Santa Cruz County History
HISTORY OF SANTA CRUZ COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.- E. S. Harrison, Pacific Press Publ. Co., San Francisco, 1891
CHAPTER II.
THE EARLY HISTORY OF SANTA CRUZ COUNTY.
BY E. L. WILLIAMS.
THE publisher of this work in his opening remarks has referred to the probable discovery of this side of the American continent in the fourth century by some Buddhist monks who taught the doctrine of Buddha, and possibly laid the foundation of the Aztec civilization, which is somewhat authenticated from a report of an expedition, made in the year 1541, to the Gulf of California and its mouth. The report says that "along the coast they saw ships with gold and silver eagles (dragon heads) at their bows, and concluded they may have come from Cathay (or China) by the signs they made."
The earliest knowledge we have of the Bay of Monterey, on the north shore of which is situated the city of Santa Cruz, is the report made by the earliest Spanish navigator, Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo, an interesting account of which is published by the "Hackluyt Society" of London. Cabrillo sailed from Acapulco on the twenty-seventh day of June, 1542, having been absent nearly ten months, during which time he sailed along the coast northward from Acapulco to Cape Mendocino, which he discovered and named in honor of the then viceroy of Spain. In this extract only so much of the account of his voyage is given as relates to the discovery of the Bay of Monterey which, however, he names the Bay of Pines. Cabrillo, in his log book, or diary, says :‑--
"On Friday following, which was the sixteenth day of November, 1542, when day dawned we found ourselves at the entrance of a very large bay that appeared to have an anchorage and a river emptying into it [Salinas River]. We then lay off and on that day and night until the next day, but did not discover a sheltered place, nor did we see, any river, but in order to take possession we did so by anchoring in twenty-three fathoms. We did not attempt a landing, because of a heavy sea. This is in the thirty-ninth degree of north latitude. The shore is covered with pine trees down to the sea, and we gave it the name Bay of Pines, or Pine Bay."
It will be observed that Cabrillo did not enter the bay or he would have found the harbor, afterwards called the Port of Monterey, and had he coasted the shore of the bay would have seen entering into it the stream that at a later time was given the name of Salinas River. He probably stood on the south side of Point Pinos (Pine Point), saw a rocky coast and heavy sea, and then dropped his anchor to take possession, as was the mode in those days, and afterwards continued his journey to the north along the coast.
For sixty years there is a lapse of any attempt to discover any new shores pertaining to the coast of California, until in the year 1599, on the 27th of September, a royal order was forwarded from Spain, by King Phillip III, to the Count of Monterey, then his viceroy of New Spain, now called Mexico. The order required the count to undertake a new discovery and settlement in California, with all possible vigor. The viceroy appointed for commander in chief Sebastian Vizcaino, who, through his zeal for the royal commands, neglected nothing which would contribute to the security and advantage of the enterprise.
On the fifth day of May, 1602, Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco harbor with two ships, a frigate and a small bark, and took an accurate view of the coast as far as Cape Mendocino. Before he came to this latter place, he discovered a large harbor near Pine Point, with everything that could be desired, for the security of ships, and, in honor of the viceroy by whom he had been sent, he named it Port of Monterey. He returned to Acapulco on the twenty-first day of March, 1603, having been absent a little more than ten months. I quote as follows from Vizcaino's report during the voyage:—
"The ships found themselves near a very high and white ridge of mountains, but reddish toward the skirts, covered with woods. This they called the Santa Lucia Range. This is the usual landmark of ships coming from China. Four leagues from there a river falls into the sea among rocks, after a precipitate course from some high and white mountains. This river is called Carmello. Two leagues further is a noble harbor, there being between it and the said river a wood of pine trees, six miles in breadth, and at the entrance of the harbor a cape, called Point Pine."
Here, on the 16th of December, 1602, the vessel came to an anchor in order to transmit an account of the voyage to New Spain. The port was called Monterey in honor of the Count of Monterey, viceroy of New Spain, by whom the vessel had been sent on this discovery, pursuant to his majesty's order. The next day Vizcaino directed preparations to be made for the friars Andrew de la Asuncion and Antonio de la Asencion to accompany the voyage, that they might say mass during their stay there. The altar was erected under a large oak close to the seaside, and within twenty paces of it were some springs; affording plenty of excellent water. After mass, it was moved in the council to consider the means for transmitting an account to the viceroy of their discovery and proceedings. All the ship's company were extremely sickly, so that scarcely one was in perfect health, and very few able to do duty. The master of the flagship and his mate were not able to stir themselves in their beds, and the master and mate of the captain's vessel could hardly stand on the deck. A great number of the sailors, soldiers, and boys were very ill, and sixteen had died before their arrival in this port. It was now resolved that the admiral's boat should be sent home under the admiral, Toribie Gomez de Corvan, and the pilots, Pasqual and Balthasar, with the sick, should be sent in her to New Spain, with a number of sailors sufficient to carry her to Acapulco, and the remainder should be turned over to the captain's vessel and tender. Likewise, what provisions there were on board the admiral's vessels, besides a plentiful allowance for their voyage, should also be put on board these two ships. These resolutions being taken, a general order was issued, to be executed with the utmost dispatch, and every particular concerning the discoveries was inscribed in a chart to be sent with a letter to the viceroy, a re-inforcement being at the same time requested, in order to make a perfect discovery to the entrance of California. (For a long time it was supposed there was a wide strait, which was called the entrance to California, terminating at Cape Mendocino and the Gulf of California, and the land lying between it and the Pacific Ocean forming a large island.) Accordingly the sick, together with Father Thomas de Aquino, were put on board the admiral ship, and, everything being ready for departure, the seamen were ordered on board, and, on the 29th of December, they sailed out of the harbor.
An account of the voyage was written by Antonio de la Asencion, a Carmellite of the barefooted order.
To return to the harbor of Monterey, where the captain's vessel and tender remained, I quote further as follows:---
"They took in wood and water. This is an excellent harbor and secure against all winds. Near the shore are an infinite number of very large pines, straight and smooth, likewise oaks of proper size for building ships. Here also are rose trees, firs, willows, and poplars, large clear lakes, fine pasture and arable lands; wild beasts, particularly bears of an uncommon size, are found here, and a species of horned cattle resembling buffalo, about the same size, others as large as wolves, and shaped like stags, with skins resembling those of pelicans, with long necks and horns on their heads as large as those of stags, their tails being a yard in length and a half a yard in breadth, and their hoofs cloven like those of an ox. The country also abounds in deer, rabbits, hares, and wild-cats, buzzards, geese, ducks, pigeons, partridges, thrushes, sparrows, goldfinches; cranes and vultures are also found here, with another kind of bird the size of a turkey, and the largest seen during the whole voyage, being seventeen spans from the tip of one wing to that of the other. Along the coast are great numbers of gulls, cormorants, crows, and seafowl. In the rocks are a great number of cavities in which are found a large shellfish, with conque shell equal to the finest mother of pearl (aulon, the Indian name, or sea-ear, haliotis).
"The sea abounds with oysters, lobsters, crabs, etc., also sea wolves and whales. This harbor is surrounded with villages of Indians, a well-looking, affable people and very ready to part with everything they have. They are also under some form of government. Their weapons are bows and arrows. They expressed a great deal of concern when they perceived the Spaniards were going to leave them, which happened on the 3d of January, 1603, when the captain's vessel and tender sailed out of the harbor."
From this port Vizcaino sailed for Point Reyes, where a vessel had been wrecked on her way from the Philippine Islands, in 1595, and had on board a large quantity of wax, and several chests of silk. Vizcaino was desirous of putting in there, to see if there remained any vestiges of the ship or cargo. A few years ago I was shown by Dr. Anderson, of Santa Cruz (a contributor to this volume), quite a lump of wax, which had been white, and still was, inside; its exterior was blackened very much, and had upon it Spanish marks. Dr. Anderson procured it from a man who had dug it up in the sands of the coast some distance north of Point Reyes, and had brought it to Santa Cruz. The inference is that it is a portion of the wax that was lost in the wreck of 1595. This inference is supported by the fact that wax is imperishable, except by heat.
After the departure of Vizcaino the next record of interest relating to the Bay of Monterey is to be found in a decree of King Phillip the Third of Spain, dated the nineteenth day of August, 1606, something more than three years after the expedition of Vizcaino sailed out of the bay. In this decree, which is given in its entirety, the reader will observe that the voyage and discoveries made by Vizcaino in 1602-03 are first recounted. Note is also made of the reason why the Spanish Government took so much interest in discovering a port upon this coast. The fear of being molested by pirates and enemies, a desire to have a half-way port, where their vessels might put in for repairs, and recruit the crew from that much-dreaded disease, scurvy, for which no name in those days was known, were some of the reasons for making Monterey a resting-place. It was also advised that other seamen learn the route from the Philippine Islands, so that in future vessels would put into Monterey to recruit, preparatory to continuing the voyage to Acapulco. The most remarkable matter in the royal decree is, perhaps, the fact that thereby we learn that the existence of gold and silver in California was not for the American population to discover, not even Marshall, for, behold, it was well known to the Spanish Government about two hundred years before he was born. Thus is verified the old adage, "There is nothing new under the sun." The writer of this regrets that he has not been able to find any account of the contemplated voyage, and believes that it did not take place, for when Padre Junipero Serra landed in Monterey, he performed mass, and, in allusion to the service, remarks that "the altar was erected on the spot occupied by Vizcaino when he discovered Monterey in the year 1602. "
DECREE OF KING PHILLIP III.
By the King, Don Pedro de Acunwa. Knight of the Order of St. John, my Governor and Captain General of the Philippine Islands and President of my royal audience there.
You are hereby given to understand that Don Luis de Velasco, my late viceroy in New Spain, in regard to the great distance between the Port of Acapulco and those islands, the fatigue, hardship, and danger of that voyage, for want of a port where the ships might put in, and provide themselves with water, wood, and masts, and other things of absolute necessity, determined to make a discovery, and maps, with observations of the harbors along the coast from New Spain to these islands, and ordered this service to be performed in a ship called the San Augustine (was wrecked near the entrance to San Francisco, in 1595), the loss of which at that time prevented the said discovery, and the Count de Monterey, who succeeded him in that government, having the same opinion of the inconveniences of that voyage, and the same zeal for removing the difficulties by pursuing the discovery intended by Don Luis de Velasco, wrote to me concerning it, and was of opinion that small vessels from the harbor of Acapulco were the fittest, and that in the discovery might be included the coasts and bays of the Gulf of California and of the fisheries for pearls; to which in my letters of the 27th of September, 1599, I ordered to be answered that the discovery and making maps with observations of that coast and bays along it, having appeared to me highly convenient it was my will he should immediately put it in execution, without troubling himself about that of California, unless occasionally.
Agreeably to this, he appointed for the conduct of the enterprise, Sebastian Vizcaino as an experienced navigator, particularly acquainted with the voyage in question, and in whom he placed entire confidence, and, having furnished him with two ships and a tender, well provided with all necessaries for a year, he immediately embarked with a suitable number of seamen and soldiers, and an able cosmographer, skilled in making maps in order that the ports and places discovered might be set down with the greatest clearness and accuracy. Having with him orders and instructions how he was to proceed, and what he was to do, he put to sea from Acapulco harbor on the 5th of May, 1602, according to the advice sent me by the said Count de Monte Rey and Sebastian Vizcaino, who, after several letters, the last of which was on the last day of April, 1605, informed me that he had been eleven months on the voyage, and that from the same harbor he had begun to sound and take draughts off the coast, harbors, creeks, and bays as far as the 27th degree, with all necessary precision and exactness, and that from 26 to 45 he did no more than keep within sight of land, so that he was not able to make such particular observations as he had done till the 27th degree. Soon after many of his people fell sick, and, the weather being very unfavorable, he could only observe that the coast as far as 40 degrees lies northwest and southeast, and that in the other two degrees, which make up the other forty-two, it lies almost north and south. He added that between the mouth of the Gulf of California to 37 degrees he met with three very good harbors on the continent. These are: San Diego, in 32d degree, with another contiguous to it but small; that of San Diego, which is very spacious, being capable of containing navy ships, and at the same time affording both water and wood, and that the third, called Monterey, was still better and more convenient for the China galleons and for the relief of ships in their voyage to and from the Philippine Islands.
Monterey is situated in 37 degrees north latitude, and its wood and water are preferable and are in greater plenty than at the other place named. It is well sheltered from all winds, and along its shores are great numbers of pine trees fit for masts. It lies very conveniently for ships returning from the Philippine Islands to put into, thus, in case of storms, avoiding the necessity of making for Japan, as they have several times done and expending great sums of money. Besides, they usually have sight of the coasts of China, which is an additional benefit, as by knowing where they are they will not, as formerly in case of bad weather, make for Japan or those islands, as the same winds which would carry them thither, bring them into this safe harbor. They further say that the climate is mild and the country covered with trees, the soil fruitful and well peopled, and that the natives are so tractable, kind, and docile in temper that they will easily be converted to the Christian religion, and become subjects of my holy crown. Their chief subsistence is on the spontaneous products of the earth, and the flesh which they catch in hunting, of which there is a remarkable plenty. Their clothing is of the skin of sea wolves, which they have a very good method of tanning and preparing, and they have abundance of flax, hemp, and cotton.
And the aid Sebastian Vizcaino carefully informed himself of these Indians and many others whom he discovered along the coast for about eight hundred leagues, and they all told him that up the country there were large towns, and SILVER AND GOLD, whence he is inclined to believe that great riches may be discovered, especially as in some parts of the land veins of metals are to be seen, and the time of their summer being known, a further discovery might be made of them by going within the country. The remainder may be discovered along the coast as it reaches beyond 42 degrees, the limits specified to the said Sebastian Vizcaino in his instructions. He came to Japan and the coast of China and he could not return by the mouth of California, as I sent orders he should be directed, on account of a great mortality among his people, and the decay of the provisions, which obliged him to hasten his return. And the cosmographer, Andrew Garcia de Cespedes, having made his appearance in my royal council of the Indians, together with the narratives and draughts which were sent with a separate plan of each harbor of those discovered by the said Sebatian Vizcaino, and having in council heard the report of the cosmographer, and considering how much it concerns the security of ships coming from those islands (Philippine Islands), in a voyage of no less than two thousand leagues on a wide and tempestuous sea, that they should be provided with a port where they might put in and furnish themselves with water, wood, and provisions, that the said port of Monterey lies in 37 degrees, nearly half way the voyage, having all the good qualities which could be desired, it seems to me that all ships coming from those islands, as they make the coast of California, should put into this port (Monterey), and there refit and provide themselves.
In order to the beginning of a design of such utility, and that it may be publicly known, I have, by another commission of this date, ordered and directed the Marquis de Monte Carlos, my present viceroy of the said province of New Spain (Mexico), that he use all possible care and diligence to find out the said General Sebastian Vizcaino as the person who made the discovery, he having coasted all along from Acapulco to Cape Mendocino. In case he be not living, to make the like inquiry after the commander of his ship, and that, on his being found, he immediately prepare to go to those islands, taking care to carry with him his chief pilot, and that of the said commander. And that his going on this desirable service may be with all convenient dispatch, I have also ordered the said marquis that the ships which are to be sent to said islands be of the usual form hitherto used, there being little appearance that you have any ships ready of two hundred tons, as they are to be, agreeable to new orders which I have issued relating to them, on account of the shortness of time, and which nominates as commander of said ships Sebastian Vizcaino, and for his captain he who was with him at the discovery of the said port, if they are both living. In case either of them be dead, the survivor to be commander in chief, and for first pilot the person who was in that post under Sebastian Vizcaino, or under his captain, in order that, having the ships under their charge, they may at their return consider the best manner of making a settlement at the said port of Monterey, and thus introduce the touching at that port and carefully instruct the pilots and sailors on the necessary particulars of the voyage, especially two persons well qualified, whom you are hereby ordered to send from those islands with the said General Vizcaino, on his return, that they may be acquainted with the said port and may return general and commander of the ships, which are to go from Acapulco to those islands in the year 1608. Sebastian Vizcaino is to conduct the settlement of the said port, to whom and his sea captain and the two others referred to it is my will and pleasure that you in all things show all possible countenance and regard.
It is also my will that they receive the pay which other generals and commanders have received in said voyage, and that it be paid them in the usual form and manner. And that the premises may obtain the end desired, I charge you to assist and aid them with the utmost care and diligence, as I promise myself from your prudence and zeal, and that you acquaint me with what shall be performed.
Dated at San Lorenzo Real, on the 19th of August, 1606.
For some reason the port of Monterey was neglected until in the latter part of the following century, at least if it were visited there is in existence no historical record of the fact. In 1767 Charles III. of Spain made a decree expelling the Jesuits from all of his dominion, of which California was a part, and filled the vacancy made by such expulsion with priests of the order of St. Francisco. At the head of the order who was to take up the work of the Jesuits in New Spain and Lower California was the Rev. Father Junipero Serra. In 1768 the missions were placed in charge of the Franciscans. In the early part of 1769, in fact, on the 9th of January of that year, two expeditions were fitted out, one overland and one by sea, for San Diego. The land expedition was under the command of Gaspar de Portola, and was accompanied by Father Serra. They arrived in San Diego on the 1st of July. Here Father Serra rested, and Portola made his preparation for a still more northern expedition, under the instruction of Galvez, to rediscover the Bay of Monterey, which Vizcaino had left one hundred and sixty-six years before. This expedition, which left San Diego on the 14th of July, 1769, was commanded by Governor Portola, and composed of Captain Rivers and twenty-seven soldiers, Lieutenant Fages, with seven volunteers of Catalonia, Engineer Constanzio and fifteen Christian Indians from Lower California, and Fathers Crespi and Gomez. This expedition proceeded up the coast, and on the 7th of October following they camped somewhere in the vicinity of Castroville, in Monterey County. From this place we will follow them during their journey through what is now Santa Cruz County.
The subjoined is a translation of Father Crespi's diary of this part of the journey.
SATURDAY, October 7, 1769.
We gave the place where we stopped overnight the name of St. Delfina, Virgin and Spouse of Elceaso, and, leaving it about twelve o'clock in the day, we traveled leisurely a northwest course until coming to a swamp, it being a dry lagoon where were growing many malvas and other herbs. We then entered upon a wide reach of low hills, which we crossed by means of a cañon, passing by four ponds, which, with much trouble, we went around, and to do so it was necessary to extricate ourselves, we having been mired in the mud. We were three hours going six miles*, and we stopped in a dry cañon near a spring, and also near an Indian village, which from the signs we perceived the Indians had fled but a short time previous. The way appears to be better, and the land is covered with pasture. We saw at the springs many cranes, being the first we had seen in all the way we had traveled. The soldiers called the place Crane Pond and I gave it the name of St. Bridget. This night we confessed our sins, and anointed with the holy oils one of the soldiers, De Cuera (Cuera, meaning hide ; the soldiers were provided with jackets made of hide to protect them from the arrows of the Indians), who had become very sick with a disorder of the blood accompanied with swellings. (Escorbuto is the word used in the original Spanish text, and means scurvy, or some kind of similar disease.)
[*By perusing this diary it will be found that the estimate of distances is frequently greater than they are. They are simply guesses of the first white men who ever traveled over the ground, and due allowance must be made by readers familiar with the district through which they journeyed.—TRANSLATOR.]
SUNDAY, eighth day of the same month.
We held mass and administered the august sacrament to the sick one of last night, and also to another who has fallen sick. The latter was anointed with the holy oil. Notwithstanding their suffering, we carried them as well as we could, but, unfortunately, there are others suffering with the same infirmity, though not so bad as the other two, and, after performing for them the rites of the church, we left this place about eight o'clock A. M., following a northerly course by some hills, much higher than those before mentioned, and in going around them we encountered a number of ponds of greater or lesser size which compelled us to pursue a very tortuous course. We were five hours traveling twelve miles, when we arrived at an Indian village of which we had been informed by our explorers (these were a party from the expedition who kept in advance and reported from day to day in regard to the course to be pursued). We found it depopulated, much against our hopes, because when we left the pond, which we named St. Bridget, or Crane Pond, a number of arrows were sticking in the ground with tokens of peace in their cleft, indicating that the Indians were friendly. There were also on the ground at the point of the arrows many mussels that the Indians in the afternoon, or night, or day previous, had put there without giving us a chance to see them.
We were persuaded by these signals of peace we would find friends, and that we would treat with them in their villages; but the fear or timidity possessed by these poor ones, caused them to desert us and flee from us, and burn their villages as we find, a matter which we all felt sorry over, we being lonely, and desiring much to learn something of the country, and that they should accompany, the explorers on their reconnoissances, we proceeding without knowledge. We stopped at the brink of a river that was discovered by our explorers, not distant from the burnt Indian village. Adjoining and on the other side of the river was a meadow, which was beautiful to behold because of the great variety of trees and plants. There were tall oaks, live oaks, and other kinds of vegetation not known to us. We saw at this place a large bird that had been killed by the Indians, who had stuffed it with grass. To some of us it appeared to be the royal eagle. It measured from one point of the wing to the other eleven palms.
The soldiers named the stream Rio del Pajaro (Bird River), and I gave it the name of Lady St. Ana. By reason of the fog, I could not see very far.
[It will not be difficult for people familiar with this section of the country to follow the expedition in its journey through what is now Santa Cruz County. From the diary of the 7th and the 8th, the reader will perceive that they have been traveling from somewhere in the vicinity of Castroville to the Pajaro River. As they got mired in the swamp and "with difficulty extricated themselves," it is quite natural that they should endeavor to reach higher ground, hence we find in the journal a description of hills higher than those they had just passed. From the journal of Sunday, and from that of the succeeding day, it is evident that they found the Pajaro River somewhere near the place where it emerges from the mountains and the narrow cañon into the valley. It is refreshing to note with what satisfaction the journalist of the party describes what we now call the Pajaro Valley. It is apparent also that the habits of the fog coming inland, and embracing this little valley in its misty folds, if not as old as the hills, is older than history, and too old a habit to be broken up, without producing a serious cataclysm.—TRANSLATOR.]
MONDAY, ninth day of the same month.
This day we stopped travel in order to give the sick a rest, about whom we are much concerned; also that our explorers may make reconnoissances for two days' journey.
TUESDAY, tenth day of the same month. .
About eight o'clock A. M. we continued our journey to the northwest. We could not journey so far as we intended, because the sick did not get better, and each day their number is augmented by others. After going a little over three miles, over plains and extensive hills, well covered with high trees of a red-colored wood, trees not known by us—they have a very different leaf from that of the cedar, and, although the color of the wood is somewhat like it, still is different without having the cedar smell, and we find that the wood of these trees is very brittle, and they grow here in abundance, and as it is unknown to any one of the expedition, we gave it a name from its color, redwood (Palo Colorado)—we stopped near a lake, the land about it being covered with pasture and many trees of redwood.
In this journey there had been seen many tracks of herds of animals, that appear to be of the cow kind. It may be that they are buffalo. Also have been seen very large animals of the deer kind; also other large animals which are said to be antelope, different from those ordinarily called deer; also have been found much dung of beasts of the mule kind—herds of them with very large ears, short tails and wide, have been seen also have been seen many cranes on the waters of the lakes. Our explorers say that about here and near by, they have seen many trees bearing acorns. They said they were ripe, and brought me a few to examine, and what they said is true. The only difference noted is that the shell is thicker than those of Spain.
[The reader will perceive that this camping-place is in the vicinity of the lakes where the Catholic Orphan Asylum is now located. The party pursued a northwest course to get here, coming over hills and extensive plains, discovering while en route from the Pajaro River the first redwood trees ever seen by Europeans. In those days the Pajaro Valley must have been a paradise for sportsmen.—TRANSLATOR.]
WEDNESDAY, eleventh day of the same month.
To-night the sick are worse, and others have become prostrated, and the commanding officer is determined to rest. This morning we had mass, and prayed to the Holy Patriarch St. Jose, for the recovery of the sick, and for the safety of the expedition, and administered the august sacrament and holy oils to three of the sick who appeared to be the worst. The commanding officer determined that while the sick were resting those who were able should go out to reconnoiter, in order to do which Sergeant Ortega, with eight soldiers, left the camp, each one taking three mules for a change. The animals having been weakened by cold, it is necessary to have a relay.
THURSDAY, twelfth day of the same month.
Nothing special occurred this day, nor are the sick any better.
SATURDAY, fourteenth day of the same month.
This P. M. the exploring party returned, and the sergeant reported that he had gone twelve leagues without having acquired any knowledge of the port (Monterey) for which we are searching, and that he reached the foot of a high and white mountain.
SUNDAY, fifteenth day of the same month.
We celebrated mass to-day, recommending to God the sick, who are somewhat relieved, by reason of which the commanding officer determined that we should proceed on our journey, which was done by going a northwest course by a dry bed of a stream and hills covered with acorn trees, and the cañon with redwood trees. After covering half a league we found a creek with branching streams, with the current between steep banks with many trees. There were elms, alders, and willows, but they do not grow except near the creek. We traveled only four and one-half miles, because of the sick being tired, and we stopped in the cañon near a small lake. I gave it the name of Santa Teresa, because it is her day.* There is a plenty of good pasture.
[* It was the custom for the soldiers to name a place something suggested by the surroundings, and the priests also named the same place a scriptural name or in honor of some saint. As there is a saint for every day in the calendar, this latter is not a very difficult task.]
MONDAY, sixteenth day of the same month.
We left this place in the morning by a northwest course, following the cañon of yesterday. There are many extremely large redwood trees. After going one mile and a half we saw again the creek, which we left on our journey yesterday. We were near the beach, where the hills were covered with pasture, though at the present time much of it is burned by the Indians, who hide from us. We kept on our way for three and one-half hours, during which we traveled six miles, going slow because of the sick, the poor fellows being obliged to travel at a slow pace. We passed over the banks of a creek about twelve feet wide, with running water, which is deep. On its banks there are many trees of elms and alder by reason of moisture in the soil. It does not appear that the water can be utilized to irrigate some adjoining meadows. I named the place Rosario de Beate Serafin de Asculi.
[After leaving the lakes it is evident that the party, endeavoring to profit by their experience in the sloughs and swamps near Castroville, proceeded on their journey toward the mountains. They probably crossed over the hills to Aptos Creek, and were near the mouth of that stream on the morning of Monday the 16th. After traveling a distance which they judged to be six miles, they came to another stream twelve feet wide, with deep running water, and there, is a sort of melancholy air about the statement that "it does not appear that the water can be utilized to irrigate some adjoining meadows." In the country from which the old padres came, water was the great desideratum, and as they had an eye for temporal as well as spiritual things, it was not pleasant to see water running to waste to the sea, through a country where irrigation seemed impracticable. This stream is Soquel Creek.—TRANSLATOR.]
TUESDAY, 17th of the same month.
We broke camp about nine A. M. and traveled a west by northwest course over good lands, showing a great deal of pasture. We were in sight of the sea, and about three miles distant from the beach. Here we again find trees of redwood. We journeyed six miles, occupying three hours. We found three creeks, two with running water, one of them with an ox of running water (this means a stream of water about equal in size or volume to the body of an ox). These creeks run through table-lands of good soil. There are many poplar and alder trees. Toward the end of this day's journey, we turned to the westward, and not very far from the sea we came to a river of much water, which we crossed. It was about fifty-four feet wide, and in the middle the water reached to the bellies of the animals. It is the largest stream we have seen in all the journey. In its bed there are many poplar and alder trees, and has very good patches of land that can be sown and irrigated. The stream is not distant from the beach, and according to what the explorers say, it empties into a small shallow arm of the sea into which the tide rises and falls. We rested on the other side of the river, and to descend and ascend the banks of it caused us some trouble. The river has besides many redwood trees. Near the river we came to good and different land which was not burnt over. It gave us pleasure to see the grasses and the variety of the herbage, and the roses of Castile. We called the river "San Lorenzo." We did not find at this river, nor did we see on the journey, any Indians.
[From the above diary it will be seen that the San Lorenzo River was discovered and named on Tuesday, October 17, 1769, the expedition having occupied an entire day traveling from Soquel Creek to the San Lorenzo River. From Father Crespi's description of where the river debouches it would seem that at that time it emptied into what is now the "Neary " lagoon. Corroborative evidence of this has been found by the translator in pieces of redwood logs discovered beneath the surface of the earth, and charcoal at twelve feet depth when digging wells. The reverend Father notes here with evident satisfaction the variety of the herbage and the "roses of Castile." If this place was the home of the rose one hundred and twenty-two years ago, it is not surprising that it now should surprise and delight the world with the beauty and variety of its flowers. From this point to the place where we leave the party, somewhere near the boundary line of this county, the reader will find no difficulty in following them. The creek which they named "Santa Cruz " is the one which flows through Kirby's Tannery. The description of the table-lands and gulches with precipitous sides, the bald hills, all could not be better described to-day.—TRANSLATOR.]
WEDNESDAY, eighteenth day of the same month.
About eight o'clock A. M. we continued our journey on. a line with the coast, along and in sight of the sea. At about five hundred paces from where we left the grassy plain we crossed quite a creek of running water that comes from some high hills, where, after rising, it crosses wide table-lands of good quality, that might easily be irrigated from the water of the creek. We named this creek "Santa Cruz." The table-lands terminate with declivities toward the sea, and are about three miles in width from the sea until reaching the low hills. We traveled three and one-half hours and gained six miles in our journey, during which we descended and ascended four gulches (barrancas) of profound depths that have running water which empties into the sea. Along their sides may be seen burnt trees, and about the middle of the journey we no longer saw redwood trees. We made camp at the fourth gulch, which ends in a small shallow arm of the sea, which we named "San Lucas Creek." The soldiers, however, gave it the name of "The Bridges," because with fagots and earth they were obliged to construct a road to pass upon.
THURSDAY, nineteenth day of the same month.
This is the day of St. Peter of Alcantara. We started about eight o'clock in the morning, the way being very difficult by reason of the frequent deep gulches which we were obliged to put in condition. We crossed several of them, and all of us worked hard to be able to do so, especially one of them, which had such precipitous sides the mule that carried the camp pot tumbled over, which accident gave the place the name of "Camp Pot Gulch." The coast here turns more to the northwest, with deep declivities at the sea, and where terminate the deep gulches, forming at their mouths small beaches. We had upon the right hand white hills, the bareness of which causes sadness. We halted on top of a high hill, having in view the white mountain that was discovered by our explorers, and upon which may be seen some groups of pines. At the base of the hill there are two headlands projecting into the sea, against which the waters dash with violence, one on the right hand and the other on the left. The journey was seven and one-half miles, occupying us nearly five hours. It appears to me that it will not be a bad place upon which to found a settlement. Although we saw no Indians, we did discover vestiges of their villages, from which but a short time before they had departed. I named the place "St. Peter of Alcantara;" the soldiers, however, called it the "Heights of Fumin."
FRIDAY, twentieth day of the same month.
To get out from this place we were obliged to ascend a high hill, upon the other side of which and at its base there runs a creek, the same being on the north side; and it was necessary here to open a road with crowbars, and upon this task we used up all the morning, and, therefore, did not start again until the afternoon. We traveled along an irregular and broken country for a long distance, over the backbone of a mountain with precipices that fall toward the sea, and rested at the beach of one of them, at the mouth of a cañon about a league distant from where we started. The coast here trends for a short distance to the northeast, quarter north. The cañon opens toward the north northeast, and we named it "San Luis Beltran," although distant from our kingdom. The point which we judged to be New Years is about three miles from us, and we yet find ourselves at the extensive bay at which we presumed the port of Monterey to be situated.
[From this point the expedition continued to Half Moon Bay, and perceiving that they were in latitude 37 degrees, 31 minutes, considerably above the place assigned to Monterey by Vizcaino, they concluded that they either had passed the port, that Vizcaino had erred in his description of it, or that the bay had been filled with silt or destroyed by some convulsion of nature. They accordingly sent out their explorers over the mountains to the northeast. After an absence of three days they returned, waving flags, firing muskets, and shouting the news of a great discovery. This was a great arm of the sea, or Mediterranean Sea, as they termed it,
and is the Bay of San Francisco. After proceeding to it, the lateness of the season and scarcity of rations compelled them to retrace their steps, and they accordingly started to return to San Diego the 11th of November, 1769. The expedition on its homeward trip reached Point Pinos November 27, and spent the time from this date until December 9 searching for the Bay of Monterey. On this latter date they proceeded on their journey, reaching San Diego, worn out with hunger and fatigue, on the 24th of the following January.]
"Before leaving Point Pinos," says John T. Doyle, in his memorandum of the Bay of San Francisco, "they erected on its southern side a large wooden cross, partly as a memento of their sojourn there, and partly to attract the attention of the expedition by sea, in case of its reaching the same place. On the cross was cut the legend, 'Dig at the foot of this, and you will find a writing,' and at its foot accordingly they buried a brief account of their journey. Its text is set forth in the diary of Father Crespi, and is as follows:—
"'The overland expedition which left San Diego on the 14th of July, 1769, under the command of Don Gaspar Portola, governor of California, reached the channel of Santa Barbara on the 9th of August, and passed Point Conception on the 27th of the same month. It arrived at the Sierra de Santa Lucia on the 13th of September, entered that range of mountains on the 17th of the same month, and emerged from it on the 1st of October; on the same day caught sight of Point Pinos, and the harbors on its north and south sides, without discovering any indications or landmarks of the Bay of Monterey. Determined to push on further in search of it, and on the 30th of October got sight of Point Reyes and the Farallones, at the Bay of San Francisco, which are seven in number. The expedition strove to reach Point Reyes, but was hindered by an immense arm of the sea, which, extending to a great distance inland, compelled them to make an enormous circuit for that purpose. In consequence of this and other difficulties, the greatest of all being the absolute want of food, the expedition was compelled to turn back, believing that they must have passed the harbor of Monterey without discovering it. Started on return from the Bay of San Francisco on the 11th of November, passed Point Año Nuevo on the 19th, and reached this point and harbor of Pinos on the 27th of the same month. From that date until the present, 9th of December, we have used every effort to find the Bay of Monterey, searching the coast, notwithstanding its ruggedness, far and wide, but in vain. At last, undeceived and despairing of finding it, after so many efforts, sufferings, and labors, and having left of all our provisions but fourteen small sacks of flour, we leave this place to-day for San Diego. I beg of Almighty God to guide it; and for you, traveler, who may read this, that he may guide you, also, to the harbor of eternal salvation.
" ' Done, in this harbor of Pinos, the 9th of December, 1769.' "
Immediately following this are the latitudes of various places on the trip, taken by the engineer of the trip, Don Michael Constanzio. This is followed by further comment, viz.:---
If the commanders of the schooners, either the San Jose or the Principe, should reach this place within a few days after this date, on learning the contents of this writing, and of the distressed condition of this expedition, we beseech them to follow the coast down closely toward San Diego, so that if we should be happy enough to catch sight of them, we may be able to apprize them by signals, flags, and firearms, of the place in which succor and provisions may reach us."
On the other side of the point they erected another cross, and carved upon its arms, with a razor, these words:—
"The overland expedition from San Diego returned from this place on the 9th of December, 1769, starving."
I have given this brief resumé of the balance of the journey of this expedition at the risk of being accused of introducing matter extraneous to the subject, the "History of Santa Cruz County;" but in following this expedition through Santa Cruz County, I felt that the reader's interest would have been awakened to the extent of desiring to know what they accomplished, and when and how they returned.
[To any person familiar with the numerous bays and locked harbors and indentations of the coast of Lower California, and the eastern shore of the Gulf of California particularly, it does not appear at all strange that the expedition could not find the Bay of Monterey. They had been accustomed to the bays, harbors, and anchorage places of the eastern shore of the Gulf of California, many of such bays entirely landlocked; the translator of this work threw a stone across the mouth of one of such, yet within there was room enough to place the navies of the world. Vizcaino did not give the dimensions or particular appearance of the Bay of Monterey, and to a person on the shore of the bay looking seaward not much of a bay is to be seen; but instead he appears to view in open roadstead. It is only when at sea that one can perceive the configuration of the bay. The members of the expedition were looking for a landlocked harbor, such as they were acquainted with, and which they brought with them in their mind's eye. With these considerations it is not to be wondered at that they could not find the Bay of Monterey.—TRANSLATOR.]
A brief outline
of the establishment of the mission in 1791 had already been given by the
publisher of this work in the preceding chapter, hence the omission in this
connection of facts pertaining to that interesting event is due to a desire to
avoid repetition.
Not long after the dedication of the
mission, however, there was an important and interesting correspondence between
the Governor of California and a civil engineer by the name of Alberto de
Cordoba. This correspondence particularly refers to the establishment of a town
at Branciforte, on the opposite side from the Santa Cruz Mission, on the San
Lorenzo River. As this correspondence is in itself self-explanatory, I herewith
submit the translation of the original document, without further comment.
GOVERNOR'S ORDER.
At the Mission of Santa Clara I delivered you a certified copy of the official order on the 19th of December of last year (1795) sent me by his excellency, viceroy and marquis of Branciforte, together with the report made by the general auditor of accounts, and to which he alludes, mentioning that for want of time the second company of Volunteers of Catalina have not been provided with the articles solicited for them; also that they are destined to perform military service in their province, and indicates they will be compensated for such services, because there is to be established a new place in which they will be permitted to reside when they are discharged.
In order to make known to his excellency about what follows, that he may decide as appears proper to him, and with full understanding, I wish you would inform me at length of your views and ideas which were formed and had in my company when we were making a reconnoissance of the lands of the Mission of Santa Cruz and vicinity, from the Pajaro River to Santa Clara, and also in company with the lieutenant colonel, Pedro Alberni, when exploring the place called Alameda (opposite side of the bay from San Jose) and vicinity, and the Presidio of San Francisco and mission of same name. In the report you will make, state whether or not the lands in the vicinity of the aforesaid presidio or mission are proper upon which to form a settlement of Spaniards, and give the qualities of such lands. Also, the same concerning the land near Santa Cruz, and whether, in your opinion, there will be caused any damage or hurt to the Indians should there be established on the side of the river nearest to Monterey a town inhabited by people of reason (other than Indians), and what advantages may arise from making such a settlement. The same you will state concerning the place called Alameda, and other places that you may know of. Also, state what precise and indispensable aid, as you comprehend, should be given to the settlers, distinguishing them from the volunteer soldier who has served his enlistment, or the pensioned soldier who may arrive, and considering the former as settlers who expect to be permanent residents. Upon these and other matters referred to in the official order, you will report, explaining yourself clearly, using your knowledge and intelligence. May our Saviour protect you many years.
DIEGO DE BORICA,
Military Commander of California.
To Alberto de Cordoba.
Monterey, June 16, 1796.
Under date of July 2 (1796), from the Presidio of San Francisco, Albert de Cordoba replies to this communication .of the Governor, as follows:—
REPORT OF ALBERTO DE CORDOBA, CIVIL ENGINEER.
In answer to the official communication of your honor, dated the l0th of last month, requesting me to report my belief as to the best and most appropriate place in which to form a new settlement and town, and concerning which I made an inspection with your honor of the lands contiguous to the Mission of Santa Cruz, and with Mr. Pedro Alberni also inspected the place called Alameda, and the lands of the Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, I should say that the only place that presents advantages sufficient for the desired end is that which is situated on the side next you, of the river of the Mission of Santa Cruz, because it is there is found good land, portions of which are susceptible of irrigation, and portions moist enough to grow crops, and other portions which are pasture lands, for large and increasing herds of cattle of all kinds; also having all the necessaries, such as timber, stone, limestone, clay to make adobe bricks, and tiles for the construction of edifices, and plenty of water for all uses; also with the advantage of being near the sea, which affords an abundance of different kinds of fish, and a means of transportation, at little cost, the fruits and grain that may be raised by the settlers, who will be permanent residents, and it is my opinion and belief the Indians will not suffer any damage or drawback by reason of founding a new settlement, because at the mission there will be left to them good and large tracts of land, which they can use for cultivation, and upon which their animals can pasture.
The place called "Alameda" has not the necessary advantages for the intended enterprise. Indeed, although its lands are good and not mountainous, it is without water sufficient to irrigate with, for domestic and mechanical purposes; neither is there to be found in its vicinity, timber, firewood, nor stone, and by reason of these wants it does not appear to me to be a suitable place upon which to found a new settlement.
At the place called "Presidio of San Francisco" and mission of the same name, and its environs, there are not to be found sowing land for a distance of seven or eight leagues, not even sufficient to compose a very small farm, because the lands are thin and arid, and covered with hills of loose sand; running water exceedingly scarce, and nothing grows there, excepting some bushes and shrubs; and although the lands should be fit to sow and cultivate, it appears to me it would be difficult to do so, because of the fierce and incessant winds that one meets with there, and this is the reason that the mission has been obliged to select a place about six leagues distant upon the coast near to Mussel Point, where they found some land fit for cultivation, upon which they could grow enough to maintain the Indians with, there being but a very small quantity of land good enough for cultivation anywhere in the vicinity of the said mission. Therefore; when it is intended to put in practice the project of founding a new settlement, it can be done at the place before mentioned, adjoining the Mission of Santa Cruz, which is distant thirty leagues (ninety miles) from the Presidio of San Francisco, and twenty-five leagues from Monterey. Whenever the superior powers conclude to put in execution the said project of founding a settlement of Spanish people, in order that it progress favorably and with rapidity it should be understood that at the charge of the royal treasury the houses are to be built, and that there be given to the settlers all the agricultural implements necessary for their use, and all kinds of live stock, to the end that immediately upon taking possession of their tracts of land, they can apply themselves to cultivation, so that they may be enabled soon to harvest enough for their support. Indeed, if they should be obliged to build their homes and barns, in which to preserve their crops when harvested; they will require one year, perhaps two, to do it in, because of the scarcity which exists in this country of mechanics or builders, and thus it will be seen, they would be prevented from cultivating their land until the third year, which delay would retard their progress, and still more so if the facilities are not extended for the sale of their fruits and grains. The soldiers belonging to the volunteer corps, and who have served out their enlistment, and also those of the regulars who are discharged with a pension, believe themselves entitled to greater and other aid than that which may be furnished to the settlers, because of the service rendered by the former during the years they have served his majesty honorably, bearing his arms.
With respect to the Indians of the country, they have neither captains nor chiefs, and live where best they can, seeking herbs and wild fruits upon which they subsist, so it is not practicable to bring into the settlement their captains, and in such a way be assured of the fealty of the tribes. And the only mode there remains in which to civilize them, is to locate a certain number at the various missions, near towns, and set them to work, so that in time, learning from the Spaniards, they may be able to govern and maintain themselves.
The advantages opened to the new establishment are that it can be self-supporting, by supplying and having a market at Monterey and San Francisco for its products, thus augmenting the cultivation of its lands, and increasing its population, provided means of transportation are furnished, and then the inhabitants will seek the mode and apply themselves with energy and zeal to better themselves, so that their descendants may prosper. Thus I report as requested by prior command of the 18th ult.
May God protect you many years. ALBERTO DE CORDOBA, C. E.
To his Honor, Diego de Borica, Governor of California.
Presidio of San Francisco, July 2, 1796.
APPROVAL BY THE VICEROY.
The attorney-general of his majesty has informed himself of the late report and other proceedings concerning the founding of a village called Branciforte, and on the 29th of December last, among other matters, communicated to me the following:---
Your excellency, there have been given necessary and effective orders concerning the sending of families of proper status. And solely there is wanting the action of the military inspector, to whom was sent your communication, for him to order their transportation to San Blas, there to take shipping for California, so that the first lot of them who arrive will have for their destination the new settlement. In the meantime the rest of them will be sent.
There have been made, your excellency, mechanics of all the traders, quite a long time since, and there has been received advice communicated by his honor, the same governor, that they are making good progress.. In fact, they now know how to weave, to make saddles, also shoes and other manufactures; and some of the natives (Indians) of that far-off peninsula (California) have taken instruction from the same before, and they have in this way made use of them (the Indians) without having to solicit the assistance of any others. Whenever mechanics have been employed on account of the royal treasury, there have been sent the tools that have been considered very necessary, not for the use of any person as his own, but for the use of all in common.
In reference to the plan of the new town, the only defect thought of by the office (of attorney-general) is that there is no designated lot for the public offices and the town hall. According to statute 8, title 7, book 4, of the king, these buildings should be near to the chapel and hospital, as provided in statute 2, title 4, book 1, in order that in time of necessity they (the officers) can mutually protect one another. All other matters are found to agree with the instructions as contained in said statutes referred to as title 7, book 4, and although such cannot be entirely complied with now in all their, parts, they will be in the future, as time progresses. With these remarks, your excellency, and those expressed by the board of auditors, in its communication of November 18th of the past year, this office approves of establishing the new village, permitting it to be with the rank expressed (village), with the glorious name of Branciforte, at the site or place as proposed by his honor the Governor of California, he acting with, and as decided upon by, Lieutenant Colonel Pedro Alberni and Civil Engineer Alberto de Cordoba, who considered it to be the proper place.
May God protect your honor many years. BRANCIFORTE,
To the Governor of California. Viceroy of Mexico.
Mexico, January 25, 1797.
A true copy. DIEGO DE BORICA,
May 9,1797. Governor of California.
While there are numerous documents in existence relating to the conducting of the government of the village of Branciforte, they are not of sufficient importance to claim a position in the limited space of this volume. In 1835 Forbes, in his " History of California," states that there were only three towns independent of the missions and presidios in all Upper California. These were Los Angeles, San Jose, and Branciforte. He describes Branciforte by saying: "It is about a mile distant from the Mission of Santa Cruz, a mile and a half from the shore of the Bay of Monterey, and eighteen leagues from the presidio of the same name. Its inhabitants do not much exceed one hundred and fifty, and their occupation is rural labor. This town has also its alcalde, that is dependent on the military commandant of Monterey."
Transcribed by Kathy Sedler