Sonoma County History

GRANTS. The Mexican Grants included partly or wholly in this township are the El Molino, Canada de Jonive, Llano de Santa Rosa, Blucher and Canada de Pogolome. Almost the entire township is covered with them which is a sufficient guarantee for the quality of the land, as grants always covered the cream of the country.

BODEGA

GEOGRAPHY. - Bodega Township is situated on the western side of Sonoma County, its western boundary being the Pacific Ocean. It is bounded as follows: On the north by Ocean and Redwood townships, on the east by Analy township, on the south by Marin County, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Like all the townships in the county, the boundary lines are very irregular, following as they do the sinuosities of stream and ocean shore. There are no navigable streams in the township, but on the south boundary of it is the stream known as the "Estero Americano," which is deep enough to float small vessels for some distance up at high tide.

Topography. - The general surface of this township is very uneven, but there are no mountains in it. It is composed of rolling, broad-sweeping hills, with wide and fertile valleys lying between. But few of the hills are so steep that they cannot be cultivated with ease, while the most of them are grand, long-reaching undulations. The valleys are not so extensive as in some of the other townships, but are more numerous.

Soil. - The soil in this township is mostly of a sandy loam; in fact, there is scarcely any clay in it at all, except on now and then a hill-top. This soil is very fertile, and produces cereals and vegetables in the greatest abundance. Fruits and vines also thrive well, and yield their full share of wealth to the industrious husbandman. In the valleys of course the soil is much more productive than on the hill-sides, still there is nothing to complain of on them. The soil is by far the most evenly dispersed in all sections of this township than in any other in the county.

Climate. - The climate of this township is very similar to all the sections immediately adjacent to the coast. During the Summer months the sea-breeze sweeps over it ad lib., as there are no mountains to break its force. In the valleys leading directly up from the coast this wind sometimes assumes the magnitude of a small tornado. The result of this is that the climate in these valleys is temperate and cool. This wind is sometimes heavily laden with fogs which bank up in the heads of the valleys and overshadow everything, from the later hours of the afternoon till it is dispelled by the rays of the mid-day sun upon its near approach to the zenith. Although these fogs are oftentimes very dank and disagreeable, yet they are wonderful agents for good, acting almost as effectually upon all growing vegetation as a shower of rain or an irrigating. The result of this is seen most potently upon the redwood trees. It is in this township that the redwood belt begins; and it is also observable that those trees at the beginning of the belt, do not grow on the south sides of the hills, but rather on the north sides, and in those ravines which pierce a ridge upon its north side, in the heads of which ravines the fogs bank up the most defense. However, we do not wish to convey the idea that there are no bright and beautiful days in this most charming and fertile section of the county. On the other hand, there are days and days the most bright and beautiful, such days as only a California climate can produce, with their azure skies and fleecy clouds. In the later Autumn, when the fierce blast of the trade winds is heard shrieking no more amid the swaying boughs of the towering redwoods; when the sunlight is filtered down upon the world through a radiant film of amber haze; then, indeed, is it a lovely place, and its climate such to be remembered to the end of one's days. In the Winter season it is mild and temperate. The winds do not blow so strongly, and come from another direction. It is really the most excellent time of the year as far as climate is concerned.

Products.- This township is decidedly agricultural in its products, yet they are varied, ranging through all the grades of rich semi-tropical country. Vegetables, and especially potatoes, seem to be the best adapted to the soil. In the warm sandy loam of this section this tube grows in the most profuse luxuriance, thriving even to the very hill-tops with no other irrigation than the natural moisture of the earth, sequent upon the Winter's rains, and the dense fogs which come up from the near ocean. On every hill-top, hill-side and valley may be seen great fields of potatoes. Wheat, oats, barley and corn thrive moderately well here, though the fogs are so heavy that the grain does not ripen very readily. The business of dairying is carried on somewhat extensively in some parts of the township. The pasture is very fine at all seasons of the year, being kept fresh and green by the fogs. As the soil is becoming somewhat worn in the prolonged siege of potato raising, and a change is becoming absolutely necessary, the most of the farmers drift into the dairy business. Lumber is also one of the chief products of the township; as stated above, the redwood belt has its beginning in this township. It was in this township that the first steam saw-mill on the Pacific Coast was put in operation in 1843, and since that time the making of lumber has been more or less vigorously prosecuted as an industry. Even in the early days when all the products of the township had to be brought to the port, often over rough roads, for shipment to San Francisco, the lumber industry throve, and some of those early mills are standing and doing some good work to-day, on the same sites they occupied a quarter of a century ago. These woods also yield a goodly supply of fence-posts, railroad ties, cord-wood, etc. Now that the metropolitan market is reached in a few hours by rail, the industries of this character have increased many fold, and are fast becoming the prominent features of the business enterprises of this section of the country.

Early Settlement. - To Bodega belongs the honor of having the first permanent settlement of Europeans north of the bay of San Francisco, and within the limits of the State of California; while the entrance of the beautiful little bay bearing that name was made by Europeans at least one year previous to the location of the mission at Yerba Buena, now San Francisco. It is stated that in the year 1775, a distinguished Spanish navigator by the name of Lieutenant Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, in a naval vessel called the "Sonora," entered this bay, and after carefully exploring it gave it the name of Bodega, in honor of himself. From that time, however, until the year 1811, a period of thirty-six years, we do not find the bay was ever visited at all, but, however, it is to be presumed that it was visited occasionally by the vessels which chanced to pass that way. In January, 1811, there arrived in the quiet waters of the lovely little bay a strange looking craft bearing a burden of human freight. They were men with unkempt hair and shaggy beards, and with frames of iron, well inured to a life of excessive toil and exposure to the rigors of an inclement climate. To them, as they entered this beautiful cove on that mid-winter's day, the surrounding country must have seemed to be a veritable Paradise. Accustomed as they had been all their lives to see naught but the deep snow lying over all the face of the earth at this season of the year, the sight of the vernal hills basking in the bright sunshine must have been the most lovely view which ever greeted their gaze. These brawny strangers were Russians, who had come from Sitka for the purpose of establishing a military post, and a head-quarters for a band of fur hunters; they also proposed to farm quite extensively, using their products for supplying their fur-hunting colonies in Sitka. At this time there were twenty Russians and fifty Kodiac Indians, under the leadership of Alexander Kuskoff, a man with a wooden leg, and to whom, a man with a wooden leg, and to whom, on this account, the native Californians applied the sobriquet of "Pie de Palo." To Bodega Bay the new comers gave the name of "Slavianka." Knowing full well that they had no just title or claim to the land, they framed a pretext for landing there, by stating that they had been refused a supply of fresh water at Yerba Buena. To strengthen this claim they asserted they had purchased all the land lying adjacent to the bay from the Aborigines, and this claim was ultimately extended until it covered all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Arena, and for a distance of three leagues inland. We will hear no more of this Russian claim to the Spanish domain farther on. As a matter of fact the Russians could not purchase any of this land from the Indians, for at that time the entire country of the Alta Californias belonged to Spain, and General M. G. Vallejo has truly remarked of them that as they "came without invitation, and occupied the land without the permission of the owners, they may well be called the first 'squatters' of California." The Russians, however, went to work with a will, whether they had any right to the soil or not. They proceeded into the interior of the country, about six miles from the bay, and there established a settlement. Houses were built, fields fenced and agricultural pursuits vigorously engaged by them. It was not long however before they found that there was a strong opposition to them, and that it would be necessary to build a fort for their protection if they would keep possession of their newly acquired domain. With this object in view they started in search of a place most suitable for the location of their stockade. About thirty miles to the northward, on the coast, they found the desired location. This point was within the present limits of Salt Point township.

As soon as the first crop had matured, and was ready for shipment, it became necessary for them to have a warehouse at the bay where their vessels could be loaded. Accordingly a building for this purpose was erected on the south side of the point of land extending into the sea and forming the northern shore of the bay, near the extreme westerly end of the headland. This building was eighty by one hundred feet in dimensions. It was probably used extensively at the same time for the storage of furs and peltry, for it must be borne in mind that one great object of the establishment of a settlement at this point was to make it a headquarters for their hunters. This building was very strong and durable, and would probably be standing at the present writing but for the fact that a land slide slept the most of it into the bay some years ago. They also had another house at the bay near this warehouse, but what it was used for is not now known, it was used by the American settlers in later years as a sort of dwelling house and hotel, and it is from a mention of this fact that we know of its existence at all. We will now speak more extensively of the Russian settlement in the interior. This was situated just north of the present town of Bodega Corners, and the Capt. Smith adobe ranch house stands directly upon the site of the Russian buildings.

It is impossible now to give the exact original number of these houses, owing to the fact that they are all demolished, not a vestige remaining of them to tell the story of their existence. There were, however certainly quite a number of them at one time, if the statements of the very earliest settlers in that section are to be credited. These houses were small and rough, the boards being hewn from redwood logs. They were each strong enough for a bastion, and were doubtless built with the double purpose of shelter from the storms, and protection from the enemy in view. They were nearly square, and about twelve feet in dimensions. Some of them, presumably those earliest constructed, were made of hewn logs, well mortised together at the corners. It does not appear that they ever farmed so extensively here as at Fort Ross. It is quite probable that this part of the country, being most excellently adapted to grazing and dairying purposes, was devoted almost exclusively to this business. An extract from the journal of Captain John Hall, who visited Bodega bay in June, 1822, would seem to sustain this idea. He says that the Russian Commander paid him a visit while he was in Bodega Bay, and brought on board with him two fine fat sheep, a large tub of butter, and some milk. He also says that vegetables were plentiful in their season.

We now pass on to the year 1841. During all this time the Russians had been able to hold possession of all the country they claimed, and had used it pretty much to suit their own wants and conveniences. In the sketch of Salt Point township will be found a full and complete detailed narration of the Russian occupancy of that section, which, owing to the fact that Fort Ross was their head-quarters, is recorded there. Hence, we refer the reader to that sketch for further detailed information on this most interesting historical topic.

We will now take up the settlement of this township by the Americans, as distinguished from the Russians. The first settlers of this kind of which there are any records were: James Dawson, James Black, and Edward Manuel McIntosh. These three men came to California probably as early as 1830 with Captain Juan B. R. Cooper, brother-in-law of General M. G. Vallejo, as sailors on board of his vessel. Once here, and getting into the free and careless habits of the natives, they preferred to remain on shore. We find that Dawson and McIntosh applied for citizenship under the Mexican Government as early as the year 1833. General Vallejo says, that upon assuming the position of the commandment of the military of California in 1835; he was ordered to extend his settlements as far in the direction of Fort Ross as possible, and to thus encroach upon the Russian territory and usurp their claims. For this purpose he chose the three hardy pioneers mentioned above, and promised to give them each a large grant of land provided they would go and settle right upon the border limits of the Russian claim. The gentlemen readily consented, as they were sure they could live on amicable terms with the Russians. Black settled upon what is now known as the Canada de la Jonive Rancho, while Dawson and McIntosh settled upon the Estero Americano Rancho. In due course of time it became necessary to have proper papers made out by the higher authorities confirming this title which General Vallejo had given these men to their land. Black and McIntosh went together to Monterey for this purpose, Dawson remaining at home to look after the property interests of both ranchos. Black got his papers made out to the Jonive Rancho all right, there being no occasion for any crookedness in them, but not so with McIntosh. In having his papers made out he purposely left out the name of his partner, James Dawson.

Lest some should say that it is rather unjust to charge him thus boldly with fraud, we would say that we have the best of evidence to substantiate the assertion. Some may say that grants were not made to partners, but that was only true upon the sea shore. All grants fronting on the sea were given to one man only, and he was charged with certain special duties, especially in time of war. But more of this when we come to consider the Rancho de Herman. When Dawson discovered the rascally trick which had been perpetrated by his partner, McIntosh, he naturally enough flew into a rage and at once proceeded to administer an appropriate chastisement to the offender. Having appeased his wrath to his entire satisfaction, he took a saw, and severing their common house in twain moved his half of it entirely off the rancho. This part of that remarkable house is still standing and in use, forming a part of the residence of F. G. Blume at Freestone. It was strongly and roughly constructed, and has certainly proved very durable. The joists are round, and about five inches in diameter. The outside boards were truly rustic, being riven or split from redwood logs. We will follow the fortunes of these pioneers to the end now, as in the settlement of other sections of the township they do not appear as prominent figures. Jas. Black, a few years later, exchanged the Jonive rancho with Hon. Jasper O'Farrell for a rancho in Marin County, where he lived honored and respected by all who knew him. McIntosh remained on his rancho, the Estero Americano, for some years, but finally entered into an agreement with Jasper O'Farrell which was as follows: McIntosh granted, sold and transferred all his right, title and claim to the said rancho, and to all the stock, improvements and whatever else there might be appertaining to the said rancho, for and in consideration of an annual rental of eight hundred dollars, during the natural life of McIntosh. O'Farrell failed to pay this annual rental, and a lawsuit grew out of the matter. It was eventually compromised by O'Farrell paying McIntosh the sum of five thousand dollars, and McIntosh relinquishing all claims to the rancho and to the annual rental. McIntosh then went to Marin County and made his home with his old ship-mate James Black, till his death, which occurred some ten years since. As soon as Dawson had moved his half of the house off Estero Americano Rancho he made application for a grant to the tract of land on which he had located his house. The application for this grant was made December 27, 1837. It was called the Canada de Pogolome, from an Indian village which was located upon the same tract. In June, 1840, James Dawson was united in marriage with Donna Maria Antonia Cazares, who was the daughter of a dragoon officer under the old Spanish regime. Senorita Cazares was only fourteen years of age at the time of this union. He continued to reside on his rancho with his wife until his death, which occurred in October, 1843. He died without any issue, and his wife became the sole heir to the vast and fertile rancho.

It is probable that to Dawson belongs the honor of the first attempt to make lumber with a saw of any kind in Sonoma County. He dug a pit, and placing the log over it, he stood upon it and used a long rip saw. As early as 1834 he had enough lumber on hand, sawed in this manner, to build a house. This lumber was disposed of to General Vallejo, and he used it in the construction of a house in Sonoma. The pits used by Dawson are still to be seen. And thus is closed the parts which these three pioneers performed in the settlement of this township. They have long since passed from the scenes with which their names have been the most intimately connected, and even now tradition is getting somewhat cloudy concerning many important facts. All honor to whom honor is due, and to them certainly a need of praise should be vouchsafed by the pen of the historian who records and preserves their memories and their deeds.

We will now turn our attention to the incidents which occurred on the old Russian claim from the year 1841 to 1843. General John A. Sutter purchased the entire Russian claims for the sum of thirty thousand dollars in the year 1840. He sent agents - major domos - from New Helvetia, now Sacramento, to take possession of this property as soon as it was relinquished by the Russians. The stock and many of the personal effects were moved from the Russian settlements to New Helvetia, still a major domo was maintained by Sutter at Bodega during all the time mentioned above. The last man who held this position at Bodega was at that time known as Don Juan Bidwell, now General John Bidwell of Chico. Bidwell was Sutter's private secretary and book-keeper, and a man in whom Sutter had the utmost confidence.

Bodega Point. - This was a shipping place at the head of the bay of that name. It was here that the first faint attempt at founding a town in this township occurred. As was stated above, the Russians had erected two buildings on this bay, but they were near to the mouth of the bay, and hard of access to those who came to the port from the interior, hence settlers naturally built their stone houses at a point the most accessible. *Captain Smith owned a small schooner called the "Fayaway," which plied regularly between the port and San Francisco, in the early days. We do not know how long this was continued by him, or what became of the vessel. He used it principally in shipping his lumber to market. In the year 1850, two men named John Keyes and ________ Noble, put in a crop of potatoes. This was the first crop of the kind which had ever been grown in that section. They were merely squatters, not having leased the land of Captain Smith. They raised the crop on the headland known as Bodega Point. After the crop was matured they had to get a vessel to take it to market. A small schooner of about fifteen tons burden was purchased and run by John Keyes. It was called the "Spray." Keyes continued to run this vessel until the spring of 1857. The fare on this schooner was eight dollars to San Francisco and fifteen dollars for return. Sometime during this year one Captain Tibbey began to run a schooner which he called the "Mary" in this trade. This schooner was built in Australia. The principal exports from the port at this time were lumber, shingles, and potatoes. Cattle and sheep were sometimes shipped also.

A schooner called the "Sheriff," in 1853, Captain Tibbey, master, went ashore near Cape Mendocino, and all on board perished. In the Fall of 1850, or Spring of 1851, a large schooner called the "Caroline," with a valuable cargo on board, bound for Trinidad,

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*For Captain Smith's arrival and location at Bodega, see pg. 51, and following, of this work.

went ashore on the sand-pit which projects into Bodega Bay. The vessel and cargo were lost, but the officers and sailors escaped. Captain Andrew Rutherford ran a propeller between the port and San Francisco a few trips about 1858, but could not make it pay, and hence discontinued the trips. From 1852 to 1860 there were several vessels plying in this trade, there being often as many as six at one time making weekly trips to the city and return. The first man to rent land of Captain Smith was Edward Cheeney. He leased two hundred acres from him during the winter of 1850-51, on the Point. This land had been cultivated previously, first by the Russians, and during the previous season by Keyes and Noble. The terms of this lease were that Cheeney was to pay two dollars per acre for rent, payable when the crop was sold; Smith would allow five cents a rail for fencing the land. Smith sometimes rented land on shares, furnishing everything to the renter and taking half the crop. This was really the better way for him to rent his land, as the half of the crop would net from fifty to one hundred dollars per acre. If a man were poor and appeared to be honest, Captain Smith would advance him the necessary amount of money to put in his crop, without interest. It is said that many of his renters took advantage of his liberal terms, and rewarded his kindness by disposing of the crop and leaving the Captain's claims unsettled. This land in that early day was very productive. Mr. Cheeney raised sixty bushels of wheat and one hundred bushels of oats to the acre, and one renter had an acre of potatoes which brought him five hundred dollars. February 20, 1851, Stephen L. and James E. Fowler, two brothers, and Messrs. Loper and Hedges arrived at Bodega. We have at hand a diary which was kept by Stephen L. Fowler at that time. To it we are indebted for a number of facts contained in this sketch, and we will here, once for all, give him the credit for all the extracts we may use from his diary. The four men mentioned above formed a company, and styled themselves the "Suffolk Company," for the purpose of farming. They located about two and a half miles from the port, across a creek (from Captain Smith's house), and on a tract which would not need to be fenced. This was quite an object. This company planted quite an extensive crop this year, and the yield was very good in both quantity and price. The seed they used for their garden came from the Colonies (Australia). A box for which they paid fifteen dollars, contained six quarts of peas, two of beans, four ounces of onion seed, five ounces of cabbage seed of different kinds, celery, raddish, broccoli, mustard, spinage, cucumber, beets, carrots, capiscum, pepper-grass, lettuce, all in small parcels; also one-half pound each of three different kinds of turnip seeds. All these seeds were planted, and all throve well in the rich soil of that section. As high as eight cents a pound was paid by them for seed potatoes that spring. It rained until very late into the season that year. They mowed wild oats for hay. This hay was easily cured, and served the purpose well. They raised quite a crop of barley. It was harvested and threshed in the month of July. The following description of the modus operandi of threshing the grain is copied from the diary mentioned above: "A corral is constructed of poles driven in the ground in a circle. Several cart-loads of barley are then drawn in and placed within the corral. Forty or fifty horses are then turned into the corral, and driven around at a furious rate of speed. As soon as the grain is tramped out of the upper layer the straw is thrown out, and the process repeated until the bottom is reached. The grain is then removed, and carefully cleaned by hand."

During the year 1851 several newcomers put in an appearance, and the opening of the spring of 1852 saw the greater portion of the land near the Port taken up by renters. Of these but few remain in that section now, and their names have passed into oblivion. In fact, no name but a nick-name was known for many of them. Of those mentioned above, Mr. Cheeney still resides near this Port, a genial old gentleman, with whom it is a pleasure to meet and talk of the early days. James E. Fowler is now a retired merchant, living a life of leisure upon a handsome competence gained in this township. His beautiful home is located at Valley Ford. He, too, is a most estimable and pleasant gentleman.

The first warehouse at the Port, at the head of the bay, was built by Capt. Smith, in 1848. This was a small building, and was erected rather for the purposes of a freight-house than a store-house. It was only sixteen by twenty. The next warehouse was built in October, 1851, by the Suffolk Company. It was twenty-four by eighteen, with ten feet studding. This company also constructed a boat at this time in which to ferry their potatoes over the creek mentioned above. This creek has its debouchure just north of the point where the landing was at the head of the bay. This boat was a sort of a lighter, thirty-six feet long by ten feet wide, and one foot deep. In 1852, Samuel Potter built a warehouse thirty by sixty feet in dimensions. During the same year Stephen Smith, a nephew of the Captain, and Mr. Cheeney erected a warehouse forty by twenty-five. This building is still standing. The first store was built at this point in 1853 by Donald McDonald. It was a small affair, with its foundation extending into the bay, causing the whole building to stand over water at high tide. It was reached by a platform extending from the main land. The building is still standing, but in a most dilapidated condition. In the same year or the next, Jasper O'Farrell built a warehouse fifty by one hundred. In 1858, James Stumpf erected a warehouse which was sixty by eighty; and during the same year Tyler Curtis constructed one, which was forty by one hundred and fifty. In 1852, Captain Smith erected the buildings for a hotel and a bowling alley. In 1860, Tyler Curtis erected the last building ever put up there. It was a warehouse, thirty by eighty. After this the glory of Bodega Port departed forever. It began to go into decay, and at the present time there is no more forlorn and dilapidated-looking place in the State. Nearly all the buildings are gone, one warehouse and a part of another remain of all the warehouses which have been built there. The hotel and bowling alley still stand, but where, on a Sunday, at least, one hundred men were wont to congregate and pitch fifty dollar slugs at a peg in front of the bar-room door, scarcely a stranger's face is seen once in a fortnight. The few old buildings are all going to ruin, where was once the bustle and jostle of the great shipping business which loaded a large schooner every day, now the sight of a vessel is something to be wondered at. Bodega Bay is a small harbor, perhaps five miles in diameter. On the north side of it there extends into the ocean a point of land containing, perhaps, one thousand acres. An old Indian legend is extant to the effect that this point or headland was at one time an island. This idea is substantiated by the fact that that portion of the point next the main land is composed of great sand dunes, while the body of it is fine arable soil. The Indians also say, that at one time there was a powerful tribe who made their headquarters on that island, numbering two thousand and six hundred. The old Indian graveyard is still to be seen. It is said by many that the name of Bodega came to be applied to this bay in this wise: Bodega is a Spanish word, and signifies storehouse or warehouse, and after the Russians had constructed their large warehouse on the bay the expression used to designate that locality was, "la bodega de los Russos," which was soon reduced to La Bodega, and finally, by the Americans into Bodega.

There is certainly an air of probability about this version of the naming the place, and we are rather inclined to believe in this as the origin of the name. Of course this derivation of the term is not quite so "grandioso" as the one usually given.

On the south side of the bay, and dividing it from the ocean is a sand spit extending nearly across the mouth of the bay. This makes it a completely land-locked harbor. The point of egress is quite narrow, but there is, or was in the early times always a good stage of water there. The water used to be very deep in the entire bay, but now the greater portion of it is bare at low tide. Vessels were in the habit of coming up to the shore at high water by the side of the warehouses and taking on one-half of the load. Then they hauled out into deep water, and the remainder of the cargo was taken out to them in lighters. Keel vessels of seventy tons, and scow-built vessels of one hundred tons could then come into the bay and load with ease, and get away without any trouble. Some of these old-time lighters, with the windlass by which, and ways on which they were drawn out of the water for repairs, are still to be seen, but all vestiges of the pristine glory of the place are fast decaying, and soon nothing will be known of it more than what is preserved in legend or story.

Bodega was made a port of entry in 1852. It appears that General Estey had one Michael Doherty employed as a book-keeper; Doherty was a shrewd enterprising kind of man, and on several occasions had displayed his ability much to the benefit of his employer, and in such a way that his employer felt that he must do something to repay him. We have been told that General Vallejo could give the details of some of these transactions, but we have not been able to consult him on the subject. Be that as it may, Estey exercised his influence for the establishment of a port of entry at Bodega, and also to have Doherty appointed as inspector of the port. This he succeeded in doing, and Doherty held the position for two years at a salary of ten dollars per diem, for rendering imaginary service to the United States, as no foreign vessel ever entered the harbor, or ever had an idea of it.

Among the many contentions and quarrels which naturally occurred among a population so cosmopolitan, but one led to fatal consequences, as far as we now know. A man by the name of Capt. John Campbell had a warehouse leased, which was the property of Capt. Tibbey, and which was situated near the site of the old Russian buildings, one of which was occupied by an Italian fisherman. There was a spring of water close by, and Campbell claimed to own it, and ordered the Italian not to go to it any more for water. As Campbell had no more right to the spring than the Italian, of course his orders were disobeyed. Campbell did not have the courage to murder the Italian himself, so he inveighed a boy by the name of Alex. Shaw into doing the horrid deed. He promised the boy perfect immunity from any punishment whatever. It is said that when the full truth of the matter was made known that Campbell did not dare to come to the port for a long time, lest he should be pounced upon by an indignant populace, and made to meet his just doom for concocting the dastardly plan.

From time to time there has been more or less excitement in the vicinity of Bodega port in regard to gold. Men have been known to wash out one dollar per day, although they would not average that. Considerable prospecting has also been done along the quartz ledges above, and traces of gold have been found. It is more likely that gold will never be found in this section. That found was what is known as "miners' shot," each grain being about the size of a pin-head, and round. In prospecting the black sand is found in abundance, but the gold is wanting.

Bodega Corners. - We will now pass from the Port of Bodega to the town of the same name. This is situated near the site of the Smith Ranch house, and of course he was the first settler in that section. We will now give a full sketch of this grand ole pioneer, setting forth such facts as we have been able to collect from all available reliable sources. We have already given a graphic description of the inauguration of his saw-mill, and his establishment at this point. On the 14th day of September, 1844, one year after his arrival here, he applied for a grant to the Bodega Rancho. This grant was confirmed by the Departmental Assembly in April, 1846. The grant embraced eight leagues of land and contained 35,487 acres. This was granted to him with the provision that he would maintain upon it a steam saw-mill. The Mexican government was very willing to comply with his request for a grant of land, for they recognized in him a man of energy and enterprise, and one who would advance all the material interests of the country, and they wished to encourage him, and also to entice him to remain where he was; hence the stipulation that the steam saw-mill should be maintained. From this time till 1851 everything on the ranch seems to have pursued the even tenor of its way, with the exception of the year 1846 - the year of the memorable Bear Flag war. Captain Smith had just received a grant from the Mexican government, and had all his property and social interests most closely allied with that people, hence it is probable that he did not care to take any active part in the uprising of the Bear Flag party. It is fair to presume, however, that his heart was with the brave men who were taking such a gallant stand for the freedom of the country. It does not appear from any available records that there was any communication between him and the Bear Flag men, but when it was announced that war had been declared between the United States and Mexico, and when the stars and stripes had taken the place of the bear ensign, and a messenger was sent to his rancho with an American Flag and the, to him, welcome news of the declaration of war, he gladly and earnestly espoused the cause of his native government, and aided and abetted the American Soldiers on all the occasions which presented themselves. Upon receiving the flag sent to him from Sonoma, he at once proceeded to the woods and selecting a beautiful strait tree about fifty feet high, he cut it and brought it to the top of an eminence near his house. He then fashioned a rude figure of a bear with a star attached to the extremity of its tail. This novel emblem was placed at the top of the flag-staff, and reared aloft. The stars and stripes were then run to the top of the staff and unfurled to the breeze for the first time in that section, amid the rousing huzzas of men and the boom of cannon, for be it known that the captain had quite an arsenal of his own there, consisting of either four or six field pieces, all mounted, and a large number of old-fashioned Spanish muskets. When the flag had reached the top of the staff there was a curious commingling of the three emblems of liberty, at that time so justly famous, and popular, viz: the stars and stripes, the bear, and the lone star. Later, during the progress of the war, it is said that he sent a "caballada" of sixty horses to General Fremont, and that his own cannon saw some service in his country's cause. The honor is at least due to him of raising the first American flag in that section. The excavation for the flag-staff was made in the solid rock, and to-day it stands, bearing proudly aloft its double ensign of the bear and the lone star. It is getting well worm-eaten, and is tottering under its weight of years, and will soon be numbered with the things that were. It leans well to the northward, but cannot fall till broken off, as it is held firmly in the excavation in the solid rock.

We now pass on to the year 1851. On the 20th of February of that year Stephen L. Fowler arrived at Capt. Smith's, and we will quote from his diary. From that we get a great many glimpses at the private and public life of the captain. Mr. Fowler says: "We walk from Bodega port to Capt. Smith's, a distance of about five miles. He has a very pretty valley to live in. The most of the buildings were erected by the Russians. The old captain is very hospitable. He has been here about eight years. He has quite a great deal of poultry, a number of hogs, and a great many cattle." He next gives us a glimpse at the domestic economy of the Smith household: "They have coffee about sunrise, at ten o'clock, breakfast, and dinner at dark. This is a Spanish custom." He nexts pays a visit to the mill: "We walked to the Bodega Steam Saw-Mill, where we were kindly treated. We took dinner, and they showed us through the mill. They put the saw in motion, and explained what we did not understand. There are a number of buildings near the mill. The place is called 'Mount Pleasant.' I think it very appropriately named, as it is a very pleasant place."

The above named of Mount Pleasant is probably the writer's translation of the name "Buena Vista," which was applied to a high hill in the neighborhood of the Smith Ranch, and being a stranger he probably supposed it to apply to the entire immediate section. He remarks, further on : "Near Captain Smith's there is a brook where salmon are caught during their season. We saw here a Russian dog, said to be forty years old. The captain's nephew (Stephen Smith) has charge of the ranch. The captain is about to start a tannery." On the 23rd day of June, 1851, the contract for the woodwork on the adobe house. which now stands there, was let to Stephen L. Fowler and one of his partners, Mr. Hedges. An extract from the diary of that date says: "To-day Hedges and myself (S. L. Fowler) rode to Capt. Smith's, to make arrangements about doing some carpenter work. We contracted to do the work of an adobe house, 27 x 70 feet. We have two floors to lay, ceil it overhead, partitions to run to make six rooms, twelve windows to case, besides casing doors and hanging them, and putting in and trimming a front door, and ceiling under the piazza. We are to be boarded and to receive $450 for the job." While at work on this contract and boarding at the house he gives us another glimpse at the internal management of the domestic affairs of the family; also a bill-of-fare for one day: "We eat four meals a day. At sunrise we have a most excellent cup of coffee with bread and butter; at ten o'clock we have breakfast, which consists of coffee, soup, meat, vegetables, and bread; at one o'clock we have a lunch of roast beef, bread, etc., and at six o'clock we have dinner, which consists of about the same as breakfast, except the coffee. We can have a cup of tea any time during the evening, and brandy and water when we wish. We do not eat with the family, as they have much company, and the table is generally full." On the 5th day of August, 1851, we find the following entry: "We had a very good dinner to-day, it being Mrs. Smith's birthday. We had roast turkey and pig, with plenty of vegetables and a good pudding. To-night the ladies came into the building, and the children danced to several Spanish dances to the music of a guitar. James (E. Fowler) declaimed 'Richard the Third,' and, with singing, etc., we passed the evening very pleasantly. There were several bottles of wine sent in by the captain and Mrs. Smith." Being sixteen at the time of her marriage in 1843; she was born August 5, 1827. Two days later, on the 7th, we find the following entry: "To-day the captain has given us the dimensions of the two buildings he wants built for his tannery. One is twenty-four feet square, and ten feet studding; the other is twenty-four by fifty feet, and two stories high." For this contract they were to receive four hundred and fifty dollars. We find that a man by the name of Watson was the tanner; that he had a birthday, when the boys got a little jolly. It was doubtless in this tannery that the first real leather was made in Sonoma County by the American process of tanning. Of course the Russians tanned leather in their way, and probably made a good article, too. After them, and using their appliances, came Major Ernest Rufus. Cyrus Alexander, of Alexander valley, is reputed to have tanned some leather in a crude way. It would therefore seem that to Captain Smith belongs the honor of establishing the first successful tannery in the county. This tannery afterwards passed into the hands of James Stewart. After him came a man by the name of Henry Lane. The building was destroyed by fire in 1868, after doing duty for seventeen years.

Capt. Stephen Smith was of nature's noblemen. He was generous to a fault, large and warm-hearted, kindly disposed, and a man against whom none can say aught, and those who knew him never tire of sounding his praises. It is said that all strangers were welcome within his gates, and that he was offended if a man seemed in haste to leave. It is related of him that a man once came there sick, and remained two weeks. At the end of that time he was well and ready to go on his way. It being yet early in the morning, the Captain had not arisen; the man gave ten dollars to the Captain's son. When the Captain came out of his room the money was duly handed to him, with an account of whence it came. The Captain forthwith flew into a rage, and ordered the young man to mount the fleetest horse on the ranch, overtake the departing stranger, and return his money to him. His house was a veritable hospital, to which all the afflicted in the vicinity could come for treatment, without price and without money. Senora Minungo Torres, the Captain's mother-in-law, was an excellent doctress and nurse, and it is to her skill and attention that many a man owes his life. She would undergo any hardship in carrying out her great mission of love, and it was nothing else than a mission of love with her, as she would never receive any remuneration for her services, and would work as faithfully with a dying Indian as with any one of her own nationality.

A band of Indians, known as the Bodegas, had a "rancheadero" on the banks of a little stream which lay just west of Captain Smith's house. Mrs. Smith and her mother, Senora Torres, were very kind to these Indians, and had them fully under their control. They acted as missionaries to them, and a priest came to the rancho and baptized them all. Their graveyard was consecrated, and rude wooden crosses were placed at the heads of the graves. When the rancho passed into the hands of Tyler Curtis he drove the Indians all away to the reservation. A very few of them are now left at the reservation near Healdsburg, and they occasionally pay a visit to the scenes of their childhood and youth. Their graveyard, which lies in an open field to the south of the adobe house, is fast being obliterated. The crosses are nearly all broken down, and the mounds are nearly leveled with the adjacent fields, and very soon, indeed, will all traces of the existence of this people be swept away by the remorseless hand of man and time.

In August, 1855, a tragedy was committed by one of these Indians which, for cold-blooded and heartless cruelty, can hardly be excelled in all the annals of crime. One day a vaquero by the name of James Phoenix and an Indian named Demos came down to Bodega port from the mouth of Russian River, where they were both engaged in herding stock. While at the port they both drank more or less, but had no trouble. Upon starting away, Phoenix procured a bottle of whisky. He was never seen again alive, and it is known what difficulty arose between them, but it is said that it was thought at the time that it grew out of some contest over the bottle of whisky. Be that as it may, the facts of the murder were about as follows: When they had arrived at the mouth of Salmon Creek the Indian managed to get Phoenix in advance of him in the trail. He then threw his riatta, and the loop caught Phoenix over one shoulder and under the other arm. The Indian wheeled his horse in a flash, and dragged his victim to the ground. He then put spurs to his horse and dragged the unfortunate man a distance of more than a mile over the rough and rocky pathway of the mountain coast trail, dangling at the end of a rope, made fast to the horn of his saddle. He then left his victim until the next day, when he procured the assistance of another Indian name Francisco, and conveyed the body to Willow Creek gulch, and hid it under a pile of rock and brush. The two Indians then came down to the "rancheria" and reported that Demos and Phoenix had gone out the night before to watch for bears, which were feeding on the carcase of a whale, and that they believed that Phoenix had been killed by the bears. Immediate search for the body of Phoenix was instituted; suspicion, however, resting strongly upon the two Indians, especially Demos. Senora Torres called Francisco into a room, and placing him on his knees before a crucifix, recited a number of imprecations which would fall upon him in this world and the next if he did not tell the truth concerning the murder. The solemnity of the rites, and the religious influence which the woman had over him, conspired to make him confess the entire transaction. Demos was at once placed under arrest, and a wagon despatched, with Francisco as a guide, to convey the corpse to the settlement. When found, the body presented the most ghastly appearance imaginable. The clothing and flesh were stripped completely off from several portions of the body. The Indian, Demos, was brought into Justice Jasper O'Farrell's Court, and had a jury trial. The evidence elicited did not throw any light upon the causes which the induced the Indian to commit the deed. The jury did not debate long upon the verdict, which was, that he should be hanged the next day at one o'clock in the afternoon. On the brow of a hill, near the "rancheria," there was a triangle or tripod frame, which was used for suspending animals when butchered. It was decided to hang him at this place, and that Francisco should be his executioner. A grave was dug, and a coffin placed beside it, within a few feet of the place of execution. At the appointed hour he was brought to the improvised scaffold and placed on the head of a barrel, with a rope knotted firmly about his neck. He was then asked if he had anything to say, to which he replied that he desired to be buried with his face down. He then looked over the assembled crowd of whites and Indians, and cast a last wistful glance at the familiar surrounding scenes of his life, then exclaimed: "Adios todo en el mundo" - farewell to all in the world - and was pushed suddenly from his perch upon the barrel. The rope was unfortunately too long, and his toes touched the ground as he fell, whereupon Thos. Murray, Thos. Furlong, and J. Waddell seized the end, which extended through the pulley, and drew it up till he swung clear of the ground, when in a short time he was dead, and had, in a manner, expiated the horrid crime he had committed. There is a sad sequel to this tragedy. The brother of this victim, upon hearing the tragic and cruel fate which ended his brother's career, became a raving maniac, and ended his days in an asylum.

Captain Smith was at one time very wealthy, having as stated above an eight league rancho, on which there is reputed to have been fifteen thousand head of cattle, fifteen thousand head of horses, besides hogs and sheep in large numbers. His income was at one time princely, but misfortune in one way or another overtook him, and at the time of his death he had but little left besides the naked land. It is said that he lost sixty thousand dollars at one time by some Italians in whose safe he had deposited the money. He lost twenty thousand dollars by the first fire in San Francisco in 1851, and large amount in the second one. He was also somewhat careless about business matters, and it is said that he once borrowed six hundred dollars of a man at two percent per month, and through carelessness neglected to pay the debt until it amounted to over five thousand dollars. Captain Smith died in San Francisco in November, 1855, at the ripe old age of seventy-three. His wife and three children survived him. By will dated August 9, 1854, he bequeathed to his wife a life interest, in one-third of the rancho, and the other two-thirds to his three children, share and share alike. The widow afterwards married Tyler Curtis, who succeeded in getting an act of the Legislature passed giving him the right to dispose of the right and interest of the children in the rancho. He soon let the entire fortune filter through his fingers, and thus were the children defrauded, and the rancho passed into other hands.

The beautiful little town of Bodega Corners is situated near the Smith homestead. It took its first start in 1853. A man by the name of George Robinson, went up from Bodega port and opened a saloon at this point that year. It was a place where three roads met, hence the name of Corners was applied to it. A man named Hughes soon followed, and built a blacksmith shop. He was soon joined by another named Bowman and the two built the first hotel in the place, which was afterwards burned. Donald McDonald had a store at the port, which he moved to the new town quite early in its existence. The Rositer Bros., also opened a store about the same time. The old settlers of that vicinity were, James Watson, Ex-sheriff Samuel Potter, M. Hagler, J. L. Springer, Dr. A. K. Piggott, Thomas Murray, James Stumpf, and William H. Steward. The town has grown into a fine village of perhaps three hundred inhabitants. Its business interests are represented as follows: Two general stores, three hotels, one livery stable, one meat market, one blacksmith shop, one wagonmaker's shop, two carpenter shops, two shoe shops, three saloons, two physicians, one millinery store and two barber shops. The official directory is as follows: Thomas Murray, Justice of the Peace; C. C. Cazares, Constable; James McCaughey is Postmaster, Wells Fargo & Co.'s and Telegraph agents. The postoffice was first established at this place September 29, 1854, with Stephen Smith as Postmaster. It was then known as Smith's Ranch. The first school-house in the town was built in 1866. A. S. Sanborn was the first teacher. In 1873, the present beautiful structure was erected for school purposes at a cost of five thousand dollars. There are at present one hundred and twenty-five census children in the district, and two teachers are employed. The Presbyterians have a church organization here. This organization was effected by Rev. A. Fairbairn, October 1, 1865. The original number of members was nine. It has since been increased, till at present there are twenty-three. They have a very nice building, erected in 1868.

The "Bodega War." - The history of this section of Bodega would be incomplete without a short sketch at least of this grand fiasco of Tyler Curtis. All the old settlers who were present take great delight in relating its particulars. It seems that after Curtis came into control at the Bodega Rancho, in the year 1858 or 1859, he undertook to oust parties who were farming parcels of it. Many of these men had rented their land from Captain Smith in his day, and had continued to pay a rental to the estate. Others had squatted upon different portions of the rancho, and were endeavoring to hold possession of their claims until such time as the property would be put upon the market, which event they knew full well must occur sooner or later. Failing to cause the settlers to leave by peaceful means and by personal threats of violence, Curtis proceeded to San Francisco and secured the services of a horde of about forty roughs for the purpose of waging a war upon them. He purchased arms and ammunition for his motley gang, and brought them up to Petaluma on the steamer. From there he marched them out to the rancho, a distance of upwards of twenty miles, in regular soldier style. They arrived at the ranch house some time in the night, but it had become known that they were coming and what their errand was. Some Paul Revere, during the silent midnight watches, came from Petaluma and rode to every settler's house and gave the alarm. By the time the first flush of rosy dawn had illuminated the eastern sky the town was full of men, armed to the teeth with rifles and revolvers, with also a couple of small field-pieces, which happened ? to be in that vicinity at the time. Sentinels were placed around the ranch to guard their prisoners, for such indeed they were. In the morning, as soon as Curtis came out, a deputation of settlers waited upon him and requested his immediate presence in the village, stating at the same time, that if he refused, the entire force of settlers would march against his place, and that not a man would be left alive. Thinking that discretion was the better part of valor, he reluctantly complied, and accompanied the deputation. Once there, he was placed upon a goods box in mock deference to his political style of making stump speeches, and asked to explain why he had brought this crowd of roughs to his rancho. He explained what he expected to do with the men, and intimated that he expected to still carry out his original idea. He was then told that by ten o'clock that morning they would expect him to have his braves (?) en route for San Francisco, and to see that their order was obeyed a detail of thirty mounted armed men was sent along with him. He went back to his crowd of bullies and told them the turn affairs had taken, and they were only too willing to march back to Petaluma, especially when they saw the crowd of armed horsemen. And thus ended the fiasco. It cost Curtis over two thousand dollars for that day's work, and it availed him naught.

Bodega Lodge, F & A. M. - Bodega Lodge, No. 213, F. & A. M., was organized December 17, 1870. The following named gentlemen were charter members: William H. MANEFEE, A. S. PATTERSON, N. R. SHAW, L. S. GOODMAN, A. S. PERRINE, H. M. BARNHAM, C. C. ROBERTSON, G. N. SANBORN, D. HAKES, M. KIERNAN, W. W. GILHAM, E. O. STRATTON, William HAMILTON, and W. M. DORAN. The first officers were: W. H. MANEFEE, W. M.; A. S. PATTERSON, S. W.; N. R. SHAW, J. W.; L. S. GOODMAN, Treasurer; and G. N. SANBORN, Secretary. The following gentlemen have filled the office of Master: W. H. MANEFEE, A. S. PATTERSON, and James McCAUGHEY has held the position for the past six years. The present membership is fifteen. They have a very small lodge-room at present, but own a fine lot and in the near future propose to erect a large and commodious hall.

Buena Vista Lodge, I. O. G. T. - This Lodge, No. 373, was organized March 12, 1870. The meeting was called to order by Miss Emory. The charter members were: C. L. FARNSWORTH, Mrs. R. FARNSWORTH, Mrs. A. HITCHCOCK, J. W. WILCOX, J. CARSON, W. FRASER, J. J. STEWART, A. E. FRASER, C. HAWKINS, Miss M. CARSON, Miss H. WATSON, William THOMPSON, William JOHNSON, E. H. CHEENEY, H. GONDEY, S. CHEENEY, and Miss L. PERRINE. The first officers were: J. W. WILCOX, W. C. T.; Mrs. A. HITCHCOCK, W. V. T.; C. L. FARNSWORTH, W. S.; J. CARSON, W. F. S.; and R. FARNSWORTH, W. T. This Lodge had at one time as many as ninety-six members, but interest in it waned, and its charter was eventually surrendered.

No Surrender Lodge, I. O. G. T. - This Lodge, No. 375, was organized November 9, 1875, and had the following names on its charter: C. N. ANDREWS, James H. BROWN, John CUNNINGHAM, Theo. WRIGHT, Tim. KEEGAN, James PIGGOTT, John PIGGOTT, Alf. SAYTON, Cordelia A. BROWN, and Vesta NICKOLS. The first officers were: C. N. ANDREWS, W. C. T.; Vesta NICKOLS, W. V. T.; James H. BROWN, W. S.; John PIGGOTT, W. F. S.; Cordelia A. BROWN, W. T. There are at present seventeen members, and they are struggling boldly to maintain the truthfulness of their name, "No Surrender."

Catholic Church. - The first mass was celebrated in this place in March, 1860, by Rev. Father Rosse. This mass was celebrated in the school house. In October, 1860, the church building was erected, but was not dedicated until 1862 or 1863. This is a very neat church building, and serves the purpose of the congregation admirably. The following pastors have officiated here: Fathers ROSSE, ONETTA, WELCH, FAGIN, SLATTERY, KELLY, CULLEN and CUSHING.

Tanneries. - As has been stated before, the first tannery in this vicinity was put in operation by Captain Smith in 1851. This was destroyed by fire in 1863. In 1864, the old pioneer, Thomas Murray, erected a building and started a tannery about a mile north of the town. He continued to make an excellent quality of leather here for several years, but finally disposed of it to Messrs. Hecht Bros. of San Francisco, who still own it. It is conducted at present by John Collins.