San Diego

County History

An Illustrated History of Southern California - The Lewis Publishing Company, Chicago - 1890

LAKESIDE.

At the extreme east end of the valley is the present terminus of the railroad. It has a splendid $50,000 hotel, which is well managed, and which has its own gas plant and several quite metropolitan features, with a lovely little pool, called Linda Lake, close by, two general stores, postoffice, blacksmith shop, lumber yard and livery stable. There are but few residences at Lakeside, but the situation is most beautiful and when times become better is sure to attract attention and improve rapidly. The other stations on the road, Hawley and Cowles, are at present flag stations merely. El Cajon valley has a bright future. As already stated, this has long been the largest wheat-producing valley in the county, owing to the exceptionally fine crops yielded in good years and its accessibility to market and export. Even in dry years, it is now thought, the occasional failure of the wheat crop could have been averted by thorough plowing and cultivation, in place of the superficial treatment then given. Experience has proved, however, that more profitable than wheat here is fruit and raisin growing.

This region is shut in, girdled in, as it were, by high, rugged hills, which do not indicate that there is much of interest beyond them. Yet in all directions among the hills there are valleys and mesas, or soft slopes that lead up to other hills yet higher. For instance, six miles beyond El Cajon, and 1,200 feet higher, or 1,600 feet above the sea, a winding mountain road reaches the old Spanish grant of

SANTA MARIA.

This valley, some thirty miles northeast of San Diego, has a population of over 500. The postoffice of the section is " Nuero." This valley contains some 15,000 acres of fine plain and slope with hills smooth and rolling and hills high, sharp, and rocky. The inhabitants are widely scattered over this superior farming country. In 1886 a tract of several thousand acres of this grant was purchased by capitalists, who laid off the site of Ramona, now a thriving colony, with extensive improvements, including an edifice for a branch of the University of Southern California, a hotel, etc.

Vineyards and orchards are now being extensively planted in this valley. As yet, sheep and stock raising are still strong interests. The grain crop never fails. In the driest year the county has ever known, $22,000 worth of wheat was harvested from 1,500 acres in this valley. Sugar-cane is planted for feed for stock, and is found to be the most profitable that can be grown for cows and other stock. The water supply is abundant for all purposes. Land here sells for $10 to $75 per acre.

VALLE DE LAS VIEJAS.

This valley, whose postoffice is "Viejas," adjoins El Cajon on the northeast, and is considered one of the county's best grain-growing sections. It is about thirty-five miles east of San Diego. The population is about 300. Bee­keeping is a prominent interest. Horses, cattle, and hogs are among the productions. The soil and climate are well adapted to vine and fruit growing, but comparatively little has been done in that direction, its development being of very recent beginning. Lands bring $10 to $50 per acre.

SAN VICENTE.

This rancho lies southeast of Santa Maria, between that valley and Las Viejas. It contains some 4,000 acres of fine plow land, is a fine tract, and susceptible of profitable development. The character of the country here is different from the lower levels, bearing more timber, although the great groves of live oaks that once abounded on these hills and slopes have disappeared for the most part. There are also numerous springs in the larger ravines, and indications of a copious rainfall. And, indeed, this valley is in the second rain belt, where the winter rains are always amply sufficient for full crops. The population is fifty or sixty. The chief interests are bee-keeping and stock-raising. Lands sell for $5 to $25 per acre.

JULIAN.

This, the largest settlement in the mountain region of San Diego County, was named from an early settler, M. S. Julian, near whose 160-acre claim of Government land gold quartz mines were discovered in February, 1870, causing a rush to the district. Other discoveries succeeded; a number of mines were opened up and quartz mills erected; a town site was laid out, and, with the ingress of a large population, it was soon well built over. For several years, much gold was taken out, and the community prospered. New and very rich mines were presently discovered in the San Felipe cañon, some three miles east of Julian, and there was organized another mining district called Banner, most of whose business has ever been transacted at Julian. About the same time, about eight miles southeast of Julian, was discovered a third mine, called the Stonewall, which in its turn gave its name to another mining district. This mine, after yielding large returns for a time, lay unworked for several years, and about 1884 or 1885 it was again operated by a company, who in turn sold it to Governor R. W. Waterman, an experienced mining man who, after working it in a thorough manner and very successfully, has just sold it for a large figure. But a cloud arose and soon overshadowed the fond hopes of the miner with only a prospect and no capital. The Cuyamaca grant claimed the land on which the mines were located, and commenced suit for possession of the same. This so disheartened the miners that when the Arizona excitement broke out they left their claims and a lawsuit for new fields, and in a very short time only a few remained. Some of those abandoned the mines and turned their attention to stock-raising, with only the faithful few left to fight the owners of the great Cuyamaca grant.

For five long years the faithful few stuck to the mines and fought the grant, and they were successful in the end. The mines produced the coin to secure for their claimants a title. Since that time this district has added to the wealth of the nation $5,000,000 in gold, and to-day her development is only in its infancy. Men of business methods, with brains and capital, are coming in, and the dawn of a new and prosperous era is here.

There are sixty-four mining locations in this district, according to the Recorder's books, and many of them are being prospected. A dozen good mines are now working in the camp. There are four quartz mills and a fifth now building. There are to-day 300 men working the mines of this district. Several good sales have been made lately, and more are under way; $6,000,000 of St. Louis capital is headed this way and the syndicate has already got a good hold on some of the best mines in the district. The sum of $200,000 has been expended in mining improvements this year in this district, and next year will see a much larger development than ever before.

But these are not the only mineral resources of this section. A few miles east of Julian, and on the line of the proposed railroad, is a deposit of lime and cement, covering 100 acres of ground. Here in time will be established an immense plant for the manufacture of these staple articles.

There are also at hand ledges of marble fifty feet in width, and large quarries will be put in operation as soon as transportation by rail can be had.

Moreover, iron and copper ore of a good quality are known to exist, but in what quantity is yet to be determined. These things and many more are awaiting capital for development, which will find its way up here as soon as the Cuyamaca Railroad is completed, which will carry them to a market.

Although most of the inhabitants had deserted for the feverish excitement of mining the original pursuit of farming, a few still kept to their farm-holdings and derived a good revenue from the sale of supplies to the miners. And when the mining interests declined, these earlier wise ones received heavy reinforcements, stimulated by the example of their success, and by attachment to their mountain homes. It was the old story of early California experience over again; they who came for gold remained for grain, and found it the richer bonanza.

Great quantities of Government land were filed upon, and again immigration set toward Julian, this time with staying purpose, as evinced by the large and steadily increasing number of farms and orchards in that section, whose interests of fruit and grain growing, stock-raising and bee-keeping far surpass those of the three or four mines still working. Julian is distant from San Diego forty-three and one-third miles in direct line, and sixty miles by the route; it may be reached in two ways, of which the longer, via El Cajon and Lakeside, is the easier and more practicable. There is a steady ascent from El Cajon, bringing the traveler to an altitude of a little over 4,000 feet. The country round about is partly plateau, with long, rolling sweeps of hills, dropping down by easy grades; partly mountain country so abrupt as to fall nearly 1,000 feet in three miles. On some of the mountain tops there is considerable level land, where are raised many hogs and cattle. The three peaks of the Cuyamaca Mountain, the highest of which reaches 6,750 feet altitude, is a prominent landmark as far as San Diego, and very striking, especially when covered with snow in winter. The Julian country has many characteristics of the climate of the Eastern States, with a much greater rainfall and winter snows, often quite heavy. The water supply is abundant. The San Felipe is a large stream, and constant, from which some of the quartz mills took their power in past years. At the southern end of the Cuyamacas rises the San Diego river, joined here by four large tributaries. A large laguna, lake or pond, has always existed in front of the Stonewall mine, at 5,350 feet altitude. Through the draining of its outlet by the San Diego Flume Company, this has become a lake nearly three miles long, and one mile wide, on an average. Moreover, the whole section abounds in living springs and small streams. The mountains still contain considerable quantities of oak and pine timber, but the furnaces of the quartz mills have made great inroads on the former forests.

Grapes and deciduous fruits are here grown in large quantities and of superlative flavor. The apple and pear orchard of Chester Gunn is the largest in the county.

BANNER

is on the desert side of the divide, and 1,500 feet lower than Julian, although only four miles away. It is a mining camp, and but few have turned their attention to fruits, but enough has been done by John Ryan to give an idea of the possibilities of the great San Felipe valley, which is only a mile away. This valley contains 10,000 acres, with water enough to irrigate it all. No one can estimate the wealth it will be made to produce as soon as a railroad shall be built here.

Julian, Banner and Spencer have good school­houses. The population of Julian and its outlying dependencies is 2,500 to 3,000. These settlements have telephone communication with one another and with San Diego, with which city they will soon have railroad communication. Julian has a postoffice and tri-weekly mail service, a public hall, and the necessary complement of stores and shops. There is still good Government laud in the mountains, although it is being taken up with great rapidity. Other than Government land can be had for $10 to $50 per acre, according to situation, quantity, etc.

In this section there are such varieties of altitude as to affect very noticeably the wooding of the region, which pretty well covers the 20,000 acres of tillable land hereabouts. There is an oak much like the Eastern red oak, which grows at a height of 3,500 feet, and a new, a mountain variety of the live oak, which resembles the Eastern white oak. An occasional pine is here seen, and presently the " bull " pines become abundant, to give way to tall specimens of the silver fir, the cedar, and regular pines often six feet in diameter.

There are within a radius of fifteen miles, taking Julian as the center, 16,000 head of horses and cattle, and about 10,000 head of sheep, which make their own living winter and summer. The stock are of a good grade, many of the cattle being milk stock.

The survey of the Cuyamaca Railroad runs through the heart of this district, Santa Ysabel, Warner's ranch and San Felipe, and when it is completed San Diego city need not send out of the county for her produce. In all the sub-districts named above, except the last, no irrigating is required or practiced, although plenty of water is at hand. Every kind of fruit and other products are grown except citrus fruits.

But a few miles to the eastward the country slopes suddenly to the Colorado desert, 5,000 feet below, a waste of sand, sterile, level, vast, fiery and awful; a region so entirely different from the rest of its political division, that its classification therewith is purely formal, and this is not taken into account at all in treating of San Diego County proper.

THE CUYAMACA DISTRICT.

The Cuyamaca district comprises a series of plateaus, rising gradually from the eastern sides of Santa Maria and Escondido valleys, and extending back into the mountains some twenty miles, and attaining an altitude of from 2,500 to 4,400 feet, culminating at Julian and Mesa Grande, the latter name meaning "big plateau."

The surrounding peaks of Palomar, Volcan and the Cuyamaca mountains rise some 2,000 feet higher, and are densely covered with evergreen forests of pine, cedar, fir and oak, aggregating 50,000 acres of timber. Several of these plateaus are nearly surrounded by neighboring hills and are therefore called valleys. They contain shady groves of California live-oak, and lazy streams move peacefully along their path to the sea. The ocean is from thirty to forty miles away, and scores of miles of its silvery surface and several of its islands may be seen from many points on this slope. Some points in Mexico are also visible, and, with a good glass, the light-house on Point Loma.

With this general view of the climate and scenery of the backbone of the back country, let us take a cursory glance at each of the sub-districts which form the Cuyamaca.

BALLENA.

Located about thirty-five miles northeast of San Diego, Ballena is a flourishing agricultural settlement, on some of the best farming lands in the county. The principal interests are grain-growing (hay also being raised in abundance), cattle-raising and bee-keeping.

The orange is found to do moderately well in some of the most sheltered cañons, while the fig is one of the standard productions. The raisin grape does exceedingly well, and the output, though small as yet, is increasing each year. No disease has ever appeared among the vines. It has been but a few years that the farmers have paid any attention to fruit-growing, but the excellence of their apples, pears, peaches and plums has caused such a demand for their fruits that they now have over 6,000 fruit-trees and 20,000 grape-vines growing.

The immediate Ballena valley contains, with its slopes, some 2,000 acres, and it is the center of a settlement over 6,000 acres. This tract lies 2,500 feet above the sea. There is always sufficient rainfall for the crops, which have never failed since the first settlement. Land prices are quoted at $15 to $50 per acre. The population is some 400. There is a postoffice with tri-weekly mail service, a public school­house with two departments, a hotel, a church and a blacksmith shop. There is room in this valley for the settlement of fifty more families.

SAN JACINTO VALLEY.

Mountain region also, but in quite another section than that of Julian, being in the extreme northern part of the county, and also in its highest portion, is San Jacinto. The altitude of the valley averages 1,400 feet above the sea-level. This region resembles the mountainous parts of Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties, rather than the general corresponding portion of San Diego.

It is some fifty miles from the sea coast, and is consequently free from the dense fogs which are so frequently blown inland. It is protected by the high mountain wall on the east, and northeast from the desert winds and sand storms.

The extensive valley has a length, east and west, of thirty miles, and a width of fifteen miles. The main valley contains something like 100,000 acres, while with its tributary valleys there are perhaps 300,000 acres of highly fertile and easily tillable prairie land.

Until quite recently the sole occupants of this vast territory were the Spanish and Mexican shepherds, herders and the native Indians. Vast tracts of land were granted by the Mexican government to those who had served them in a military capacity.

San Jacinto Viejo, for example, a tract of some 36,000 acres, was granted to Señor Estudillo. In making his selection Señor Estudillo ran his lines in such a manner as to include the choicest land, with abundant water privileges. Many miles of the San Jacinto River are included in the grant, as is the beautiful Diamond valley. Angles were run out here and there to include flowing springs.

This grant has been subdivided again and again, and is now held by many owners. It includes the towns of San Jacinto, South San Jacinto, Valle Vista and Hemet, all of which have made a good start toward prosperous growth. It includes the Fairview, Hemet, Hemet-Estudillo, San Jacinto Land Association, Byrne and other tracts. Most of these have been subdivided into farm lots of ten, twenty and forty acres each. Many of these are sold to individuals who have improved them or intend to do so.

There is a large tract of this land in which artesian flow of water is obtained at a depth of from 50 to 2000 feet.

A branch of the Santa Fé penetrates this region, and has the reputation of being one of the best paying pieces of road in the entire system. At its terminus is

THE THRIVING TOWN OF SAN JACINTO,

situated in the artesian belt, surrounded by natural groves of cottonwood timber. The rapidly growing little town and its immediate environs has a population of some 1,500, being the second in size and importance in the county, after National City. This is the old tract of San Jacinto Viejo, of which a number of capitalists purchased 18,000 acres of land here, and proceeded to lay out San Jacinto. The town was incorporated April 9, 1888, comprising sections 25, 26, 27, 34, 35 and 36, except one-fourth of the two last named, which are inside the city limits, being called South San Jancinto.

The town has a bank of $100,000 capital, a $5,000 school-house, three good churches, with another now building, three large storage warehouses, some twenty-five good two-story brick buildings, with many of one-story. Here is published the San Jacinto Register. Among the professional men are three physicians and two dentists. There are three large general merchandise establishments, two grocery stores, two drug stores, two each in the hardware and the furniture line, two blacksmith shops, two livery stables, two meat markets, two carriage shops, four shoe stores or shops, three real estate offices, one millinery store, one billiard room, one harness shop and one bakery.

In South San Jacinto there are some 250 inhabitants. Here stands the old adobe building that first served San Jacinto as a hotel and store, close by a large brick block of recent construction, containing the present good modern hotel—a notable contrast between the old and the new. There are here six religions congregations and three Sunday-schools, a G. A. R. post, and a court of the Independent Order of Foresters.

The future of San Jacinto is assured through its situation as the shipping point for a large agricultural tract, having tributary some 200,000 acres of choice land adapted to grain culture and diversified fruit crops. The mountains near by abound in timber for lumber and fuel purposes, large forests of pine, hemlock, sugar-pine and tamarack existing in the San Jacinto and the Toemitch Mountains to the eastward, where two saw-mills are kept busy sawing out lumber the year round. These mountains also contain a fine deposit of marble, and although it has been used hitherto only for burning into lime, of which it produces the finest quality, it is admirably adapted for building purposes.

While it is probable that a large proportion of these immense plains will continue to be cultivated as grain fields, yet many thousand acres will in the near future be turned into the more profitable fruit farms.

Already many orchards of deciduous fruits, nuts, olives and vines are planted and are doing well without irrigation, but they require, for perfect development of the best fruit, some irrigation.

Surface water is plentiful at a depth of seven to thirty feet, and besides the eighty-three artesian wells irrigating several thousand acres, one alone yielding 1,500,000 gallons per diem, extensive irrigation enterprises are on foot, engineered by two water companies. One proposes to build at the mouth of a Hemet valley gorge, at an elevation of 4,375 feet above the sea, a granite dam seventy feet through at its foundation. This structure, which is to cost $130,000 to $140,000, will create a lake three miles long, covering 600 acres, with an average depth of sixty-five feet, and containing the enormous volume of 6,000,000,000 of gallons of water, which will thence be conducted in twenty-two-inch iron pipes to the tracts in question. Then there is the San Jacinto Land, Flume and Irrigation Company, a stock company with $50,000 capital, which has been recently organized and is constructing works for the purpose of supplying water to thousands of acres of this mesa land. Their base of operations is the "cienega" or swamp, which begins at a point on the river some four miles above San Jacinto. Here has been located 5,000 miner's inches of water heretofore unappropriated. From time immemorial the old Spanish settlers, during the seasons of drouth, when the river for miles both above and below was dry, at this "cienega" water always came to the surface, and there was no time but thousands of head of stock could be watered there. The wet place or "cienega" in the river is about one-fourth mile in length and extends entirely across the river, a distance of some 800 feet wide. During the season of lowest water, workmen were engaged. Mr. Griffin engaged workmen to go into the river here and with a pile driver drive a number of wells with a view to ascertaining the cause of the water's rise at this point, and also to find the character of the bottom, if any. Some thirty wells were driven down through the sand and gravel and a fine solid clay bottom found at an average depth of fourteen feet; immediately below this point the clay drops off suddenly, and the water sinks and is seen no more. To this cienega, with its "upside-down river," a subterranean stream 800 feet wide, pouring over the hard pan of clay, and so filling the superincumbent stratum of sand and gravel that water always lies on the surface,—to this vast source of supply is to be run a tunnel 1,584 feet long, whose end will rest on the clay bottom, fifteen feet below the surface, completely draining the great basin, and diverting its flood into the flumes of the company, for which to reach the mesa will be required over 500,000 feet of lumber. There is already completed one mile of ditching, and the work is to be pushed with great vigor. There are also in this vicinity numerous mineral springs, at one of which a bathing-house has been erected.

VALLE VISTA

Is situated five miles southeast of San Jacinto. It is the town of the Fairview tract, formerly known as Florida. It contains a fine three-story brick hotel, costing $10,000 and constructed, so far as bricks, lime and lumber go, entirely of the products of its own vicinity.

Valle Vista also contains a brick block in which is located the postoffice and a general store. Some twenty-five tasteful cottages are grouped around these. The streets are beautifully laid out, graded and ornamented with trees and shrubbery. The grounds about the hotel are especially beautiful with flowers and semi­tropical plants. At this writing, December 28, roses are in bloom there.

The Fairview Land and Water Company originally owned about 3,000 acres of laud, upon which water was piped from San Jacinto River, twenty-five miles of pipe being laid at a cost of $60,000, making this tract at the present time the best watered land in the valley.

The land is subdivided into twenty and forty-acre tracts. About one-half of these have been sold. Many orange orchards have been set out, and it has been demonstrated beyond a doubt that oranges will do well here.

Among surroundings for which nature has done so much lie the lands of the Hemet Land Company. These comprise about 10,000 acres, nearly level, with merely enough slope to favor irrigation, a mesa or table-land, with an elevation of from 1,600 to 1,000 feet above the sea. The soil is all that could be desired, as the abundant native grasses indicate. There is absolutely nothing grown in California which will not flourish here. Alfalfa grows throughout the winter, and with water seven crops a year can be raised.

SANTA YSABEL.

Northeastward again, and still upward, among hills and valleys, forty-five miles from San Diego, and 3,000 feet above the sea, lies the valley of Santa Ysabel, the center of the rancho of that name, which contains nearly 18,000 acres, of which this central valley, with its slopes and branches, comprises some 4,000 acres. A living stream of considerable volume, the Santa Ysabel creek, flows through the rancho the year round.

There are small streams in nearly every gulch, and springs on every hand, with every indication of a heavy rainfall. The very best feed years here are in the coast "bad" years. The main valley and all the surrounding hills are superlative stock range, and among the line of timber on the rolling hills is rich range of grass and wild oats. This rancho was lately sold to Brackett & Co., Sonoma County farmers, who have stocked it with fine young cattle, and are carrying on an extensive dairy business, their cheese and "gilt-edged" butter finding a ready market.

The Santa Ysabel ranch has three large dairies on it, and milk 500 cows. This year they have sold sixty tons of the best butter to be found in the country. Here is the home of Shiloh, the now celebrated sire, with an endless progeny at his heels. He may be seen any day within two miles of Julian, at the ranch of his owner, James Madison.

Yet, although such might seem to be the only industries, there are large portions of the rancho, not needed for the dairy-farming enterprise, which are peculiarly adapted to fruit-growing. This region is very beautiful as landscape. On the banks of the stream already cited an Indian village has existed for more than a century. Its inhabitants have a Roman Catholic chapel, and a school maintained by the United States government.

MESA GRANDE.

A long grade winds steadily upward to the section known as Mesa Grande, an extensive range of mountain country, most of whose top is level land, whence the name. This tract comprises some 6,000 acres of splendid plow land, on which are a number, steadily increasing, of fine farms and orchards. This is 3,500 to 4,500 feet above the sea. The climate and the appearance of the country here are very much more akin to those of the eastern United States than those even of Ballena, and entirely dissimilar to the land thirty miles to the westward. Here again are plenty of springs and running brooks, and a scarcity of rain is unknown. In fact, the land sometimes has to be drained of the superabundant moisture, the rainfall sometimes going above sixty-six inches, the highest in the county. In 1877, the famous "dry year" in this State, the rainfall here, at an elevation of 3,500 feet, was twenty-four and a half inches. Until very recently almost the only interests were cattle and hog-raising and bee-keeping; a good deal of choice butter, bacon and lard are made on the mesa, finding ready sale at Julian and in the surrounding country. Of late this has been found to be a remarkably fine fruit-growing section, the grape being successfully grown, and the deciduous fruits arriving very near horticultural perfection. The cherries are of particularly choice quality. In this section there is a very rich gold quartz mine, the Shenandoah, from which large returns have been extracted. Owing to certain legal complications, this mine has of late been lying idle, but work will no doubt be resumed on it shortly.

Spencer valley contains about 1,000 acres of first-class fruit land. There are now about 1,000 apple and other fruit trees in bearing, and 3,000 more in orchard. All kinds of deciduous fruits and berries do well here. The almond and olive also do well. The valley is already covered with marks of enterprise and prosperity. A large nursery, postoffice, good school, and homes for many are to be found here.

TEMECULA.

The Temécula country, so called from an Indian word meaning "the valley of joy," is situated about the center of the northern half of San Diego County. The Menifee mountains bound it on the north, the Bladen hills on the east, the Palomar range on the south, and the Santa Rosa coast range on the west. This territory contains more than 100 square miles of valley and undulating plains. The general elevation is about 1,000 feet. The drainage is by the way of the Temécula cañon, through the Santa Margarita rancho, to the sea. The view from any elevated situation hereabouts is grand, the vast sweep of vision comprising the snow­capped San Jacinto mountains, the timbered belt of the Palomar, and the evergreen range of the Santa Rosa hills, the only evergreen range on the line of the California Southern Railway. The Temécula rancho is divided into three several tracts, known as the Little Temécula, the Pujol, and the Murrietta portion.

Included in this district are the celebrated Temecula Hot Sulphur Springs, whose temperature ranges from 120° to 160°. A fine bathing establishment has been erected at these springs, and further extensive improvements are projected.

The settlement or business center called Temecula is a railroad station on the California Southern, seventy-five miles north of San Diego. The population is about 600. There are two hotels, postoffice with daily mail, a public school­house, two stores, blacksmith and wagon shop, and telegraph office. A large and important section surrounds Temecula as a central point. The Temecula Rancho is bounded westerly by the high slopes of the Santa Rosa; it extends from where the Santa Margarita river enters the cañon skirted by the railroad, some ten miles along the line of that road. It contains about 10,000 acres of arable land, mostly red mesa or granite alluvium, at from 1,100 to 1,500 feet above the sea, twenty-five miles distant. Adjoining this is the Little Temecula, a small grant of some 2,000 acres of plow land, with the same general features. Water is to be had four to twelve feet below the surface, and it is claimed that farming lands require little or no irrigation, the average annual rainfall being over eighteen inches. Large tracts have been subdivided by organized companies, a town site is laid out, and extensive improvements are in hand. The soil is adapted to a diversified agriculture; fruit and vine growing will be largely undertaken in the future. The present principal products are cattle, sheep, wool, grain and hay.

BEAR VALLEY.

This is a very productive section, about forty miles north of San Diego. Its postoffice is "Valley Center." The population is about 1,000. The district is ten miles long, eight wide, with more than 15,000 acres under cultivation. This comprises farming land as fine as any on the Pacific coast, and crops have never failed here. There is much mesa and sloping land, and the average elevation is 1,500 feet. The rainfall here is more than three times as heavy as on the seacoast. Most kinds of fruits thrive here. The productions are hogs, fine stock, bacon, grain and honey. The central settlement contains a brick church, a school-house, store, San Diego Central Railway, blacksmith shop, etc.

Southeast of Bear valley is situated the Guejito Rancho, a fine tract some thirty-five miles from the sea, and about 2,200 feet above it, and comprising rolling mesa and valley land, whose soil is red granite. This tract comprises some 13,000 acres, recently sold to San Diego capitalists. Lands in the Bear valley section sell for $15 to $50 the acre, the variations depending upon the usual causes.

PALA.

This is the location of one of the old auxiliary missions. It is situated in the upper San Luis valley, some seventeen miles from the coast, and about fifty miles north of San Diego. There is still a large Indian settlement here, and the Indians still keep many of the old-time feasts, with many picturesque and curious observances. The old mission church still stands, and in it are still held the services of the Roman Catholic faith. Moreover, good crops are still yielded by the olive trees planted eighty years ago by the Franciscan fathers. The population is about 600. There is a mail route, having tri-weekly mail service, to Temécula, where connection is made with the California Southern Railway. This is the center of a very rich section whose rainfall is abundant, and the water supply unfailing. There is here a very large area of some of the finest vine and fruit lands in Southern California. The Agua Tibia (tepid water) orchard, so named from a fine and celebrated warm sulphur spring on the estate near the farm house, is the most extensive in the county. Its former owner was Major Lee H. Utt, who sold it to a company of Eastern capitalists, who have purchased much land hereabouts for colony purposes. All the finest varieties of the grape grow here, as well as nuts, and fruits citrus and deciduous. Frost has never been known here, and the climate and soil are especially adapted to the production of the choicest grade of orange. Alfalfa is very successfully grown, and there is a great deal of fine stock raised. Bee-keeping is also a strong industry, Pala boasting extensive apiaries. The lands here bring $10 to $75 per acre, subject to the usual qualifications.

FALL BROOK.

The settlement known as the Fall Brook country is on mesa land south of the river San Luis Rey, and beyond the line of the rancho Santa Margarita. It is some twelve miles from the sea, on the western slope of the Coast Range mountains. The average of level is 800 feet above the sea, and some 400 feet above the line of the California Southern Railway, from which it is out of sight, being so much higher, and a mile or two distant. This section comprises something like 100 square miles, extending from eight to ten miles east and west, and from ten to twelve miles north and south, this limit embracing about 75,000 acres of the very best quality of land, entirely adapted to the growth of grain, fruit, and vegetables. Topographically, the district consists of a succession of hills, valleys, and gently undulating plateaus, free from rock or stone, and susceptible of the highest cultivation. The soil is of granite formation, a dark loam in the valleys, red or chocolate on the slopes and hills. Water is to be had in abundance from surface wells 4 to 100 feet deep. Its quality is soft and fine. Soon after passing Fall Brook, the line of the California Southern plunges into the famous Temecula cañon, with its highly picturesque scenery and its remarkably skillful feats of railroad engineering. This cañon, from the extreme near Fall Brook to the Temecula end is fourteen miles long. The most important settlement in this community is the nucleus also called Fall Brook, a thriving center of some 600 population. It has a postoffice with daily mail, a Methodist and a Baptist church, costing respectively $3,000 and $5,000, a good public school-house with two departments, two large hotels, of which the Frances Willard cost some $20,000; a newspaper, a steam grist-mill, a lumberyard, livery-stable, five stores, a millinery and a jeweler's shop, a watch-mender, blacksmith and wagon shop, and a barber shop. A cannery is to be built very shortly. During the past season, 5,159 acres were planted to grain; 627 acres, largely planted during the past year, are set to fruits. There are over 8,000 orange and lemon trees, and about 9,000 olive trees; many hundreds of acres are to be set to olives during the coming season. The largest bearing olive orchard at Fall Brook yielded its owners at the rate of $500 per acre last year, the trees therein being nine years old. There are in this section nearly 65,000 grape vines, most of which are too young to bear a full crop, many being still too young to bear at all, although there has been some raisin packing done for two seasons past. The most promising industries seem to be lemon and olive culture. Land can be bought here at from $10 to $100 per acre, much of that sold at the latter price being in a condition of substantial improvement, and convenient to town and railroad facilities.

WARNER'S RANCH.

This tract takes its name from Colonel J. J. Warner, the picturesque and well-known pioneer of Los Angeles, who owned it under the Mexican rule, and back to about 1836. This was the scene of a savage attack by Indians, wherein nine men were killed, November 21, 1851. It embraces the two Mexican grants of San Jose del Valle, and Valle de San José, comprising in all some 26,600 acres. It has been for some years in the possession of ex-Governor John G. Downey, and is now in litigation. This rancho is well watered, having springs in the mountains, small springs flowing through the valley, and numerous lagunas, or ponds, large and small, which attract game in large quantities. The altitude of the valley is about 3,000 feet, and snow falls occasionally in winter. Good farming land is abundant, but there is little tilling of the soil, the rancho being almost exclusively devoted to cattle and sheep-raising. The annual wool-clip of Warner's ranch is larger than that of any other single section of the county.

The voting precinct of this extensive valley is called Agua Caliente, the township having a population of about 100, and being named from the celebrated hot sulphur springs on the rancho, about sixty miles distant from San Diego. The remarkable curative properties of these springs were current in the most remote traditions of the Indians, and the white men have resorted to them ever since the settlement of the country. The springs rise along the edge of a little stream of pure cold water, whose source is in the Agua Caliente mountains. The temperature varies at different points, but the hottest of the Springs ranges from 120° to 124° F., being hotter in the earlier part of the day, and cooling somewhat in the afternoon. The water is used for both drinking and bathing, being very soft and particularly effective and luxurious for the latter purpose. Physicians and analysts who have investigated the properties of these springs, and their effect in special cases, regard them as of extreme potency and value. The water possesses powerful alterative qualities, and they are very beneficial in chronic rheumatic diseases, in certain forms of kidney

diseases, and in some cases of dyspepsia. These hot springs are in the possession of a community of Mission Indians, whose village has stood upon that site from time immemorial. They have built along the stream side small bathing houses, rude but cleanly kept, to whose tubs the hot spring water is led by small wooden

flumes. They have also small adobe houses to let to parties desiring to protract their stay.

Agua Caliente is a favorite spot of resort for summer campers, on account of the springs, and the picturesque surrounding mountain scenery. For a number of years the Government has maintained here a Government school, under the constant charge of Miss Flora Walsh, whose success with her pupils has been remarkable.

At the eastern outlet of the valley is the pass known as "Warner's Pass," through the mountains to the Colorado desert. It has been mentioned, in several reports of surveys for trans­continental railways, as a feasible pass for the entrance into California of an overland railroad; and it will probably be used ere long for that purpose.

OAK GROVE.

Continuing westward from Warner's Ranch fifteen miles is encountered Oak Grove, a station between Temécula and Julian. This is a voting precinct with about fifty in population. This is a fine farming and stock-raising country, and, like a great part of the Palomar country, it is Government land, occupied under the homestead and pre-emption laws.

AGUANGA.

This is another voting precinct, six miles west of Oak Grove, also having a population of perhaps fifty. There are good farming locations also in this section, which, like the preceding, with proper facilities for transportation may become of considerable importance. The present industry is the raising of cattle, sheep and

hogs.

THE PALOMAR.

This, the " pigeon nest" or " dove cote," is thus named from the immense flocks of wild pigeons formerly found in the range. They are still to be seen on and near its summit, but they are rapidly diminishing in numbers. The whole range is also sometimes called, like the postoffice and voting precinct, " Smith's Mountain," from a rancher of that name who was murdered some years ago in his cabin on the mountain. This mountain's long, high back runs away to Temecula, and forms the eastern wall of the upper San Luis valley. It is one of the most conspicuous ranges in the county, rising to an altitude of 5,800 feet above the sea level, and extending from Warner's ranch to the Temécula valley, its trend being northwest and southeast. At its southeastern end the San Luis Rey river flows from its sources on Warner's ranch, and the Santa Ysabel flows through a narrow gorge between its base and that of the northern end of the Mesa Grande, the river being swelled as it runs toward the sea by the many creeks and small streams that flow into it from the western slope of the mountain. Its top and sides bear a great deal of timber, consisting of pine and oak, silver fir and cedar. On its summit there is a great deal of level farming land, and large openings of rich meadow land among its beautiful groves; while numerous small, fertile valleys, all well watered, are found on its sides, but chiefly on the western slope, descending to the San Luis Rey river. It is well watered, abounding in living springs and small streams of pure, cold water. While the summit is subject to heavy snow-falls in winter, there is a belt lying along the western slope where frost is almost unknown, and which is peculiarly well adapted to the growth of the olive, the vine and the citrus fruits, and moreover most of the deciduous fruits and the vegetables. This belt includes the Agua Tibia, whose oranges are excelled by no others; the Cuca, a Mexican grant about 2,500 feet above the sea level, containing only some 600 or 800 acres of arable land, which is, however, of very superior quality; and in this belt lies also Pauma, which is about 1,500 feet above the level of the sea, from which it is some twenty-four miles distant. This is an old Mexican grant. It is now the property of the Roman Catholic bishop of southern California, from whom Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson, acting in her capacity of Indian Commissioner, tried to purchase it for the benefit of a remnant of the tribes of the Mission Indians. An Indian village stands on the banks of that tributary of the San Luis Rey river called the Pauma creek, whose waters the Indians use for irrigating purposes. The land is admirably adapted for fruit and vine growing. The Pauma creek is a large stream, and a constant one. This is one of the finest and best-watered ranchos in the valley.

POWAY.

Twenty-two miles northeast from San Diego and twelve miles from the Pacific Ocean, sheltered from the sea winds and banked round against the inflow of the frosty air currents descending seaward from the high interior altitudes, lies Poway valley. In the old mission records it is alluded to as Paguay," and known as a resort of the herds of the padres. This title also appears in documents of the departmental government at Monterey. Being an Indian name, it obviously existed only as a sound prior to the Spanish occupation, when it must have been given its first written expression. The early pages of the present county records afford curious illustration of how assessors and other county officials, ignoring the Spanish orthography, had recourse to various spellings to indicate the recognized pronunciation, among which the present form of "Poway" has finally been adopted by general usage.      

Signifying the " meeting of the valleys," the name, like most of aboriginal derivations, is peculiarly appropriate. A cluster of valleys, as a rule a little exceeding one-half mile in width, opens upon a central expanse of about a mile square. These valleys are concealed one from another by the direction of those intruding headlands which alone prevent their union in one extended plain.

The neighborhood embraces about 60,000 acres of fine tillable land, having an average elevation of 500 feet, above which the immediate surrounding elevations mostly rise 300 feet higher. Added to this may be estimated at least an equal extent of land adapted to pasturage.

Only a fortunate combination of circumstances prevented Poway being caught in the strangling loop of a Mexican grant, which, like a lariat, was thrown about and held in relentless bondage nearly every considerable tract of tillable land in San Diego County. Remaining a part of the Government domain, the valley was occupied as a stock range by Philip Crosswaithe in 1858, and by his successors confined to this use for the following ten years, when other settlers began to gather in and dispute the supremacy of hoof and horn. The turbulence which followed is a part of the traditional history of the county, but it subsided with the drifting out of the contentious element and the succession of families of intelligent, home and order-loving people. The predomination of this latter class in the present population of about 400 persons seldom fails to impress the careful observer, and has exerted a marked influence in the general social, moral and educational development so much resembling that of the best Eastern communities. It is a valley without a saloon, but with a Good Templars' organization of over fifty members, which has maintained its weekly meetings without omission, except from stress of weather, during its entire existence of over eleven years, and built itself a commodious lodge hall at a cost of some $800, which, with the complete finishing, will soon be increased to $1,000. Three church societies, Methodist Episcopal, Congregational and Baptist, with resident pastors, sustain regular services and secure an attendance of over one-third the people residing within the area of convenient access. The Methodist Episcopal Church, costing $2,500, is noticeable as one of the most tasteful structures in the county's settlements. An excellent school, whose numbers will soon require graded departments, is well maintained.

In material advancement Poway is not merely a land of promise. A large area of muscat vine­yards contribute their quota of raisins to the output of California, of a quality commanding the highest market rates in San Francisco and winning the first premiums in the recent county fair at Escondido. Her peach orchards have acquired a reputation for the superiority of their products, which affords their owners a ready password and profitable exit to and from the fruit stores and households of San Diego. Over 2,000 olive trees are in orchard and a large extent of miscellaneous fruits distributed over the entire known range, except cherries, currants and gooseberries, whose successful culture is confined to interior regions of higher altitude. The wine interest has no commercial representation here. The nursery business for some years established at this point is of importance and rapidly growing. The demand for the home-grown stock of the Poway valley nurseries has kept fully abreast of the ability of its proprietors to increase. Recent arrangements for its ample further extension will greatly augment its future stock. It is intended to make this nursery the main source of supply for the coming planting of the large surrounding country so readily accessible by the roads radiating from this natural trade center.

Nearly the entire area of Poway is excellently suited to the production of oranges and lemons, and some favored nooks, as notably the Havermale place, are so nearly frostless as to allow the cultivation of the more tender lime. Its soil closely resembles that of Redlands in San Bernardino County, while its minimum temperature in periods of greatest cold, is shown to be two degrees higher than that of Riverside at the same dates. The absence of irrigating and railroad facilities chiefly accounts for the limited planting of citrus fruits now apparent, but it has been of sufficient extent and duration to prove the flattering possibilities of the future. Present prospects warrant confidence that these possibilities will soon receive a stimulus which will result in their assuming the tangible form of accomplished facts. Situated upon the announced routes of both Pamo and the San Luis Rey water companies in their approach to the extensive table lands of the ex-Mission and to San Diego, Poway may be congratulated upon its prospect of an early and abundant water supply under the most favorable conditions.

With its average annual rainfall of nearly fifteen inches and copious wells of excellent water at easy depth, it is less dependent upon such facilities than many other localities, yet its residents are not indifferent to the advantages of a liberal resource of this character at ready command, and important plans are already matured awaiting its possession.

Surveys of both the California Central and Southern Pacific railroads extend through this place, and it is on the projected route of the Poway, Elsinore & San Diego Railroad. Early transportation facilities, however, are more promisingly foreshadowed in the survey now being made via Poway to Escondido in the interest of the Pacific Beach Railroad and in the application of Governor Murray for terminal facilities in San Diego for a proposed line whose preferred route is indicated by his previous attempt to purchase the Pacific Beach Railroad. Should this result in the not improbable connection with the Utah coal fields, the ability to procure cheap fuel may be looked upon as likely to lead to the establishment of smelting works at this point for the reduction of the deposit of fine iron ore known to exist on the edge of the valley.

In common with many other localities Poway developed a town site during the excitement of the now much disparaged boom. But, unlike many other such attempts, this one, known as Piermont, answers a natural demand and has demonstrated its natural right to an existence and a name, by its concentration and control of the business facilities of the community in whose geographical center it is located. Telephone and postoffice with mail by daily stage lines between San Diego and Escondido afford ready communication with the outside world. A general and drug store, large and well equipped hotel, the Terrace, of admirable location, public hall, livery stable and blacksmith shop, furnish customary conveniences.

WINCHESTER.

On September 27, 1886, the ground was surveyed for a town site at the only station on the Santa Fé line between Perris and San Jacinto, from which towns it is almost equidistant. This is Winchester, lying in Pleasant valley, and it was first known under the name of Rock House, from an old building near by. The present town contains some 200 inhabitants, industrious, intelligent, and godly citizens. As the name of the valley would indicate, this is a desirable locality for a town.

Winchester is a shipping point for wheat and barley; 200,000 sacks of grain were shipped thence during 1889. There is a nice church building, and the fund is voted for building a school-house. A fine brick business block has just been finished, and the town boasts two warehouses. There is also a hotel, a store, a blacksmith shop, a tin shop, a feed stable, and a wagon shop. Two physicians are among the residents. Good water is found in abundance twelve to sixteen feet below the surface.

PINICATE.

This little town, on the line of the California Southern, is ten miles west of Winchester. It is a railway station, with postoffice, daily mail, two stores, blacksmith and wagon shop, and a photograph gallery, to a population of some 400. There is a good public school, and a fine, recently-erected school-house, which cost $1,800. Farther west on the California Southern is

PERRIS.

A promising new town, sixteen miles southeast of Riverside, and about the same distance from San Jacinto, almost west, which was first settled in 1882, and soon began to prosper. In 1883 the California Southern Railroad was completed past this point, and in 1888 the San Jacinto Branch Railway. The altitude is 1,300 feet. Perris valley is some twenty miles long, by five to seven miles wide; this is an almost level valley, with abundant water to be had by boring five to forty feet. It is highly arable, and yields heavily wheat and barley. The lower end of the valley is called Menifee; and Spring and Pleasant and several other large valleys extend south and southeastward. To the westward are several good gold mines, including the Good Hope, the Virginia, and several other deposits of mineral wealth, $175,000 having been taken from the Good Hope by a former owner. Perris proper contains only some 250 inhabitants, but the district is thickly settled with an agricultural population; some of these farmers plow furrows a mile and a quarter long, on the tracts they obtained from the Government less than seven years since, and there is a notable general disposition to beautify their homes by planting about them pretty gardens; and this may safely be called a refined and intelligent community. The town has a fine, large, brick school-house, two good church buildings, two hotels, a very large general supply store, a good grocery and provision store, a hardware store, and a good physician, a drug­store, two milling establishments, two black­smith shops, two livery and feed stables, a meat market, and a saloon. The owners of the large steam barley rolling-mill are considered the heaviest buyers and shippers of grain in San Diego County. There are also a brickyard and lumber and stock yard, and two large warehouses.

Running yet farther southward on the branch line toward Oceanside, after passing Cañon Siding some miles, is found the remarkable little town of

MURRIETTA.

The Murrietta portion of the Temecula Rancho contains about 15,000 acres, some 14,000 of which were purchased from J. Murrietta by a corporation known as the Temecula Land & Water Company. Of this tract, about 5,000 acres consists of valley land, about 6,000 acres of mesa or plateau land, and about 4,000 acres of mountain or high land. The company proceeded to subdivide their tract, and placed it on the market during the autumn of 1884. This section is twenty miles from the coast, seventy-five miles from San Diego and ninety miles from Los Angeles. The California Southern Railway had been completed since 1881, but its trains passed through the valley without stopping, until the town site of Murrietta was laid out. Lands were sold readily, and the future of the town was soon firmly established. The town site was named after its former owner, J. Murrietta, who had resided upon the land since 1875. Its elevation is 1,090 feet. Its good water, cheap fuel, fine soil, and healthful climate make it a model colony.

The present water supply in the Murrietta valley is obtained from surface wells, five to twenty feet deep. The water is absolutely free from impurities, and is sufficient in quantity for all present practical purposes. If at any future time a greater supply should be required a great abundance of pure mountain water can be obtained from the Santa Rosa mountains, just west, bordering the valley, whence it can be brought at a nominal cost through a system of reservoirs in the foothills, and piped down to every garden, grove, lawn and fountain in the valley, and that with a power sufficient to raise it to the housetops. Hot water also can be piped from the celebrated Temécula Hot Springs, three and a half miles distant, to every house in the lower valley. Artesian water can be obtained, if desired, at a depth of 200 to 300 feet; one artesian well in the town site, sunk to the depth of 152 feet, furnishes a limited supply of pure, good water; but as the water has never been needed, no others have been put down. The rainfall for the past five years in the Murrietta valley has been twenty-two inches every season, and the colonists have relied upon this water supply. The climate here is perhaps different from that of all other parts of Southern California. It has four well-defined seasons,—spring, summer, autumn and winter. The average temperature in summer is 82°, and the average winter temperature 33°. During the summer months, the atmosphere is tempered by the sea-breeze, to such an extent that but little discomfort is felt during the most extreme hot weather; while during the winter, the few cold days and nights with slight frost and ice gives rest to plant life and energy to the human constitution. No flagging spirits caused here by climatic forces, but on the contrary, energy and activity are inspired by every change of season. The soil is adapted to fruit and vine culture and diversified agriculture, a large quantity of cereals and general produce being shipped from the Murietta station. The output for 1889 amounted to over 100 car-loads of grain (wheat and barley), 200 car-loads of wheat, barley and alfalfa hay; and several car-loads of hogs, poultry, eggs, honey, various sorts of vegetables, wool and hides. The fruit yield from the young orchards coming into bearing was more than was needed for home consumption, and it will be an item of export for the future.

Apples, pears, quinces, peaches, nectarines, apricots, prunes, plums and cherries are grown, all of excellent quality. All deciduous trees set out at two to three years old bear the second year thereafter. Those set out in 1885 have all borne a profitable crop in 1889. Orange trees on the mesa are thriving, as also English walnuts in orchards lately planted.

The population of the town and neighborhood is about 800, and it is rapidly increasing. The society is excellent, being intelligent and cultured. Among the material evidences of prosperity are: a first-class hotel, with a good table and excellent service; railroad station, express and telegraph offices; a good school­house, a good church building, a drug store, jewelry store and barber shop, saddle and harness shop, blacksmith shop and several stores which supply the greater portion of the Temécula country with general merchandise, this being the business center. There are also many fine residences, and there is published a weekly newspaper, the Valley Union. This locality, like most others of Southern California, has suffered from the reaction following the " boom times," which, in 1887, sent the prices of land in the valley up to balloon figures. The feeling of the more substantial portion of the community was always adverse to this extravagant speculation, and attempted to keep the prices down to a practical basis, and land values at present are actually lower than at any time during the history of the colony, lands suitable for raising fruits, vines or alfalfa being purchasable at from $7 to $50 per acre, and good orange land at proportionate figures. The present residents of the valley are now mostly out of debt, and even "forehanded," being self-supporting, prosperous and happy.

ELSINORE.

This colony lies on the line of the California Southern Railway, eighty-seven and a half miles from San Diego, twenty miles south of Riverside, thirty-seven miles south of San Bernardino, and ninety miles east of Los Angeles. It is on the old Laguna rancho, so named from the lake or lagoon around which lie the 10,000 acres of the tract, being the largest lake in the county, and five by two miles in area.

This ranch was bought, subdivided and placed upon the market in 1884, by Graham, Collier & Heald, long before the " boom" days of 1887–'88, and became an established progressive community. The early settlers were calm, conservative-minded men, and established themselves here upon testimonials of the soil itself, the rich, moist land near the lake, and the warm, sandy soil of the higher mesa, being adapted to every variety of fruits and vegetables; and to-day the fruit-producing qualities of the soil and climate are no longer an experiment, and each year adds to the acreage thus planted. The citizens of the colony have lately organized an irrigation district, under the Wright act, which adds greater inducement and stimulus to the fruit producer.

Aside from the store of wealth in the tillable soil, the hills and mountains around add to their service of shelter and protection to the valley, an abundant store of mineral wealth in mines of coal, clay, asbestos, lime, rock, etc., furnishing labor to large forces of men, and establishing a permanent basis of trade between mechanic, merchant and farmer, while the fame-deserving hot mineral springs and the salubrious climate attract many of those transient tourists and invalids Upon whom many other places have been wholly dependent, and contribute their quota to the general prosperity of the town and colony. To-day Elsinore has established herself as the leading town and colony of northern San Diego County, and by far the most important railway station between the city of San Diego and Riverside. The shipments are often as much as two cars a day of hay, coal, fire-clay and manufactured sewer-pipe and pottery-ware, fire-bricks, building blocks, etc:, and always far exceed the receipts or incoming freight.

The town of Elsinore is situated one and one-half miles from the railroad station, in an alcove on the shore of the lake by the same name, which precludes a view of the town from the station, but elegant and comfortable hacks are provided by the hotels, and are in waiting at each train.

The town has just passed its first anniversary as an incorporated city of the sixth class, having in the time made many municipal improvements in the streets and parks, tending to the comfort and welfare of its citizens.

The town supports two banks, three hotels and two elegant and well-arranged bath houses, two drug stores, one hardware, two grocery, two dry-goods and one large general store, besides a plumber, two milliners, meat shops, blacksmith shops and other industries demanded by the community. The city has a well regulated water system, supplying pure mountain water.

There are in the town of Elsinore two schools and one large school building, five church organizations, and two elegant brick church buildings, and others in contemplation. As before stated, Elsinore colony and city are growing communities, some of the most substantial improvements above named having been made within the last year, and that speaks volumes for any community in southern California. There are within the radius of the Elsinore colony three other schools and two churches, and four other towns or trade centers, the most important of which are Wildomar and Terra Cotta City, these each having a postoffice and trading facilities. At the latter place are located extensive sewer-pipe works, three miles to the northwest of Elsinore City. This valley is easily reached by rail from San Diego, San Bernardino or Los Angeles, being on the direct line of railroad between the two former cities, with a daily train service.

The Chaney coal mine near Elsinore is beginning to attract much attention. It is owned by Madison Chaney, the original discoverer, D. M. Graham, of South Pasadena, and William Collier, of San Diego.

Before the discovery of this coal, not a single joint of salt-glazed, vitrified sewer-pipe was manufactured on this coast. To-day large factories are in operation, deriving their clay also from this locality. The works at Elsinore are operated by coal from this mine, and their steam power is by far the cheapest in Southern California. This coal is also used in the kilns for burning the ware, with the addition of some stronger coal at the last to fix the glazing. Millions of tons of fire-clay are found with the coal, and will prove an important element. It is now used in the manufacture of sewer-pipe at Elsinore and Los Angeles, being the material from which is made the fire-brick lining the kilns at both places. It is also used for making fire­proof paint and boiler covering, by the J. D. Hoff Asbestos Company of San Diego. The coal vein is from four and a-half to seven feet thick, and the mine can furnish 150 tons daily, with development of more if required. While not of the best quality, this is good coal, and it is expected the grade will improve with development. It is used in the Good Hope mine, and in the railway shops at San Bernardino.

Another important and valuable mineral resource of this district is the asbestos industry, which is being developed by the John D. Hoff Asbestos Company of San Diego. No better illustration of its value to the county could be supplied than the work that is now being done by the company at Governor Waterman's mines at Julian. In the first place the raw material was taken from its natural location, near Elsinore, was brought to the works of the company at Pacific Beach, and having been converted into the manufactured article, is now being applied to its various uses at the mines mentioned, in each instance giving employment to many men, and keeping the money within the county. The huge boilers and steam pipes is being made for that purpose, every building is being painted with the asbestos paint and, indeed, wherever an opportunity offers itself to utilize the products of the company, no matter in what form it may be, advantage is taken of it. The principal uses to which the asbestos is put are in the manufacture of house and roof paints, boiler and steam-pipe covering, fireproof roofing and asbestos stone lining cement. In all the company has ten asbestos locations, namely: The King, Elsinore, Jumbo, Kate M., and Joseph mines at or near Elsinore, and the Murray mines and extensions, comprising five locations, on the Colorado desert. The construction of the branch line from the Elsinore mines to that of the California Southern Railroad, will, of course, greatly facilitate the operations of the company in transhipping the raw material to their factory. The only long-fibre asbestos mines on the continent west of the Rocky mountains, is located in the Elsinore district. Its value, of course, cannot be accurately determined, but many tempting offers have been made for it. It is owned by this company. Some very fine specimens of this long-fibre asbestos are on exhibition in the offices of the company on Fifth street, where a very interesting cabinet of San Diego County mineral specimens is also to be seen. The asbestos at the Elsinore locations is very plentiful, and is now being taken out in open cuts, but it is the intention of the company, this spring, to sink experimental shafts on the desert locations for the purpose of ascertaining the extent of the deposits.

Besides the elements already named, there are here no less than 183 mineral springs, ranging from almost boiling heat to icy coldness, and varying as much in their elements as in their temperature. Their medicinal properties are already becoming famous, and for the invalids who seek to profit by their virtues the managers of the colony lands have caused the construction of a large, comfortable bathing-house and other conveniences. Elsinore has shown something of her agricultural potentialities by her exhibits at county displays of products, and by the section's yield during the year of 1889, which produced 2,000 centals of wheat, 3,000 centals of barley, 60 tons of dried and 12,000 pounds of canned fruits. The water supply is abundant; besides that available for irrigation from wells and from the San Jacinto river, a great increase may be had by means of tunnels through the high hills across the lake.

WILDOMAR.

In 1885, the same parties who had laid out Elsinore, founded, five miles further southeastward, on the line of the California Southern Railway, the village of Wildomar. This is a beautiful and thriving village, well-watered, and on soil admirably adapted for citrus fruit-growing. It has a good school, and good churches, the Presbyterian and the Society of Friends owning church buildings. There is a mail twice daily, a blacksmith and wagon-maker, and three stores carrying general merchandise. The people are industrious and sober.

ENCINITAS AND VICINITY.

The section of San Diego County known as Encinitas contains about 25,000 acres of land and lies twenty-eight miles north of San Diego, bounded on the south by the San Dieguito river, on the north by the Agua Hedionda Ranch, on the east by a rocky range of hills that form the western boundaries of the San Marcos and Escondido valleys, and on the west by the majestic Pacific, from off whose bosom the never ceasing mild, yet invigorating breezes blow.

The name Encinitas (little oaks) is derived from the Los Encinitas Rancho, now the property of the Kimball Brothers, but during the Spanish regime the home of one of those famous and hospitable Spanish pioneers, who have almost passed away into the dim past. The writer has been told that in early days the ranch house grounds made one of the loveliest spots in the county, with its orange and banana groves, and that many love tales and reminiscences of the place still linger in the minds of the old Spanish señoras.

But that romantic age did not long withstand the money-making era that has displaced nearly all those old seats of Spanish occupation.

In 1881 the building of the California Southern Railroad aroused attention to this hitherto neglected section, and attracted home-seekers, and before 1884 all the available government land was taken up by an enterprising class of people, who amid many difficulties soon began changing the brush jungle into cultivated fields and orchards.

In 1883 a small town site was laid out on the banks of the ocean, the Cottonwood creek running through it, which contains an abundant water supply, and the nucleus of our present town was started; the first on the line of the railroad. A postoffice was soon established, and this was followed by an express and telegraph office along with other accessories of civilization, until now the town contains about eighty buildings and a population of 150 people, two hotels, three general stores, drug store, livery stables, blacksmith shop, weekly newspaper, etc., but no saloons.

Contrary to most southern California settlements, the surrounding country is ahead of the town, and quite a number of auxiliary settlements have sprung up around Encinitas, having postoffices and stores of their own. Merle, Merrigan and Olivenhain may be classed among these, Encinitas being their railroad shipping point.

The settlement of Merle is about two years old, and has made a splendid growth and development within that time, a number of gentlemen of wealth and culture having located there and are building nice homes.

It will not be amiss to say that the Merle Horticultural Society of this district is the proud possessor of the Los Angeles District Fair blue ribbon for the "best table beets," and that nearly all of the first and second prizes for the best "corn display" at the late Escondido Fair were proudly borne away by this section.

Olivenhain was settled about five years ago by a German colony, but internal dissensions and wrangles kept development back for a time. Now some thirty families have prosperous and happy homes in the fertile valley of the San Elijo, where they farm for profit.

The soil is principally a heavy, sandy loam, very fertile, easily cultivated, bountiful in its returns, and when properly cultivated, very retentive of moisture. Fully two-thirds of the area of this district is perfectly frostless, and is adapted to the cultivation of the lemon, olive or fig.

The climate is as near perfection as it is possible to find, averaging sixty-five degrees the year round. Records kept for the past nine years show the lowest temperature in the town to be thirty-nine degrees, and the highest ninety-eight degrees, and that for only an hour or two during an east or desert wind. In the valleys and wet lowlands the temperature falls lower and rises higher.

The principal crops raised have been beans, corn, wheat, barley, sorghum and hay. Thirty bushels of wheat to the acre is the average yield, and thirty-two bushels the best. Forty bushels of barley to the acre is the common yield, with clean, bright grains that will yield 120 pounds to the sack. Corn is the staple among the cereals, and ninety bushels to the acre is no uncommon yield, while 103 bushels is the best record this year. Sorghum has been tested somewhat, and has proved a success, the syrup being of fine flavor and finding a ready sale at remunerative prices; the yield is about 100 gallons to the acre, at an average price of 75 cents per gallon, or $75 per acre.

Vegetables all do well, but market gardening has not been tried to any great extent. Deciduous fruits do well, particularly figs and apples. The citrus fruits have not yet been well tested, but there is a considerable area of the district well adapted to the orange. Grapes flourish, as do also berries, particularly the strawberry.

All of the crops, trees and vines mentioned, except berries, have been grown without irrigation, but our people are keenly alive to the necessity of having an ample supply of water, and are anxiously awaiting the completion of the Pamo or San Luis Rey reservoirs.

AGUA HEDIONDA.

This rancho, slightly north of east of Escondido, is the property of Robert Kelly, who, devoting it to stock-raising, has it entirely under fence. This tract contains good vineyard land, and may soon be brought into cultivation.

ESCONDIDO.

This, " the Hidden valley," was formerly known as the Wolfskill Ranch, or Rincon del Diablo—" the Devil's Corner." It is a part of the San Marcos region, and comprises 13,000 acres, well adapted to the culture of grain, alfalfa, citrus and deciduous fruits and grapes. The soil is deep and rich, and mostly of the decomposed granite variety, so desirable for orchard land.

In 1885 Escondido was purchased by a syndicate of San Diego capitalists, who at once instituted an admirable class of enterprises. They laid off a town site, villa tracts, and small holdings for orchards, farms and vineyards. They built a $25,000 hotel, and a $10,000 school-house; the University of Southern California erected a $50,000 college; there are fine brick churches, one of which cost $7,500; a large brick bank block, with a public hall containing a good stage; a number of business houses, carrying large stocks; water-works and street railway. No saloons exist in this model colony town, owing to a clause in the deed of conveyance which forbids the sale of liquors on the grounds purchased. A great flume is in process of construction. There is telephone connection with San Diego and other points.

The Central Railroad, to connect with the California Southern at Oceanside, running from San Diego via El Cajon, Poway and Escondido, was begun over two years since. The population is 800 to 1,000 and constantly increasing. In the near vicinity are many points of historical interest. The enterprise displayed in its founding, its location, its salubrious climate, and its resources, make Escondido a point with an assured future.

During the past season Escondido exported eighty tons of raisins, graded as A No. 1 in the New York markets. They netted to their producers from $65 to $108 per acre on unirrigated land. Among other shipments from Escondido the past season were 720,000 pounds of honey; 650,000 pounds of wheat; 11,000 sacks of oats; 8,722 sacks of barley; 625 sacks of corn, and 515 cords of wood.

OCEANSIDE.

Only some four years old, Oceanside has made most remarkable growth. It lies on the coast, at the mouth of the San Luis Rey river, forty miles northwest of San Diego, and some four miles from the old Mission of San Luis Rey. Here is the junction of the Santa Ana branch of the California Southern Railway, and here the terminus of the San Diego Central, via El Cajon, Poway and Escondido, and it is on the surveyed line of the extension of the Southern Pacific. Behind it stretches the great and rich San Luis Rey valley, whose fertile fruit and farming country promise a large future interior trade, already so far toward realization that various San Diego merchants have found it profitable to establish there branch business houses.

Oceanside is the natural southern port and outlet for San Bernardino, Riverside, San Jacinto, and the rest of the immediate country to the northward. It is also the natural outlet for the fine valley traversed by the Escondido branch of the railway, which embraces Buena, San Marcos, and Escondido. It is the western outlet for the San Luis Rey valley, containing 20,000 acres of the richest land in California; a section rapidly filling up with thrifty people, who contribute largely to commerce. Moreover, to Oceanside is tributary all the country southward, as far as Encinitas.

The Oceanside postoffice is the distributing office for Escondido and all the country tributary to that point, and hence it has become quite an important item in the postoffice service. Mr. Weitzel, the postmaster, had to report for the year ending September 30, 1889, a money-order business of $13,000, besides a good business in stamps, box rents, etc.

The original town site was on section 22, being a sheep range occupied in 1862 by A. J. Myers, to whom a patent was issued in 1883. The site now embraces three additional sections-23, 26 and 27.

A city charter was adopted in July, 1888. The inhabitants are between 600 and 700, and they are for the most part of a high order of worth, and moreover very enterprising and aggressive in a business sense. Large neighboring tracts are being opened up and piped to water by the San Luis Rey Water Company, which is one of the most notable institutions of the city. This organization is opening up a vast field of back country territory, making to bloom land hitherto regarded as almost worthless, and greatly increasing the value of land already under cultivation, by piping water to hundreds of thousands of acres. Besides this, the company purposes to furnish power for manufacturing purposes, utilizing for electric currents the power of their immense sluice-ways, through which the water falls for hundreds of feet; and thence they will convey the power to factories, grist-mills, canning-houses, etc. Hydraulic engineers say that this company will have 65,000 horse-power available. And whereas by the cost of fuel it now costs about $100 for every horse-power used of mechanical power, the new enterprise will be enabled to furnish power at one-fourth that rate. This little seaside city already has various robust and flourishing manufactories, and industries which would be creditable to any long established settlement.

The Russ Lumber and Mill Company has done business here since Oceanside started. It has furnished lumber for nearly every house in the city. It carries a full line of all kinds of lumber, including sash, blinds, mouldings, etc. Since the boom, trade has been mainly with the surrounding towns and ranches tributary to Oceanside. The country trade increases every year.

The Oceanside Mill Company is an institution of which the city may well be proud. It manufactures sash, blinds, doors, boxes, etc.; carries a full line of wood working machinery, and does all kinds of wood-work for house furnishing. It does a large business in bee material, including hives, boxes, etc. At one time this year the mill ran for two months on this branch of the business alone. Here tanks are manufactured for all the surrounding country, from Oceanside to Smith Mountain. In connection with the planing-mill, there is a grist­mill department, where feed of all kinds is ground; also cornmeal and graham flour. Feed and cornmeal are shipped to San Diego and other places by the car-load. Custom work is done for people in Fallbrook, Escondido, Encinitas and other points.

In the grist-mill business there is a competitor in the Carter & Martin Milling Company. This firm has lately put in operation a new steam engine. They roll barley and crack corn to order. They also manufacture cornmeal and graham flour. They have an extensive trade from all the surrounding country, and ship by the ton, to many points on the railroad. They are also contractors and builder:, and manufacture mouldings, brackets, etc.

The Oceanside Fish Company are keeping their city prominently before the people of Los Angeles and San Bernardino. They began a few months ago, in a small way, to experiment at catching and selling fish. In both departments they have been successful. They catch anywhere from 500 to 2,500 pounds at a haul. One firm in Los Angeles offers to take all they can catch at 5 cents per pound. It is impossible for them to supply half of the orders they receive from Los Angeles and San Bernardino.

To help supply the demand for Oceanside fish, a Chinese company has been organized. They have built their own boat and manufactured their own nets, and propose, from the wealth of the ocean, to contribute to the wealth of Oceanside. There are millions of dollars in the fishing business on the Pacific coast, because it is possible to fish twelve months in the year here, and only seven on the Atlantic coast.

The Bank of Oceanside has contributed its full share to the prosperity of the city. The bank building itself would do credit to a city of 50,000 inhabitants. The cashier, E. S. Payne, is a gentleman of large experience, and people in the city or country who do business with him, invariably return. D. H. Horne, president, and the directors are among the most progressive and reliable men of the community. The business done by the banking institutions of a city is always an index of its prosperity or adversity. As the Bank of Oceanside has taken in and paid out over its counters the past year over $1,000,000, it is very fair evidence that Oceanside is not dead. This institution makes collections from any part of the Union, and transfers money to all parts of the United States and foreign countries.

The two nurseries of the city draw people from all the surrounding towns for trees, plants and shrubs. They have never been able to supply more than half the demand there is for nursery stock.

There are three stores for groceries and general merchandise. They all report business good and growing better. The summer visitors, the hotel and railroad business and the increasing number of thrifty ranchers in the country about Oceanside all contribute to make the store business a success.

The dry-goods store reports that business has been good all through the year, but very much increased in volume towards its close. The same firm established in June, 1889, what is known as the Oceanside Warehouse, an institution which is a great benefit to all this section. They handled this season 80,000 sacks of grain. They have sold 3,000 sacks of White Australian seed wheat to the farmers in this vicinity. They state that the Oceanside wharf will undoubtedly be finished by August 1, and when this is done they propose to ship their grain direct from here to San Francisco, thus saving $2 per ton on freight. The material necessary to complete the wharf is here, and the stockholders propose to carry the work forward as rapidly as possible.

A thong the other business enterprises of this most enterprising little city may be mentioned two excellent hotels and one or two restaurants. One of the hotel buildings cost nearly $70,000. There are two drug-stores, two livery stables, a millinery house, two boot and shoe shops, two blacksmiths, a hardware store, a harness shop, a furniture and undertaking establishment, a bakery, a barber shop and various other enterprises, including three real-estate agents, who report three times as many purchasers for acre property as there were a year since. Oceanside has three skillful medical practitioners, three good lawyers, and a flourishing newspaper. The schools are well organized and ably administered.

The churches in Oceanside are well represented. There are six organized religious bodies: Christian, Congregational, Baptist, Episcopal, Holiness and Methodist. The Episcopal and Methodist have no church building as yet, but they are planning to build in the near future. The attendance upon religious services during the past year has been better than in any other year during the history of the city.

Transcribed by Kathy Sedler.