The San Joaquin valley includes all the level country between the Sierra Nevada mountain on the east and the Coast Range on the west, extending south to the Tehachapi mountains. This has been fully treated in the chapter on the great San Joaquin valley. With due respect to the opinions of men, and with a desire to accord to all equal privileges and opinions, which we reserve to ourselves, we quote from a citizen, a local writer, his presentation of Tulare valley. Difference in opinion, however, will not change the climate, soil, rainfall, nor productions of this deservedly famous region:

                 "This great Tulare valley is not so widely and favorably known abroad as its territorial extent and productive capacity warrant. It has been too long confounded with the San Joaquin valley, of which it no more forms a part than the valley of the Ohio, the Missouri, Platte, or Kansas forms a part of the Mississippi valley, and only in the same limited sense. Theoretically, the surplus waters of Tulare Valley are supposed to find their way to San Francisco bay through Fresno slough and the San Joaquin river, but practically they never do;* and so, theoretically the valley of Tulare may be said to form a portion of the great San Joaquin valley; but practically it does not. It is essentially different from the San Joaquin, and we therefore take this occasion to enter our formal protest against its being called the 'Upper San Joaquin,' or being connected with the San Joaquin in any way whatsoever. Tulare valley is better watered, better timbered, and has a more universally level surface than the San Joaquin. Its soil is more of an alluvial nature, and it is less afflicted with an underlying stratum of hardpan. The average rainfall is considerably less in the Tulare valley than in the San Joaquin; but, on the other hand, irrigation is more generally employed, and a greater productive capacity is thereby developed, and a larger degree of material prosperity enjoyed. All Tulareans should co-operate in giving the name of their great valley a wide and honorable notoriety, leaving the inhabitants of the San Joaquin to look out for the name and fortune of their portion of the State. The valley of Tulare

 

                                   *Then will our local friend please state where and how the surplus

                                   is disposed of?  There is no other outlet for the surplus waters of

                                   King's and Kern rivers, and the smaller streams, than that of the 

                                   San Joaquin.-  THE AUTHOR.

 

   

lake should no longer be confounded with that of the San Joaquin river.

                  "Tulare valley, like the San Joaquin, has a trend from the northwest to southwest, and lies between the Sierra Nevada and Monte Diablo ranges of mountains, which converge at the southern extremity of the valley, and form also its southern boundary. The valley may be said to have its northern boundary at or near Fresno city, in Fresno County, and to include about one-half of the valley portion of Fresno County. The territory thus included in the Tulare valley has a length of 125 miles, and an average breadth of more than fifty miles, exclusive of the foothills, making a total area of 6,250 square miles, exceeding considerably the combined area of Rhode Island and Connecticut; but if it we add to this the adjacent mountains and foothills, comprising the valley water-shed, we shall have a territory much richer, naturally, and much greater than Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Massachusetts combined; and yet all this vast territory is embraced within Kern, Tulare, and less than half of Fresno counties.

                 "The west side of this valley has a much smaller rainfall than the eastern side, is not so well supplied with streams, and will be slower in coming into general cultivation. It is now used chiefly as a range for stock; but as the soil is fertile and the land level, it will be cultivated in process of time. What the west side lacks in moisture it makes up in mineral wealth. Important coal deposits have been found there, and are now being developed, and also being connected with the outside world by railroad.

                 "Tulare valley is abundantly watered; King's river enters it from the north, the Kaweah, Tule, White and Kern rivers, and many smaller streams from the east, and several creeks from the south and west. Through the trough of the valley, from end to end, run a chain of lakes and sloughs, which unitedly receive the cachement from the vast drainage areas in either side, and store it until evaporated by the summer suns. All the basins advance and recede as each recurring season is wet or dry, and it is not impossible that all these lakes may be reclaimed and disappear entirely in process of time, leaving in their places large tracts of rich sedimentary soils. But this could not be looked upon as an unmixed blessing. The evaporation of so much water during the summer has an important beneficial effect upon the climate of the whole valley.

                 "Tulare valley was first seen by  white men in 1826, when Jedediah Smith of New York, entered it near its southern extremity at the head of twenty-five trappers, whom he brought with him from St. Louis. For many years thereafter the vicinity of Tulare lake was frequently visited by hunters and trappers, but such men, while ready enough to detail there adventures with wild beasts and wild men, were very reticent about the character if the country they visited. They viewed the advance of civilization with scarcely more favor than did the aboriginal red man. The Spaniards and Mexicans who settled the coast counties were even less curious about the great interior valleys of the State. It is said that a superstition was current among them that the great valley was the exclusive property of the devil, and that whosoever ventured within his territory was never permitted to return. So it was that the Spaniards contented themselves with the territory lying westward of the Monte Diablo range of mountains, tacitly agreeing with Satan that the country bearing his name should be left to his possession. This state of affairs has proven most unfortunate to the Americans who came to settle the country within the last few years, for they found it for the most part unincumbered by Spanish grants, the primal curse of other sections of the State. Only one grant, the Laguna de Tache, extends into the Tulare valley, and that is stoutly maintained to be fraudulent, located after California had passed into the possession of the United States. Hence, throughout the entire valley of Tulare, but little difficulty exists with land titles, nearly all land being derived from the United States as an original source. This is an important fact to be remembered. Fremont went through the valley in 1844, and gave in his reports a very fair account of what he saw, and this report was doubtless the first about this valley that ever got into print. Since then much has been written, and yet half has not been told."

TOPOGRAPHY, ETC., OF TULARE COUNTY.

 

                  Tulare County is one of the largest, most important and interesting counties in California. It is not as yet so well known abroad as some other counties, and not so well as it deserves to be; but of late it has been coming into notice very rapidly, and will soon be accorded that high estimation in the public mind which its natural advantages so richly deserve. It is our purpose here to set forth such fundamental facts about Tulare County as every home-seeker will want to know about, hoping thereby to excite in his mind such an interest as will provoke him to pursue the subject further and learn more about this great section of California. Much has been written about this great State in general, and local writers have exhausted themselves in an able manner attempting to portray with pen and pencil the wonders and beauties of their immediate locality or chosen county. These many writers have been ridiculed by many who have never seen the possibilities of this great State for selfish purposes; that everything is over-estimated, etc. Such is not the case; and no writer, be his ability ever so great, can convey an accurate idea of this wonderful country, and duly impress the same on the minds of those who have not spent some time in the State. Thus we only hope and expect to so interest those who chance to peruse these pages to the extent that they will pursue the investigation further, - go and see, and thus be convinced, - that what has been written is true, and yet half has not been told.

                 Tulare County lies in the heart of the great Tulare valley, and generally, as well as properly, known as the "upper" or southerly portion of the great San Joaquin valley, and extends from the summit of the Monte Diablo range of mountains eastward to the summit of the third and loftiest range of the Sierra Nevadas. The northern boundary of the county is, by rail, 228 miles southeast of San Francisco, and the southern boundary is 202 miles north of Los Angeles.

                 The central and most thickly populated portion of the county is, in a direct line, about 100 miles from the coast. It is bounded on the north by Fresno, on the east by Inyo, on the south by Kern, and on the west by Monterey County. The greatest length of Tulare county from east to west is 120 miles, its greatest breadth from north to south sixty miles, and it has an area of 6,406 square miles, exceeding that of Connecticut and Rhode Island combined by about 200 square miles. Reduced to acres, this gives 4,100,000, and makes Tulare the sixth countyin size in the State. California is noted for large measurements, and her counties, with dimensions that would reflect credit upon States, and almost upon empires, are not the least among what she regards as her "big things."

                 The surface of Tulare County is abundantly diversified. It has its full proportion of mountain, foothill and valley lands. As the form of the county is triangular, and only the apex of the triangle rests on Monte Diablo range, it has but little mountainous land upon its western border; but the base of the triangle extends so far into the Sierras that fully one-half of the county's area must be classed as mountainous or hilly; and when we say mountainous we mean mountainous in the fullest acceptance of the term. These mountains are, to use the phraseology of the school geographers, "vast elevations of land," the highest in the United States. They rise abruptly from the valley to a height of 8,000 and 10,000 feet, and each successive range exceeds the first in altitude until Mount Whitney, in the third, lifts his head more than 15,000 feet above the level of the sea. Tulare's foothills are irregular and angular in the extreme, but there are among them some very beautiful small valleys, and upon them some very considerable "flats" that will at an early day be brought under cultivation. At present the foothill country is largely given over to bands of sheep and herds of horses and cattle. The mountains are heavily timbered, and the foothills are covered more or less thickly with stunted oaks.

                  The valley portion of the county embraces a full cross-section of Tulare valley. This includes an area nearly, if not quite, sixty miles square, as level apparently as a barn floor, and yet it all has an incline toward the trough of the valley of three to ten feet per mile. Writers sometimes speak of this great valley as a "plain", but the word "plain" coveys to the mind an image that improperly represents this valley. The valley of Tulare differs from other valleys inasmuch as it is sixty or seventy, instead of six or seven, miles wide, but not otherwise. Nor does it resemble the prairies of Illinois, bouunded only by the horizon, for the mountains are here to wall it in and relieve it of that monotony which always attends  a limitless stretch of unbroken prairie or plain. It is more like a river bottom. Its altitude above the level of the sea ranges between 200 and 400 feet. Of this valley land Tulare County possesses about 2,000,000 acres, nearly all of which would rank as first-class in any country in the world.

                 Tulare is one of the best watered counties in the State. It has water enough for all purposes when it shall have been properly husbanded and utilized. It has been derisively said that the rivers of California consisted in banks and a bed, but no water. This justly applies to some of Tulare's streams at certain seasons of the year, but at other times they are "bank full," and more, for long periods. The waters of such streams must either be impounded in the mountains and foothills in flood times by means of reservoirs, or they must be used for irrigation when they have water. But Tulare County is not without her rivers of perennial flow.

                King's River.- This is one of the largest interior rivers of California. It takes its rise almost entirely in the eastern part of Fresno County, in fact drains all that portion of eastern Fresno lying south of the San Joaquin river. It has a drainage area of 1,855 square miles mostly in the mountains of Fresno, and does not enter Tulare County until after it has left the foothills; and after it does make its entrance into Tulare it is not content to stay there, but winds back into Fresno again, and again back into Tulare, finding rest at Tulare lake. The waters of King's river are largely diverted into canals for irrigation in both Tulare and Fresno counties, but despite such losses it manages to discharge some water into the lake throughout most of the year. King's river furnishes water enough to irrigate more than 1,000,000 acres of land. Its average flow from January to July is 8,715 cubic feet of water per second.

                 Kaweah River. - This river is confined entirely to Tulare County, and is a perennial stream. Its tributaries head way back in the regions of perpetual snow, and at times it carries a very large volume of water. The Kaweah has a water-shed of 608 square miles of mountain territory, and from January to July discharges an average volume of water of 1,824 cubic feet per second, sufficient to irrigate 291,840 acres of land if economically used. But much of the water of this river sinks into the sands before it fairly reaches the valley. Before it leaves the mountains it begins to deposit its burden of silt, creating there a swamp of considerable size that swallows up no small portion of its waters. In fact the delta of the Kaweah extends from the foothills to Tulare lake, and in reaching the lake the river divides into many independent channels, bearing separate names, but watering nearly one-fourth of the eastern side of the valley, and creating one of the most fertile bodies of land in the world.

                 Tule River. - This stream enters the valley about thirty miles south of the Kaweath, has a smaller water-shed, and discharges not more than one-third as much water; but it furnishes enough to irrigate about 100,000 acres of land, provided always that it be economically utilized, which is far from being the case now. Tule is not a perennial stream throughout all its course, the valley portion of its bed becoming dry early in the summer, and remaining so until after the fall rains have set in; but back in the mountains and foothills it maintains a considerable stream at all times. Like the Kaweah, much of the water if Tule river is allowed needlessly to sink in the sands before reaching the valley; but this will not long be permitted.

                 Deer Creek, and after it White River, enter the valley south of Tule, but lose themselves before reaching the lake, except in unusually wet times. They are not perennial, and have but small water-sheds; but being located as they are in the poorest watered section of the county, what water they do afford will come to be valued very highly in process of time, and will be taken out of its natural channel and be conducted in cement canals, or perhaps through iron pipes, so as to save and utilize all of it. The latter method would be most economical, as where conducted through pipes thousands of gallons would be saved that would be lost by evaporation if conducted through cement canals.

                  General Characteristics. - There are certain peculiarities which are common to all of the streams of Tulare County. Their mountain tributaries are crystal trout streams, rushing and splashing through rocky beds, over precipices and down cataracts with as much merriment as the "waters came down from Lodore." Ice-cold, pure and colorless, they add to their wild mountain homes all that fancy could desire to make them complete. But once in the valley they are overburdoned with silt, move sluggishly, wander off in strange channels, are divided into canals, carried out upon the land and are seen no more. These streams have two high-water periods each year: one in the fall when the first heavy rains occur, and the second in the spring when the deposits of snow upon the lower mountain levels melt. The floods of 1862 and 1863 were very severe and quite disastrous. King's, Kaweah and Tule rivers all started new channels when the first flood occurred, and finished them when the second one came; but so many large canals have been constructed for diverting the water from these streams since 1868 that it is barely probable, if any flood may hereafter occur, that it can work such damaging results as in the past.

                 Firewood. - Parts of Tulare County are bountifully provided with firewood for domestic purposes and parts are not. The Kaweah delta is rich in this particular, a large part of it being covered with oaks widespreading and having trunks four to ten feet in diameter, as well as numerous smaller trees. Tule and other streams are reasonably well timbered, and among the foothills are considerable supplies of smaller oak timber, good for firewood but for little else. The higher mountains have, of course, an inexhaustible supply of firewood, but it will be something of a task to convey it to where it is most needed, and the need is not likely to be so pressing for some time to come, as to warrant a serious grappling now with the problem. Indeed, it looks now as though that vast supply may never be needed. Trees grow so rapidly in the valley that each rancher may not only grow his own firewood at small cost, but may grow it to sell, and therein find an important source of income. The higher ridges of the Sierra are clothed with extensive forests of pine, cedar, redwood, fir, tamarack and other trees. From the towns of the great interior valley camping parties usually seek the forest-clad slopes of the Sierra Nevada in summer, either selecting some inviting spot in which to remain for a time, or with pack-horses and guns push onward and upward among the higher peaks of the range, where snow lies in the deep canons throughout the year. To reach these high altitudes, forests of oak, pine, cedar, fir and other trees are passed through, among which countless streams dash onward to mingle with the rivers that flow into the valley below. In the mountains lying east of the San Joaquin Valley, and in no other part of the State, the big trees (Sequoia gigantea) exist, several groves of which have become famous the world over. In the counties of Calaveras, Tuolumne, Mariposa, Fresno and Tulare only are these trees found. The largest that has been discovered is in Tulare County, and measures forty-six feet in diameter. Rising up amidst the tall pines, their lowest branches high above the topmost boughs of the surrounding forest, the immense trunks clothed in pale red bark, are the most striking feature of these regions.

                Beyond the upper limit of this monster growth, but higher among the granite crags, hardy varieties of pine, not encountered in the heavy forests, clinging about the base of the peaks, thrust themselves upward from crevices in the rock, or line small canons that pursue their tortuous course upward to the snow fields. It is such a region that is represented but meagerly when sketched by  the most expert artist or described by the ablest pen. Some of the wildest and grandest scenery in the world is to be met with in the region about Mounts Whitney, Tyndall, and Kaweah and other grand and lofty piles rising above the summit line of the Sierra, and visible from every part of the valley. Several parties have ascended to the summit of the first-named peak, the highest point of land in the United States, and on two or three occasions ladies have made the ascent successfully, although it is not unaccompanied with danger.

                 Near the upper limit of the timber belt the weather is always cool, and frost is visible every morning; and in the middle of summer ice often covers the still ponds of water. The deep gorges between beetling crags are filled with drifted snow, and in some of them glaciers are to be seen. On the western slope of this great range any temperatures from frigid to semi-tropical may be found, and summer locations to suit the desires of the individual are plentiful. Winter in the mountains hardly ever entirely surrenders. As the season advances, slowly and obstinately it retreats up the slopes, slowly pursued even to the edge of the snow banks by blades of grass and flowers. Sometimes, at higher altitudes, the snow-plant in its glory of crimson, plants its victorious flag upon a white background before the snow has had time to beat its retreat to the summit beyond. Late in October there are torn and tattered white banners to be seen here and there through the deep ravines; but winter has sought its last stronghold at the summit, whence it has defied for thousands of years even the power of the sun. As twilight deepens into night, it sends its compliments down the range in the evening breeze. Then to the camps comes the sad song of the pines, "the air bites shrewdly." Wrapped warmly in double blankets, how refreshing is sleep under the stars, which shine and twinkle with a brilliancy astonishing to those who have always lived in the hazy valleys. Switzerland has become an English park. Nature has given California a grander and more magnificent one, not even yet more than half explored, and much of which is in the mountain region of Tulare County.

CLIMATE

 

                 Tulareans are not given to boasting about the superb climate of their county. They will even hear people of other localities speak disrespectfully of it without show of resentment, presumably from the fact that Tulare is not building so much upon climate as upon soil, water and production. It does not matter so much, they think, what is said about her climate. As "they that are whole not of their health, - only the sick;" so they will find themselves climatically comfortable so much of the time, are slow to realize that their climate is, upon the whole, among the most delightful in the world. Tulare, like all California, has but two seasons, the so-called "rainy season" and the "dry;" and as the rainfall is much less here than farther north, we will treat the two separately.

THE DRY SEASON

 

                   The term "dry season" is self-explanatory; it "hits the nail squarely on the head." That particular season is of a truth unequivocally and unmitigatedly dry. The dryness thereof usually sets in the last of May or first of June, and stays with the country until the last of September or October. During that period it never rains in the valley, though it has been known to sprinkle just enough to show the presence of moisture on the dry highways up as late as the Fourth of July, but that could scarcely be dignified with the term "rain." The sky is hazy, but cloudless, and if one day differs from another it is only in that it may be a little warmer, or cooler, or that the breeze that comes steadily out of the northwest may be a trifle stronger or weaker than upon some previous day. Friends never greet each other, as in the Eastern States with, "Nice day," "Fine shower," "Is it going to rain?", "How do you like last night's storm?", etc. The only observation ever heard upon the time-honored topic of weather is an occasional "Warm enough for you?" The dry season is, it must be admitted, a "trifle warm" at times, but that is all that ever "gets the matter with" it, and the people generally make more "fuss" about it that than is necessary, or any sense in, as the temperature at 100 is not so oppressive as it is east of the mountains when at 85. June, July and August are warm in the valley, but, all things considered, those months in the valley are preferable to the same months in any state in the far East or great Mississippi valley. There is no sweltering heat that saps the life out of one like a hot vapor bath. The summer days are dry and invigorating, enabling men and animals to work all day in the harvest-fields with the mercury at or above 100 without loss of life or severe inconvenience.

                  But not all the days in June, July and August are uncomfortably warm. Take all of the unpleasant warm days out of those months, and there will be left two or more full months of as agreeable weather as may be found anywhere. Those counties that pride themselves most upon their climate, Los Angeles, San Diego, Santa Barbara, etc., have from one cause or another as many, if not more, unpleasant days in summer than has Tulare. Some days in each of these counties will be rendered unpleasant by a chill wind off the sea or by mountains of fog tumbling into the interior, or by wind-storms, sand-storms, or an unusual degree of heat, from which they also sometimes suffer, while to be a "trifle" warm for comfort is all that can occur to mar the serenity of a Tulare summer day. But the nights are nearly always cool, and where  one can rest well during the night he can stand a little torridity during the day. The first few warm days of the season are hardest to bear, but the system soon adapts itself to the new condition, and as that condition endures right along without those sudden changes which shock the system, the acclimating process does not have to be gone through with again until the next season. The ever-present dust is one disagreeable feature of California summers the State over, one community having little advantage over another in that particular; but the dust does not drive as it does in the East, except when disturbed by an occasional sand-storm. Such storms, however, occur usually only in spring or fall, before the dry season begins, or after it is over with, and usually do not last long, - not more than ten or fifteen minutes. "Unpleasant things they are in all countries, and not all good things of earth can be found in one county, one State, or even in one-half the globe." "If Tulare had neither dust nor warm weather to contend with," says one, "her climate would be faultless, and all the people in the world want to live within her borders; and then how crowded would be the people! But if the dust and warmth get tiresome, why, there are the mountains."

THE RAINY SEASON

 

                  This term is a very unfortunate one as to California. It not only does not create in the mind any sort of conception of the division of the year from October to May, but it sets the imagination to depleting a positively hideous image of what is in reality altogether lovely. There should be a new and more appropriate term, by which to express this season in California. "Spring" would do fairly well, but probably the term "rain season" is more likely to be adopted. People imagine that during the rainy season it must either pour or drizzle all the time, as is the case in Oregon and Washington, making the roads impassable and the whole face of the country a great dismal swamp. Nothing could be farther from the truth. The so-called rainy season is merely that portion of the year in which it sometimes rains. Weeks and even whole months go by without rain, and when it does rain it makes very little fuss about it. Most of the rains are like April showers unaccompanied by wind or lightning. Once in a great while the inhabitants of the valley are treated to a display of heaven's artillery, but the sound thereof more nearly resembles the rattle of musketry than that of the roar of heavy ordnance so frequently heard in the Eastern States.  Lightning very seldom strikes in the valley, not oftener than once a year in the entire valley; and not a lightning-rod is to be seen, and as yet not a lightning-rod agent has penetrated the valley; and furthermore, the people say they are not anxious for their coming!

                 The average rainfall is probably less than twelve inches, and that amount properly distributed is an abundance. During 1884, sixteen inches of water fell, and it was more than the soil knew what to do with. Fairly good crops have been produced where the precipitation was but seven inches, which was the case in 1887.

THE GENERAL HEALTH

 

                  The general health of the county is good. No general epidemics have ever visited this section, and there are no diseases peculiar to this section alone. People die here occasionally, it is true, but the death rate is among the very lowest in the State, in proportion to population.

                  Malarial troubles and biliousness are not unknown, but are not worse than in many Eastern States regarded as healthful, and not nearly so bad as in some of the States. For those of weak lungs, Tulare is much preferable to the coast. The climate is subjected to fewer sudden changes than that of the coast, and there is less difference between sunshine and shade than there. The sun is warm anywhere in California, and it is the breeze only that is cool on the coast. Many invalids have, after walking in the sun along the coast, sat down in the shade to rest, and become chilled in a few moments and suffered the dire consequence. There is no danger of such mishap in Tulare.

                 A grave apprehension has been expressed by some Eastern people that the climate of California might enervate and make them less ambitious than desirable. This fear has no foundation in fact, and yet it is not without some degree of plausibility. There are those who have but few wants, and having those supplied possess no further incentive to exertion. The rigors of climate north and east furnish an incentive to activity; necessity drives even the indolent to provide against the unrelenting frosts of winter; while in California no such master holds the whip over those who were born tired. Hence the impression that climate is the prime cause of indolence.

                 Some have remarked the number of invalids met with in the State, never reasoning how that thousands linger in the States until the last resort is California or the grave, and to California they come first, where some die soon, and others have their days prolonged into years. The reader of history will remember that it was wealth and luxury, and not enervating climate, that laid Rome low; and therein lies California's only danger of producing a less hardy and vigorous people than the Dakotas or Minnesota.

AMONG THE MOUNTAINS

 

                  The valley of Tulare is destined in time to become one of the most populous sections on the globe. The richness of the soil, abundant water supply, and wonderful adaptation to nearly all kinds of agricultural production, assures this; but it will be a very busy community and will afford but little opportunity for relaxation, change of scene, or rest. Consequently a field for recreation near by a busy people, who have but short intervals to spend from business, is one great desideratum in selecting a location. Fortunately for those locating homes in Tulare, there are found near by everlasting pleasure grounds, abounding in great natural wonders, sublime scenery, mineral springs, and all else that can delight the eye or divert the mind. They lie immediately at hand, and extend a standing invitation to all who are weary and heavy-laden to come unto it and find rest. This great natural mountain park has, within the county, a length of sixty miles and a breadth of forty or fifty, and will always furnish ample room for all the people who may resort thereto. No finer region for camping, hunting, fishing, and scientific research is to be found on the globe. Tulare's mountains have not been half explored except by sheep men who annually take their flocks far back in the mountains to summer among their meadows and on their grassy sides, and such men as a rule are not given to writing up their expeditions. But when in the fullness of time the mountain fastnesses of Tulare, Fresno and Kern counties shall have been written up as Yo Semite has been, and shall be more accessible by building some of the short lines of railroad already proposed, tourists will flock thither by thousands every summer, as they now do to the Alps of Switzerland or the famous Yo Semite.

                 Among the sierras of Tulare and Fresno counties are a number of deeply cleft valleys that not only rival Yo Semite in grandeur but even far surpass it in the altitude of their granite walls and in territorial extent. Among the many attractive colossal wonders to be seen, are Mount Whitney and several other prominent peaks already mentioned, Kern river canon, Paradise and Tehipitee valleys, which have been elsewhere described.

                Besides what has been already described, the mountain scenery is profusely diversified with many mountain lakes of indescribable beauty; countless cascades and waterfalls, hundreds and even thousands of feet high, some of them; glaciers as old as the mountains themselves; lava beds; wide-yawning craters of extinct volcanos; forests so dense that the sun scarcely penetrates them, and containing trees having not only the largest girth of all in the known world, but also trees that are taller than can be found elsewhere! and all this in a climate that, during the summer months, when recreation is most to be desired, is not only delightfully cool and invigorating , but also rainless and stormless, and where every day is just like every other day, with blue skies flaked here and there with bits of fleecy cloud; where the stillness is so intense that every twitter of bird and chirp of cricket is plainly audible at long distances; the air fragrant with the odor of pine and flowers, and the whole world seemingly at rest.

                 Among these mountains are found many springs having marked medicinal features. The most common of these is the soda spring, though soda is only one among the several minerals their waters contain. One of the best soda springs known is on Middle Tule, at an elevation of 4,000 feet. The water issues from an oriface in the solid rock in intermittent jets and with a gurgling noise, resembling a wash-boiler full of clothes boiling very rapidly; but the water is ice-cold, and when mixed with lemon juice and sugar makes a beverage that defies competition from venders of so-called "Arctic Soda." But there are hundreds of soda springs in different parts of Tulare's mountains, some of which may surpass the one described. There are also hot springs as well as cold. The waters of most of the hot springs are strongly tinctured with sulphur. The best known springs of this kind in the county are on Deer creek, in the mountains of Southern Tulare. These springs are held in great esteem by persons afflicted with rheumatic troubles, disorders of the blood, etc. If we may judge from evidence procurable from those who have used the waters of these mineral springs, and claim to have been cured by them, they are more efficacious than any or all patent medicines yet invented, and are certain "panaceas" for a much longer list of disorders.

                Students of nature will find no lack of interest in these wonderful mountains. Every turn in the trail will bring to view some new subject for the pencil or camera, or some new formation for geological investigation. Not half of these mountains have been adequately prospected for minerals. Botanists and entomologists will find here a new and enlarged field for their studies. What an opportunity is here offered for care-worn men and women to retire to nature's own rugged but motherly arms and be nursed back into health and new life! "Coming generations will learn to bless God that not all of Tulare was made rich and fertile, but that enough was made uninhabitable to make a big play ground for them all."

SUBTERRANEAN WONDERS

 

                  Besides the grand forest and magnificent scenery within the borders of Tulare County, there are many caves in the mountains that are beautiful and romantic attractions. One of these beautiful subterranean wonders is situated about two miles and a half from Frazier's Mill. It has been known of for several years, but not explored to any extent until recently, owing to a beautiful, clear, cold stream of water flowing through the entrance. This stream has been  changed so as not to admit adventurers, and the cave has since been explored to a depth of 600 feet. The entrance to the different chambers is peculiar, in each instance being through the roof; and it is often with difficulty that a man can crowd his body through these entrances, leading from one chamber to another. There are numerous chambers, of different sizes; many of them are from forty to ninety feet from floor to ceiling. Some of them contain immense boulders, weighing from five to ten tons, and are seemingly hanging suspended from the ceiling. Others contain stalactites that sparkle and gleam by the light of candles in indescribable beauty. Among other curiosities found is petrified wood.

                 During the year 1880, Joe Palmer, while tracking a deer, found a very large cavern, which he afterwards explored and found the entrance to be 25 x 30 feet, and the descent nearly vertical for eighty feet, and an incline at forty degrees for a distance of 100 feet, then running nearly level for some distance and expanding into a large chamber 100 x 200 feet, with walls more than 100 feet high. This chamber is gorgeously ornamented with crystals, large and small. Some of the stalagmites are in size comparable with huge stumps of trees. Crystal columns two feet in diameter reach from base to dome, while innumerable stalactites, like artic icicles, hang from the upper walls. All the crystals are of rarest whiteness and clearness, and so brittle that they have to be handled with the greatest of care when removed. A great portion of the base or floor is a magnificent mirror, startling in beauty, size and splendour. Some of the stalactites are of many tons' weight and would be worth a fabulous price if removed to a museum. Two of the passages which open into the large chamber, sixty to seventy-five feet from the base, have not been fully explored. The darkness in the cave is intense, described as almost painful, but a light reveals a picture unrivaled in beauty and grandeur - a million reflections dazzling the eyes. The location of this great natural wonder is about fifty miles east of Tulare city, at the head of the north branch of the south fork of the Kaweah. This cave is at the lower line of the great Sequoia grove.

                  Another novel feature near by is the largest boulder in the world, being more than 100 feet in diameter and weighing perhaps 200,000 tons.

                  In this county is found the only chrysoprase in the State. Valuable gems are cut from this material. The locality where this semi-precious stone is found is only seven miles northeast from Visslia.

                 Some fine specimens of rose quartz are found in upper Yokohl and on Tule river.

                 There has been recently discovered in the mountains back of Mineral King a rich deposit of copper and silver, of which the assay gives about twenty-five per cent. pure copper and $107 in silver per ton.

BIG TREES OF TULARE

 

                 More than half of the "big trees" in the world are in Tulare County. There are thousands of  them, the largest and grandest in existence, and are worth traveling hundreds of miles to see; and the time will come and almost now is, when thousands of people will visit Tulare every year for the purpose of seeing them and other natural wonders that can be seen nowhere else in such majesty.

                 The Sequoia gigantea, or "California Big Trees," as they are familiarly called, are found in this county at an altitude of between 6,000 and 7,000 feet above the level of the sea. They are found at this altitude on the western summits of the Sierras, all along from the northern boundary of the county nearly to the southern, but not further south; and they are usually in groves from twelve to fifty trees in a place.

                  Like Niagara, Yo Semite Falls, or El Capitan, it is hard to realize how immense these trees are, at first sight. When anything once passes the bounds of one's comprehension, it may be doubled or quadrupled without appearing much the larger. Drop any one who has never seen or heard anything about Yo Semite or its altitudes would be ridiculously low. He would not suppose that the many cliffs and granite walls about him were as many hundreds as they are actually thousands of feet high. In order to fully appreciate California's size and distances, an Easterner must educate his eyes anew. So with the big trees. They are likely to be disappointing at first acquaintance. Surrounded as they are by great sugar pines, yellow pines, and firs so large in diameter, and towering to such height that but for the Sequoias they themselves would be known as big trees, as they are now known as the tallest trees in the world. It is hardly possible to comprehend the proportions of trees even much larger. There is nothing at hand with which to compare the monster Sequoia. Their environments  are all in harmony, all gigantic. Then, too, the atmosphere in which they live is so transparent as almost to annihilate distance. But fuller acquaintance with these monsters of the forest is rewarded by correspondingly larger appreciation. They grow upon one until at last they rise before him out of the forest shadows in heroic majesty. If it be difficult to fully realize how large these are when standing at their base, how much harder it is for those who have never seen them to come to a realization of their immensity by reading descriptions of them. A good way to get an approximate idea of diameters is to take a cord, say fifteen feet in length, attach one end of the cord to a stake, drive the stake in the middle of a street and with the cord as a radius strike a circle on the ground. The circle thus described will have a diameter of thirty feet.  Then stand off a short distance and imagine the trunk of a tree filling that entire space, and towering skyward nearly double the height of the tallest church spires. Then try another method. Even where they grow the fallen monarchs, the sentinels of thousands of ages, appear largest, and there are many prostrate trunks all through the woods in all stages of decay. Imagine one of them lying in the middle of the street upon which you live, leaving barely room enough on either side for a wagon to pass, and extending a full block, or 325 feet, and the upper edge nearly on line with the tops of two-story buildings.

                 Large as these trees are, some have practiced fraud in their measurement. To sustain themselves in an upright position despite the storms that occasionally visit the higher Sierras, these trees have thrown out in every direction great buttresses that sink deep in the earth and brace them. This causes the trunks of the trees to bulge out at the base, and not unfrequently these buttresses leave a considerable space between them and the trees. Such is the case with the famous "Grizzly Giant" in the Mariposa grove. This tree is put down in guide books as being 109 feet in circumference; but to make of it such dimensions, the line must be drawn around outside of its buttresses, which is manifestly unfair. An honest measurement of the tree makes it about ninety feet in circumference, and but few trees are larger. There is a tree on Bear creek in Tulare County, which is ninety-two feet in circumference five feet above ground. But as a rule a tree that is thirty feet through at the base, will not measure more than twenty-four feet at a point twenty feet above ground, though it may maintain that diameter for more than 100 feet, or even be larger yet fifty or sixty feet from the ground.

                  There are but few of the larger trees, but bear evidence of having passed through a fiery ordeal. Some have been damaged but little, while others have been half consumed. These fires undoubtedly occurred long before the Americans, or even the Spaniards, came into the country. "Inside the cavity of a monster tree half burned off, but still alive and growing, a stalwart fir has grown up. By taking its girth and finding the stumps of other firs of like dimensions that had been felled, and counting their 'rings', it was found that this fir could not be less than 180 years old, and the big tree in which it grows must have been burned several years before the fir sprouted, or fully 200 years ago. This certainly relieves the white man from the suspicion of having committed this piece of vandalism and fixes it irrevocably on some earlier race."

                  As to the age of these trees there is a diversity of opinion. Professor Asa Gray, in the first edition of "Johnson's Cyclopedia," expressed the opinion that none of them could have a greater age than 1,200 years; but in the latest edition this opinion has been changed to 2,000. We are forced to the conclusion that this eminent Harvard professor would have been impelled to give these trees a further lease of life could he have examined some of the larger stumps and count the growths or rings. Three reliable citizens of Tulare County counted the rings of what is known as the "big stump" on Bear Creek. The stump has a diameter of twenty-four feet. They estimated that this tree was 3,002 years old when cut, and were confident that their estimate was to low rather than too high. The heart of the stump had so decayed that an accurate count could not be made. On consulting two of the men who cut the tree they stated that at the time of cutting the entire tree was sound, and they counted the rings, and judging thereby the tree was 4,468 years old! A Sequoia cut for lumber twelve feet in diameter was found to be 1,443 years old. This log was 251 feet long, and made about 100,000 feet of sawed lumber."*

 

 

                                 *The botanists claim, however, that "rings" do not uniformly

                                 correspond to "years of growth," any more than rings on a

                                 cow's horn or buttons in a rattlesnake's tail.

                    At Comstock's Mill, Tulare County, in 1890, one of the Sequoias was cut for lumber. The cost of cutting, hauling, and sawing was $1,500. The lumber was sold for $2500, making a net profit of $1000 from the one tree. In 1878 Messrs. McKiernan, Hubbs, and Manley, felled the tree belonging to the "big stump," and brought a section of it out of the mountains. They were at work upon it for thirteen months. This tree measured 111 feet in circumference at the ground. They first cut it off twenty-six feet above ground, and then chopped out the inside to a depth of fourteen feet, making of it a great tub. They then sawed down from top to bottom, making fifteen great staves, leaving a thickness of six inches of wood, and three to twelve inches of bark on each stave. These staves were taken out one by one, loaded upon wagons and hauled to the railroad, each stave making a load for eight horses, and the whole filling two flat cars. This section was first set up and exhibited in San Francisco, the staves being fastened together by bolts, and was afterward taken to various Eastern cities, but it did not "draw:" Eastern people were "too smart to be taken in with that kind of an arrangement." "Could not make them believe that trees grew to be twenty-six feet six inches in diameter in California." "Any one could see that it was made out of fifteen different trees but together to look like one." And so the enterprise proved a financial failure, costing the exhibitors much more than it came to, and it was finally stored in New York, and later, sold to pay the storage.

                 The immense profits to be derived from those trees when worked into lumber led lumbermen to slaughter these forests indiscriminately, until it appeared as though ere long not a representative of the famous Sequoia would be left as a monument perpetuating the memory of his fallen race. Like the Indian, the white man seemed to care little how soon he was entirely disposed of. However, once there is a necessity for a leader, a defender, the right man appears on the scene. In all ages, under all circumstances, Nature has proven her capacity to guard and perpetuate her mighty works, and has at all times reared up agencies to lead the masses on to victory, and to establish and maintain the right. Such has proven true as regards these monster monarchs of the forest. As early as 1880 the United States surveyor for the State of California recommended that a large area containing the Sequoia growth in Tulare County be set apart as a national park. Lumbermen sought to get possession of this vast forest wealth, and a few citizens of Tulare County were watchful and vigilant, determined, if possible, to preserve the "big trees;" and it appropriately fell to the lot of one of California's native sons to become the prime mover in this landable undertaking. The same is George W. Stewart, editor of the Visalia Delta. George gives the credit to Messrs. Frank J. Walker, Tipton Lindsey and John Tuohy. Mr. Walker says that G. W. Stewart first called his attention to the importance of petitioning Congress to set aside certain boundaries containing the Sequoias as a national park, and that the other gentlemen named cordially endorsed the measure, and each at once began actively to work with that object in view.

                  In November, 1890, the Hon. John Tuohy read a paper bearing on the Sequoia park, before the Patrons of Husbandry of Tulare County, of whom he was Worthy Master. In that paper, among other things he said, speaking of the National Park: "My attention was first called to the subject by a well written editorial in the Visalia Delta, for the preservation of township 18 south, and range 30 east of Mount Diablo meridian and base, for a park, as it contains very many fine Sequoias. Next, F. J. Walker drew up and circulated a petition to Secretary of the Interior Noble, to retain the supervision of this township until Congressional action could be had; and next I noticed that General Vandever had introduced the bill setting aside this township for a park; and I am further credibly informed that General Vandever was induced to take the action through the representations of prominent men in this county, notably amongst whom should be mentioned that old and patriotic Tulearean, Tipton Lindsey." Thus it will be seen that Mr. Tuohy says that his attention was first called to this subject by an editorial  in the Visalia Delta,The editor being none other than George W. Stewart.

                   The several gentlemen referred to industriously agitated the subject by writing to Governor Waterman and to members of the State Legislature, to members of Congress, the Secretary of the Interior, and to influential newspapers throughout the United States, as well as to members of the State Forestry Commission. Equal industry and vigilance was manifested by those interested in possessing the forest.

                   In June, 1890, timber land in township 17 south, range 21 east, was restored to market, and within a few weeks all the timber land was filed on. Eighteen townships were withdrawn from market by the Government, December 24, 1885, and the one above-mentioned restorep at the date there stated and a month thereafter it was rumored that a township adjoining was to be placed on the market. Hence the letters and telegrams by the gentlemen referred to to prevent said lands passing into the hands of those who sought to destroy the forest.

                  July 28, 1890, General William Vandever, Representative in Congress from the Sixth Congressional District, California, of which Tulare County is a part, introduced the following bill:

 

                         WHEREAS, The rapid destruction of timber and ornamental trees

                          in various parts of the United States, some of which trees are the

                          wonders of the world on account of their size and limited number

                          growing, makes it a matter of importance that at least some of

                          said forests should be preserved; therefore,

                          Be it enacted by  the State and House of Representatives of the

                          United States of America, in Congress assembled, That the tract

                          of land in the State of California, known and described as township

                          18 south, range 30 east, Mount Diablo meridian, is hereby reserved

                          and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy or sale under the laws

                          of the United States, and dedicated and set apart as a public park or

                          a pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people; and

                          all persons who shall locate or settle upon or occupy the same, or

                          any part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered

                          trespassers and removed therefrom.

                          SEC. 2. That said public park shall be under  the exclusive control

                          of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as

                          practicable, to make and publish rules and regulations as he may

                          deem necessary or proper for the care and management of the

                          same. Such regulations shall provide for the preservation from

                          injury of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities or wonders

                          within said park and their retention in their natural condition. The

                          secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for building purposes

                          for terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of ground not

                          exceeding ------- acres, at such places in said park as shall require

                          the erection of buildings for the accommodation of visitors, all of the

                          proceeds of said leases and other revenues that may be derived

                          from sources connected with said park to be expended under his

                          direction in the management of the same, and the construction of

                          roads and paths therein.

                          He shall provide against the wanton destruction of fish and game

                          found within said park, and against their capture or destruction for

                          purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all persons

                          trespassing upon the same after the passage of this act to be

                          removed therefrom, and generally shall be authorized to take all

                          such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out

                          the objects and purposes of this act.

                          

                  The bill was passed and approved September, 1890, and the park designated as the Sequoia National Park. The following is the bill on full, as also that establishing a national park surrounding the Yo Semite valley and including the several "big tree" groves in that region:

 

                           An act to set apart a certain tract of land in the

                                    State of California as a public park.

                              Whereas, the rapid destruction of timber and ornamental trees in various

                              parts of the United States, some of which trees are the wonders of the

                              world on account of their size and the limited number growing, makes it

                              a matter of importance that at least some of said forests should be

                              preserved; therefore

                              Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the

                              United States of America in Congress assembled, That the tract of land

                              in the State of California known and described as township numbered

                              eighteen south, of range numbered thirty east, also township eighteen

                              south, range thirty-one east, and sections thirty-one, thirty-two, thirty-

                              three and thirty-four, township seventeen south, range thirty east, all

                              east of Mount Diablo meridian, is hereby reserved and withdrawn from

                              settlement, occupancy or sale under the laws of the United States, and

                              dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasure ground, for the

                              benefit and enjoyment of the people; and all persons who shall locate or

                              settle upon or occupy the same or any part thereof, except as here-

                              inafter provided, shall be considered trespassers and removed there-

                              from.

                              SEC. 2.  That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of the

                              Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable,

                              to make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem

                              necessary or proper for the care and management of the same. Such

                              regulations shall provide for the preservation from injury of all timber,

                              mineral deposits, natural curiosities or wonders within said park, and

                              their retention in their natural condition. The Secretary may, in his

                              discretion, grant leases, for building purposes for terms not exceeding

                              five acres, at such places in said park as shall require the erection of

                              buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of the proceeds of said

                              leases and other revenues that may be derived from any source

                              connected with said park to be expended under his direction in the

                              management of the same and the construction of roads and paths

                              therein.

                              He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game

                              found within said park, and against their capture or destruction, for the

                              purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all persons tres-

                              passing upon the same after the passage of this act to be removed

                              therefrom, and, generally, shall be authorized to take all such measures

                              as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects and

                              purposes of this act.

                              Approved, September 25, 1890.

                An act to set apart certain tracts of land in the

                            State of California as forest reservations.

                       -Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United

                       States of America in Congress assembled, That the tracts of land in the

                       State of California known and described as follows: Commencing at the

                       northwest corner of township two north, range nineteen east, Mount Diablo

                       meridian, thence eastwardly on the line between townships two and three

                       north, ranges twenty-four and twenty-five east; thence southwardly on the

                       line between ranges twenty-four and twenty-five east to the Mount Diablo

                       base line; thence eastwardly on said base line to the corner to township

                       one south, range twenty-five and twenty-six east; thence southwardly on the

                       line between ranges twenty-five and twenty six east to the southeast corner

                       of township two south, range twenty-five east; thence eastwardly on the line

                       between ranges twenty-six and twenty-seven east to the first standard

                       parallel south; thence westwardly on the first standard parallel south to the

                       southwest corner of township four south, range nineteen east; thence

                       northwardly on the line between ranges eighteen and nineteen east to the

                       northwest corner of township two south, range nineteen east; thence

                       westwardly on the line between townships one and two south to the south-

                       west corner of township one south, range nineteen east; thence north-

                       wardly on the line between ranges eighteen and nineteen east to the north-

                       west corner of township two north, range nineteen east, the place of

                       beginning, are hereby reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy,

                       or sale under the laws of the United States, and set apart as reserved

                       forest lands; and all persons who shall locate or settle upon or occupy the

                       same or any part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered

                       trespassers, and removed therefrom: Provided, however, that nothing in this

                       act shall be construed as in anywise affecting the grant of lands made to the

                       State of California by virtue of the act entitled "An act authorizing a grant to

                       the State of California of the Yo Semite Valley, and of the land embracing the

                       Mariposa Big Tree Grove," approved June thirtieth, eighteen hundred and

                       sixty four; or as affecting any bona-fide entry of land made within the limits

                       above described under any law of the United States prior to the approval of

                       this act.

                       SEC. 2.  That said reservation shall be under the exclusive control of the

                       Secretary of Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make

                       and publish such rules and regulations he may deem necessary or proper

                       for the care and management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for

                       the preservation from injury of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities,

                       or wonders within said reservation, and their retention in their natural

                       condition. The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for building

                       purposes for terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of ground not

                       exceeding five acres, at such places in said reservation as shall require the

                       erection of buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of the proceeds

                       of said leases and other revenues that may be derived from any source con-

                       nected with said reservation to be expended under his direction in the man-

                       agement of the same and the construction of roads and paths therein. He

                       shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game found

                       within said reservation, and against their capture or destruction, for the

                       purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all persons trespass-

                       ing upon the same after the passage of this act to be removed therefrom,

                       and, generally, shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be

                       necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects and purposes of this act.

                       SEC. 3. There shall also be and is hereby reserved and withdrawn from

                       settlement, occupancy or sale under the laws of the United States, and

                       shall be set apart as reserved forest lands, as hereinbefore provided, and

                       subject to all the limitations and provisions herein contained, the following

                       additional lands, to wit: Township seventeen south, range thirty east of the

                       Mount Diablo meridian, excepting sections thirty-one, thirty-two, thirty-

                       three, and thirty-four of said township, included in a previous bill. And there

                       is also reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy or sale under

                       the laws of the United States, and set apart as forest lands, subject to like

                       limitations, conditions, and provisions, all of townships fifteen and sixteen

                       south, of ranges twenty-nine and thirty east of the Mount Diablo meridian.

                       And there is also hereby reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy

                       or sale under the laws of the United States, and set apart as reserved forest

                       lands under like limitations, restrictions and provisions, sections five and six

                       in township fourteen south, range twenty-eight east, of Mount Diablo

                       meridian, and also sections thirty-one and thirty-two of township thirteen

                       south, range twenty-eight east of the same meridian. Nothing in this act

                       shall authorize rules or contracts touching the protection and improvement

                       of said reservations, beyond the sums that may be received by the Secretary

                       of the Interior under the foregoing provisions, or authorize any charge

                       against the treasury of the United States.

                                    Approved October 1, 1890.

 

                  July 18, 1890, Secretary Noble set aside four other sections of timber land in the Visalia land district. They were suspended from entry and sale in 1880, upon the recommendation of the Surveyor General, for the reason that they "are covered by trees of the Sequoia gigantea variety, some of which are reported to be forty feet in diameter, and from 300 to 400 feet high, constituting a remarkable rare curiosity, which should be preserved." The land in question is what is called the "Comstock Grove" of big trees, being situated just above Sweet's mills, near Camp Badger. The land is in sections 31 and 32, township 14, range 28, Fresno County, and sections 5 and 6, township 14, range 28, Tulare County. It is in this grove that the gigantic redwood tree "General Grant" is located, which measures 104 feet in circumference. It is claimed that in one section or township about twenty miles north of Porterville, Tulare County, township 18 south, of range 30 east, in which there is one of the finest groves of "big trees" yet discovered.

                 In the Sequoia National Park is a prominent peak which Tulareans have given the name of Mount Vandever, in honor of their representative who succeeded in getting the park bill through. This is proper and right, as the time will come when General Vandever's timely action will be regarded as a Godsend to the nation. Other prominent landmarks in the park (large trees) should be named respectively George W. Stewart, Frank J. Walker, Tipton Lindsey, and John Tuohy.

                 Mr. John Tuohy, one of the gentlemen who labored with unsuccessful zeal to secure the park, says: "Well do I remember, when, twenty years ago in July, the vegetation of the valley being browned, the daily range of the thermometer in the shade as high as 110, after six days driving sheep from the valley up steep, brushy mountain sides, with my flocks, I reached the meadows in our now beautiful park. I thought my eyes never beheld anything so lovely. Before me were open, grassy, flower-decked meadows bordered with fringes of fir and tamarack, laved with clear, snow-cold turbulent streams; every nook with grass from ankle to shoulder high; every short distance springs so cold, clear and pure with springs of effervescing soda equally as clear and cold, with an atmosphere at that season of the year not surpassed in the world. I thought one day in that delightful climate and world compensated for all the labor I had in getting there; then when more by accident than design I ascended to the summit of some peak and looked over mountain and forest and beheld the valley and plain, timber and stream, with beautiful Tulare Lake shining like burnished silver in the distance, a picture framed in the Sierra Nevada and Diablo ranges of mountains, I realized I had the grand and beautiful before me.

                  "The mountain, cliff and crag; the spring, streamlet and river; the atmosphere and the view, are there still; the meadow itself is there, but it's grass, its flower and its beauty under the hoof of the wandering herds of sheep have fled, but only for a few seasons. Preserve them from all wandering stock, and a few seasons will restore to them all their beauty of grass, of flower, of berry, herb and shrub, and we of Tulare will have a most delightful summer resort."

                  The Government reservation, in which are groves of big trees, and known as the Sequoia National Park, contains 3,500 acres; owned by the Government, 5,500 acres; held  by the Government and otherwise claimed, 4,500 acres; passed from Government ownership, 24,000 acres. Groves of "big trees" are found in various places within this large area of 37,500 acres.

                  A second bill was passed, enlarging the park, which caused considerable bad feeling among many citizens of the county. This enlarging bill was not a measure introduced or pressed by the originators of the first bill; they had nothing whatever to do with it. Recently there has been discovered the largest tree in the world in Fresno County. This tree was discovered by Frank Loomis, of Sanger, who with a party were hunting bear. They wounded one, and in pursuing it ran across a big tree in the most rugged portion of the mountains, about two miles north of Kentucky meadows. No evidence was found that man had ever penetrated the dense jungle surrounding it. The tree was measured four feet from the ground, and a rope 129 feet 5 inches was necessary to encircle it. It was christened by the discoverers the "Orejano."

                 Captain J. H. Dorst, commanding Troop K of the Fourth United States Cavalry, with his troop, has charge of the Sequoia National Park. They have temporarily quartered near Atwell's mill. The intention is to establish permanent quarters near Mineral King. This is one of the best fishing regions in the State, being near  the head waters of King's river, and among  the most wild and picturesque scenery in the world. This vast mountain wild, when once made reasonably accessible, will become as famous as the Yo Semite, if not more so.

TULARE'S BIG TREE

 

                  Neal Van Doorman's great redwood tree, which was taken from a forest near Cramer, this county, has reached San Francisco. Three flat cars were required to haul it to the city, as it weighs about 70,000 pounds. It is designed as an exhibit at the World's Fair at Chicago.

                 "The section of the tree was taken from Mammoth Forest in Tulare County. It was cut from a forest giant 312 feet in height, growing at an altitude of 6,324 feet, and was severed from the parent tree twenty-eight feet above the stump, at which point the tree measures sixty feet in circumference. Of course the tree was considerably larger at the stump, but a section from the base could not be cut for the purpose of transportation, for the simple reason that a solid cut was taken of twenty feet diametrically, and nine feet in height, and that was the maximum of the railway freight limit on flat cars.

                  "The entire piece of wood consists of sixteen sections, as follows: The lower section is one foot in height by twenty feet in diameter, all in one solid cut, weighing 19,725 pounds. This will be arranged as a floor, placed on nine elegantly carved and enormous pedestals made of wood of the same tree. The next cut is seven feet in height by twenty feet in diameter, which is hollowed out and will be placed on the floor cut. The last and final cut is one foot high and similar in every respect to the floor cut. The whole of this remarkable curiosity will form a sort of hall, and will accommodate about 100 people, and will be entered by a swinging door made out of one of the portions of the second section. Two hundred and fifty incandescent lights will illuminate the section inside and out and a number of skilled wood-carvers have been engaged to manufacture souvenoirs for distribution among the visitors."

THE BIG TREE TRAIN

 

                  Tuleareans are resolved to show to those attending the World's Fair at Chicago in 1893 what the resources of their county are. Their scheme is novel as well as wonderful. The plan is to cut two lengths, 45 feet long, from a gigantic redwood tree 26 feet in diameter and 390 feet high. These sections will be constructed into railway coaches by hollowing them out and fitting them up. The rough bark will form the roofs, and on the sides and ends the wood will be left in its natural condition. The interior will be fitted up in Pullman car style. One of the coaches will be used for dining, and will also have a bath, barber shop and kitchen. The other coach will be a sleeper with an observation room. The intention of the people of Tulare, who are actively interested in the scheme, is to journey to Chicago in these coaches and use them as a residence while visiting the fair. The coaches are to be placed on exhibition grounds, and samples of redwood will be sold as mementos. There will be no greater novelty at the fair than the Tulare coaches. If every county in the State is as prolific of genius in preparing an exhibit for the fair as Tulare is, the attractions from California will give the world of visitors more entertainment than all the other exhibits combined.

LUMBER

 

                 Tulare's mountains contain inexhaustible forests of the various pines most valuable for lumber, and the lumber milling business is now a prominent industry in the county, and will be second to none in the State when railroads penetrate those vast forest regions.

SOILS

 

                  "The foundation of all prosperity that shall endure must lie in the soil, and when the Creator made Tulare, he laid the foundation of an enduring prosperity safe and sure. Nearly  the whole of Tulare Valley is an alluvial formation, but the deposits must have been made at different times and under a variety of circumstances, for the soils are found 'all over in spots' as the saying goes. It would not be very remarkable if an eighty-acre lot were found upon which nearly all the different kinds of soil that exists in the valley were located. This is advantageous, inasmuch as it permits a great variety of products; but the farmer must have due regard to the kinds of products that will do best upon his soils if he would obtain the most satisfactory results. There are at least four general classes of soils in Tulare County, and each will be treated in turn."

                 The Red Lands. - These lands lie adjacent to the foothills, and are, we believe, common to much of the Sierra Nevada range. They are composed of clay mixed with sand and vegetable matter, making a very strong soil and one that holds moisture exceedingly well. It is not a bad soil to work, and is growing in favor with wheat-raisers every year. It is underlaid by a stratum of hardpan at a depth of one to five feet, that keeps the moisture from going below it. We do not know that an analysis has been made of any of this character of soil found in the county, not having been able to find the record of one, but it certainly bears the test of steady cultivation well and satisfactorily. The only objections yet argued against the red lands are that they are in the "hog wallow" belt. "Their surface appears as though, when in the process of formation, it had been brought to the boiling point, and on getting to bubbling all over nicely, it was suddenly thickened, to remain forever in that condition. " Many theories have been introduced as to the cause of these so-called "hog-wallows," all of which have some plausibility, and yet none have been demonstrated as facts. Some claim it has been brought about in ages past by wind currents. To offset that theory it is claimed that such elevations are confined to the heavy soils, and not to those more susceptible to wind action. Others attribute the cause to large fishes, when the present great valley was a deep inland sea and the fishes resorted to certain localities as a play ground, whilst others claim they are the work of perhaps the prairie dog, or an animal of similar habits. None of the theories, however, have been endorsed by scientists; neither have they given one of their own.

                   Continued cultivation levels down these slight elevations, so that they do not seriously interfere with farming. Not all soils having a red tinge are of the same nature. If the sand be left out, it is then classed as red adobe lands, more difficult to cultivate, but equally productive.

                  Sandy Loam.- This soil is perhaps the most common throughout the valley portion of the county, and is found containing clay, sand and decomposed vegetable matter in proportions varying from the light sandy to the heavy adobe soils. Most of this soil has enough of sand in its formation to make cultivation easy and pleasant, and enough of vegetable clayey matter to make it exceedingly productive and durable. This soil is adapted to nearly all products, and can be cultivated at all times. It is barely possible that it will not retain moisture as long without cultivation as will the red lands, but if cultivated frequently and thoroughly it will retain moisture indefinitely.

                 The Pure Alluvial. - This is the soil most in favor in this county, and is found along the several streams, within the boundary of what once overflowed, or swamp lands. The soil is very light, - will almost float on the surface of water; and is full of small particles of mica, making it appear as though sprinkled with gold-dust, and is profusely enriched with vegetable matter. There is comfort and encouragement in cultivating this soil. Trees, vines, and indeed everything else make rapid and tremendous growths in this soil.

                  Black Adobe. - This character of soil is not very abundant in the county. It has to be cultivated and dealt with patiently. If plowed when too wet it turns up in large clods that are hard to subdue. It is a cold soil and does not start vegetation so early in the spring as other varieties, but is very strong, good for pasture, and makes fine stock ranches.

                 White Ash. - This is a soil not over abundant in the county, and yet there are large bodies of it mostly in the northern part of the county. It is almost as light in weight and color as an ash heap. It is not a very strong soil, but is readily irrigated, and easily cultivated. Its lack of strength and lightness makes it peculiarly adapted to the wine grape, most of the soils being so rich as to make the wine product too strong in alcohol, or too "heady", as it is termed, for light wines. This ash soil region is destined to become the great wine producing center of the State.

                  Dry Bog. - This is not common in the county, and is worthy of mention principally on account of its eccentricities. For years it was deemed incorrigible, but it has been subdued at last. When perfectly dry, in mid-summer, it flakes up in mere wafers, to a depth of a foot or more, and is so loose that a horse walking over it, sinks half-way to his knees at every step, and when wet it rolls upon wagon wheels to such an extent as to render travel well-nigh impossible. When properly handled, and sown to wheat, it produces heavy crops. Cultivation tends to pack, and make it firmer.

                  Foothill Soils. - Most of the foothills are covered with a grayish soil, a decomposed granite forming a large percentage of its composition. This is the least fertile of all in the county, but produces considerable wild feed. There is no question that small fruits would do well here, as also the cherry and olive.

                 Lake Lands. - Owing to Tulare lake having receded several miles in past years, many thousand acres of land have emerged, and are now in market.

                 The soil about the lake will doubtless improve as time passes. Air and light admitted by cultivation will make it readily respond to tillage. Such has been demonstrated; and yet there is no certainty that one's farm will not again be claimed by the waters, which has been found true in many instances recently. When an excessive snow or rainfall occurs in the mountains evaporation fails to cope with the excess water; hence the lake again encroaches on its vacated shores. This can, and no doubt will, be remedied by the State, as a movement is on foot looking to dredging the lake, deepening it and forming levees from the dredging, thus forming a beautiful pleasure resort, and safely guarding against overflow of lands immediately surrounding.

                  Alkaline Soils. - Tulare, like many other counties in the State, has several thousand acres of land more or less tinctured with alkaline salts. These lands are not held in high esteem by the public generally, but the more people become acquainted with them, and the more scientific knowledge they obtain of them, the more they grow in favor. Alkaline lands do not now, and perhaps never will rank as first-class; but they are not valueless by a considerable. When a quarter section will furnish ample pasture for 160 head of horses and cattle the year round it cannot be classed as waste land, and the majority of so-called alkaline lands in the county will do that if properly managed.

                 Alkaline lands are not all alkali, neither are they all alike. There are several kinds of alkaline soils, and it is generally known that lands entirely void of alkali are worthless as agricultural lands. Some of Tulare's lands have too much of a "good thing," and that is all there is of it. There are what is commonly known as "white alkali" lands. The one forms a white deposit on the surface, the other an almost inky black, and forms black rings about pools of standing water. The "black alkali" is carbonate of soda, and is readily neutralized by pulverized gypsum, an inexhaustible deposit of which is near by the Coast Range mountains.

TULARE COUNTY ORGANIZED

 

                  As we have already stated, the first whites who after the trappers were attracted to what is now Tulare County, where those who sought to traffic with the Indians. But hard upon their heals came others, attracted hither by the luxuriant vegetation that grew all over the valley, but more especially along the deltas of the large streams. Along the Kaweah from where Wood's trading post stood to the mountains, was in those days an almost inpenetrable swamp, and out of that swamp, at points a short distance from each other, issued the four main channels of the Kaweah, now known as St. John's, Mill creek, Packwood, and Outside creek; and from this fact the whole Kaweah delta took the name of the "Four Creek" country, and was the first settled portion of what is now Tulare County. This entire region at the time was in Mariposa County.

                  The earliest settlements were made on King's river, at what is now Centerville, and which was at that time in Tulare County. It is said that the bona-fide settlers of Tulare county were easy going, quiet, respectable people, but adventurers were attracted here from time to time who were "tough", and they made society somewhat rough for a time; but they either killed each other off or left for new fields as civilization grew and made it uncomfortable for such characters. It has been claimed that there were about sixty white settlers in the county at the time of organization. This is disputed by some of the oldest residents now in the county. Very few if any of the first actual settlers are now living. Some, who settled in the "Four Creek" country as early as 1853, - a few of whom are yet living, - say they do not believe there was an actual white resident in the county when organized. Those who organized it did so to get the offices, and succeeded in electing themselves to places they sought, and the majority immediately returned to their homes in Mariposa County.

                  In the winter of 1852 the California Legislature provided for the organization of a new county, to be known as Tulare. The territory to be included within the boundaries of this county was almost precisely the same as that described as the Tulare valley, and adjacent water-sheds, with the addition of all the country to the east as far as the State line. Out of this has since been formed Inyo and a large portion of Fresno and Kern counties. In consequence of the Legislative act referred to, an expedition was fitted out at Mariposa, then an important mining point, and filled to overflowing with all kinds of adventurers, for the purpose of organizing the new county and "corraling" the offices. The completion was headed by Major James D. Savage (whose tragical death has been described elsewhere in this volume), who as early as 1850 kept a trading post on Fresno river, and who was one of the four commissioners appointed to hold the first election in the new county. The other commissioners were: M. B. Lewis, John Boling, and W. H. McMillen. There were in all the territory, previous to the arrival of this Mariposa expedition, not more than sixty-five men and no women; but as the expedition exceeded that number somewhat, and not all the settlers were on hand to vote, the visitors chose whom they would to fill the county offices. Polling places were opened on the 10th day of July, at Pool's Ferry on King's river, and also under an oak tree between the St. John's and the foothills. Fifty-eight votes were cast at Pool's Ferry, and fifty-one under the oak tree. Walter H. Harvey was elected County Judge; F. H. Sanford, County Attorney; L. D. F. Edwards, Clerk; William Dill, Sheriff; A. B. Gordon, Recorder; Captain Joseph A. Tirey, Surveyor; A. B. Davis, Assessor; J. C. Frankenberger, Treasurer; and W. H. McMillen, Coroner. Davis failed to qualify as assessor, and Thomas McCormick was appointed to fill the vacancy. J. C. Frankenberger resigned the office of treasurer, and P. A. Rainbolt was appointed in his stead.

                  Of the foregoing officers elected, Edwards was killed by Bob Collins in a row, the next day after the expedition returned to Mariposa. Harvey killed Savage, the leader of the expedition, and there is not now living in the county a single man who took part in that election. Charley Wingfield, who was elected treasurer in 1886, and who died a few months later, was the last. Harvey died miserably of remorse and fear many years ago. He did not remain long in the county. Savage seems to have had many good qualities, and well thought of at the time. He was the Government Indian agent, and was succeeded by Colonel Thomas Baker, for whom Bakersfield was named.

                  A few of the early settlers are yet living in the county and near Visalia. Among the few are A. H. Murray, who came from Missouri and settled on the south side of Mill creek, near Visalia, in 1852, where he has since resided. Judge S. C. Brown, of Visalia, settled there in 1852. Dr. John Cutler came to the county about the same date; also Dick Chaton, Tom Willis, and a Hollander by the name of _________ Steufe. Wiley Watson was born in Georgia in 1812, came to California from Illinois and erected the first brick residence in Visalia, in the fall of 1860.

                   John A. Patterson and Jasper Harrell were among the early pioneers. The first actual settler in the county was William Campbell, who located on King's river. One __________ Woods first located on the Kaweah river in 1850, about six miles from Visalia. He, with a number of others, attempted a settlement for the purpose of engaging in agricultural pursuits. He, with the majority of his party, were killed by the Indians before their buildings were all completed, a full account of which is given elsewhere. The location was designated Woodville, and was the first county seat.