroy of Mexico. Keeping within sight of the
coast the greater part of the way, he discovered the Farallone Islands, also
some of the more southern groups; but, like his predecessor, failed to see
the future Golden Gate. In an English work printed in 1839, Mr.
James Alexander Forbes states that two out of three vessels, composing this
expedition, with some twenty men, were lost in the Gulf of California, in
consequence of a mutiny and a difficulty with the natives, near La Paz.
These expeditions were so unsatisfactory,
that Cortez resolved upon exploring the coast himself. Three vessels were
fitted out at Tehuantepec, he marching overland with a large body of
soldiers, slaves, settlers, and priests. Cortez explored the Gulf of
California, proved that California was not an island, but part of the main
land. For some time the Gulf of California was known as the Sea of Cortez.
It was also called the Red Sea (El Mar Rojo), from having a reddish color
from the wash of the Colorado River, which empties into the gulf at the
head. Cortez returned to Acapulco, but continued to employ others in the
explorations, which were confined mostly to lands in the vicinity of the
gulf. Several attempts were made to settle the land, but, as it was very
barren and poor, the colonies made little progress. The natives were
destitute of means and character, both sexes going nearly or quite naked.
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE'S OPERATIONS
Sir Francis Drake reached the Pacific
Ocean in 1578, through the Straits of Magellan, thirty-six years after
Cabrillo named the Cape of Mendocino, and, not having heard of the former
expeditions, took possession of the whole country in the name of Queen
Elizabeth. It has been claimed for him that he entered the Bay of San
Francisco; but the latitude in which he located it (37 deg., 59'5"), proves
it to have been some miles north, at a place now called Drake's Bay, though
most of the old geographics give the present sea port as "The Bay of Sir
Francis Drake." It is strange that, having much intercourse with the
natives, he should have failed to discover the great harbor which was in
sight from some of the surrounding hills. The real discovery of the Bay of
San Francisco, was made by Portala, in an overland expedition. What a
vision, when he stood on the top of some of the low ranges of mountains
surrounding, and saw the rich valleys reposing in a perpetual Indian Summer,
stretching to the northward sixty miles. Little did the Spaniard, or those
who came after him, suppose that the rivers flowing into the bay ran over
golden sands, or that the hills near the outlet would be covered by a city
larger than any of the cities of magnificent Spain.
It is now time to turn to the attempts to
explore the country in other ways.
EXPEDITION OVERLAND - MARVELOUS STORIES.
The ill success attending the expeditions
up the coast, induced explorations by land, especially as marvelous reports
of rich walled cities in the far north, occasionally reached the capital of
Mexico. In less than fifty years from the discovery of America, soldiers and
priests had explored the Colorado River for a considerable distance above
its mouth. The stories of a gigantic people, walled towns, and impassable
canons a mile or more in depth, were consigned to the same fate as the
stories of mermaids and other sea monsters. Cervantes in Spain, and Dean
Swift in England, had poured unsparing ridicule on the fabulous stories and
achievements of the age succeeding the discovery of America. Since the
exploring expeditions sent out by the United States, the accounts of the
great Colorado River have been overhauled and read with avidity, and what
was then deemed a pleasant after-dinner fiction of some bibulous priest, has
proved to be substantially correct, though the Mojaves, who, doubtless, are
the persons described as giants, do not quite come up to their ancestors of
three hundred and fifty years ago.
As early as 1540 the Viceroy of New
Spain, interested in the stories of a San Franciscan monk who had seen some
of the territory, sent out an expedition under the command of Vasquez de
Coronado. When they struck the river, a party of twenty- five was detached
and sent to the westward. They explored the river to the mouth, and from
this point was sent the expedition which eventually succeeded in discovering
the bay. Another of Coronado's captains, named Cardinas, reached the pueblos
of the Moquis, and from these towns made a visit, under Indian guides, to a
portion of the river some hundreds of miles above the exploration of
previous parties. The history states that after a march over a desert of
twenty-days, they came to a river, the banks of which were so high that they
seemed to be three or four leagues in the air. The most active of the party
attempted to descend, but came back in the evening, saying they had met with
difficulties which prevented them from reaching the bottom; that they had
accomplished one-third of the descent, and from that point the river looked
very large. They averred that some rocks, which appeared from above to be
the height of a man; were higher than the tower of the cathedral of Seville.
This is the earliest notice in any work of the celebrated canon of Colorado,
the most astonishing of all mountain gorges, and, which may, without doubt,
be reckoned the greatest wonder of the world.
EXPEDITION OF FATHER ESCALANTE
About one hundred years ago, Father
Escalante visited the region north of New Mexico, keeping along the
head-waters of the Colorado to Salt Lake, thence south-west to the Colorado
River at a point nearly opposite that reached by one of Coronado's captains
over two hundred years before. Their meager account of the great canon is
about all that is on record previous to the acquisition of Arizona by the
United States, though trappers and hunters sometimes related incredible
stories of a country where great rivers ran in canons so deep that daylight
never reached the bottom. As this river forms a part of the boundary of
California, and was, to a great extent, from its unapproachable character, a
barrier to the early settlement of this coast, thus perhaps preserving it
for its present occupants, and it has recently become a center of interest
on account of the mines in its vicinity, a somewhat extended account of this
remarkable, and, even now, little known wonder may be justifiable, and will
be incorporated into the work in a separate chapter.