Sonoma County

History


Source:  History of Sonoma County....San Francisco, 1880.

TOWNSHIP HISTORIES 

 RUSSIAN RIVER

 
           The earliest white settler in this township was Cyrus ALEXANDER, a native of the State of Pennsylvania, and descended from good old Scotch stock. After roughing it in Illinois as a pioneer, and as a trapper in the Rocky Mountains, he came to California, in 1837. At San Diego he formed the acquaintance of Captain Henry D. FITCH, a prominent merchant of that post, then known as Alta California, who, having taken a fancy to ALEXANDER, dispatched him to the country north of the bay of San Francisco in quest of land, of which there was an immense quantity yet unclaimed. He started on horseback, and arrived at the bay, crossed it above the Straits of Carquinez. Pressing forward to Napa Valley, which he found already granted to George YOUNT, BALE, and others, he headed for the valley of the Russian River, on his way finding a number of settlements, among others being the Mark West rancho. North of the latter he discovered a large and fertile tract, still unclaimed, possessing all the qualifications which were desired; the circumstance was duly reported to Captain FITCH, who at once repaired to the spot to make personal observation. He made application to the Mexican authorities, was granted possession of the Sotoyome grant of eleven Spanish leagues of land, and made the following arrangements with ALEXANDER: FITCH was to stock the land with horses and cattle, while ALEXANDER was to guard them and take care of them for the period of four years. At the end of each year the stock was to be driven up to be divided, ALEXANDER to have one-half of the increase; at the end of the fourth year he was to receive two leagues of the rancho.
                    We are told that no human being save the native Indians had ever trod the land; it was the home of the savage and the lair of the wild animal. The mountains were next to impassible, except to the wary aboriginal, and his more artful enemy, the bear. The country was innocent of roads or fences; ill-defined trails led into the thicket, down to almost fathomless ravines, or up to inaccessible crags, until their direction was lost to the uninitiated. All was oppressive solitude. The stately redwood, rearing his tall head heaven-ward, waved and bent to the freshening breeze; the smaller timber gave way to the crashing rush of elk and grizzly; but no other sound was heard. Low in the valleys, flowers of every rainbow tint impregnated the air with their delicious fragrance, and more graceful grasses swayed to the sudden squall as it broke loose from the mountain gale, to shoot into the nooks and crevices of the canons, once more to dart into the unobstructed expanse to waste its strength on nature's variegated fields.
                    It was never intended, however, by the Almighty Architect that these wildernesses should remain as they originally were, why was man given the power of thought, save to ripen into civilization, and the power of will but to penetrate into the gloom of time, and make bright the wonders of His goodness.
                   In the year 1840, Cyrus ALEXANDER completed his arrangements with FITCH, took charge of the ranch, and selected a spot whereon to build a house. This he found on the east side of Russian River, opposite to the site now occupied by the flourishing town of Healdsburg. In the construction of the domicile, access was had, as may be imagined, to but few mechanics' tools, no nails, the sidings were split and hewed from the well known redwood, a timber somewhat similar to white pine, but not so heavy nor close-grained, still it is easily worked and of wonderful durability; grooves were cut in the sills and plates, and after framing these, the sidings were set up in the grooves and aforesaid sills, and the plates being placed on top of the sidings, all were firmly bound together with raw-hide. The only sawed lumber used throughout the construction of this dwelling were two planks, subsequently procured from the town of Sonoma, which were made into doors. Thus we find the first settler in Russian River township was Cyrus ALEXANDER, and the first house erected in it was by the same pioneer. What a change has come over the spirit of the dream. When we look around and see the elegant structures which have since sprung up, we can hardly realize that so few years can have worked such magic. ALEXANDER'S life was now one of care; he had his flocks to tend, and himself to keep from despondency. He taught the Indians to place confidence in the word of a white man; he fed them to the best of his ability, spoke kindly to them, for he had acquired the Spanish tongue while a resident of Southern California, and Digger Indians conversed in a patois of that language, and in time, so truly had he worked, they aided him in his labors, and became company for him in his solitude. The only suit of clothes which he had brought with him soon showed signs of wear and tear, therefore, in order to manufacture new ones he must start a tannery; this he did on a suitable location on FITCH Mountain. He sank his vats and went to work, with nothing but his indomitable will as his aid. The bark he obtained in the immediate vicinity; the hides were not far to seek, but he found the obtaining of lime an almost insurmountable difficulty. A few moments' reflection solved the impediment; he despatched some Indians to the sea coast, a distance of about thirty-five miles, to procure shells from the shore; these they brought back in their baskets. They were burned and produced good lime; in short, a superior kind of leather was made, thus ensuring for himself clothes for his back and shoes for his feet. At this period, let us note, who were ALEXANDER'S nearest English-speaking neighbors. These were Mr. COOPER, at Bodega, Mark WEST, between him and Sonoma; to the north was John GORDON, on Cache Creek, now in Yolo County, one hundred miles away; and east of all, Captain SUTTER, at what is now Sacramento.
                   This lonesomeness was continued except for an occasional visit to the above named neighbors, until the year 1843, when Frank BEDWELL, the second settler in Russian River township, appeared on the scene. His, too, had been a life of adventure, being passed as a trapper and fur hunter among the Indians. On meeting with ALEXANDER, he was induced to stay, and with him made the following terms: BIDWELL to remain with him, assisting him in every way, for five or six years, at the end of which time he was to receive five hundred acres of land. This he obtained in the year 1850, and still resides upon his property, to which he has added, by purchase, some eight hundred acres, and built one of the finest homes in this part of the county, it being situated in Russian River township. His property is, for the most part, hill land, he therefore confines himself to sheep-raising and fruit-growing, which he has carried on with such success that he is counted among Sonoma's most wealthy farmers. Frank BEDWELL, a sketch of whose life appears in another part of this work, is a man of majestic presence, now well on in years, still having the appearance of lasting out another generation.
                    But to return to our subject. In 1842 Cyrus ALEXANDER, with the aid of some Digger Indians, commenced the construction of the house now known as the FITCH adobe, still standing on the family ranch, near FITCH Mountain. Here he planted the first orchard in this section (in 1843), with sprouts from the Russian settlement at Fort Ross, whither he had dispatched BEDWELL and an Indian to procure them. In the Spring of 1844, a Mexican family named PENA took up their residence, while in December of that year he married the sister-in-law of his neighbor GORDON, who, as has been said, lived a hundred miles away on Cache Creek. This brings us to 1845, the year when the business compact between ALEXANDER and FITCH was severed. We reproduce the accompanying letter, more as an example of the subject matter on which correspondence was based in these early days:
 
                                                                                                SAN DIEGO, July 14, 1845.
                   Mr. Cyrus ALEXANDER - Dear Sir: - Yours of March 25th I did not receive until the 27th of last month. I am Sorry to learn that you intend to leave the Rancho in October next, consequently I have made arrangements with Moses CARSON to take charge of the rancho, with all my interest in the same; and have given him orders to that effect. Whatever articles I sent you, such as farming utensils, carpenters tools, etc., that you do not wish to keep, I will take back at the same price, provided they are not too much damaged by wear. The two large whalers, tripods, the winnowing machine, and the American cart-wheels I never considered as sold to you, but delivered them to be used on the rancho. I expect you to leave them, also the auger, grist-mill spindle and tire, log-chain, screw-plates, and other iron and steel ware, sent in 1843, too numerous to mention, such as locks, hinges, etc. I told Mr. CARSON that in case you wished to deliver anything he considered not receivable, to give you a receipt and to retain them as on deposit. I hope you have received the three hundred head of cattle from Pico, and those from Marco Baco, and Pacheco, and have taken them to your part of the rancho; in that case you will deliver all of my cattle to Mr. CARSON; you will also deliver to him one-half of the wool and one-half of all the grain raised. I have been disappointed in not having received a letter from you sooner. You said nothing about the crops. You stated that you had sent me fifteen fanadas, one of beans, eight of wheat. I expected more beans and corn, and I have not received even that small lot. There must be some neglect somewhere. I have not had a bean in my house for two months, I requested Mr. CARSON to ship me some from the rancho in case there were any there. You will please advise and assist Mr. CARSON, in so doing you will much oblige me. As to the new house I hope you have the walls up; and as to the boards and shingles, I do not care to engage any more, but will attend to that myself. Wishing you every success, I remain,
                                    Yours truly,                                                     H. D. FITCH.
                    
                    P. S. - According to my account, I have forwarded to you from November 1841 to November 1843 the following number of cattle, viz: Thirty-nine oxen, four tame cows, one hundred and forty-nine cows de rodeo, four hundred and sixty-eight baquias, large and small, forty-five novillos, sixty-four bulls, sixty-five bakas, eighty-eight head of cattle from Raphael GARCIO. Mr. LEICE (sic) delivered nine hundred and twenty-two head, Mr. LARKINS delivered some since. In 1842 I put twenty-two tame horses, three tame mares, four wild mares, four machos and one colt. I have the papers of the rancho approved by the Assembly, and think all will be correct.
                                              Respectfully,                                                        H. D. FITCH."
 
                   The American cart-wheels mentioned in the above letter were evidently the first used in the county.
                   The trail beaten out by the first trappers, explorers, and settlers, followed the base of the foot-hills, crossing the boundary of the township at the San Miguel adobe, from thence it passed through the present site of the town of Windsor, and left the boundary of the township a few hundred yards below the FITCH house. This road was made by the Spaniards and Indians; but the first immigrants after ALEXANDER and BEDWELL, had formed a settlement in the lower part of the valley; those succeeding turned westward toward this settlement at the crossing of the Mark West, and soon had a well-defined road through the open country, which passed near the house of Henry WHITE, crossed the Windsor Creek on the farm now owned by Q. E. TEBBS, and came down into the valley through the hollow on the ranch of Thomas MITCHELL; from thence turning northward and joining the first mentioned route at the crossing of Russian River at the locality already named. These two roads were, for some time, the only thoroughfares in the township; it was not long, however, before settlers, desiring a more direct route to "Felty" MILLER'S and MARCH'S saw-mill, made a new ford at Summers BRUMFIELD'S, which remained as a direct road to Mill Creek for a number of years.  
                   As has been already shown, the first house in the township was erected by Cyrus ALEXANDER; the second was put up by Lindsay CARSON in 1849, and still stands on the estate of Samuel E. MILLER. Both of these structures were built of adobe. The third house was built of logs, on the land now owned by Benoni HOTCHKISS, by one Louis LEGENDRE, a Frenchman, who arrived at about the same time as Lindsay CARSON, in 1847. This Frenchman, familiarly known as Louis, also constructed the first house of sawed lumber, the planks for which were procured from March's mill on Mill Creek, he being probably the first purchaser who patronized that enterprise. This house now forms the ground-work of the dining-room and kitchen used by J. W. CALHOUN, the timbers being to this day as sound and solid as though but a few years old.
                    E. Harrison BARNES and William POTTER in 1850, started a store in the adobe built by CARSON the previous year, but soon after removed to another building of their own at the junction of the before mentioned Mark West Road, and the river route. This was the first store in the township, as it was also the first in the whole country north of Sonoma. In 1852 Lindsay CARSON bought the interest of Potter and continued the business at the same place with BARNES until the following year, 1853, when the store and all its contents were carried away by the high water of the Russian River, and lodged in a field a quarter of a mile below. Fortunately the building floated upright, and the goods recovered and carried out in a flat-boat, with but few articles damaged. The firm then continued business in a house on the farm of A. B. NALLY, which land was then owned by CARSON. BARNES and CARSON continued this store until 1856, when in March of that year BARNES had disposed of his interest to CARSON, who had in turn sold out to W. G. MCMANUS; it was moved to the just started town of Healdsburg in the adjoining township, and was the second store in that city.
                   In 1851 a number of new settlers arrived in the township, while in the latter end of that year there were then residing in its limits, Frank BEDWELL, Lindsay CARSON, E. Harrison BARNES, William POTTER, Tom and Ike SMITH, J. W. CALHOUN, James CAMPBELL, John PRUETT, H. J. POOL, James BROOKS, L. SLUSSER, CHITWOOD Brothers, and Louis LEGENDRE. In this year the first local election took place, and resulted in the election of Harrison BARNES as Justice of the Peace for Russian River Township. This election was held at the store of BARNES and CARSON, the following one in 1853, being at PRUETT'S school house, now Shiloah Church.
                  In 1852-3 settlers began to fill up the township, among those arriving being J. W. YATES, Henry WHITE, Thomas MITCHELL, Alexander WILSON, Lee LAUGHLIN, George BRUMFIELD, and many more who then located on the places which they now possess, and have made so valuable and beautiful. There were but few families previous to the year 1853, most of the immigrants being single men who sought the accumulation of a rapid fortune and a speedy return to their ancestral homes, consequently the first marriage was an event of no small importance, and to which all were bidden from far and near. The contracting parties on the occasion now noted were John PRUETT and Bettie BROOKS, the nuptial knot being tied by Harrison BARNES as Justice of the Peace. The ceremony took place at the residence of Mr. CHITWOOD, about one mile east of Windsor in the Fall of 1851.
                   In 1850 J. J. MAY, a Cumberland Presbyterian preacher held service at the adobe of Lindsay CARSON, and was therefore the first to preach the gospel in the township; after him came P. RILEY, Baptist, and S. M. SMITH, Methodist, and in 1856 "Parson" COX organized Shiloah Church, which was the first religious institution. In 1853 there was a school organized on the present site of the Shiloah Church, and a small shanty built, which bore the name of Pruett's school house, the district formed being called Russian River district, which included the whole township. This district was divided in 1856 upon the petition of Robert CUNNINGHAM, Hiram LEWIS, H. J. POOL, and others, and the portion thus cut off was called Windsor District, which was partioned in 1864 into Hill and Windsor, by petition of W. S. CLARK, Richard HOLLOWAY, H. J. POOL, and others; that of Tamater being organized according to the petition of TAMATER, HUDSON, etc. in 1867.
                   The Frenchman, Louis LEGENDRE, and Lindsay CARSON were the first considerable growers of wheat, LEGENDRE owning and farming the land now occupied by J. W. CALHOUN. His method of tilling the soil was rude, but the best then in practice. The plow was an odd implement, consisting of the fork of some Oak of the right angle, one prong of which served for the beam, and the other, after being shod with a small piece of timber, bound across their foreheads for a yoke, served as a motive power; one Indian walked before to point out the line of march, while another walked behind and held the single upright stick which served for a handle to guide the plow aright. After the wheat was sown, a limb of a tree or brush was called in to act the part of a harrow, and from this crude tillage LEGENDRE reaped from forty to fifty bushels per acre.
                   The area of the township is now comprised in one hundred and twenty-five separate farms. The schools most largely attended are the Sotoyome, eighty-five scholars; Windsor, ninety; Hill, fifty-four; and Starr, thirty-four.
                   Events of a  tragic nature have not often disturbed the good people of this section. MCKNIGHT was the first man who met death. In 1852 he had a number of Indians at work getting out rails in the field of J. R. DUTTON, then abounding in stately redwoods. Despite the remonstrance of certain persons, he had built his cabin in the line of a huge tree, which was at that time being felled. The chopping of the tree was finished one quiet Sunday morning by the Indians, when it fell upon the cabin in which MCKNIGHT lay asleep and killed him. Louis LEGENDRE, the Frenchman mentioned above, was the second man killed. He had a considerable sum of money in his house, which aroused the cupidity of a Mexican, who murdered him for the booty, and compelled some Indians to bury him in one of his own fields. The Mexican was afterwards arrested, but, effecting his escape, was never caught. KIDD was shot at Mark West in 1864; HENLEY killed ROLAND in 1875; while MCREYNOLDS was thrown from his wagon and killed in 1867; and TRUETT met his death from a falling horse in the streets of Windsor in the fall of 1863.
                   WINDSOR. - The village of Windsor, situated on the county road leading from Santa Rosa to Healdsburg, being six miles south-east of the latter and nine north-west of the former, is built on a plateau, elevated some fifty feet or more above the river bottom, and is known locally to all, except the inhabitants, as "Poor Man's Flat," a name applied to that section of country in 1854 by Tom SEWELL, a well known person in those days.
                    In 1855 Hiram LEWIS, mail carrier for the county, established himself at this point, which he named Windsor - probably on account of some early Windsor in his recollection, which the general appearance of the place had brought back to mind - and shortly afterwards was appointed postmaster at the newly established office there. He was succeeded in the office by Severe LEWIS, who in 1856 opened the "Windsor Retreat," the first public house in the township. In 1857, T. K. WILSON started a store; not long after a second was built, at the bridge, two or three hundred yards to the west of the present town site, which was known as ROSENBERG'S store. ROSENBERG and LINHEMER subsequently moved their store to the present building occupied by JEROME as a grocery store and butcher shop. The firm became successively ROSENBERG & ROSENBERG, ROSENBERG & SWEETZER, and finally sold out, in 1871, to MCKELVY and LIVINGSTONE. In 1876, T. J. HOPKINS purchased the stock of this copartnership.
                    BUCKLAND built the store now known as FORSYTHE'S Hall, in 1857, which has since been occupied by MCFADDEN, KRUSE, BARNES & PETRAY, and CRANE, HENDLEY & Co.
                    The town was regularly laid out in 1858, the chief mover in the scheme being Sam EMMERSON, the proprietor of the hotel. It might be here mentioned that such was the effulgence of Windsor at one time, that she gloried in two hotels, three stores and three saloons.
                    In 1856 James GRAHAM occupied the same place in which he now works at his trade of blacksmith; H. H. LAFFERTY is in the identical shoe shop which he first occupied as the pioneer bootmaker in 1864. The present business interests of the town are: one dry goods store, kept by LINDSAY & CLARK; one grocery store and meat market, owned by _________ JEROME; two confectionery stands, which acknowledge Hiram MARTIN and Frank ROE as their proprietors; two blacksmith shops, superintended by James GRAHAM and William MACINDER; one saloon, by William WILKERSON; one hotel and bar-room, by Thomas MCQUILKIN, and one doctor's office, Dr. L. T. DAVIS.
                   The school house was built about 1863, and cost nearly two thousand dollars. The upper story belongs to the Masonic fraternity, and is used by them and also the Odd Fellows; the Good Templars have a hall near the blacksmith shop of James GRAHAM. Forsythe's Hall is used as a place for meetings or public reunions. The Methodist Church was built in 1863, by BILLINGS & CO., carpenters, and was the result of the efforts of the Rev. Mr. PECK, the first officiating minister. The church has a membership of fourteen or fifteen, and has in time been under the charge of the Rev. Messrs. SOUTHERLAND, MILLER, NORTHRUP, MCRAY, CRAWFORD, and ANGWIN.
                   The postmaster is J. J. LINDSAY. A few years ago Mr. SCHULER started a blacksmith shop at Windsor depot, which is still kept in operation, there being also a store at this point, kept by Walter BIGSBY.

SALT POINT

__________

 
 
                    Geography. - Salt Point township lies at the extreme northwest corner of Sonoma County. It is bounded on the north by Mendocino County, on the east by Mendocino township, on the south by Ocean township, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. It is among the largest townships in the county. There are no navigable streams in it. The Valhalla River runs along its northern boundary, and forms the dividing line between it and Sonoma County. This river is of no commercial importance, serving only for the purpose of rafting logs to the mill, situated near its mouth, in Mendocino County. Its south fork extends into this township for some distance, being but a mere creek for the most of the way.
                    Topography. - The general surface of Salt Point is very rough and broken. There are no valleys of level land worth mentioning as such in the entire township. There are no mountains of prominence, yet the entire section is very hilly. Near Fort Ross there is an extended section of level country; and it is the boast of the residents of that place that they are able to lay out a half-mile race track on quite level ground - a luxury denied all other sections of the township.
                    Soil. - The soil is mostly of a clayey nature, owing to the fact that the greater part is situated on the mountain sides. In the valleys it is a sandy loam. The clayey soil is well adapted to the growing of vines and trees, while the valleys are productive of vegetables, etc. To tell the truth, there is a remarkable sparseness of soil in almost the entire township, except in the small valleys.
                   Climate. - The climate, although the township borders on the ocean, is far different from that of Bodega. On the margin of the ocean it is very foggy during a greater portion of the year. The trade winds strike it fair, and of course this makes it very cool during the Summer months, and sometimes disagreeably chilly, but a few miles in the interior the climate is as different as it is fifty miles away. The heavy belt of timber which skirts the ocean serves to break the force and effect of the trade winds, while the fogs are condensed by it to such an extent that but comparatively little ever reaches the valleys a short distance inland. It is consequently warm and dry, and withal pleasant and healthful. In that section it is remarkable that during the day the air in the valleys is very warm, while on the mountain tops a breath of the sea breeze cools and refreshes everything, while at night it is reversed, and at the bottoms of the valleys the air is cool and often very damp with falling due, while on the mountain tops it is dry and warm.
                   Mr. CALL has been the possessor of a rain gauge for the last five years and during that time has carefully measured and kept a record of the rainfall. He finds the average at Fort Ross to be about fifty inches annually. As compared with San Francisco there does not appear to be any great difference in the number of rainy days, but there seems to be more than twice as much at Ross. No complaint is made of this, however, for the country is mountainous and the water runs off the hills doing no harm. In dry years the benefit is of course great. In the dry season of 1865-6, the fall at Fort Ross was thirty-one inches, and while the other parts of the State suffered the dairymen along the Sonoma coast had an exceptionally good year. Mr. CALL states that he has not yet seen a year when the rains of October were not sufficient to start the growth of the grass, and the following rains sufficient to start the growth of the grass, and the following rains sufficient to start the growth of the grass, and the following rains sufficient to keep it growing until June, and as there is but little frost - in some years none at all - on the coast, it will be judged that the district in and around Fort Ross is the very best dairy and stock raising district on the Pacific coast.
                   Products. - The products of this township are confined almost exclusively to lumber, shingles, cord-wood, fence-posts, tan-bark, railroad ties and fence pickets. Not enough of anything else is produced, with the exception of dairy products, for home consumption. There are a few extensive dairies and some very extensive stock farms in the township. Fruits, vines and vegetables do well in little patches here and there, where protected from the fogs and winds, and reached by the warm rays of the sun; outside of this, but little of this nature is grown.
                   Early Settlement. - It is probable that the settlement of this section by the Russians was contemporaneous with that of Bodega township. It is quite probable that when Alexander KOSKOFF and his company began to establish themselves at Romanzoff or Bodega bay in January, 1811, he found strenuous opposition from the Spanish authorities of California, who always looked upon the Russians as usurpers of the soil and were always ready to embrace any and all opportunities to drive them off. Open warfare was threatened and the Russians had reason to believe that the threats would be carried out. There was another enemy to ward against - the Indians - over whom the Spaniards, through the missions, had absolute control, and the Russians apprehended that this power would be used against them. Several expeditions were organized by the Spanish to march against the Russians, and while they all came to naught, yet they served to cause them to seek for some stronghold of refuge in case of an attack. They did not care to seek for this stronghold at any point nearer the bay of San Francisco, as this would bring them nearer the enemy, hence they went in an opposite direction. The Russians would doubtless have been glad to have adopted a laissez-faire policy towards the Spanish, and would have been very well satisfied to have let them alone if they would only have retaliated in like manner; fearing, however, to trust the Spaniards, the new Muscovite settlers at once proceeded to search for a location which could afford them natural protection from their enemies. In passing up the coast to the northward, they came to the level and extensive tract lying adjacent to the present site of Fort Ross. Here they found everything they could desire. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward affording pasture to flocks without number.
 
                                   "This is the forest primeval; the murmuring pines and the hemlocks,
                                   Bearded with moss and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight,
                                   Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic,
                                   Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms,
                                   Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep voiced neighboring ocean
                                   Speaks and in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest."
 
                   There was a beautiful little cove in which vessels might lie in safety from the fury of the northern storms; near at hand was an ample stretch of beach, on which their rude yet staunch argosies could be constructed and easily launched upon the mighty deep; no more propitious place could have been found along the entire coast of Sonoma County for the establishment of the headquarters of the Russian colony. The location once chosen, they set to work with a will to prepare their new homes. A site was chosen for the stockade near the shore of the ocean, and in such a position as to protect all their ships lying in the little cove, and prevent any vessels inimical to them from effecting a landing. The plat of ground inclosed in this stockade was a parallelogram, two hundred and eighty-eight feet wide and three hundred and twelve feet long, and contained about two acres. Its angles were placed very nearly upon the cardinal points of the compass. At the north and south angle there was constructed an octagonal bastion, two stories high, and furnished with six pieces of artillery. These bastions were built exactly alike, and were about twenty-four feet in diameter. The walls were formed of hewed redwood logs, nicely mortised together at the corners, and were about eight inches in thickness. The roof was conical-shaped, having a small flag-staff at the apex. The stockade approached these towers in such a way that one-half of them was within the inclosure and the other half on the outside. They were thus arranged so as to protect those within from an outside enemy, and to also have all within under the range of the cannon, so that in case of an internal eruption the officers could readily quell the trouble. The stockade was constructed as follows: A trench was dug two feet deep, while every ten feet along the bottom of the trench a hole was dug one foot deep. In these holes posts about six by ten inches were inserted, and between the posts and on the bottom of the trenches there was a strong girder firmly mortised into the posts, and fastened with a strong wooden pin. Slabs of varying widths, but all being about six inches thick, were then placed in an upright position between the first posts and resting on the girders in the trench, being firmly fastened to them. At a distance up the posts of twelve feet from the lower girder, there was run another girder, which was also mortised into the posts and made fast with pins. These girders rested on the tops of the slabs mentioned as being placed between the posts. These slabs were slotted at the top, and a piece of timber passed into the slots, then huge wooden pins were passed down through the girders and the piece in the slots and well into the body of the slab. The main posts extended about three feet higher, and near the top a lighter girder was run along, and between the last two mentioned there was a row of light slabs, two inches thick and four inches wide, pointed at the top like pickets. It may well be imagined, that when the trench was filled up with tamped rock and dirt that this stockade was almost entirely invulnerable with the implements of assault likely to be brought against it in those days of rude weapons of war. All around the stockade there were embrasures suitable for the use of muskets or caronades, of which latter, it is said, there were several in the fortress.
                   On the northern side of the eastern angle there was erected a chapel which it is said was used by the officers, alone, of the garrison. It was twenty-five by thirty-one feet in dimensions, and strongly built, the outer wall forming a part of the stockade, and the round port holes for the use of caronades, are queer looking openings in a house of worship. The entrance was on the inside of the fort, and consisted of a rude, heavy wooden door, held upon wooden hinges. There was a vestibule about ten by twenty-five feet in size thus leaving the auditorium twenty-one by twenty-five. In this, rude yet roomy and comfortable benches were placed for seats, and two of these are still to be seen at Fort Ross. From the vestibule an excessively narrow stairway leads to a low loft, evidently not used for anything originally. The building was surmounted with two domes, one of which was round and the other pentagonal in shape. It is said that the Muscovites had a beautiful chime of bells in these towers, which used to peal out the matins and vespers in the most melliflous tones. The roof was made of long planks, either sawed or rove from redwood, likewise the side of the chapel in the fort. Some degree of carpenters' skill was displayed in the constructing of this building. A faint attempt at getting out mouldings for the inner door and window casings was made, a bead being worked around the outer edge of the casing, and it was mitered at the corners.
                    On the west side of the northern angle there was a two-story building, twenty-eight by eighty feet in dimensions. This was a roughly constructed building, and was doubtless used for barracks for the men of the garrison. The framework of all the buildings was made of very large, heavy timbers, many of them being twelve inches square. The rafters were all great, heavy, round pine logs, many of them being six inches in diameter. On the northern side of the western angle there was a one-story building, twenty-nine by fifty feet, constructed in a better style of workmanship, and was evidently used for officers' quarters.
                   On the southern side of the western angle was a one-story building, twenty-five by seventy-five feet. This was probably used for a working house, as various branches of industry were prosecuted within the walls. On the eastern side of the southern angle there was a row of low shed buildings, which were probably used for the purpose of stabling their stock and storing their feed.
                    This includes the stockade and all its interior buildings. There were a number of exterior buildings, and we will now turn our attention to them. Be it known that there was a colony consisting of at least two hundred and fifty souls at one time at this place. We will first notice the dwelling houses. We are indebted to Ernest RUFUS, of Sonoma, who went to Fort Ross in 1845, for much valuable information in regard to the Russian economy. He states that there were at that time a village of about twenty-five small dwelling-houses on the north side of the stockade. These houses were in keeping with the houses of the peasants already described in Bodega. They were small, being probably not over twelve by fourteen feet in dimensions, and constructed from rough slabs riven from redwood. These hardy Muscovites were so rugged and inured to the cold of the higher latitudes that they cared not for the few cracks that might admit the fresh, balmy air of the California winter mornings. Also, to the northward of and near this village, situated on an eminence, was a wind-mill, which was the motor for driving a single run of burrs, and also for a stamping machine used for grinding tan-bark. This wind-mill produced all the flour used in that and the Bodega settlements, and probably quite an amount was also sent with the annual shipment to Sitka. The burrs were made of the sandstone indigenous to that section, and seem to have answered the purpose well indeed. These stones were about three feet in diameter, and one foot in thickness. One of them is still lying on the site of Fort Ross. This was probably the first flour-mill of any description north of San Francisco and in the State. The stamp for crushing tan-bark was made of solid iron, and was about four inches square. It was hung upon a crank, upon the main shaft of the wind wheel, and the motion was thus given to it. It was a simple and very effective device, but required the constant attention of an operator to turn the bark and stir it up. This mill and stamp did good service for several years after the Americans came into possession of it; but not  a vestige is left of it now, save the stone. This should certainly be cared for, in connection with the burr at the site of Captain Smith's old mill in Bodega, by the Society of Pioneers.
                    We will now follow this tan bark farther on and see what use it was put to by the old Muscovites. To the south of the stockade, and in a deep gulch at the debouchure of a small stream into the ocean, there stood a very large building, probably eighty by a hundred feet in size.The rear half of it was used for the purpose of tanning leather. There were six vats in all, constructed of heavy, rough redwood slabs, and each with a capacity of fifty barrels. They had all the usual appliances necessary to conduct a tannery, such as scrapers, mullers, etc., but these implements were large and rough in their make. It is said, however, that they were able to manufacture a very good quality of leather, and did so in large quantities.
                     The front half, or that fronting the ocean, was used as a work-shop for the construction of ships. Ways were constructed on a sand beach at this point leading into the deep water of the cove, and upon them were built a number of staunch sea-going vessels. The very first ship or vessel of any kind which was ever launched in California was set afloat at this place. It occurred about a year previous to the launching of a vessel at Monterey. It was claimed by all for years that the Monterey vessel was the first, but it has now been established that it was not, this Russian vessel having about one year's priority. These vessels all did good service, and one of them was sailing not long ago. It is said that some of the first ones built here did not last very long, owing to a sort of premature decay setting in. It was found that this was owing to the fact that the redwood lumber was worked up into the vessel while green. They afterwards seasoned all the lumber thoroughly, and had no more trouble of this character. One of these vessels, a schooner, passed into Captain SMITH'S hands, and he gave it the name of "Sacramento," and it is stated that the street in San Francisco of that name derived its appellation from the fact that this schooner made its landings at the foot of that street. Still farther to the south, and near the ocean shore, stood a building eighty by a hundred, which was evidently used by them as a store house. It was very strongly constructed, and well adapted for this purpose. This building was blown down by a storm July 16, 1878, and there will soon be nothing to mark its site.
                    Tradition says that to the eastward of the fort and across the gulch, there once stood a very large building, which was used as a church for the common people of the settlement. Near this church the cemetery was located. A French tourist once paid Fort Ross a visit. He arrived after dark, and asked permission to remain overnight with the parties who at that time owned that portion of the Muniz grant on which Fort Ross is located. During the evening the conversation naturally drifted upon the old history of the place. The tourist displayed a familiarity with all the surroundings which surprised the residents, and caused them to ask if he had ever lived here with the Russians. He answered that he had not, but that he had a very warm friend in St. Petersburg, who had spent thirty years at this place as a Muscovite priest, and that he had made him a promise upon his departure for California, about one year before, to pay a visit to the scenes of the holy labors of the priest, and it was in compliance with this promise that he was there at this time. Among the other things inquired about was the church close to the cemetery mentioned above. All traces of this building had long since disappeared, and the settlers were surprised to hear that it had ever stood there. The tourist assured them that the priest had stated distinctly that such a building once stood there, and also that a number of other buildings stood near it, used by the peasants for homes. Mr. Rufus tells us that when the land went into disuse after the Russians had left, that wild oats grew very rank, often reaching a height of ten feet, and that the Indians were accustomed to set it on fire, and that during these conflagrations the fences and many of the smaller houses of the Russians were consumed, and that he well remembers that there were a number of small houses near the cemetery, and that the blackened ruins of a very large building also remained, which the half-breed Russo-Indians told him had been used for a church. The tourist mentioned above stated that his friend, the priest, was greatly attached to the place, as had been all who had lived in the settlement. They found the climate genial, the soil productive, and the resources of the country great, and, all in all, it was a most desirable place to live in.
                   The Russians had farmed very extensively at this place, having at least two thousand acres under fence, besides a great deal that was not fenced. Their fence was chiefly what is known as rail and post, although there was some picket fence also used more specially for small lots or for dividing fences. As stated before, these fences nearly all perished in the wild fires. Their agricultural processes were as crude as any of their other work. Their plow was very similar to the old Spanish implement, so common in this country at that time and still extant in Mexico, with the exception that the Muscovite implement possessed a moldboard. They employed oxen and cows, both for draft animals, using the old Spanish yoke adjusted to their horns instead of to their necks. We have no account of any attempt at constructing either cart or wagon, but it is probable that they had carts similar to those described in this work as in use among the Californians at that time. They also doubtless used sleds to a great extent for transporting their produce. Their grain was cut with a scythe when it was ripe, and transported on these sleds to the threshing-floor. This threshing-floor was constructed differently from those common in the country at that time and described elsewhere in this work. It was simply a floor composed of heavy puncheons there were interstices through which the grain fell to the ground under the floor as it was released from the head. The threshing was done in this manner: A layer of grain, in the straw, of a foot or two in thickness, was placed upon the floor. Oxen were then driven over it, hitched to a log with rows of wooden pegs inserted into it. As the log revolved, these pegs acted well the part of a flail, and the straw was expeditiously relieved of its burden of grain. It was doubtless no hard job to winnow the grain after it was threshed, as the wind blows a stiff blast at that point during all the summer months.
                    The Russians constructed a wharf at the northern side of the little cove and graded a road down the steep ocean shore to it. The grade is still to be seen, as it passed much of the way through solid rock. This wharf was made fast to the rocks on which it was constructed with long iron bolts. All that remains of the wharf now is a few of the bolts driven into the rocks. It was gone before Mr. RUFUS went there, hence we are unable to give its dimensions or farther details concerning it.
                    These old Muscovites, doubtless, made the first lumber with a saw ever made north of San Francisco bay. They had a pit and a whip-saw. The pit used by them can be seen to this day. Judging from the number of stumps still standing, and the extent of territory over which they extended their logging operations, they evidently consumed very large quantities of lumber. The timber was only about one mile distant from the shipyard and landing. The stumps of trees cut by them are still standing, while beside them from one to six shoots have sprung up, many of which have now reached a size sufficient for lumber purposes. This growth has been remarkable, and goes to show that if proper care were taken each half century would see a new crop of redwoods, sufficiently large for all practical purposes, while a century would see gigantic trees.
                    As stated above, the cemetery lay to the eastward of the fort, about one-fourth of a mile, and across a very deep gulch. It was near the church for the peasants. There were never more than fifty graves in it, though all traces are obliterated now of more than a dozen; most of them still remaining had some sort of a wooden structure built over them. One manner of constructing these mausoleums was to make a series of rectangular frames of square timbers, about six inches in diameter, each frame a certain degree smaller than the one below it. These were placed one above another until an apex was reached, which was surmounted with a cross. Another method was to construct a rectangular frame of heavy planking about one foot high. The top was covered over with two heavy planks placed so as to be roof-shaped, others had simply a rude cross, others a cross on which some mechanical skill was displayed, and one has a very large round post standing high above the adjacent crosses. They are all buried in graves dug due east and west, and, doubtless, with their heads to the west. There are no inscriptions now to be seen upon any of the graves, and it is not likely there ever were any. Some of them sleeping in their far-away graves, where the eyes of those who knew and loved them in their earthly life can never rest on their tombs again, and while the eternal roar of the Pacific makes music in the midnight watches will they await the great day that shall restore them to their long-lost friends. Sleep on, brave hearts, and peaceful be thy silent slumber !.
                    In an easterly direction, and about one mile distant from the fort, there was an enclosure, containing probably five acres. It was enclosed by a fence about eight feet high, made of redwood slabs about two inches in thickness. These slabs were driven into the ground, while the tops were nailed firmly to girders extending from post to post, set about ten feet apart. Within the enclosure there was an orchard of fruit trees planted, consisting of apples, prunes and cherry trees. It is stated that all the old stock of German prunes in California came from seed procured at this orchard. The apples were small seedlings, and shaped much as an Eastern "sheep-nosed June apple," or rather they were miniature "bell-flowers." At present there are about fifty apple and nine cherry trees standing. They are moss-covered and gray with age, and many of them have bowed their heads to the ground under the weight of their years. The fruit is still pleasant to the taste, but is small and insignificant, when placed beside the great, grafted, rosy-cheeked giants which are now grown in all of our California valleys. But these Muscovite apples excel no apples at all, and there was a day when they were much sought for in the San Francisco market. The cherries were small and sour, and not of any particular excellence. At present but little care is taken of the trees, and surrounded as they are with the wild forest trees, one is reminded forcibly of some of "Johnny Appleseed's" famous orchards, planted in the wilds of the Ohio forests, years before the State was settled.
                    The Russians had a small settlement at a place now known as Russian Gulch. They grew wheat here, evidently, for the remains of a ware-house are still to be seen. They lightered their wheat out to the vessel, which was anchored off the shore some distance. The wreck of the frame of one of their lighters can still be seen near that point.
                   There were several commanders or Colonial Governors who had charge here, but the names of all save the first, Alexander KOSKOFF, and the last, ROTSCHEFF, have been lost even to tradition. General William T. SHERMAN relates a pleasant incident in his "Memoirs," which is called to mind by the mention of the name of ROTSCHEFF. It will be remembered that this man had a wife whose beauty was famous throughout the whole section - truly a second Helen, for the capture and possession of whom even military expeditions were organized. The incident is as follows: While lying at anchor in a Mediterranean port, the vessel on which Sherman was traveling was visited by the officers of a Russian naval vessel. During the exchange of courtesies and the course of conversation, one of the Russian officers took occasion to remark to Sherman that he was an American by birth, having been born in the Russian colony in California, and that he was the son of one of the colonial rulers. He was doubtless the son of ROTSCHEFF and his beautiful bride, the Princess de GAGARIN, in whose honor Mount St. Helena was christened. We have thus fully set forth all the facts concerning the Russian occupancy, and their habits, manners, buildings, occupations, etc. We will now trace the causes which led to their departure from the genial shores of California, and then bid them adios. It is stated that the promulgation of the Monroe doctrine caused them to leave; but that is hardly the fact, for they remained seventeen years after this policy was announced and accepted by the nations of Europe. It is, however, probably true, that European nations had something to do with it, for it is clearly shown in another chapter of this work, that both France and England had an eye upon this territory, and both hoped some day to possess it. As long as the Russians maintained a colony here, they had a prior claim to the territory; hence they must be got rid of. The Russians also recognized the fact that the Americans were beginning to come into the country in quite large numbers, and that it was inevitable that they would soon overrun and possess it. The subsequent train of events proved that their surmises were perfectly correct. One thing, however, is evident, and that is, that they did not depart at the request or behest of either the Spanish or Mexican governments. It is almost certain that the Russians contemplated a permanent settlement at this point when they located here, as this section would provide them with wheat, an article much needed for the supply of their colonies in the far north. Of course as soon as the Spanish authorities came to know of their permanent location, word was sent of the fact to the headquarters at Madrid. In due course of time, reply came from the seat of government ordering the Muscovite intruders to depart. To this peremptory order their only answer was that the order had been forwarded to St. Petersburg for the action of the Emperor.
                    Some time later, probably about 1816, a Russian vessel anchored in the bay of San Francisco. The Spanish authorities complained of KOSKOFF to the commander of the vessel, and a conference was held concerning the matter, but nothing came of it. The commandments under the Mexican regime, in later years, organized several military expeditions for the purpose of marching against the intruders, but no real march in that direction was ever made. For more than a quarter of a century they continued to hold undisturbed possession of the disputed territory, and prosecuted their farming, stock-raising, hunting, trapping, and ship-building enterprises. However, whatever were the causes which led to it, there finally came a time when the Russian authorities had decided to withdraw the California colony. The proposition was made first by them to the Government authorities at Monterey, to dispose of their interests here, including their title to the land. As the authorities had never recognized their right or title to the land, and did not wish to do so now, they refused to purchase. Application was next made to General M. G. VALLEJO, but on the same grounds he refused to purchase. They then applied to Captain John A. SUTTER, a gentleman at that time residing near where Sacramento city now stands. Capt. SUTTER had come to the country from Sitka, some years before, on board of one of their vessels. They persuaded SUTTER into the belief that their title was good, and could be maintained; so, after making out a full invoice of the articles they had for disposal, including all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Mendocino, and one league inland, as well as cattle, farming and mechanical implements; also, a schooner, of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, some arms, a four-pound brass field-piece, etc., a price was decided upon. The amount paid by SUTTER was thirty thousand dollars. This was not all paid at one time, but in installments of a few thousand dollars at a time. The last payment was made by SUTTER through ex-Governor BURNETT, in 1849. SUTTER paid the entire amount in cash, and not a part in cash and the remainder in wheat and real estate, as has been stated to us by old settlers. E. V. SUTTER, of San Francisco, a son of the General, is our authority for the above statements. All the stipulations of the sale having been arranged satisfactorily to both parties, the transfer was duly made, and SUTTER became, as he thought the greatest land-holder in California. The grants given by the Mexican Government seemed mere bagatelles, compared with his almost provincial possessions. But, alas! for human hopes and aspirations; for in reality he had paid an enormous price for a very paltry compensation of personal and chattel property. It is apropos to remark here that in 1859 SUTTER disposed of his Russian claim, which was a six-eighths interest in the lands mentioned above, to William MULDREW, George R. MOORE, and Daniel W. WELTY, but they only succeeded in getting six thousand dollars out of one settler. The remainder refused to pay, and the claim was dropped. Some of the settlers were inclined to consider the MULDREW claim, as it is called, a black-mailing affair, and to censure General SUTTER for disposing of it to them, charging that he sanctioned the black-mailing process, and was to share in its profits, but we will say in justice to the General, that so far as he was concerned, there was no idea of black-mail on his part. He supposed that he did purchase a bona fide claim and title to the land in question, of the Russians, and has always considered the grants given by the Mexican Government as bogus, hence in giving this quit-claim deed to MULDREW et al., he sincerely thought that he was deeding that to which he alone had any just or legal claim.
                    Orders were sent to the settlers at Fort Ross to repair at once to San Francisco bay, and ships were dispatched to bring them there, where whaling vessels, which were bound for the northwest whaling grounds, had been chartered to convey them to Sitka. The vessels arrived at an early hour in the day, and the orders shown to the commander, ROTSCHEFF, who immediately caused the bells to be rung in the chapel towers, and the cannon to be discharged, this being the usual method of convocating the people at an unusual hour, or for some special purpose, so everything was suspended just there - the husbandman left his plow standing in the half-turned furrow, and unloosed his oxen, never again to yoke them, leaving them to wander at will over the fields; the mechanic dropped his planes and saws on the bench, leaving the half-planed board still in the vise; the tanner left his tools where he was using them, and dropped his apron to don it no more in California. As soon as the entire population had assembled, ROTSCHEFF arose and read the orders. Very sad and unwelcome, indeed, was this intelligence, but the edict had emanated from a source which could not be gainsaid, and the only alternative was speedy and complete compliance, however reluctant it might be. And thus four hundred people were made homeless by the flat of a single word. Time was only given to those whose loved ones were sleeping in the graveyard near by, to pay a last sad visit to their resting place. Embarcation was commenced at once,
 
                                    "And with the ebb of the tide the ships sailed out of the harbor,
                                    Leaving behind them the dead on the shore.
 
And all the happy scenes of their lives, which had glided smoothly along on the beautiful shores of the Pacific and in the garden-spot of the world. Sad and heavy must have been their hearts, as they gazed for the last time upon the receding landscape which their eyes had learned to love because it had been that best of all places - HOME.
                     
                                   "This is the forest primeval; but where are the hearts that beneath it
                                   Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman?
                                   Waste are the peasant farms, all the farmers forever departed!
                                   Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October
                                   Seize them and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far over the ocean,
                                   Naught but tradition remains.
                                   Still stands the forest primeval; but under the shade of its branches
                                   Dwells another race, with other customs and language,
                                   While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean
                                   Speaks, and, in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest."

                    We will now pass to the settlement of the township by Americans. SUTTER at once sent a major domo to Fort Ross to look after his interests at that point. Of all who were sent there by him during the next four or five years, only two are known at the present time, viz: John BIDWELL and Wm. BENITZ. BENITZ went there in the spring of 1844 as major domo and spent that year in that capacity. In the spring of 1845, he rented the place from SUTTER on certain conditions, associating with him as partner Ernest RUFUS, now of Sonoma Valley. They took a contract to grow potatoes for a firm in Yerba Buena. They raised an abundance of potatoes and had them snugly stored in the old Russian buildings, but the vessel which was sent up for them was lost, and the potatoes rotted and were carted out and thrown into the sea. These enterprising Germans made good use of all the Russian appliances which they found at the place. Their wheat was threshed on the old threshing-floor. It was made into flour in the old wind grist-mill. One day Mr. RUFUS conceived the idea of tanning leather in the old Russian tannery. Among his effects he remembered to have a sort of an encyclopedia of scientific information, and in it he found a recipe for tanning. He went at it with a will, keeping his book ever before him, and following the directions strictly. He was not very successful with the first lot of hides. He then went to a tannery somewhere and learned wherein he had missed it in his process. He then took another lot of hides through which came out very passable leather, indeed. His nearest market was Monterey, and thither he hied himself with his roll of leather on a pack pony. He found a ready sale for it, and continued for some years to make more or less leather there.

                    It is not known what name the Russians applied to the stockade now known as Fort Ross, and it would not be out of place to state here how its present name came to be applied to it. The Spaniards and Spanish-speaking people always spoke of it as "Fuerte de los Rusos" - fort of the Russians. When Americans began to speak of it, although speaking Spanish, they did away with the circumlocution of the Spanish phrase and called it "Fuerte Rusos," which easily drifted into Fort Ross when the Americans became more numerous, and less Spanish was heard in the land. The Muniz Rancho, on which Fort Ross stands, was granted to Manuel TORRES December 4, 1845, by Pio Pico. Soon after this BENITZ purchased TORRES' title to the rancho and refused to pay any farther rent to Sutter for the use of land. In the end, however, he paid some rental, as it was he who paid the sum of six thousand dollars to quiet the MULDREW title. BENITZ continued to reside here for a number of years. He had a large band of well trained Indians, and it is said that he could get more work out of them and managed them more systematically than any other rancher in the State. He had a large bell which was rung at six in the morning. The Indians all arose at the sound of the bell, and having dressed, they formed in a line and marched up to the commissariat when the rations for breakfast and a drink of whisky were issued to each man. At seven they had their breakfast and were in the field at work. At half-past eleven the bell rang again and all marched up again and received their allowances, whisky included. Work was resumed at one in the afternoon. At six the bell called them in from the labors of the day and rations and whisky were again issued. BENITZ finally disposed of the MUNIZ rancho to various parties and went to South America where he died a few years since.
                   On the 8th day of April, 1846, Ernest RUFUS applied for and received the grant of the Rancho de Herman, or German grant, as it is called, which lies north of the MUNIZ grant, and borders on the coast. It is usually asserted that Henry HAGLER was a partner with Mr. RUFUS, but such was not the case. When Mr. RUFUS went to Los Angeles to make application for his grant be intended to have HAGLER as a partner, but was told by his authorities that owing to the fact, that the land asked for bordered on the sea-shore it could be granted to only one man, and that that man must be a tried and true man, one friendly to the Government, and one who would look well to its defense along his domain in times of war with an outside enemy. Such owners would be commissioned as officers at such times, and expected to do military duty. The request of RUFUS for the grant was refused, as he had no one to vouch for his loyalty to the Mexican Government. The next day, however, he chanced to meet an old friend, a relative of Pio PICO, then Governor, who was an official, and who had known him in the days of the "rebellion," as the little trouble between CASTRO and Manuel MICHELTORENA was called, RUFUS having been with SUTTER in the service of the latter. This friend at once proferred to vouch for RUFUS, and the grant was issued forthwith.
                   Mr. HAGLER was a good mechanic and a genius withal. It will be remembered that he came to the county with Captain SMITH as ship's carpenter in 1843. He erected a grist mill on the Rancho de HERMAN, doing the entire wood and iron work required in its construction right on the ground. He also cut the burs from the native sandstone, and they worked very nicely. We are sorry that we are unable to give more of this worthy pioneer's history. These gentlemen gave to the river which formed the northern boundary of the ranch its beautiful name - Valhalla.
                   As stated above, there was a schooner included in the Sutter purchase for the Russians. It was one of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, and made at Fort Ross. It was rechristened by its new possessor, and given the name of "Sacramento." The following incident concerning this schooner was related to us by Mr. RUFUS: Captain SMITH had disposed of a number of horses and provisions to Captain Fremont, for which he had received an order on the United States Treasury for the sum of four thousand dollars. It was a long way in those days from New Helvetia to Washington, hence this order was of but little avail to SUTTER for present demands, and present demands with the hardy old pioneer just at that time become quite pressing demands. At length a proposition came from the Hudson Bay Company to cash the order at a proper discount. He a once loaded his schooner "Sacramento" with a cargo of such articles as would be saleable, and started it to the headquarters of that company on the far away northern coast, under the command of a master named YATES, who also had the order on the United States in his charge. One night after the vessel had been gone about a fortnight, SUTTER had invited a few of his neighbors in to sample some choice wines of which he lately become possessed. As a matter of course the most of them became somewhat drowsy, quite late in the evening, and were sitting or lying around in happy confusion. Presently a loud rap was heard at the outer gate of the fort, which SUTTER at once recognized as that of one of his many servants at Fort Ross, and who was known as "Kanaka CHARLEY." Upon hearing the well-known knock of his servant, he hastened to the gate and admitted him, knowing full well that matters of no small import had brought him to the fort at that hour of the night. His dismay and amazement can be better imagined than described, when he had read the note borne by CHARLEY. It was from Captain YATES, of the schooner, and it stated that the schooner had gone ashore at Fort Ross, and that the order had been cast overboard in a trunk, hoping that it would drift ashore, but that on the contrary it had been carried out to sea and lost. The sturdy old German did not fly into a passion and deliver himself of a volume of expletives, as might be expected. No, not he. He read the note more deliberately, then going back to the room where his friends were gathered, he filled every glass to the brim, then rousing all of them up he read the note, and at once proposed a hearty toast. We are glad to be able to state that the matter did not turn out nearly so bad as it was at first supposed it would. The mate, a hardy old seaman by the name of FLEMMING, who had seen ships in bad places before, set to work, and in a short time had the schooner afloat again. The trunk containing the order came ashore at Bodega Bay and was returned to its owner. The vessel then proceeded to its destination and returned with the gold for the order.
                   The only moveable article which was included in the SUTTER purchase which is now in existence, as far as known, or at least the one to which the most historic interest attaches, is a brass four-pound field piece. This gun was cast in St. Petersburg in 1804. It was through the war against Napoleon, and was finally sent to Alexander KOSKOFF, the commander of the California Colony, as a present from the Czar of Russia. Concerning the history of this gun after it came into Sutter's hands, there are two versions, one given by Major GILLESPIE,  who it will be remembered was very closely connected with all the events which transpired during that most eventful period of California's history - the Bear Flag days of 1846. In the Alta California of July 3, 1846, Major Gillespie says: This gun was brought over from Fort Ross and mounted at Fort Sutter. It was captured from Fort Sutter by the Mexicans. It was afterwards recaptured, and was among those which saluted the American flag July 12, 1846, at sunrise. It was used by Commodore STOCKTON in his march from San Pedro to Los Angeles. Also at the battle of San Pasqual, December 6, 1846, and at Los Angeles at the battle which occurred at that place December 26, 1846. It was then transferred to Colonel MASON of the First United States Dragoons, who returned it to Sutter." The other version is given by SUTTER, and is as follows: Writing under date of August 13, 1879, from LITIZ, Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, he says, "Major (then Captain) GILLESPIE is in error in speaking of the "SUTTER" gun. It was not upon the walls at all (July 12, 1846), it having been captured by CASTRO'S forces under General MICHELTORENA, then Governor of the Department of California, in January and February. 1845, against the rebels, and the gun remained in the possession of the rebel Californians until recaptured by the American forces some years subsequent, and became of great service to the latter. Of my command in 1845, consisting of one hundred mounted riflemen (men of all nationality) and some Indian soldiers, but few survive at this late day. Among the survivors are General BIDWELL, who was may aid-de-camp, and Major RUFUS, of Sonoma." The gun was presented by SUTTER subsequently to the Society of Pioneers, and can be seen in their rooms in San Francisco.
                   Among the early settlers of this township not already mentioned may be named Christian F. RUOFF, who located at Stillwater Cove in the fall of 1851. He entered a tract of government land which lay between the MUNIZ rancho and Rancho de HERMAN. He died a few years later, but his widow and children still reside on the old homestead. N. C. IRWIN came in 1857, and settled on government land some eight miles to the eastward of Timber Cove. David HOPPER and R. MOFFETT came the same year, and H. CARSON, Richard TEMPLE, GIBSON, CLARK, FREEMAN, George MAPES, Ira MAPES, and J. W. MCELROY came in 1858. These all settled on the Government land back of the grants mentioned above.
                   HARBORS, MILLS, and TOWNS. - The beginning of a town in this township has always been conditional on two things, namely: a harbor and a saw-mill. The first named is the prime condition, yet but few towns have sprung up where there was no mill, and some have passed out of existence with the mill, leaving scarcely a trace behind.
                   FORT ROSS. - This, of course, is the oldest place in the township, and comes in first for a mention under the head of towns, though it is not yet a very large place. We do not know just what mills have been at or near this spot since the old Russian days. We are told that BENITZ built a mill back of the fort a mile or so. It is also claimed that James DIXON built the mill. However, it is evident that a mill of some kind and capacity was at one time in operation there. The place, as a town, does not seem to have progressed much from its primitive stockade state until its present enterprising and gentlemanly proprietor, George W. CALL, came into possession of it. He is a thorough-going business man, and has set the wheel in motion which has made the place quite a thriving little village, and is still planning and executing projects which will ensure a continuance of its prosperity. It has many natural advantages which will make it a place of great importance for all time to come. Its harbor is the best in the vicinity, being perfectly secure from northers. Its landings are kept in the best of order, and loading and discharging vessels is easily accomplished. There is a large amount of excellent timber tributary to the place, which will some day make it quite important. There is a tract of about one thousand acres of most excellent farming land adjacent to it, which is far more than is in one body at any other point along the coast. There is an excellent road leading along the coast, and some new roads of easy grade leading into the interior are in course of construction which, when completed, will bring it within easy access of a large portion of back country. We bespeak for it a brilliant future. We will give a short description of the present appearance of the old Russian stockade and buildings. The greater portion of the stockade is gone. The public road passes through the middle of the old enclosure from east to west. The old buildings are now used respectively for a saloon, hotel, and storehouse, while the old chapel is profaned by being used as a stable. The bastions make excellent pigstys. They are tottering under the weight of years, and are moss-covered and worm-eaten, and will soon pass out of existence. There is at present one hotel, one saloon, one blacksmith shop, one store, one meat market, post and telegraph offices. The postoffice was established May 23, 1877, with George W. CALL, Postmaster. The stage route leading out from DUNCAN'S Mill passes through all the towns in the township, likewise the Pacific Coast Telegraph Line. Mr. CALL is still Postmaster, and E. BLACKFORD dispenses justice in the regions roundabout. At the landing there is a chute which is one hundred and eighty feet long, to which there is a swinging apron one hundred feet in length. The loading of vessels with this is a very easy process, and rapid withal/ The cord-wood, tan-bark, railroad ties, fence posts are dumped into the head of the chute by the cart load, and by the time they reach the deck of the vessel they have acquired a fearful velocity. Quite large quantities of the above-named articles are exported from this point annually, while more or less dairy products are also shipped. The schooner "Euphemia," thirty-eight tons register, now runs regularly in this trade. She is owned by Captain Henry BOTCHER. This schooner was run in the Bodega trade by Captain BOTCHER from 1866 to 1877. Captain CHRIST ran the schooner "Eden," to this place in1874 and 1875. Captain C. SCHMALLING ran the schooner "Mary Zepher," here from 1875 to 1877. The "Eden" was afterwards capsized off Point Reyes, but no lives were lost.
                   TIMBER COVE. - The early mill history of this place is also somewhat shrouded in doubt. The most reliable statement is to the effect  that William BENITZ built a mill on the coast at the Cove in 1862, that it was burned in 1864, and that in 1861, a Mr. WEBBER and D. L. B. ROSS, now of Black Pointe, built a mill on the ridge, one and a half miles back of the Cove, and after three years took it away. Both were steam mills; the BENITZ mill had a capacity of twenty-five thousand feet, and the ROSS and WEBBER mill of sixteen thousand feet per day. At present there is a chute, over which considerable quantities of cord-wood, fence-posts, tan-bark, etc., pass annually. A hotel, a school-house, a store and one dwelling-house comprise the buildings in the town. The postoffice was established February 24, 1863, with F. HELMKE as Postmaster.
                   STILLWATER COVE. - This is merely a small bight at which there is a chute owned by Mrs. RUOFF. The usual exports of this township come here in large quantities during the year. There is no sign of a town here, and probably never will be.
                   SALT POINT. - In the spring of 1853, Messrs. HENDY & DUNCAN moved the mill machinery of the old Benicia or Blumedale Sawmill Company down from the mines, whither they had taken it upon becoming the owners of it, and located at Salt Point. This was doubtless the first steam saw-mill in the township. At this time the mill was small, only having the capacity of five thousand feet per day. In 1854, the engine was enlarged to a sixteen horse-power, and this increased the capacity of the mill to twelve thousand feet. While here, Mr. HENDY disposed of his interest to A. DUNCAN and the brothers continued to run the mill here till January, 1860. While here, it is estimated that they cut thirty million feet of lumber. In its prime days there was quite a village here, but only a few straggling half tumbled down shanties are left now to mark the site of the milling village. Near it and bearing the same name is a little town of a few houses viz., one hotel, one blacksmith shop, one store, and a few dwelling houses. W. R. MILLER at one time had a saw-mill in this vicinity, but we now know nothing of its capacity or history. The land and chutes at this point now belong to a San Francisco firm.
                    FISK'S MILL. - J. C. FISK came to this place and built a mill in April, 1860. He had formerly used the machinery in Napa Valley, it being located about eight miles above the city. The mill was steam and had a capacity of twenty thousand feet per day. It was run here for fourteen years and then moved to Cuffy's Cove. It is estimated that in those fourteen years the enormous quantity of forty-two million feet of lumber was cut. Mr. Fisk built a chute at this place in 1860. He disposed of his interest in the mill in 1865 to Fred. HELMKE. The mill is gone and with it all life. The whole village is going to ruin. It is, indeed, a veritable "Deserted Village." There is a store and a hotel here, and that is all. No families occupy any of the many vacant houses. Mr. HELMKE erected a beautiful mansion here by the seaside, thinking to make it his permanent abiding place, but the ever-changing kaleidoscope of fortune soon presented such a phase that he had to leave it for others to enjoy, and with him the glory of the place departed.
                   FISHERMAN'S BAY. - This place was first settled in 1858, by A. L. FISK, who erected a store and hotel building, an put both in operation. The first saw-mill was put in operation at this point in 1867, by a firm composed of H. B. PLATT and H. A. M. COOK of San Francisco, known as the Platt Mill Company. The capacity of this mill was thirty thousand feet per day. It was located near the town, and the building is still standing, though the machinery is all gone and the tramways all broken up. The Clipper Mill was put in operation in 1869, by RUTHERFORD & HOOK. Its capacity was forty thousand feet per day. It, too, has suspended operations. It is doubtful whether these mills will ever be put in operation again or not. There are two chutes at present at this point. The schooner "Lottie Collins" runs regularly in this trade. The business interests of the place are a store, a hotel, and one blacksmith-shop. J. C. FISK has a shingle-mill, built in 1878, with a capacity of thirty thousand shingles daily. There is a post, telegraph and express office at this place. The post office was established July 10, 1863, with A. J. FISK as postmaster. The official is as follows: J. C. FISK, Postmaster and agent for Wells, Fargo, & Co.; Eugene FISK, telegraph operator; J. CARLETON, Justice of the Peace; and D. STUMP, Constable. The enterprising Methodists have put a man on the work here, and given him the following circuit: Fisherman's Bay, Miner School-house, Henry's Hotel, Ruoff's Schoolhouse, and Fisk's Mill. This circuit extends over a territory ten miles wide and twenty miles long, and containing some of the roughest country to be found in California. The name of the man who is doing this great and good work is L. W. SIMMONS. He has been in this field since November 10, 1878. The church organization at this place is twenty-two. The blue-ribbon brigade organized there during the spring of 1879, and they have no saloon now.
                    BLACK POINT. - This is a small shipping point, now owned by Wm. BIHLER and D. L. B. ROSS. They built the chute in 1875. Considerable quantities of produce is shipped from this point, there being some good farming land near by. There is a wagon and blacksmith shop here.
                    LODGES. - There is but one lodge of any order in the township, and that is a lodge of U. A. O. D. It is Plantation Lodge No. 32, and is located near the "Plantation House," a wayside inn, back from Fisk's Mill about three miles. This Lodge was organized October 9, 1878. The charter members were, Jos. LUTTINGER, Benj. F. WARREN, Simon Von ARX, August RADDITI, D. A. RAYMOND, Wm. A. RICHARDSON, Chas. THOMPSON, Geo. DECKER, Victor DURANT, Fred JOERJASON, E. RULE, Herman TUCKER, Jno. CAPONAL, Angelo CERENA, and Peter ECKHARDT. The first officers were, P. ECKHARDT, N. A.; F. WARREN, V. A.; F. JOERJASON, Secretary; and J. LUTTINGER, Treasurer. The hall building was erected in 1878, at an expense of two thousand dollars. It is a very neat building, and the Lodge room very cosy. The present membership is twenty-two.
                   WAYSIDE INNS. - On what is known as the "ridge road," i.e., the road which passes along up the coast, a distance of perhaps three miles back from the ocean, and on a sort of a ridge or back-bone of the first range of hills, are situated two wayside inns, one known as Henry's Hotel, and the other as the Plantation House. Henry's is situated directly back of Fort Ross, and the Plantation not far from Fisk's Mill. The latter was built in 1871. The present proprietor has a fine pond of trout and carp, which he is cultivating successfully.
                   SCHOOLS. - It must not be presumed that because the face of the country presents such a rough appearance that there are no schools herein. On the contrary, there are nearly a dozen school houses in the township. It is true, some of the children have to make long pilgrimages to reach the school house; still they are within the reach of all.

Transcribed by Sally Kaleta


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