San Bernardino
County History
An Illustrated History of Southern California - The Lewis Publishing Company, Chicago - 1890
GENERAL OUTLINE OF HISTORY
THE county of San Bernardino (Saint Bernard) is the largest in California, embracing an area of 23,476 square miles, or 15,024,640 acres. It has no coastage, being thirty miles from the Pacific ocean. It is 215 miles wide by 150 miles from north to south. In all this immense area there is embraced a vast deal of diversified scenery, mountains, and rich plains and valleys, with running streams of sparkling mountain water; a belt of timber three miles long by forty miles wide; the highest mountain peak in Southern California, Grey Back, 11,600 feet high, with his perpetual snow-cap; an enormously large and rich mineral region, and an immense territory of the richest agricultural lands in the universe. Comparatively speaking, the natural resources and advantages of this county have as yet hardly begun to be developed.
The original inhabitants of San Bernardino County were Indians, mostly the Cahuillas and Serranos.
In 1819 the gentiles of the rancheria Guachama, also called, by the Spaniards, San Bernardino, voluntarily asked for the introduction of agriculture and stock-raising upon their fertile territories, and some beginning was made. But it would appear from the reports on the missions that no station was established here, nor any buildings erected prior to 1822, although the padres regarded these advances of the Indians as an important step in the direction of subduing the tribes of the Colorado river.
Ultimately the mission of San Bernardino was established at the place now called " Old San Bernardino," or " Cottonwood Row," as a branch of the mission of San Gabriel. The place selected for the necessary buildings was in the southern portion of the valley, on the last of the slopes by which the foothills descend to the plains. The surrounding lands were unexcelled in fertility. Here was constructed, with the aid of the natives, who here as elsewhere lent their labor, an adobe building some 240 x 80 feet of ground space, with walls a yard thick, with floors of kiln-burnt brick, and roofs thatched with tules. So substantial was this structure that, after years of disuse and abandonment, it was still habitable, and was tenanted for years by later settlers, and the lower portions of its walls are still utilized as enclosures for domestic animals.
Probably there was no other mission or dependency of the missions of which so little survives in the way of records as of this at San Bernardino. Almost nothing in the way of detail exists to commemorate the events of the brief period of Franciscan rule in that fair valley.
It is known that the native tribes proved restive under the control of the padres, and in 1832 they revolted, and destroyed the mission buildings. But others were then constructed, stronger and better adapted for defensive purposes, the ruins of which are still to be seen.
In this decade the mission was abandoned, in consequence of the edict of secularization.
The great agricultural possibilities of this district received practically no attention at this period. Here, as elsewhere at the mission establishments, fruits and vegetables were cultivated in small quantities, for supplies for home consumption; but the revenues of these establishments were derived from the produce of live-stock, hides and tallow.
It is said that in San Bernardino valley there were killed in 1830 no less than 4,000 cattle, whose hides and tallow were conveyed to San Gabriel Mission for the purposes of trade.
PASTORAL.
Secularization, that practically razed the missions, was closely followed in San Bernardino by an epoch of more speedy and more extensive advancement, in the opening of the section to general development. This period began with the division of the country into large ranchos, under the governorship of Juan B. Alvarado, who very practically made to such as would agree to occupy and settle their possessions in so remote and Indian-infested a district, the large grants of land necessary for the raising of horses and cattle, then regarded as the only available industry.
The first of these grants in point of time was that of the Jurupa Rancho, lying along the Santa Ana river, in the southwestern part of San Bernardino valley. The extent of this grant is variously stated at from seven to eleven leagues, and its date at either September 28, 1838, or May 22, 1840; the earlier is probably the correct date. " Jurupa" is said to have been the first greeting of the old Indian chieftain to the Roman Catholic priest who first appeared thereabouts, this word being said to mean, in the native dialect, " Peace and Friendship;" and "Jurupa" the place was called in memory of that kindly greeting.
Juan A. Bandini took possession of his grant, and stocked it with cattle and horses. But the Indians proved very troublesome, and preyed upon his stock. Therefore, about 1843 he induced about twenty families from New Mexico to settle on the northern end of his property, and guard it against the incursions of the Indians, in consideration of receiving land on which to build and till the soil. Many of these families, among them the Trojillas, Moyas, Garcias, Alvarados and others, are still represented at Spanish Town and Agua Mansa. This was the first settlement in the county. These settlers were presently joined by other colonists, among them the German, Louis Shover, from whom was named the limestone ridge called Slover mountain. From the smooth flow of the Santa Ana and its tributary streams hereabouts, this settlement was called "Agua Mansa," literally Gentle Water, idiomatically Still Water.
Don Juan Bandini sold a portion of the Jurupa Rancho to Benito D. Wilson, May 6, 1843. This lot, comprising one league and a half of land, cost Wilson $1,000. The following year he conveyed it to Captain James Johnson and Colonel Isaac Williams, and they, in 1847, sold it to Louis Rubideaux, it having been known since as the Rubideaux rancho. Rubideaux was a Frenchman, who came to California by way of New Mexico, whither, after his purchase of property, he returned, bringing back to his rancho his family, a large stock of goods, and about $30,000 in cash. During the war with Mexico, he sided stanchly with the United States, and was made prisoner and jailed with Americans in Los Angeles. When the war was over, Rubideaux devoted himself to improving his rancho, building walls and dwellings, and planting orchards and vineyards. Before the floods of 1861–'62, he had under fence, 15,000 acres. He died September 23, 1868.
In 1842, Alvarado, as Governor of California, granted to Jose Maria Lugo, José del Carmen Lugo, Vicente Lugo, and Diego Sepulveda, the Rancho de San Bernandino, which gave its name to the county. The same year, Manuel Dominguez, First Judge of the Peace in the District of Los Angeles, formally installed these parties in possession of the rancho. This grant lay in the central part of the valley, and it was thus the best watered portion. The grant contained some nine square leagues, or 37,700 acres. Its boundaries were: on the east, the "Sierra del Yucaipa;" on the west, the Arroyo del Cajon; on the south, the "Lomerias," and on the north, the " Faldos de la Sierra" (skirts of the Sierra).
The Rancho Muscupiabe seems to have been granted in April, 1843, to Michael White, by Manuel Micheltorena, then Governor General Comandante and Inspector of both Californias. In 1845 was granted Santa Ana del Chino, and an addition to that grant, as well as those of San Jacinto, Sierra and San Gorgonio, were made up to1846.
John Brown, Jr., acting as court interpreter, supplied the following bit of early history to the San Bernardino Times, of January 22, 1876:
"For some days past the District Court has been engaged in hearing the case of Craig, Cave et al. vs. Craft et al., involving the right to use the water of Old San Bernardino. A number of early pioneers were heard in the case. Among them were Daniel Sexton, whose testimony dates as far back as 1842; James W. Waters dates back as far as 1844; S. P. Waite to 1849, and others of later times. Byron Waters, attorney for the plaintiffs, has succeeded in finding a still older witness, Don Francisco Alvarado, who settled in the old adobe building near Mr. Waters' new residence at Old San Bernardino, in 1826, fifty years ago.
"Francisco Alvarado was duly sworn, and testified in substance as follows: My name is Francisco Alvarado. I live near Cornelius Jasen's residence in Jurupa, San Bernardino County. I was born in Los Angeles city, January 19, 1816, and am thus nearly sixty years of age. When I was a boy not over ten years old, my father moved from Los Angeles to the large adobe that was situated just east of the spot where Mr. Waters has recently built a residence, at Old San Bernardino. This was about the year 1826.
"This large adobe building was occupied by the Major-domo who was in charge of the Indians, and the east end of it served as a granary for the vast quantity of wheat raised by the Indians. This building was not used as a church for the mission, as some say, but was used, as I have said, by the Major-domo.
'These Indians were the Serranos and Cahuillas, and they numbered about 500. They lived south of the old building a few hundred yards, and cultivated the soil north and east. My father was appointed Major-domo, and they referred all their disputes to him; they had no chief then.
'The zanja of Old San Bernardino furnished water for these lands; it was made so as to provide water for cultivation. The zanja used to break very often; during high water it always broke, and the Indians would go up and repair it. I remember going up with little Indians, wading in the ditch, and hunting rabbits with our bows and arrows. I was not over ten years old. I grew up to manhood here around Old San Bernardino.
'The whole country was covered over with cattle as dense as sheep. At the base of the mountains there were many bears; we used to lasso them; we had fine horses. A number of years afterwards a man named Manuel came from Mexico, and began constructing, on the hill near Dr. Barton's, the second house of adobe in this part of the country. Before completing it the Indian war between the Serranos and Cahuillas broke out, Manuel became frightened, left the country, and did not complete the building. In 1842 the rancho was granted to the Lugos, and they finished the building and lived in it. The roofs of this building fell in, the mortar and tar being poor, but the north roof was made good with clapboard.
When the Lugos came in 1842, houses of adobe were built; one near where Mr. Conn now lives, another on the banks of the Santa Ana river, about four miles southwest of the present town of San Bernardino, and another at San Salvador; also the church about this time. The ruins of these buildings can hardly be seen. There was another adobe erected in Yucaipa, on the hill near Mr. Standifer's. These were the first houses in this valley. The long adobe for the Major-domo was the first one. Mr. Waters has leveled the old walls, so that I can hardly tell this used to be my old home fifty years ago. The old cottonwood trees are being cut down by where the old zanja ran. When I first saw the zanja, the older trees above Dr. Barton's were large.'"
Progress in the settlement of San Bernardino was very slow during this the second period of its history, which may fairly be called that of Mexican occupation, extending from 1831 to 1851. Stock-raising, the only industry which the residents considered worthy of them, was not calculated to further the rapid development of the country, and agriculture, while it was indeed advancing to some slight extent, was as yet conducted on a very small scale. The Lugos did cultivate some twenty acres on the Rancho San Bernardino, and the settlers at Agua Mansa raised grain, fruits and vegetables enough for their own needs. But no one so much as dreamed of the production of these elements for profit.
The only settlers of Anglo-Saxon blood in San Bernardino County, up to 1851, were the few who had intermarried with the Mexicans, and who were scattered far apart, occupying some of the large ranchos.
In February, 1850, David Seeley, one of the oldest citizens, arrived and camped on the San Bernardino rancho. He had come in 1847 to Salt Lake, whence, two years later, he came to California. The only dwelling-house on the rancho at that time was at Jumor, where Jose Maria Lugo lived; there was an old adobe building on the lot now owned by Mrs. Wozencraft, but it had not been used as a dwelling for some years past. The Lugos had about twenty acres in cultivation at the Jumor, and the rest of their land they used as a cattle range, estimating that they had some 8,000 head of horses and cattle.
INDIAN DEPREDATIONS.
Early in 1851 a party of Utes from Salt Lake made a raid into the southern country, and stole a number of horses, including 130 which were the property of one of the Lugos, owners of the San Bernardino Rancho. The Indians were pursued by some twenty Californians, and one of this party was killed during a volley of rifle-balls fired by the marauders from an ambuscade on the Mohave. The Californians, returning through the Cajon Pass to camp at its mouth, passed some men with a wagon, encamped on the farther side of the pass. The next morning, when the rest of the party proceeded on to the rancho, four remained behind, including two sons of that Lugo whose stock had been stolen. The next parties traversing the pass found the wagon and team of the campers, with its two owners murdered. Suspicion fell on the four Californians who had remained behind, and when they were arrested, one of them confessed that they had returned and murdered the two men to avenge the death of their comrade, resultant, they believed, from their movements based on false information given by the campers regarding the course of the Indians. The man who confessed was admitted as State's evidence, and the other three were jailed, charged with murder.
In April, 1852, there came to Los Angeles from the north one Irving, leading a band of some thirty men, heavily armed, who professed to be on the way to prospect in the section now called Arizona. They were mostly of the ex-convict class, and their misbehavior was outrageous. After remaining in Los Angeles about a month, Irving proposed to Don Antonio Maria Lugo, grandfather of the Lugos then in prison, that he and his band would, for a consideration of $5,000, deliver the young men from jail and take them safely to Mexico. Lugo replied that he would be guided by the advice of J. Lancaster Brent (a prominent attorney of Los Angeles
from 1851 to 1861) who had been retained to defend the young men. Brent naturally condemned the undertaking. Before the day of the trial the witnesses for the people were sent to Sonora, where were taken their affidavits, in which they swore to facts establishing for the accused an alibi. Upon these affidavits, application was made to the district judge for the release of the prisoners on bail. Irving swore that if the judge should admit the Lugos to bail, Irving and his band would take them to the court-house and hang them. The day before the hearing of the case, a company of United States dragoon sencamped on the bank of the Los Angeles river, and the sheriff applied to the commanding officer of this detachment for assistance in protecting the court. The officer promised his support. When court opened the following day the prisoners were present with their bondsmen, and along one side of the room were ranged Irving's men, all heavily armed. Presently marched in a party of dragoons, with carbines ready for action, who placed themselves facing the Irving party. The bonds were approved and signed, and the the judge ordered that the prisoners be released on bail. The dragoons escorted them out of the town in safety. Irving vowed vengeance on the Lugos and the lawyer who had, as he considered, prevented him from getting $5,000. About the last of May, he left Los Angeles on the road to Sonora, in company with another party of strangers, recently arrived, heavily armed, but apparently honest prospectors, bound for Arizona. Directly after these adventurers left the town, it transpired that Irving's plan was to go to Mexico, capture a silver train on the road from Chihuahua to Mazatlan and with the plunder thereof make his way across the country to Texas. He also purposed to go to the Rancho San Bernardino, on his way to Mexico, drive off Lugo's saddle horses, and seize the young Lugos, to hold them to ransom in the sum of $10,000. His men proved refractory on this plan, only sixteen of them agreeing to accompany him, while the rest went on with the other party. As soon as this project became known in Los Angeles, a messenger was despatched to warn the Lugos. On May 30, Irving, with eleven others started from the Laguna Rancho, across the plains towards San Bernardino, expecting to reach the rancho by nightfall, and thence proceed to Warner's by way of San Jacinto. He was not acquainted with the country, so that day only succeeded in reaching the Jurupa, eight miles from the San Bernardino. Before the start, the next morning, Rubidoux, of the Jurupa, had sent a messenger to warn the Lugos. Thus Irving's party, when they arrived at the house, found that the family and the servants had departed, while the horses were on the way toward the rodeo ground, where there were some thirty vaqueros employed in branding cattle. Some time before this, a company of rangers, commanded by Lieutenant J. A. Bean, had been raised on the warrant of an act of the Legislature, for the defense of the frontier against Indian depredations. They made their headquarters on Lugo's rancho at San Bernardino, but it happened that they had gone on a scout that day to the Mohave. Jose del Carmen Lugo was in charge of the rancho. He sent one vaquero riding post haste to inform Bean of Irving's arrival, and another to Juan Antonio, chief of the Cahuilla Indians, bidding him raise all the Indians in the valley, and follow Irving's party until overtaken by the rangers. Irving went from the first ranch-house to old San Bernardino, where his party broke open and looted the dwelling. When they saw the Indians approaching, they mounted, and proceeded toward San Jacinto, but were soon overtaken by the Indians, under one of Lugo's vaqueros, named Uribes.
Irving, who had been a cavalryman in the Mexican war, had his men drilled like dragoons, and as the Indians came up, his company wheeled, formed in line, and charged in regular cavalry form, firing their pistols as they came. The Indians replied with a volley of arrows, having no other weapons. This skirmishing continued all day, as fresh bands of Indians presented themselves before Irving's men, no matter which way they turned. No one was hurt, from either party, until late in the afternoon, when the Indians charged and came to close quarters, and a brother of the chief was mortally wounded by Irving. Finally the Irving party took a wood road, leading back toward the Laguna Rancho, but terminating in a narrow ravine filled with underbrush, and quite impassable for horses, it being on the west side of Timoteo valley. Here the Indians, to the number of about 100, surrounded Irving's party, and shot down 11 of them, one while concealing himself under a bush until nightfall, when he escaped to the Laguna Rancho. A member of the Sepulveda family (joint owner with Lugo in Rancho San Bernardino), saw this man, Evans by name, in hiding in the bush, but felt compassion toward the solitary survivor, and so rode on, and allowed him to escape, pretending not to see him. This fugitive took a mule he found hitched at the first house on the San Bernardino Rancho, which belonged to the posse of the Los Angeles sheriff, who had just arrived there in pursuit of the marauders, and, mounting this mule, he overtook the rest of the party who had remained on the Laguna Rancho, they having moved on to San Felipe.
The officials proceeded to San Bernardino to investigate the affairs and hold an inquest. The testimony given before Coroner A. P. Hodges, and County Attorney Benjamin Hayes, resulted in a verdict that Edward Irving and ten other white men, names unknown, came to their deaths at the hands of the Cahuilla Indians, and that the killing was justifiable. The Indians had divided among themselves the spoil of the dead men; but, out of the twelve horses and saddles, nine were proved away by their rightful owners, from whom Irving and his party had stolen them.
In September of that year, Evans, the survivor of the party, returned to Los Angeles, and called on the editor of the Weekly Star, and gave an account of the whole affair, which was published at the time. He said that the party went to the San Bernardino Rancho, designing to drive off Lugo's horses, and they were pursued as above stated. He said that soon after entering the ravine where his companions were killed, he slipped off his horse and crept away among the bushes; he watched Sepulveda as the latter rode toward his hiding place, and had his pistol cocked ready to shoot the Mexican down on the least sign of discovery; but Sepulveda rode on and thus both lives were saved.
A FIGHT WITH INDIANS.
By Stewart M. Wall, Esq., of San Bernardino.
In March, 1864, Mr. Binkley and myself, with two pack horses, started for the Arizona gold mines, crossing the Colorado desert and reaching the river, a distance of some 200 miles, in nine days. Hearing of the Indian outbreak in the territory, we decided it best to remain at Bradshaw's Ferry, near La Paz, for a time, until we thought it safe to venture farther, to work the placer claim located by Bradshaw and Binkley in 1863, some forty miles east of Walnut Grove, and which was then considered, as it afterward proved to be, a very rich mine. While stopping at Bradshaw's Ferry, some three weeks, we enjoyed ourselves by hunting deer, fishing and prospecting. Finding three gentlemen who wished to join us, we started for Bradshaw's Cañon, traveling up the Colorado river sixty or seventy miles, then leaving the river we went up William's Fork to Weaver's placer mines, and from there to People's valley and over to Walnut Grove. We remained at White's and Bradshaw's ranch for some time, waiting for the Indians to quiet down, and finding our provisions getting short, failing to secure an escort, and being anxious to reach the mines, five of us—Fred Henry, Samuel Herron, Mr. Binkley, Scott and myself—with three pack animals, ventured to start. As we had been several times over the same trail we proposed to travel for a distance of twenty miles while out hunting, and had seen no signs of Indians, we thought we could possibly reach the mines without any trouble. We had made a practice of guarding our animals day and night up to this time, but the first and second nights out we omitted this precaution. Reaching our camp, near Turkey creek, about thirty miles southeast from Prescott, and twenty miles east of Walnut Grove, about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, the second day, Mr. Herron and myself made a circuit of our camp to ascertain if there were any fresh signs of Indians having passed along the trail, and found none; so we ate our supper and retired. Our animals exhibited some uneasiness about nine o'clock, but we paid little attention to it. We all slept soundly until about an hour before daylight, when we were suddenly awakened by the Indian war-whoop and a shower of arrows falling on our beds. All our party arose and seized their arms. Mr. Binkley being the first, served as a target for the savages, and was disabled by their first fire, receiving a half-ounce ball through his left breast, an arrow wound in his left eye and another in his tongue. He was able, however, to retreat a short distance to the rear. By this time I had made one shot, and had received an arrow in my breast. A few moments later Mr. Herron and Mr. Scott were each wounded several times, and about sunrise were compelled to retreat on account of their wounds. One arrow cut the main artery of Mr. Herron's arm, causing severe loss of blood; another penetrated his stomach, which caused his death four days later by tetanus (lock-jaw). Mr. Scott received a rifle ball in his right elbow. Mr. Henry was also severely wounded, but he and I held the camp until about nine o'clock, when the conflict grew so hot that I suggested a retreat. Mr. Henry thought we had better "stay with them" a while longer, and I remained a short time, receiving one wound after another until I had fourteen wounds in all. I then told Mr. Henry good-bye and made my way up the hill as fast as I could go some fifty yards, where I found Binkley, Scott and Herron in a horrible condition and covered with blood. A few moments later Mr. Henry came running up to where we were, receiving one more wound on the way up. The savages had killed two of our horses, and mine was severely wounded. A hasty consultation was held, and as Mr. Binkley and Mr. Henry were able to travel on foot, the rest of us requested them to leave us and make their way to Walnut Grove, which they, after much urging, consented to do, and started off through the brush, avoiding the trail. The Indians watched the trail hoping to cut them off, but failed. When the Indians found they were foiled in this, they returned to the rest of their party, who were standing guard over us, and who were so close as to throw stones at us. We were at this time about a hundred yards from our camp under a clump of small oak trees Here we were again attacked, the fight lasting about an hour and a half, and I received three wounds and Scott two. Our last two shots did good work, and our assailants left us, and took possession of our camp. They built sixteen different fires, and in plain sight of us butchered two of our horses and had a feast, eating all of our provisions except what they packed away on my horse, Old Joe. The number of Indians were variously estimated by our party at from 200 to 300, composed of parts of four or five different tribes, including Apaches and Mojaves. After the Indians left the camp, we remained at the last battle-ground until dark, though we suffered greatly for water, but were afraid to go to the spring, which was only twenty-five yards from our camp, and was all the time held by the Indians, and we feared they were waiting in ambush to entrap us at that point. We moved under cover of the darkness a little farther up the hill and camped under a large juniper tree, under which was a great many dry leaves that we utilized as a covering. We covered Mr. Herron up with the leaves and Scott and I guarded till daylight. With much difficulty (on account of the soreness of our wounds) we then reached the spring, and after slaking our thirst crawled down the ravine and hid among some willow brush, where we remained until three o'clock in the afternoon, when to our great surprise and delight we heard the sound of horse's feet approaching down the trail from the direction of Walnut Grove. It proved to be a party of fifteen men headed by Jack Swilling coming to rescue us. Messrs. Binkley and Henry had reached Walnut Grove in safety and sent us aid. The kindness shown us by those men is beyond description. Mr. Binkley, my brother-in-law, lost an eye, and he is the only one of our party that has had the satisfaction of retaliating, for he was one of the party who, at Schull valley, Arizona, were attacked by a band of Indians, of whom they killed over sixty. Mr. Swilling and party examined the battle-ground and found about seventy-five yards east of our camp some fifty oak clubs, which, no doubt, the savages expected to use on us in case we had retreated in that direction. The bones of some twenty-six Indians were afterward found, covered with brush near the battle-ground.
RUFFIANS.
Among the notorious characters who contributed to the disorder in this section in the early days, were Bill Marshall and Juan Verdugo. It is said that Bill Marshall was from Providence, Rhode Island, and that he came to this country in 1844, in a whale-ship, from which he deserted. He married a daughter of an Indian chieftain, and was instrumental in binding the tribes together for hostilities against the whites.
The trial of these men took place by court-martial, at " Oldtown," San Diego, in December, 1851. They were convicted of inciting the Indians to an outbreak, to burning the town of Agua Caliente, and to destroying the rancho of Hon. J. J. Warner, and committing murders and outrages upon the whites. These men were executed at 2 o'clock P. M., December 11, 1851, on a scaffold erected near the Catholic burying-ground. Verdugo acknowledged his guilt, but Marshall protested his innocence.
In the latter part of December, 1851, Major Heintzleman ordered a "council of war," for the trial of Francisco Mocate, chief of the Ysidro; Luis, Alcalde of Caliente; Jacobo or Onisil, and Juan Bautista. The council, after a patient hearing, adjudged them guilty, and sentenced them to be shot on the morning of Christmas day, and the sentence was duly carried into effect.
On January 11, 1852, was executed by sentence of military court-martial, Antonia Garra, an educated and talented Indian chieftain, convicted of theft and murder at the insurrection of Agua Caliente. These executions did much to reduce the lawlessness and disordered conditions proceeding from Indian depredations in San Bernardino County.
MORMONS.
In the year 1851 began the third period or chapter in the history of the section—that of Mormon occupation. Brigham Young, the head of the Mormon church, desired the establishment of a colony on the Pacific coast, as an outfitting post for the church, and as a pacific port where European converts might be landed, instead of disembarking them at New York harbor, to travel overland across the continent. The journey overland to Salt Lake could be shortened two-thirds in this way. It is said that the great Mormon leader favored the purchase of the Chino Rancho, but the leaders of the expedition were of a different opinion.
Leaving Salt Lake on March 14, 1851, the Mormon band on June 11, 1851, reached the Cajon Pass, the first fifty wagons, he having returned to Salt Lake after some time spent in the mines of El Dorado. There were 800 or 900 Mormons arrived within a few days after the first installment. The Mormons were not idle while in camp at the Cajon Pass, but they busied themselves in repairing the wear and tear of the journey, and in preparation for the labors of the future. They also had schools for the children in session while there. Most of these immigrants had come with ox teams. They had on arrival some $700 altogether, which was reserved for the purchase of food.
In September, 1851, they bought from the Lugo family the Rancho de San Bernardino, agreeing to pay therefor $77,500, the sale being made on credit.
The surviving Mormon pioneers declare that, by the terms of purchase, they acquired twenty-seven leagues of land, but that the laws were so construed as to restrict them to eight leagues, which they were feign to accept, rather than contest the case with the odds against them; and this the more readily, that they were allowed to choose their own portion, thus obtaining, as they say, "the very cream of the cocoanut," when the lands were surveyed, and the eight leagues confirmed to them. Their contract with the Lugos included seventy-five cattle for food purposes, the Mormons having only their draught cattle. The remainder of the great herds of the Lagos was removed by the following spring.
The sale was made on credit, the Mormons relying on their ability to secure the purchase money by the proceeds of their prospective grain crops. It is usually stated that the proceeds of the grain raised by each family was turned over to Rich & Lyman as a payment fund for the land at large; but the surviving pioneers state that each man was credited with the amount he turned in, as purchase money on the tract he should select as his own individual holding, after the survey.
Soon after the Mormons took possession of their purchase, an Indian war was threatened, and they hastened to build a fort for protection and defense, moving from the quarter now known as "High Lands," down to the edge of the bluff or bench overlooking the low ground. The limits of the fort were about as follows: the western boundary at about D street, the southern, at Third street, the eastern side about B street, and the northern near Fourth street, where the old school-house now stands.
The log houses of the settlers followed these lines, and the gaps between the houses were filled in with stockading. Within the enclosure was built a large "arbor"—the ramada of the Mexicans, covered with the boughs of trees, rushes, etc., which was used as a place of worship, and also as a school house. One of the old Lugo ranch-houses was included within the fort's limits.
The first teacher here was William Stout, who is well remembered by a number of prominent men of the San Bernardino of to-day, who were under his charge.
In this fort, built in the spring of 1852, took refuge the Mormons, as well as the other families living in the valley and also a number of Mexicans from Agua Mansa, who came to ask for protection and shelter, either entering the fort or camping close beside it. The stock of all parties was left outside where it could be pastured and herded.
In this fort, which covered some ten acres, lived the Mormons until 1853, when they scattered over the lands then surveyed for the first time.
A serious war with the Indians was apprehended at this period of fortification. At that time, a dozen soldiers stationed at the Chino Rancho composed the entire military force in the county. Volunteer companies were organized throughout Southern California, and arms procured as speedily as possible, all possible forces combining for strength to repel an attack. Perhaps intimidated by these preparations, the Indians for the time desisted from further depredations, except as they committed isolated murders upon miners, prospectors and rancheros.
As soon as the Indian difficulties were regulated the population began to increase.
In March or April of 1852 the first timber road was built to the forests on the summit. The able-bodied workers assembled to the number of 100 to 120, and in thirteen days they completed this wagon road fifteen or sixteen miles long. So well built, too, was it, that it served as the thoroughfare for the entire lumber traffic for twenty years. A sawmill was then built on the summit, followed before the winter of 1853 by two others, which were kept busy sawing out lumber for use below in the valley.
No time whatever had been wasted by these energetic, industrious colonists. They had set bravely to work from the very day of their arrival, in earnest endeavor to develop the resources of the situation. Even before they received the title to the land they began to plant vines and fruit trees; the first spring the Seeley brothers and others planted to orchard and vineyard some ten acres, in what is now known as the old Barton vineyard. The fall of their arrival witnessed the sowing of 3,000 acres of grain, which the next season yielded a large crop. Some barley was planted but the crops were wheat for the most part. One wheat-field on the plains of Old San Bernardino contained 1,600 acres. There was a very large "mountain field " also on the Muscupiabe Rancho, to the left of the Waterman Cation road.
The Mormons received as much as $5 per bushel for their wheat, as there were now many settlers at Los Angeles, where flour sold at from $15 to $18 per hundredweight. Thus, it must be seen that the Mormons made admirably commendable settlers, and their industry and thrift not only promoted rapid growth of the town, but developed the surrounding country. They purchased and brought under cultivation large tracts of land that hitherto had only nurtured sheep and cattle. Large fields of grain they sowed by their usual system of joint labor on the mesa lands near the base of the mountains, on what is now known as the Muscupiabe Rancho. On these lands, now barren from the lack of water, may still be seen traces of that earlier cultivation.
Lyman and Rich, who afterward associated with themselves in the ownership of the property Ebenezer Hanks, managed the affairs of the colony on a wise and liberal basis. They subdivided the entire rancho into tracts of varying size, ranging from five to ninety acres, and these lots they offered for sale at low prices and on easy terms of payment. In this way many settlers not of the Mormon faith were attracted into the valley.
Thus it was, too, that while many other fine ranchos of Southern California were given over to exclusive use as ranges for large bands of cattle and horses, this settlement was already divided by long lines of fences, dotted with cottages and covered with orchards and vineyards.
The Mormons were, too, a peaceable and law-abiding element, and as long as their party was in the majority they maintained good government.
It was not long, however, before the Gentiles were attracted to this beautiful valley in considerable numbers, coming from neighboring counties and from a distance; and between these and the Mormons hard feelings were soon engendered owing to disparity of tastes and customs, as well as to the conflict of mutual interests.
In 1852 came to San Bernardino the first physician, Dr. Ira Burris, who was shortly followed by Dr. Ainsworth. The settlement was always very healthy.
Up to this time all the territory to the Colorado river on the east had been comprised within the limits of Los Angeles County, and for the transaction of all business of a legal character the residents in the San Bernardino district were under the necessity of journeying to Los Angeles, the county seat, a distance of sixty miles. The State Legislature was now petitioned to ordain a division of the county, and accordingly on April 26, 1853, the Legislature of California passed an act separating from the county of Los Angeles a new county to be known as San Bernardino. This act appointed Isaac Williams, H. G. Sherwood, David Seeley and John Brown members of a board to designate election precincts, appoint inspectors, receive returns, and issue certificates of election.
The first county election was held in January, 1853, resulting in the election of the first officers of San Bernardino County, as follows: County Judge, D. N. Thomas; County Attorney, Ellis Ames; Clerk, Richard R. Hopkins; Sheriff, Robert Clift; Treasurer, David Seeley; Assessor, William Stout; Surveyor, H. G. Sherwood; Justices of the Peace, John Brown and Andrew Lytle. These officers entered upon their duties, and the new county assumed her portion of the debt of Los Angeles County, and moved forward under the new organization. The town of San Bernardino had been appointed as the county seat, by disposition of the act before mentioned, and in the spring of 1853 it was surveyed and laid off. The town as then platted was one mile square, and this was abundantly ample for the business needs of the time.
Among the first buildings erected upon the town site was the old Mormon Council-House, which was long a landmark of the town. This structure, which stood at the corner of Third and Grafton streets, was razed in July, 1867, to make way for a large, new brick building.
In 1856 was celebrated for the first time the Fourth of July.
At this time the friction between the Mormons and the Gentiles had grown to such a point as to menace serious difficulties, which were averted, in all probability, only by the circumstance that the Mormon population of San Bernardino was recalled to Utah, in consequence of causes as follows: President James Buchanan, in 1857, had sent out Alfred Cumming to take the office of Governor of Utah in place of Brigham Young, and to enforce the authority of the National Government a military force of 2,500 men was sent with Cumming. The chief of the Mormons attempted to oppose force of arms by armed force in resisting the mandate of the President, and to concentrate all his strength to that end he called in to Salt Lake all his distant followers from the outlying colonies of the church. The blindly faithful obeyed, and submitted to the sacrifice of their happy and fruitful homes and valuable lands, in exchange for the lesser attractions of Utah and a very fair prospect of death at the hands of the United States soldiery. These obedient ones took their departure, having sold to eager purchasers, and at nominal prices, their rich lands and careful improvements.
Others there were who resisted the manifest injustice of the sacrifices demanded of them, and so elected to remain in California and defy the thunders of the "prophet's" wrath. Among these independent spirits were the leaders, Messrs. Lyman, Rich, Hanks, and many others.
The departure of the majority of the Mormons relieved to a great extent the strain of feeling between their party and the other faction, although the animosity continued to exist for long thereafter.
In the fall of 1859 there took place in the town of San Bernardino a difficulty of local origin, that had somewhat the aspect of a civil war on a small scale. There were in the place two rival physicians, Dr. Ainsworth and Dr. Thomas Gentry. They met one day at a livery stable, and Ainsworth returned fire on Gentry, who fled, and sent word to his friends at El Monte that he was "corralled by Mormons." Impartial testimony on either side goes to show that the affair was purely personal, and that no faction or party question was concerned. But Gentry's friends at El Monte rallied to his summons, and, led by a rough named Frank Green, they set forth, 100 strong, prepared to capture the town if necessary. On arriving at San Bernardino, and learning the circumstances as they actually existed, the more rational of the invaders, comprising about one-half of the party, returned home, but the rest remained, being in a frame of mind disposed toward disorder. Ainsworth and his friends had intrenched themselves in an old adobe house on the corner - west of the South Methodist Church. As night came on, with no indications of the approach of the hostile party, the to-be-besieged, who were well armed with rifles and revolvers, went forth and dispersed themselves over the cornfield surrounding the house. It was not until a late hour that Green's gang was seen approaching the house, upon which all the party of defense lay down, leveling their guns upon the enemy. The party from El Monte formed in line of battle on the opposite side of the road as quietly as possible, but they retreated in confusion and disorder on perceiving that they were under the eyes and the guns of the foe. As a body they were demoralized, but certain individuals remained and caused some disorder and bloodshed. Jim Greenwade, Frank Green and the Sea brothers were thus persistent, Green shooting David Coopwood in the thigh. The ruffian Green was bravely attacked in his turn by Taney Woodward, and the two men emptied their pistols at each other at short range.
This fracas took place September 21, 1859 For days thereafter San Bernardino was a scene of lawless disorder. There were United States troops encamped on the banks of the Santa Ana river, three miles from town, but they did not interfere, probably because they were not called upon by the civil authorities. The sheriff was powerless to quell the mob, until at last he made a general call for all citizens to unite and drive out the intruders. This being done, peace and quiet, law and order, prevailed for a long time after.
Green subsequently met a violent death at El Monte, slain by a man whose father he had killed.
LAWLESSNESS.
In 1859—'60, politics ran high in San Bernardino County. There was a strong secessionist element, to oppose which John Brown rode over the country convoking the Union men thereof to rally at the old school-house to form a political organization. There were present at the first meeting John Brown, Charles G. Hill, William Heap, Moses Martin, and one other man and two ladies,—Mrs. Highmoor and Mrs. Blackburn. The meeting was interrupted by the advent of nineteen roughs, armed with various weapons, from clubs to cheese-knives and guns, who cursed the speaker and made other violent demonstrations, but who were finally persuaded to desist by the eloquence of John Brown, and their departure left the meeting free to continue. The Union League presently attained considerable power, and to its endeavors, in all probability, was due the local result of the presidential election, which showed a plurality of eighty-three for Lincoln—the first success of the party in the county. " Uncle George" Lord, now a veteran eighty-seven years old, was the president of the league, and the Mrs. Highmoor, mentioned as attending the first meeting, played the bass drum at the rallies.
At this period a strict watch was kept in this county and in Arizona along the route to be pursued, in order to prevent from passing through the country armed bands in sympathy with, and going to the assistance of, the Confederate forces. A regular organization for this purpose existed in Holcomb valley, being connected with similar leagues extending northward along the Sierra Nevada. The conditions of the section, largely populated by an immigration attracted by the gold mines, were peculiarly fitted to protect and foster enterprises of this character.
From political differences also arose a due in 1861, between Mr. Shoalwater and C. W. Piercy, who had been elected the preceding year to represent San Bernardino County in the Assembly. Mr. Piercy was killed in this combat.
In 1861 there was so large a population gathered at the mines in Holcomb valley that the precinct, at the general election, polled a vote of 230, which was nearly as much as all the rest of the county.
The position of San Bernardino as a frontier county, and the heterogeneous elements attracted by the mines, contributed greatly to local lawlessness and disorder. Not a few of the county offices having been captured by representatives of a desperado class attracted thither by the opportunity for crime and spoil, it became necessary to take protectionary measures; and therefore the best citizens united into a party pledged to support the law and maintain order. The county was almost bankrupted during the season of misrule, which lasted about four years. In those days, and indeed, for about twelve years, no attention was paid to Whigs, Democratic or Republican proclivities in politics, men being nominated for office by their friends, irrespective of party. As an instance of the little respect shown to the majesty of the law by the community at large, the following episode may be related: A man belonging to one clan or clique, stabbed to death a member of another clan, near Holcomb valley, and he was indicted and placed on trial at San Bernardino. Soon after the case opened fifteen men entered the court-room, heavily armed, and without removing their hats, they seated themselves near the jury. Judge Boren recognized them as friends of the accused, and read their purpose in their demeanor, their hard, determined faces, and their resolution in having marched forty miles for the occasion. Not a word spoke the intruders, paying the closest attention to the proceedings. After a time, these somber visitors adjourned to a source of liquid refreshment, and the magistrate also adjourned court until the afternoon. During the recess, the authorities had time for deliberation, and the jury, understanding that conviction of the prisoner would entail an outbreak and bloodshed, decided to acquit him, and did so.
About this time it was that J. M. Greenwade, who held the combined offices of County Clerk, Recorder and Auditor, became dissatisfied with the mode of procedure of the board of supervisors in the transaction of county business, drew his six-shooter and cleared the room of all those functionaries. Shortly after this, the same man, while intoxicated, met Judge Boren unarmed on the street, and, putting a pistol to the Judge's breast with one hand, with the other struck the Judge with a stick. Judge Boren retreated to where he could procure a gun, but was then prevented by the outsiders from shooting his county clerk, for which, as he has often expressed himself, he since feels profoundly content.
The winter of 1861–'62 was characterized by excessive rains, and in January, 1862, a heavy flood inundated the settlement of Agua Mansa, and the people barely escaped with their lives, fleeing homeless and beggared to the hills, while the angry waters swept away their homes, their stock, their fields and orchards, leaving a waste of sand-beds in place of the fruitful colony.
In 1862 John Brown, Sr., established a ferry across the Colorado river.
In 1863 the census showed the county to contain 1,072 children of the age prescribed as eligible for attendance at the public schools.
In 1864–'65–'66 hydraulic gold mining was extensively carried on in the Lytle creek canon.
During the civil war-1861–'65—there was no regular company mustered into service from San Bernardino County, although numerous individuals departed from that section, to join one or the other of the combatants. For three months there was, moreover, an encampment near the timber, of two companies, which went to Texas.
The winter of 1867 is said to have been the rainiest season on record, the rain being almost continuous for six weeks, and the rainfall being twice to thrice that of the average years. The ground remained wet from this excess of moisture for some years thereafter.
In February, 1867, a company of rangers, fitted out by the citizens of San Bernardino, made an expedition to the Mohave desert, for the purpose of chastising Indians who had been committing depredations. On the 18th, this party, consisting of some fifteen men, had a battle with some 100 Indians, Chimehuevas, Mohaves and Pah-utes, and four of the Indians were killed, one of the whites having his arm fractured by a ball.
In April, 1867, a small company on the way to Borax lake, found a rancheria of hostile Indians, and killed its denizens, finding relics of some of the whites previously slain by these Indians.
These maurauders in this year massacred Parish, Bemis, and Whiteside, who at the time were herding their stock near the north base of the sierra; and indeed it is but of very late years that it has been safe to attempt to effect a settlement or to pasture stock near the verge of the desert.
At this period the cultivation of citrus fruits, which has since become the leading industry of the county, was practically unassayed. In all the county the only orange trees were a few—not to exceed two or three dozen—at Old San Bernardino, and three or four on Judge Boren's place at San Bernardino proper. The general idea was that at no place in the county save at Old San Bernardino was the winter climate mild enough to spare these trees, and the supposed orange limit was therefore in that district; whereas present results show that the orange belt of San Bernardino County is at least forty miles long by thirty wide.
At this time, the leading industries were wheat, barley, corn, alfalfa, pumpkins, mission grapes, and deciduous fruits in moderate quantity.
At this time the only mail communication was by stage-coach via Los Angeles.
San Bernardino was then the great entrepot and furnishing point for the desert mines, as well as for those of Arizona; and this commercial importance continued to be hers until the traversal of the county by the Southern Pacific Railway, with its improved facilities for transportation.
In 1867, Henry Goodall, Sr., established the first brickyard in the county—still running in San Bernardino.
In 1870 " Uncle George" Lord, a pioneer in this as in many other directions, produced absolutely the first raisins grown and prepared in San Bernardino County. Other parties had already sold roughly-cured raisins from the Mission grapes; but Mr. Lord's raisins were from White Muscat grapes, which he raised on Lytle creek, on a farm four miles west of the town of San Bernardino. The scions of his White Muscat vines he had procured from El Monte, and he prepared the raisins after the approved regular process. On account of difficulties in obtaining the means of packing, he used empty cigar-boxes for that purpose, and put his goods, as a novelty, on the local market, where they sold readily at twenty-five cents per pound. Certain parties shipped by mail a number of boxes to the Eastern States, where, notwithstanding the flavor of tobacco with which the raisins were impregnated from the cigar-boxes, they were pronounced of superior quality.
The development of San Bernardino County has been comparatively slow, as contrasted with other portions of Southern California. The citizens here have been more conservative and less disposed to "boom" their section. The growth and development have been, however, remarkably steady and enduring, as will be seen in the divisions treating of the various districts.
It is notable, too, as a special feature, that while San Diego and Los Angeles counties have been developed largely by capital from abroad, San Bernardino County has depended almost entirely upon home moneys and domestic resources. It would almost seem, indeed, as if something in the soil and atmosphere fostered and nurtured the spirit of local exploitation displayed by the early Mormon settlers, to win from the land itself the price of its improvement; colloquially speaking, to "make it pay its own way as it goes along."
The increase of population in the county up to 1870 was slow, it numbering in that year only 7,310 souls. Then the era of fruit colonies began, and since that time the increase has been constant. The census of 1880 gave a population of 7,786, and in July, 1888, it was deemed that 29,415 was a fair estimate, based upon the school census of that year.
The school census, including all children between the ages of five and seventeen years, shows a steady increase each succeeding year, and, according to the accepted ratio between the census children and the whole number a inhabitants, the population of the county is now about 33,000.
It is estimated that that portion of the San Bernardino valley situated south of the mountain range contains about 450,000 acres of arable land. Of this area, 64,410 acres are under cultivation, and the remainder either is used for grazing purposes, or else lies as waste land, having no water available for irrigation. Of the 64,410 acres under cultivation, only 22,460 acres are planted to orchard and vineyard, and from this portion the income, counting the citrus fruit crop harvested in the spring of 1889, and the other fruit crop harvested later in that season, amounted to $1,635,000, with an estimated income of about $2,000,000 if the citrus crop of 1889–'90 be counted with the other fruit crop of 1889.
Transcribed by Kathy Sedler.