THE SPRINGS AND MINES OF SONOMA
COUNTY
THE SPRINGS. - The Geysers. - Of all the
noted places in Sonoma County, indeed on the Pacific coast, the most famous
is The Geysers, which are located in the Mayacmas range of mountains which
separate this from Lake and Napa. They are one thousand seven hundred feet
above the level of the sea, placed among scenery which absolutely defies
description. It is positively a most "uncanny" place.
These springs and their healing properties were
long known to the Indians, there being jet still known as the Indian
sweat-bath, where the rheumatic patient was wont to be brought and laid upon
a scaffold, or temporary grating, immediately over the spring, and steamed
until cured or relieved by death from his sufferings.
On one occasion, in the month of April, 1847,
William B. Elliott, mentioned elsewhere as having a ranch on Mark West
creek, was, in company with a son, on a hunting expedition. Tracking a bear
to the summit of the opposite mountains, where they lost him, they observed
smoke arising in such volumes that they mistook it for a large Indian
rancherie. After continuing it for a space and seeing no signs of human
life, they descended the mountain, and found on arriving on a flat plot of
ground their further progress barred by a huge grizzley, which the fearless
hunters soon dispatched. On this level clearing the first house at the
Geysers was erected by M. Levy, and was known as the Old Homestead, and was
remarkable for having on its site a wild grapevine measuring twelve inches
in diameter. In the year 1854, Major Ewing built a cloth house on the
position now occupied by the present hotel, where he was joined by Levy, who
found the situation more eligible than his own, and shortly after a saw-mill
was constructed, a portion of the hotel now in use being built from lumber
sawed by it.
Colonel A. C. Godwin, now deceased, but then a
merchant in Geyersville, a small town situated in Washington township,
obtained an interest in the property shortly after its settlement, and from
his genial manners and personal magnetism, was the means of attracting many
visitors to the spot.
We are indebted to Mr. Robert A. Thompson's
interesting work on Sonoma County for the following information: -
"The first route to the springs was through
Knight's valley to the foot of the mountain, in stages, then on horseback by
a narrow trail over the mountain. William McDonald, still a resident of
Knight's valley, acted as guide. Levy kept the hotel during Colonel Godwin's
ownership; he was succeeded by Major Ewing, and Major Ewing by H. Utting.
After Mr. Utting the place changed hands nearly every year, and the hotel
was kept successively by Coe & Baxter, Clark Foss, and F. H. Coe. In 1866 it
was rented by Major Shafer, who kept it until 1870; he was succeeded by J.
C. Susenbeth, who remained there three years. B. S. Hollingsworth was the
lessee for the years 1874-5-6 and 7; he was succeeded in April of that year
by W. Forsyth, the present proprietor. The first register kept at the
springs was in the year 1854, and there are but twenty names upon it. From
that time on the number increased every year until 1875, when three thousand
five hundred names were enrolled.
"The first wagon-road made to the Geysers was
from Healdsburg, over what is called the Hog's Back ridge. On the 15th of
May, 1861, R. C. Flournoy drove a double team and buggy over the new road,
and to him belongs the credit of taking the first wheeled vehicle of any
kind to the Geyser springs. He was accompanied by a lady, and reached the
hotel at eleven o'clock, P. M., without breaking a bolt. The main trail to
the Geysers was over this road until 1869, when a toll-road was built from
Knight's valley, and a stage line put on that route. In 1874, the toll-road
from Cloverdale up Sulphur creek, was built, and opened the following
season. Of all the roads to the Geysers, that from Healdsburg, over the
Hog's Back, is the most interesting and beautiful. It follows the crest of
the high ridge separating the waters of Big and Little Sulphur creeks,
passing close under the shadow of Geyser Peak, affording a view of the
great Russian River valley and the sea beyond, unsurpassed anywhere in its
breadth, variety, and beauty. There are other roads in to the springs from
Lake county, and there is also a good trail from Geyserville."
As has been said above, in former days the
route used by way of Foss' station, situated in a small, secluded valley -
the beau-ideal of sequestered loveliness. Thence it lay principally
up hill for four miles, whence a descent was made to Little Pluton river,
which was forded, and the ascent continued until the "upper station" was
reached, six miles from Foss' and the same distance from the Geysers. From
the Little Pluton to this point, the road lay through timber of various
varieties - oak, madrona, manzanita, and much undergrowth. The timber,
however, was soon left, and in a few minutes longer the highest point on the
road was reached, about three thousand feet above the ocean (Healdsburg is
one hundred and twenty feet above the sea level). The most thrilling portion
of the journey was then commenced. Down the road went upon the Hog's Back, a
narrow ridge, winding hither and thither, up hill and down, for two miles,
appearing almost impossible for horses to stand on the side of the hill, but
still they would creep up with a slow and hardly perceptible motion. The
summit of one hill gained, they would madly dash down another; to the right,
and within a foot, the brink of a precipice fearful to behold; to the left,
a high rock, reaching up hundreds of feet. Now they dash around the hill,
the leaders trotting to the extreme outer edge of the road and apparently
going over the brink, to whirl around just in the nick of time. Anon, there
is a hill on the right and a steep gorge on the left, and then again a
yawning gulf on either side, the ridge on which the road runs being in
places not seven feet wide.
What a gorgeous panorama is there to be seen
from the highest point of the road. In the immediate foreground are the
steep mountain sides covered with a dense foliage of varied hues. From the
depth of the gulches sturdy pines rear their lofty pinnacles until they seem
almost within reach. Southward spreads out the Russian River valley,
interspersed with gardens and grain fields, and through its center,
sparkling in the sun's rays, the river winds its tortuous way, concealed at
times by the luxuriant growth of oaks and clinging vines upon its banks. Far
beyond the valley the hills and mountains rise in graceful succession; and
farther, on the verge of the horizon, the coast range hems in the view, and
is dimly visible in the soft, hazy atmosphere so peculiarly Californian.
A writer many years ago speaks of the famous
"whip" of this route in these words:
"A trip to the Geysers without Foss, the
accommodating and world-renowned driver, who originated and owns the line
between Calistoga and the Geysers is like the play of Hamlet with that
melancholy young gentleman left out. Not only is he an unequalled driver,
but he is a man of genius and a philosopher. In person he stands over six
feet two inches in his stockings, is as strong as a giant, has the voice of
a tragedian, weighs two hundred and thirty pounds, and is as fine a specimen
of muscular development and vigor as ever went forth from the hills of the
Granite State.
"With a fresh team of six horses, and a load
of appreciative passengers, Foss is in his glory. Alternatively coaxing and
encouraging his horses up the steepest acclivities, his eye sparkles at the
top as he gathers the reins, carefully places his foot on the brake, turns
half round and looks over the coach to see that the passengers are all
there, when 'crack' goes the whip, a shout to the horses, and away we go
down the steep mountainside. Trees fly past like the wind; bushes dash
angrily against the wheels; the ladies shut their eyes and grasp the arm of
some male passenger; and speed down the declivity with lightning rapidity,
the horses on a live jump, and General Foss, whip in hand, cracking it about
their heads to urge them on. The effect at first is anything but pleasant.
At every lurch of the coach one feels an instinctive dread of being tossed
high in the air and landed far below in a gorge, or, perchance, spitted upon
the top of a sharp pine. If a horse should stumble or misstep, or the tackle
snap, away we should all go down the precipice. The angle of descent is
exceedingly sharp, and down this declivity the horses are run at break-neck
speed for two and a half miles, making thirty-five turns and some of them
extra short ones.
The Geysers is a name given to springs
scattered along the Pluton river for six miles above the hotel and two and a
half below, but the principal ones of interest lie within a half mile of the
hotel, across the river and up a narrow gorge, called the "Devil's Canon,"
which leads into the Pluton river, perhaps fifty yards below the hotel. A
guide being procured, and each being armed with a stout walking stick, we
pass over the river and visit an iron spring, fifty yards in front of the
hotel. Then the river Pluton is crossed by means of a narrow foot-bridge.
The stream is here about thirty feet in width and full of large
boulders. Passing the bath-house we see the "Eye spring," with its
dark-colored water; next "Proserpine's Grotto," in the Devil's canon, where
we find Epsom salts on the walls in crystals. We are now in the "Devil's
machine shop", surrounded by infernal springs, bubbling and boiling with
their alum and iron solutions, among which is the "Devil's Ink." The ground
is inbearably hot; the steam rushes out from the vent holes in the
hill-sides and under foot. A feeling of awe and possibly of insecurity takes
hold of the stranger. But on we must go, for the hot ground burns our feet.
Alum springs abound, and here is nitre and putty. On the sides of the bank
are carbonates of magnesia and various salts of iron. A few yards further up
the canon is the greatest wonder of all - the "Witches' Caldron," a large
cavity, six feet by eight, and four feet deep. It is full of black, boiling
liquid, containing iron, sulphur, and alum. Although continually boiling and
foaming, very little of the fluid escapes. The "Devils Canopy" appears to
the right, a projection from the bank, composed of stalactites of sulphur
and iron. We are near the head of the canon and the "Steamboat Springs."
These are not in the bottom of the gorge, but are elevated some twenty feet.
Steam is continually escaping in jets, and on favorable occasions it ascends
three hundred feet. We have now reached the head of the gorge with scorching
feet, with a bottle of the Devil's ink, with putty and various specimens,
but the end is not yet. From the hotel we have come north-northeast, and now
we are directed by the guide to the east, leaving the Devil's Canon and
going over the ridge to a pure stream of cold water, to "Lovers' Retreat,"
among the laurels, and still going east to the "White Sulphur Spring."
Turning towards the hotel we soon find ourselves on "General Hooker's
Lookout," opposite the Steamboat Springs, and on the eastern bank of the
canon. The view from this point, above, around and below, is grand beyond
description.
Perhaps seventy-five yards east of the Lookout
is the Crater, and close to it is the "Devil's Oven," which is simply a hole
in a small side-hill, out of which comes steam with a hissing noise. The
"Devil's Teakettle" is a short distance east of the Oven. We go to it and
find a terrible whistling noise and see an aperture similar to that of the
Oven. In fact, they are both teakettles, but for the sake of giving a
variety of kitchen utensils to His Satanic Majesty, the first steam-pot was
called an oven. Within six feet of the Teakettle is an alum spring, and
within six feet of that is an iron spring. The Crater is a kind of
wash-bowl for His Majesty; and is doubtless an old witche's cauldron, boiled
dry. The ground under it is hollow and vibrating.
The round of wonders, within a half mile of
the hotel, has now been completed, except the Steam Bath, a quarter of a
mile up Pluton Canon. There are many other places of interest down the
river, among them the Acid Bath, half a mile distant, and the Indian Bath, a
mile below. There is a dry canon near the Devil's Canon and adjoining it,
whose walls are composed of alum. The odors throughout the region of the
Geysers are in some cases very unpleasant, but to the chemical student who
has experimented with sulphuretted hydrogen they will appear less
disagreeable than to others. Thus the circuit of a mile has been made, and
we have seen the most wonderful laboratory in the universe.
Phenomena. - The causes which produce the phenomena of the Geysers are,
of course, a subject of frequent discussion with visitors. A majority of
scientists consider it "the chemical laboratory of the Almighty." They
maintain that the steam and internal heat are produced by the antagonism of
mineral substances in the earth, which, with the springs of water flowing
through them, produce an effect similar to that of the wetting of unslacked
lime.
This theory is generally accepted by chemists;
but it will be very difficult to convince "outsiders" that all this
ebullition and intense heat have not a common origin with that of volcanoes,
differing only in degree. It seems to add strength to this theory that the
adjacent mountain ranges show abundant evidence of ancient volcanic action.
For would-be visitors we once more retrace our
steps: Spacious verandahs surround the hotel, which is replete with every
comfort, and as a place of resort, it is equally adapted to the sick, the
sad, the gay, the philosophic. From its windows we see to the north the
wonderful canon already described, which, as a natural curiosity, can in no
part of the world be excelled, and is only equalled in the volcanic
development of Hecla in Iceland. The Witches' Caldron, the Steamboat
Springs, and the entire fernal appearance of the region, exceed all language
to portray. The metallic hills, the brimstone, the hot river, and volcanic
rocks, are draped, in many instances, in exquisite green; grass, shrubs, and
trees grow and overhang seething caldrons. The roar, the steam, the groans,
are inearthly. Scientific and hydrographical accounts have been written by
abler pens, but to see is to be convinced that not a tithe of the wealth and
power of these mystical Geysers and their surrounding metallic hills have
yet been developed. "The complicated sublimity of this spot, and its uses,
are attracting the attention of the world, and the rapid progress of
material development linked with the matchless achievements of the past,
attest that by the application of scientific principles to great speculative
ideas, they in time become practical facts, elevating our race, into the
knowledge of useful philosophy, and inspiring the loftiest conceptions of
God's purpose toward man, teaching that even nature can be chained as a
titanic servant under His Imperial dominion."
Skaggs' Springs. -These springs are
situated at the head of Dry Creek valley, about eight miles west of the
depot of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad at Geyersville, and
are next in importance and popularity to the Geysers. The land upon which
they are located was entered by William Skaggs, A. Skaggs, and William and
John Knight, as a grazing ranch, in 1856, but in the following Spring, A.
Skaggs purchased the interest of his partners and became the sole
proprietor.
Here there are a number of hot sulphur springs
of pleasant temperature for bathing, while there is also a cold soda and
iron spring, which proves an excellent tonic for invalids; the principal
attractions of the place, however, are its positively luxurious baths.
Another and pleasant manner of reaching the
springs is from Healdsburg, only fourteen miles distant. The road runs for
eleven miles along the valley of Dry Creek, a tributary of the Russian
River, and may be considered a part of that justly celebrated valley; thence
three miles into the Coast Range of mountains, winding along the valley of
Hot Springs creek, a rapid, rock-fretted stream, whose dark waters nestle
closely under the tall cliffs, which shut out the sunlight, except for a few
hours at mid-day, without possible chance of exit, except at this celebrated
watering place. Realizing that the busy world is left behind, you are
awe-inspired, and the feeling creeps over you that, perhaps, this is "the
bourne from whence no traveller returns." "There are here a few acres of
tolerable level, fertile land; the rest of the country is pretty
slanting; in fact up edge-ways, and they pasture goats on both sides of
it. There are plenty of dear in the vicinity, but it is very dangerous
hunting them; if you should kill one it would be liable to fall on your
head," is the account one writer gives of its charms.
In the year 1860 Skaggs' first became a
regular resort, and from that date it gained in popularity, and the number
of its visitors increased until 1864, when its extending repute caused the
proprietors to expend a considerable sum of money in making improvements so
as to increase its attractiveness. Building was at once commenced, and the
new house was opened in 1864 by A. Skaggs; in 1867 he leased the springs,
but in the following year, resumed the reigns of office. During the next two
years the establishment was rented by John Leonard, and in 1871 by B. F.
Tucker; in 1872-73 it was kept by Perry Emmerson, since when they have been
under the control of the proprietor himself, who has expanded a large sum of
money upon the grounds and the buildings. In the hotel and cozy cottages
which surround it, there is accommodation for at least three hundred guests,
while for their delectation there are elegant drives and walks throughout
the surrounding grounds and conterminous country.
Litton Springs. - This resort is
located four miles from Healdsburg, on the line of the San Francisco and
North Pacific Railroad, and is the property of Captain Litton, who improved
the place in 1875 at an expense of eighty thousand dollars. There is a
handsome hotel and a number of convenient and comfortable cottages. The
water is an agreeable seltzer, which is bottled and sold in considerable
quantities. In late years Litton Springs has become a fashionable place of
summer resort.
The Mark West Springs. - These
springs are beautifully located in a bend of the Mark West creek, which
forms a romantic dell surrounded by hills densely covered with chapparal.
These hills during the season are exceptionally beautiful. The chief
attraction of these springs is its sulphur bath. They are owned by Judge A.
P. Overton, of Santa Rosa, their proximity to which place making them a
favorite and fashionable watering place.
White Sulphur Springs. - These
springs are situated two miles and a half from Santa Rosa, under the Cotate
peak, which overlooks the city. They are owned by John Taylor. The place is
well improved; the water holds in solution, sulphur, soda, magnesia, and
iron, and is considered very healing for many of the ills that flesh is heir
to. There are also a number of well-fitted bath-rooms supplied with hot and
cold mineral water. It is a favorite drive from Santa Rosa to the springs,
while they are largely patronized by many from abroad.
We reproduce in this place from Mr.
Thompson's work the following record of the mining interests in Sonoma
County:
As early as 1852 there were reported
discoveries of gold on Russian River. One of the Kelseys led a
prospecting party as far as the Eel River. This party discovered and
named Eden valley, and Round valley, in Mendocino County, then a part of
Sonoma. They, too, first crossed and gave the name Sanhedrin to the
grand mountain which overlooks all the beautiful valleys of Mendocino.
They met with no great success, and returned, but some members of the
party still live in that part of Mendocino county, then first seen by
white men. In 1854 reports of gold discoveries on Russian River were
revived, but soon died out.
After the discovery and occupation of
Geyser springs, the abundant indications of cinnabar in the neighborhood
attracted attention. The price of quicksilver at the time was low, -
fifty cents per pound; the cost of reduction was great, and the Almaden
mine was producing a supply adequate to the demand. For these reasons no
special attention was paid to the indications of mercury everywhere
visible on the surface near the Geysers.