FREESTONE.
This charming little village is located near the eastern line
of the township, and on the line of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, and
near the corner of three ranchos, viz: Jonive, Pogolome, and Estero
Americano. The early history of these ranchos has already been given, but a
few more points of interest are related here. James Dawson made application
for the Pogolome grant, but before it was confirmed to him he died. His wife
under her maiden name, Donna Maria Antonia Cazares, secured the confirmation
of the grant herself as the widow of Santiago (James) Dawson. This
confirmation was made by Manuel Micheltorena on the 12th day of February,
1844, and was approved by the Departmental Assembly December 26, 1845. The
grant contained eight thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight and eighty-one
one-hundredths acres. In November, 1847, F. G. Blume married Mrs. Dawson,
and the charge of the property passed into his hands. He resided in Sonoma
at that time, and was engaged in mercantile pursuits. He sent his
brother-in-law, Henry Hagler, to the ranch as his agent. Hagler, it will be
remembered, was the man who came from Baltimore with Captain Smith as a
ship's carpenter. He remained in charge until 1848, when Mr. Blume and his
wife moved upon the rancho and took charge. They have resided continuously
in the same house ever since. About this time his father-in-law, Francisco
Cazares, with his family, came up from Monterey and settled on the banks of
the Ebabias Creek. The settlers league forced Mr. Blume to sell much of his
valuable estate at nominal figures, so that he now owns but a small portion
of the original grant.
The town of Freestone derived its name
from a kind of easily worked, or, free sandstone quarry which is near the
place; this rock is used extensively for building purposes, on account of
this quality. After a town had been started and the dwellers therein were
casting about for an appropriate name, one Frank Harris bethought himself of
this freestone quarry, and at once suggested it, which, after due
consideration, was adopted. Mr. Blume had kept a small stock of goods in one
room of his residence since 1848, but the first business house erected in
the town was a saloon with a small store attached kept by Ferdinand Harbordt.
This was in 1849. Probably during the same year or the next at least, S.
Bruggerman erected a large two-story hotel, which he rented to James Dobson.
During the same year, W. H. Sailhardt built a blacksmith shop. Thomas
O'Grady also built one at the same time, but did not occupy it. At present
there is one general store, one hotel, one blacksmith shop, one carpenter
shop, one stirrup factory, one saloon, one tannery, which was put in
operation in 1878 by Jacob Shoenagel. It turns out a good quantity of
leather. The official directory is as follows: F. G. Blume, Justice of the
Peace and Postmaster; J. C. Morris, Constable; J. D. Carr, Telegraph and
Wells, Fargo & Co's agent.
The town is nicely located, and is fast
becoming popular for country residences for city people. It is within easy
reach of San Francisco.
VALLEY FORD. - This
thriving little village is situated on the Estero Americano, four miles from
its mouth. It received its name from the fact that an old Indian and Spanish
ford across this stream, was located at this place. Stephen L. and James E.
Fowler were the first settlers here, having purchased of Mr. Blume six
hundred and forty acres lying between the Estero and Ebabias creeks. In July
of 1852, they built a house about two hundred yards from the old ford. The
same year, Thos. Smith built a cabin near where John Vanderleith now lives.
Sanford & Webber located across the creek. They received a portable
grist-mill from the east, and during that Winter were kept busy grinding
grain for the neighbors. The flour was coarse and unbolted. Whitehead Fowler
and E. Thurber also located in this part of Big valley during that year.
During the next year the greater portion of the valley land was taken up. In
1854, a crop of oats, yielding one hundred bushels to the acre, was raised
on the present town site. During this year Stephen C. Fowler and his family,
consisting of his wife and sons, John H. and Nathaniel, arrived at Valley
Ford. Mrs. Fowler was the first lady resident of that section. In 1856, the
Thos. Smith mentioned above began operations with a grist-mill on a small
scale. He had two run of burrs, and used twelve horses as a motor. Two years
later a steam engine was placed in the mill, and it soon became famous for
its extra brands of flour. In the fall of 1861, Daniel Hall opened a
blacksmith shop. That same year J. H. Fowler and O. M. Perkins opened a
general merchandise business; Jas. E. Fowler opened a lumber yard, and E. B.
and J. W. Palmer built a carpenter shop. J. N. Rien built the Valley Ford
Hotel in 1864. In the summer of 1876, the North Pacific Coast Railroad
Company extended their line through the town, and erected a neat depot. This
brings the people of this place within four hours of San Francisco, instead
of the old-time tedious route via Petaluma. The population of the place is
about one hundred. There is a district school here. The present business
interests of the town are as follows: One store, one blacksmith shop, one
tin shop, one hotel, one livery stable, two physicians, one shoe shop, one
steam flour mill (owned by Huntly & Cook), and one saloon. The official
directory is as follows: P. E. Merritt, Postmaster; Brown & Le Baron, Wells,
Fargo & Co.; B. Fowler, Telegraph agent. The postoffice was established in
1875.
Valley Ford, I. O. G. T. -
This Lodge, No. 156, was organized March 2, 1865. The charter
members were: Rev. J. R. Hammond, Mary E. Stanley, Benj. Harrington, A. M.
Huntley, Miss Lizzie Mills, Geo. P. Stanley, Wm. Huntley, Rev. A. Fairbairn,
E. D. Mills, Wm. Withrow, A. J. Blainey, Mrs. C. E. Fowler, Mrs. A. E.
Huntley, and E. M. Dibble. Rev. J. R. Hammond was the first W. C. T., and
Benj. Hammond the first Sec'y. The present membership is thirty. The lodge
has always been in a flourishing condition and much interest is felt here in
the cause of temperance.
Presbyterian Church. -
This church organization was effected December 5, 1863, by Rev. Thomas
Fraser, as the Old School Presbyterian Church of Big Valley, under the
Presbytery at Benicia, and the Synod of the Pacific Coast. The organizing
members were Stephen C. Fowler, Mrs. Rebecca Fowler, Mrs. Mary J. Palmer,
Mrs. Olivia N. Gordon, Mrs. Elizabeth Pettit, Mrs. Laura Meacham, Miss
Olivia E. Meacham, G. W. Case, Mrs. Adelaide L. Case, Mrs. Hannah N. Hall,
Mrs. H. Cain and Mrs. Sarah B. Palmer. The following named pastors have
served the church since its organization: Reverends Jas. S. Wylie, Lewis
Thompson, C. H. Crawford, H. R. Avery, R. McCulloch, and Hugh McLeod. The
present neat church edifice was erected in the winter of 1865-6. The present
membership is thirty-three.
OCCIDENTAL. - This is a
beautiful little village situated in a most delightful location. It is on
the line of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, at the point where it crosses
the divide between the waters which flow into the O'Farrell valley on the
south, and into the Russian River, through Howard's canon, on the north.
From this fact the place is also called Summit. The railroad company, have
named the station Howard's in honor of William Howard, the oldest settler
living in that section and on whose land a portion of the town is situated.
The other portion of the town is built upon land belonging to M. C. Meeker.
The first start of this town was far different from most California towns,
and we hasten to record the fact that the first building in the place was a
church. The committee who were appointed to choose a location for the
proposed church building met, and after selecting the site, took into
consideration what name they should give to it. They decided upon
Occidental. The postoffice was also petitioned for under that name, hence
the place is mentioned indifferently as Howard's Station, Meekers, Summit,
and Occidental. The town lies in the heart of a redwood forest, and the old
stumps still stand in the streets. One hundred and twenty thousand shingles
were made out of a tree which stood on the town site. The church building
mentioned above was erected in 1876. That same year the railroad reached
this point, and the first passenger train arrived here October 16, 1876. M.
C. Meeker erected a hotel building which was occupied by J. W. Noble. He
began operations in January, 1877. The first store was opened by McCaughey &
Co., April 4, 1877. Other buildings followed in rapid succession, nearly all
being built in 1877. There are twenty-four buildings in the town, of which
all but seven were erected by the enterprising milling firm of Meeker Bros.
The very first permanent settler in this
immediate section was Michael Kolmer. He arrived in California in 1846,
having with him his family, consisting of his wife, two daughters and one
son. They spent that winter at Sutter's Fort, then went to Fort Ross, and
spent the year of 1847. In 1848, he came down and leased land of Captain
Smith, on the Bodega Rancho. This tract of land was located about two and
one-half miles west of the present site of Howard's Station, in what is
known as Coleman Valley. The original name was Kolmer Valley, taking its
appellation from the Kolmer family. It has since been modified to Coleman.
One of his daughters married William Howard, and still resides with her
husband at their homestead near Occidental. The other daughter married
William Benitz, and is now residing in the Argentina Republic. A man named
Patrick McCue was the next settler. He located in a little valley just east
of Howard's Station in 1849. McCue came to California in 1847, with Samuel
Brannan and the Mormons in the ship "Brooklyn." He came up to Bodega and
worked at the blacksmith business for some time for Captain Smith, on his
rancho and at his mill. He soon, however, came to the mill run by James
Black and others, near the present site of Freestone. He followed his trade
here for a while, and finally settled as stated above. In 1852, he left the
country. The next permanent settler was William Howard, who came to
California in 1848, and located on his present homestead in 1849. He was the
first settler who actually owned the land he was upon, and is the only old
settler who still resides in this vicinity. Mr. Howard had a partner by the
name of Charles Romer. They remained together till 1855. During the next few
years several squatters came and went, but none made permanent homes. From
that time on till the advent of the railroad, nothing occurred to cause a
ripple upon the even tenor of its way. The town has assumed quite an
importance as a shipping point, cord-wood, fence-posts, tan-bark, and
charcoal form the bulk of the exports.
Methodist Episcopal Church. - The Occidental (M. E.) church edifice
was erected in 1876, but a church organization was not effected till the
following year. The present membership is thirty-five. The following
ministers have served the people at this place: Revs. A. WINNING, D. E.
GEORGE, A. K. SHERIFF, H. E. TALLMAN, C. S. MILNES.
Salmon
Creek Lodge, I. O. O. F. - This Lodge, No. 234, was organized
August 2, 1875, at Bodega Corners, and was moved to Occidental, May 25,
1878. The charter members were: J. K. SMITH, G. C. TAYLOR, J. H. BROWN, A.
WILLIS, David ROBINSON, H. SAMSEL, W. J. LEWIS, L. F. WORMELL, and J.
SUTTER. The first officers were: J. K. SMITH, N. G.; G. C. TAYLOR, V. G.; J.
H. BROWN, Secretary; and D. ROBINSON, Treasurer. The following members have
filled the position of N. G.: J. K. SMITH, James H. BROWN, G. C. TAYLOR, L.
F. WORMELL, W. RAMSDALE, J. WORRY, S. McCRADY, and I. C. PERRY. The present
officers are: I. C. PERRY, N. G.; Thomas MURRAY, V. G.; D. J. CARR,
Secretary; and W. LIGHT, Treasurer. The present membership is fifty-four.
The Lodge is in a very flourishing condition. They have a very neat
lodge-room.
Altamont Lodge, I. O. G. T. -
Altamont Lodge, No. 374, I. O. G. T., was chartered June 2, 1877,
with the following original members: I. C. PERRY, Mrs. H. M. PERRY, J. D.
CONLEY, Mrs. G. G. BLAINEY, Rev. D. E. GEORGE, Mrs. E. GEORGE, D. P. RICE,
H. P. HURLBURT, T. J. ALLEY, R. M. SHAFFER, G. W. SHUSTER, F. W. GIFFORD, W.
RIMA, Mrs. R. STONE, Miss M. B. HAUFSTADER, Miss A. HURLBURT, Miss H.
HURLBURT, Mrs. F. A. ROLLISON, and H. HURLBURT. The first officers were: T.
J. ALLEY, W. C. T.; Mrs. E. GEORGE, W. V. T.; H. P. HURLBURT, Secretary; and
Mrs. F. A. ROLLISON, Treasurer. In due of time the interest in the cause of
temperance began to wane, and the charter was finally surrendered in May,
1878. Since that time there has been no move in the cause of temperance.
The business interests of the town are
represented as follows: One hotel, two stores, two saloons, one blacksmith
shop, one livery stable, one feed store, two meet markets, one shoe shop,
one barber shop, and one physician. The population is about one hundred. The
official directory is: O. Collister, Notary Public; Telegraph and Wells,
Fargo & Co's agent, _____________; A. J. Blainey, Postmaster. The Occidental
postoffice was established December 7, 1876, with the present incumbent as
postmaster. There is a public school in the town, which was established in
1878. There is a nice new school-house located just at the southern
entrance to the town.
Saw-Mills. - As has
already been stated, the first attempt to make lumber in this township was
made by James Dawson, in 1835, with a saw-pit and hand rip-saw. The first
mill was that of Captain Smith, which was the first steam saw-mill in
California, established in 1843. The next saw-mill was located on the Jonive
Rancho, and was put in operation sometime previous to 1849. This mill was
situated on the little creek which passes through Freestone, very near the
present site of the town, and was run by water power. Edward M. McIntosh,
James Black, Thomas Butters, William Leighton, Frederick Hegel, Thomas Wood,
and a pioneer who was known by the peculiar name of "Blinking Tom," put the
mill in operation. In 1849, it is said they disposed of their mill and
lumber to F. G. Blume, and went to the mines. The next milling enterprise
was inaugurated in 1848, and was known as the "Benicia" or Blumedale Mill
and Lumber Company." This company was composed of mechanics who were at work
on the Government barracks at Benicia. Charles McDermot was President and
John Bailiff, Secretary; Lieutenant, now General George Stoneman, and a Mr.
McKnight, and others, were members of the company. F. G. Blume rented the
land to this company, hence the name of "Blumedale." It was a circular saw
and the power was steam. It was put in operation in 1849. The site of the
mill was on Ebabias creek, about one mile south of Freestone. The next mill
built was what is now known as the Joy Mill. It was put in operation in
1855, by three brothers by the name of Thurston. It is located northward
from Bodega Corners, and is still standing on the original site, and is
doing good service yet. It has a capacity of about three thousand feet per
day. Messrs. Mudge, Phelps, and Perkins, the parties who purchased Captain
Smith's mill, and leased the timber land for ninety-nine years, moved their
mill, in 1859, to a site about one mile south of Occidental. In 1862, they
removed it to Mendocino County. In 1866, M. C. Meeker put his mill in
operation. It is located near the old site of the last named mill, south of
Occidental. It is a fine mill, and has a capacity of fifteen thousand feet
daily. There is one pair of double saws in it, the bottom saw being sixty
inches in diameter, and the top one fifty-eight. It is also supplied with a
full outfit of all the necessary machinery and appliances to make it a
first-class mill in every respect. In 1867, Mr. Smith built a mill in
Coleman Valley. It has a capacity of twelve thousand feet, and is a
first-class mill.
This township is situated in the extreme
north of Sonoma, borders on Lake county, and is famous for its picturesque
scenery. Through it the Russian River flows, leaving a tract of rare
fertility on either bank, while it is backed by a range of hills which,
though they produce no trees, grows an abundance of grass. Upon these,
thousands of sheep are pastured, the raising of this stock being its
principal industry.
Cloverdale. - This is the
only town in the township, and had its commencement in this wise: In the
year 1856, R. B. Markle and W. J. Miller purchased eight hundred and fifty
acres, which included the present site of Cloverdale, from Johnson Horrell,
who claimed a portion of the Rancho de Musalacon. In 1859, J. A. Kleiser,
bought the property of the above named parties and, in October of that year,
had the site surveyed and the town laid out by J. B. Wood, County Surveyor.
It was named Cloverdale - a happy departure from the peculiar mining names
or Indian appellations then in vogue - but by whom, it has never been fully
established; the evidence, however, is in favor that Mrs. R. B. Markle was
the fair sponsor.
A man name Levi Rosenburg opened the first
store in this part of the country, on the east side of Russian River, near
its confluence with Sulphur Creek, some time early in 1856. In October of
that year, J. H. Hartman and F. G. Hahman of Santa Rosa conceived the idea
of establishing a trading post at Markle's place - by which name Cloverdale
was then known - it being on the route taken by travellers to Mendocino and
Humboldt. The first hotel was opened by R. B. Markle about this time in the
house now occupied by John Fields on East street, and was called the
Cloverdale Hotel. On Kleiser becoming possessed of the property he succeeded
Markle in the hotel business as well, and kept it for one year from
September, 1859. The first house within the town of Cloverdale was an adobe,
owned by a Spaniard, and situated on the eminence south of Mr. Kleiser's
house, on land now owned by William Colwell. In 1859, Hartman & Hahman
disposed of their business to Levi & Co.; others came in, but the growth of
the town was next to nil. It was not until the arrival of the railroad that
matters mended, then a reaction set in.
On February 28, 1872, an act incorporating
the town of Cloverdale was approved and the limits described to be as under,
to wit: -
Commencing at the mouth of a certain creek
where it empties into Russian River, on the west side of said river, at or
near where the road leading from Cloverdale to Clear Lake crosses said
Russian River, and continuing up the center of said creek until it strikes
the north-west corner of the lands of John Otis; thence in a southerly
direction along the Wamboldt and Kleiser line fence, and still continuing in
said direction until it strikes the south-west corner of Dr. Ramey's lot of
land, and then in an easterly direction to the south-west corner of
Blakeley's land; thence northerly to Kleiser's picket fence, being the line
fence between Caldwell's and Kleiser's land; thence following said fence to
Russian River; thence up said river to place of beginning.
Under this Act the following were appointed
Trustees in May, 1872: Harry Kiser, Amasa Morse, John Field, W. E. Crigler
and Theodore Harper.
The town is cozily nestled among the hills and
possesses a number of neat residences, more in proportion than in most
places of no greater population. There are a Congregational, a Methodist
Church South, and a Catholic Church. The public school is a well constructed
building, presenting with its shade of native oaks, a very attractive
appearance, besides which the Masonic, Oddfellows and United Workmen orders
are represented. The Cloverdale Water Works, under the management of J. A.
Carrie, supply the town with water sufficient for all demands, while it
boasts of one newspaper, an excellent journal.
In the Spring of 1872, W. J. Bowman started the
Cloverdale Review. Soon after S. B. Bacus commenced the publication
of the Cloverdale Bee. In November, 1876, the Cloverdale News
was given to the public by W. S. Walker, who now owns and conducts the
Cloverdale Reveille.
First Congregational Church. -
The outgrowth of this church was from the labors of Rev. James S. Burger, a
missionary of the American Home Mission Society, who commenced his labors in
that district on November 1, 1868. A congregation was organized by Rev.
James H. Warren, D. D., then agent in California for that society, on
January 17, 1869, consisting of the following members: Rev. James S. Burger
and Mrs. Burger, Mrs. Charles Cooley, Mrs. J. A. Carrie, Mrs. H. F. Gerkhart,
Mrs. Sarah Hall, and Mrs. John Edwards. It was then resolved to erect a
place of worship, and a building committee appointed, consisting of David C.
Brush, Charles H. Cooley, James A. Kleiser, Thomas S. Calvin, and Harry
Kier. This edifice was commenced in 1870 and completed during the following
year, being situated in Block L, West street, and cost about two thousand
five hundred dollars. It is thirty by fifty feet, and has a belfry, in which
hangs a well-toned bell, presented by J. B. Ford, of Mendocino City, but now
a resident of Brooklyn, Alameda County, which cost three hundred dollars.
In July, 1870, Rev. James S. Burger resigned the
pastorate, when a call was accepted by Rev. E. Jones, who preached his first
sermon in September of that year. March 27, 1871, Mr. Jones resigned, and
was succeeded by Rev. D. I. Williams, of Shillsbury, Wis., who took charge
of the church as acting pastor; he left in May, and on July 14, 1871, Rev.
William J. Clark entered upon the duties of acting pastor. In the month of
March, 1872, Dr. Warren, of San Francisco, presented a beautiful silver
communion set, as a gift from the Congregational Church of Oakland; August
18th, of this year, Mr. Clark sent in his resignation, and on the 3d of
October, G. F. G. Morgan was elected pastor for one year; He, however,
preached but a short time. when an invitation was extended to the Rev. A. F.
Hitchcock, dated October 13, 1872. Mr. Hitchcock not accepting the call, it
was sent to J. J. Powell, of Rio Vista, on December 1st; he commenced his
duties on December 4, 1872. On May 8, 1875, Mr. Powell resigned. On June 6th
Isaac W. Atherton was called to the pastorate; on July 4th, he accepted it
and forthwith commenced his labors. He resigned September 30, 1877. December
30th of that year, Rev. S. P. Whiting, the present pastor, was called to
undertake the duties.
At a meeting held in January, 1879, Miss
Sarah Miner was elected Clerk, and is the present holder of that office. The
membership is thirty-six, while the attendance at the Sabbath-school, of
which Henry Hoskins is the Superintendent, is about fifty.
Catholic Church. - This
church commenced holding services about the year 1870, in the Cloverdale
Hotel and other places till 1878, when the present beautiful little church
on block A, corner of Main and Broad Streets, was erected. It was dedicated,
May 7, 1870, by Archbishop Alemany of San Francisco. Services are held once
a month by Father J. M. Conway of Santa Rosa.
SOCIETIES. - CURTIS LODGE NO. 160, F. and A. M. - This Lodge
commenced work under dispensation, August 8, 1859, with William H. Hollis,
W. M.; Eli Lester, S. W.; T. J. Gould, J. W.; J. B. Estess, Treasurer;
Thomas Johnson, Secretary; James Ramey, S. D.; N. L. Morrey, J. D.; Samuel
Larson, Tyler, who with J. W. Belden were charter members. The first
meetings were held in a building now occupied by Charles Cook as a saloon in
block J. On May 10, 1860, the charter was granted. In the summer of 1870,
the lodge moved into a building, the first one north from their former room,
where they are now located. The officers for the present term are: H. Kier,
W. M.; Charles H. Cooley, S. W.; Charles Bean, J. W.; J. A. Carrie,
Treasurer; D. N. Wambold, Secretary; Lars H. Woolford, S. D.; C. A.
Williams, J. D.; Thomas Johnson, Tyler.
CLOVERDALE LODGE, No. 193, I. O. O. F. -
This Lodge was organized December 2, 1871, with R. A. Zimmerman, N. G.; J.
L. Dougherty, V. G.; Jasper A. Linville, Recording Secretary; F. D. Mize,
Treasurer; who were with Philip How, the charter members. This meeting was
held in the Masonic Hall, opposite the United States Hotel, continuing there
to convene until February 1, 1875, when they leased the brick building
adjoining the above hotel, belonging to D. Chamberlain, situated on Lot No.
40, block C., and fitted the upper story as a lodge-room, where they are now
located. Their day of meeting had from its organization up to the month of
September, 1876, been every Monday; since that time it has been changed to
Saturday evening of each week. The lodge is in a flourishing condition, and
has for its present officers: Frank Spencer, N. G.; L. R. Standley, V. G.;
P. Ludwig, Secretary; Neil Anker, Treasurer. The average membership is
thirty-five.
CLOVERDALE LODGE, No. 32, A. O. U. W. -
The Lodge of Ancient Order of United Workmen at Cloverdale was granted its
charter May 3, 1878, the following being the officers at the time: Isaac E.
Shaw, P. M. W.; C. A. Williams M. W.; W. D. Sink, G. F.; W. F. Brush, O.; C.
H. Bean, Recorder; J. A. Carrie, Financier; J. F. Hoadley, Receiver; John B.
Cooley, Guide; W. N. Waite, I. W.; Frank Spencer, O. W. The lodge meets
every Monday evening in the hall of I. O. O. F., and is in a prosperous
condition. The officers elected for the term ending December 31, 1879 are:
W. D. Sink, P. M. W.; Neil Anker, M. W.; C. H. Bean, Recorder; E. A. Hoadley,
Financier; J. F. Hoadley, Receiver; C. F. French, G. F.; W. N. Waite, O.;
Charles Phillips, G.; C. A. Williams, I. W.; John B. Cooley, O. W.
Schools. - The first
school was opened in the year 1861, on the site of the present house, and
was built by J. A. Kleiser. The building wherein instruction is now carried
on is twenty-four by sixty feet, constructed of wood, and is two stories
high. It is a graded school, the teachers being: W. H. Haskins, principal;
Mary J. Field, first assistant; Mary E. Minor, Second assistant; and Eva J.
Emory, third assistant.
Cloverdale Water Works. -
This company was established in the Summer of 1872, the books being opened
in September of that year. The water is brought from Carrie's ranch, a
distance of two-and-a-half miles, and has a fall of three hundred feet, with
one break in the entire length. The company supplies, besides the dwelling
houses, the sprinkling cart and fire department, there being sufficient
force to make it thoroughly effective in such an emergency. The enterprise
was started by F. W. Lougee, Josiah Moulton, and J. A. Carrie, who is the
manager of the works, and from whose property the supply is obtained.
HOTELS. - CLOVERDALE
HOTEL. - Was erected in the year 1858, by R. W. Dodge, and managed by him
and others until October 5, 1872, when M. Menihan leased the building,
having made considerable additions thereto since that time. The building is
situated on West street, and is the starting place of stages for all parts
of the country, the proprietor being agent for the Geyser Springs and
Mendocino stage line.
UNITED STATES HOTEL. - In the year 1859
thirty-six by twenty-four feet of this building was constructed, comprised
in two stories of brick, with kitchen addition; to this was added in 1865
two stories adjoining, thirty-three by forty, of the same material, and as
necessity demanded the following additions have been since made. In 1873 a
barber-shop and saloon, two stories of thirty by sixty feet, and in 1875 a
kitchen thirty-three by sixty-four feet. The building is located on Block C,
Lots thirty-eight and thirty-nine, corner of West and Second Streets, and
has a frontage on the former of one hundred, and on the latter one hundred
and eight feet. A spacious verandah occupies its entire length on both
thoroughfares while the dining-room, which is on Second street, is a square
room capable of accommodating a hundred guests. The United States Hotel was
built by H. F. Gerkhart, who is still its proprietor, at a cost, as it now
stands, of forty thousand dollars, and is replete with every comfort for the
permanent as well as the transient guest.
The Cloverdale Reveille. -
This newspaper made its appearance in the first week of October,
1879, W. S. Walker being the publisher and proprietor. The Cloverdale
News was started in November, 1876, by the same gentleman, but in the
following April he disposed of his interest to J. F. Hoadly, who continued
its publication until the Spring of the present year, when he removed the
office to Santa Rosa, running it in the interest of the New Constitution
party, at which place he suspended its publication in September, 1879. Mr.
Walker then purchased the material, removed it to Cloverdale and the
Reveille made its appearance as above stated. It is a well printed and
readable sheet with every promise of a bright future before it.
KNIGHT'S VALLEY
__________
This township is the
largest in the county and is situated in the northeast of Sonoma, rounding
off to the north-west. It is diversified with every imaginable phase of
scenery from the park-like plains of the valleys, dotted with groves and
sprinkled with beautiful homes, to the bold mountain-land pine covered to
their summits, thickly clothed with almost impenetrable brush-wood, until
culminating in high, rocky peaks. From the summit of Geyser Peak, a high
mountain, situated on the border of the adjoining township of Washington, a
prospect of the most ravishing order is mapped out at our feet. At a glance
the large main valley through which the San Francisco and North Pacific
Railroad runs, is taken in, from the shore of the San Pablo Bay, to its
terminus at Cloverdale. The prosperous towns of Cloverdale, Geyserville,
Healdsburg, Windsor, Fulton, Santa Rosa, and Petaluma are easily
distinguished, while a little to the east of south we look upon the
world-renowned Sonoma Valley. At the foot of Mount St. Helena, we have the
fertile Knight's Valley, while to add completeness to the scene, the Russian
River may be followed, flowing through the district in many a beautiful
meander, appearing like a silver thread, as the sun glances upon its bosom,
until lost in the arms of the Great Pacific.
The earliest permanent white settler in
Mendocino township was Cyrus Alexander. As has been shown in our history of
Russian River township, his agreement with Captain Fitch had lapsed from
time, and he took up his residence on that part of the Sotoyome grant lying
on the east side of Russian river, including the land from the river's
channel to the boundary line of the said grant, comprising the fertile
valley which has since borne his name, situated along the foot-hills, north
and east, far enough to include two Spanish leagues. This was in 1845, but
the title to the property he did not receive until September, 1847. On
taking possession he commenced to erect himself a permanent residence, but
waiting for the hardening of sundried bricks was too slow a process; he
therefore began the erection of a redwood building similar to that
described, in another place, in a situation of much natural beauty and
advantage, the structure being placed on an eminence near to which flowed a
stream of crystal water, which found its source in a large hill behind,
while to the east of the location were numbers of living springs, all
offering magnificent advantages for a permanent settlement. Here he
commenced the labors of reclaiming ground which he tilled with a primitive
plow, already noted elsewhere. At his new home he planted, in 1846, a few
grapevines, as well as some apple and peach seeds, which, as soon as they
showed above ground, he irrigated with water procured from the stream close
by, while the construction of the adobe house was proceeded with in the dry
season, covering it with a roof of shingles which he procured from the
adjacent forests. As the cultivation of wheat increased, Alexander bethought
him of the necessity of erecting a flour or grist-mill, and at once set to
work to consider the ways and means. Some suitable rock was found east of
the position now occupied by the town of Healdsburg, but difficult to obtain
on account of being situated high up on a mountain side. A Spaniard was
therefore hired, who from these cut mill-stones, making them about two feet
in diameter, and afterwards dragged them down to level ground by means of a
horse and lariat, whence they were conveyed on the primitive wagon already
mentioned; the site for the mill being chosen on the stream by which stood
his dwelling. Let us describe this, the earliest flour-mill in the district;
The frame work on which the machinery should rest was made of timber
procured from the redwoods; the water-wheel was about the size of an
ordinary washing tub, provided with arms for the water flowing out of a
large discharge sluice, conveyed from a dam above, to strike against. Set in
the wheel and perpendicular with the arms was the main shaft, and on the
upper end of it the spindle - probably the one mentioned as having been
forwarded by Captain Fitch* - the spindle being connected by a trundle to
the stone.
The stream furnished water sufficient to work the mill only
in the rainy season; but it proved a success, and a source of comfort as
well, for the neighboring rancheros were wont to make use of it as well as
the proprietor. The mill was not large enough to admit of a bolting cloth,
had such a thing been procurable then; a substitute was, however, found in a
piece of canvas, about five feet long and one wide, stretched on a frame,
with a slide made of slats for the bolting frame to move backwards and
forwards upon. In this simple manner was the first mill completed, and good
flour turned out, in the township now under consideration. This, however,
was not the only improvement made at this early period by our ingenious
pioneer. He made a mould in which he manufactured bricks from adobe clay; he
procured shells from the sea-beach that he burned in a kiln, also made out
of the ever useful adobe, which he turned into lime, these he employed in
the construction of that house, wherein now resides his widow, the partner
of these early times; when finished, at the epoch of which we write, it was
eighty feet long, twenty feet wide, and twelve feet high, the walls being
two feet thick, all of solid adobe.
The year 1846 was a noted one in the
annals of California, for it was then that immigration to the Pacific coast
took any shape among the people of the Atlantic, and more western States.
Among those who started for this then little known country were the GORDONS,
MORROW, STOREY, and W. J. MARCH, who all found their way to the Russian
River Valley and in 1848 settled on land now comprised in this township. As
month
______________________________________________________________________
* VIDE History of Russian River Township.
followed month, and year succeeded year, so did the
population increase. In 1849 arrived Wm. T. Allen and others; in 1851,
Richard E. Lewis and many more. In these years the gold fever had stocked
California with Denizens from every known part of the globe; every tongue
spoken on the face of the globe was to be heard in the gold mines, while all
were bent on acquiring a large and rapid fortune. Failure or success caused
many to leave the pursuit of treasure and look for somewhere to settle and
thus in the next five years every portion of the State received a marvelous
increase to the number of its residents. In Mendocino township the few
residents that were not taken with the gold disorder, watched carefully
passing events and tilled their ground, and planted their produce, waiting
for a certain harvest of dust. Our old pioneer Cyrus ALEXANDER knew that
wealth was now within his grasp; he sent his cattle to the mines and there
received fabulous prices for them. In the summer of 1850 he succeeded in
raising a good crop of large sized onions - about two tons in all; these he
dispatched to the mines by an ox-team and cleared about twelve hundred
dollars on the venture by retailing them at from forty to seventy-five cents
per pound. Hogs flesh had been up to that time a scarce commodity; they had
been, however, introduced by Alexander in 1850 or before then. At any rate,
in that year a drover named OLMSTEAD came from the mines and wanted to
strike a bargain with Alexander for certain pigs, the price wanted being
fifty dollars each. This was too great a sum, thought the drover, he
therefore asked the weight of the porker, but there were no weights or
scales to be had; he, however, hit upon an ingenious and certainly novel
plan to ascertain his wish. He inquired if there was any wheat on the ranch,
and after being informed that there was, he remarked: "Put a rail through
the fence and fasten a hog on one end with a sack of wheat on the other and
see if it will balance." Alexander interrogated him as to how he would know
the weight of the sack of wheat. "Oh," said Olmstead, "I can guess at that,"
on which he received the reply: "Then why not guess the weight of the hog in
the first place." This was not so certain a matter for the drover, however;
he had been a wheat grower in Illinois and was posted in the weight of sacks
of the staple, but the ponderosity of live pork was beyond his ken. The
chances were entirely in favor of the vendor in this instance for it would
have taken more than one sack of wheat to poise the hog, while it is an
ascertained fact that wheat to the sack in California weighs heavier than it
does in Illinois. For these animals Alexander received one thousand dollars
for twenty, being at the rate of fifty dollars a piece. '
It would appear that a saw-mill had been erected on Mill Creek about this
period, for we find Alexander procuring lumber and building a barn as well
as making additions to his house. This lumber he obtained in exchange for
hogs, the commodity at that time being worth seventy-five dollars per
thousand feet, and a gelt, i. e. a pig that has never had a litter, being
appraised at the same price, the barter therefore was easily effected. In
the year 1851 commenced a series of squatting troubles in this section of
the county. Some of the immigrants coming to the Russian River valley at
this period cast longing eyes upon the fertile lands of Alexander Valley,
and taking it for granted that they knew all the intracacies of the land law
as relating to California, occupied such portions as they had a mind to;
among others who were thus honored by the presence of self-invited guests
was Cyrus Alexander. With these, however, he never quarrelled, but would
simply warn them off, advising them of the consequences should they remain.
As a rule they went away quietly, Alexander always paying them a fair price
for any improvements made. Afterwards, finding that his property was
absolutely needed by those who would pay for it, he concluded to dispose of
all his wild cattle and have the ranch surveyed. This he did, dividing it
into two reserves, and offering the remainder for sale in lots to suit
purchasers. The valley in this way became soon peopled by immigrants from
Illinois, Iowa, Tennessee, Missouri, Indiana, and New York. This move did
not relieve Mr. Alexander of the squatters, however, for we find that in
1856 they once more commenced to molest him, one actually encamping in a
field of standing wheat, and was not got rid of until threatened by the
sheriff. The night before he took his departure the barn was burned with all
its contents, it containing at the time his crop of grain which had been
just threshed, the threshing machine, fan mills, plows, grain cradles,
rakes and various other farm implements; a rick of grain near the barn also
being consumed. Before closing the annals of Mendocino township let us here
relate the following amusing annecdote, as the subject of it will be
remembered by many an old resident. In 1851 Alexander was on the point of
remodeling his residence, and in the course of his operations to that end he
found that the wheat which had lain next to the wall in his bin had become
heated, musty, and therefore spoiled, a portion of it being alive with black
weavils. It was unfit for seed wheat or flour, so he was at his wits' end
what to make of it. An unlooked for market soon presented itself. An old man
named Miller, who had crossed the plains a year or so before, had brought
with him some of the machinery of a distillery which he had erected. He had
heard of the damaged wheat, but thinking that it might still be good enough
to make whisky of, purchased the entire quantity, and succeeded in
manufacturing if not a good, at any rate an appreciated article. Miller and
his wife, Aunt Katie, as she was generally called, were both partial to a
dram, but they could not always command a supply, for grain was not to be
forever had, besides the price of grain was high, and whisky would
occasionally be scarce, even in distillery.
On one occasion, as the men folks were
leaving for some other part of the county, on the hard work of a Fourth of
July celebration, they were much concerned as to how to dispose of a jug of
the crathur which was in the house. From her known propensities, it
was deemed impolite to leave Aunt Katie at home in company with the jug, so
one of the number, quick of resources and lithe of limb, climbed up a tree,
and unobserved by Kate, tied it securely far out of reach of his thirsty
friend. Not long after their departure, Auntie's natural and, on this
occasion, national thirst required assauging. She, therefore, cast about in
search of the treasure, but it was nowhere to be found. She suspected that
she had been made the victim of some diabolical treachery, and, therefore,
prospected all the more keenly, till, at last, a glimpse of the lost jar was
caught, as it cosily nestled among the leaves, but, oh! so far beyond her
reach. A quarter of an hour's cogitation solved the riddle of how to gain
the prize. With methodic precision she carried out a large wash-tub, and
having taken correct bearings, placed it immediately beneath the jug, and
next, procuring her husband's rifle, she took deliberate aim, bang went the
charge, the bullet pierced the target, the liquor trickled into the tub,
Aunt Katie regaled herself, and was found, on the return of the party, in
affectionate proximity to what remained of her favorite tipple, having had
as much "independence" as was good for her.
We now come to a portion of our
chronicles on which it is a pleasure to dwell, for nowhere has the
beneficent influences of religion been felt to such advantage as among the
pioneers of every newly-opened country.
In the year 1852, there were a number of
settlements throughout the county which naturally commenced to attract the
attention of the different religious bodies. The first preacher to visit
this district was the Rev. A. L. S. BATEMAN of Ohio. His circuit included
all the country from Petaluma to Big River, a distance of one hundred and
fifty miles. In Alexander Valley he found several Methodist families, and
here he was encouraged to make one of his stopping places, Cyrus Alexander
giving up the best room in his house wherein to hold services. In the
following year Mr. Bateman returned to this field with instructions to build
a church, if such were practicable. He selected Alexander Valley as the most
suitable position, and with most substantial aid from the Alexander family
and other residents, a small house of worship was constructed, a Sunday
School being shortly after organized in the same building. This edifice was
unfortunately destroyed by fire about ten years later, it is thought by an
incendiary. In 1853, a day school had also been established in the same
building, but finding that it was not central enough, Cyrus Alexander, at
his own expense, built another on his own land, and offered it to his
neighbors for their especial benefit. He assisted them also with money to
employ teachers and to maintain the school, which is still standing, and
known as "Pine Grove," it being used as a place of tuition on week days and
a church on Sunday. The Rev. Mr. Bateman, from the size of his circuit,
could not visit the valley oftener than once in two weeks, therefore,
arrangements were made with the Rev. James Woods to undertake the work, and
as an inducement for him to settle among them with his family, and aid in
sustaining the school, Alexander presented him with a rich farm.