Tulare County
History
History of Tulare and Kings Counties, California - History by Eugene L. Menefee and Fred A. Dodge - Historic Record Company - Los Angeles, California, 1913
CHAPTER XIX
TULARE COUNTY TODAY
Just a trifle over fifty years ago the schoolboy who knew his lesson said, "Tulare county is bounded on the north by Mariposa county, on the east by the state of Nevada, on the south by Santa Barbara county and on the west by the summit of the coast range of mountains." The schoolboy's father, well informed for his day, would have replied in answer to a query as to the county's resources and productions : "It's a derned good cattle country and mebbe, if what I hear about the feed in them mountains is so, it might be a blame good sheep country; and they've found gold up there and they's lots of good farming country along the creek bottoms down here."
True and simple answers, these—how much more difficult today to render such! For now, although a vastly smaller area is embraced within the county, the continued discovery of marvels of nature, the finding of unexpected stores of wealth, the effects of man's assaults upon the fastnesses of the Sierra and of his energy and toil applied to the fertile diversified plain have made of it a task difficult and complicated in the extreme.
When the boy and his father, fifty years ago, described the county and told us to what it was adapted they did not mention that down from those mountains came streams of such volume that the waters, spread over hundreds of thousands of acres of plain, would increase fertility enormously and render possible a diversified culture of fruits and grains and forage. This they could know but vaguely. They did not tell us that beneath the parched plains and worthless hog-wallow land below the foothill slopes ran subterranean streams of ceaseless exhaustless flow, which tapped and their waters spread on the surface would succor and bring to glorious maturity groves of orange and lemon and lime. This they did not know at all.
Now could they foresee that season and soil and water distribution would combine to cause certain portions of the county to become famous for the production of the earliest fruits and grapes of the season, that here the French prune and the cling peach, reaching early maturity and producing extraordinary crops, would become wealth producing factors. Nor could they imagine the thousands upon thousands of acres that were to become perennially green with alfalfa, today supporting great herds of sleek dairy cattle and causing the county to rank almost first in butter production.
And oh, how little of the splendors and the beauties and the awe-compelling wonders that were hidden in that lofty eastern mountain range! They said no word of Mt. Whitney, towering above all other peaks within the nation's boundaries; they did not tell of the immense groves, or rather forests, of giant sequoias, larger, older, than any other trees on earth.
No tale was there of gem-like clusters of glacial lakes, of vast caverns from whose ceilings depended glistening stalactites; naught was said of gorges and chasms, of tumbling cascades or of bright flower-strew meadows.
Overlooked, too, as a factor of future wealth were the miles upon miles of unbroken forest of yellow pine, sugar pine and fir. And little thought was there of a day when the dashing, leaping, whirling waters of the Kaweah and the Tule would be led quietly through cemented conduits to points of vantage, whence they could be released in almost uncontrollable force to move the wheels of industry throughout the county. Yet these things have come to pass.
And there was a day, that also just a little more than fifty years ago, when Indian George, or Captain George, "big Injun heap," ran as expressman, carrying letters and small packages from Visalia to Owens river, the trip occupying four days. It is a far cry from then to the daily visit of the mail carrier, a distant retrospect from then to the luxuriously appointed through trains that now whisk you to Los Angeles or San Francisco during a night.
Some fifty years ago a freight team from Stockton came bringing twenty thousand pounds of goods. This enormous load aroused great interest. Today without comment train load lots of oranges leave the county daily throughout the season. And so we find that in every branch of endeavor giant strides have been made, and a partial record of the steps is found within these pages.
A few of the events that have transpired within the county's boundaries within the past six decades are recorded here. It is well to take a rapid trip over the territory, view it as it exists today, and form a mental picture of its present condition.
Tulare county, situated about midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, at the head of the San Joaquin valley, is one of the largest in the state, having an area of 4935 square miles, or 3,158,400 acres. It has for neighbors Fresno on the north, Kings on the west, Inyo on the east, and Kern on the south.
Its topography, as may be seen by the outline map, is about one-half mountainous, the eastern boundary being the summit of the Sierras. Two large streams, the Kaweah and the Tule, each gathering its waters from an extensive watershed, debouch into the valley portion of the county and permit of a vast irrigating ditch system. As the sources of these streams lie at great elevations, the flow is high during the first of summer on account of the melting of the snow. The detritus from these streams has formed throughout the valley section a deep bed of alluvial soil varying somewhat in the admixture of sand but always friable and productive. A large portion of this delta land is sub-irrigated to the extent that for the growth of alfalfa, grape vines or fruit trees no surface irrigation is necessary.
Back nearer the hills from this lowland belt the land is found less sandy; there is an admixture of clay, decomposed granite, in some places gravel. These soils range from a light red and very friable to a black dry bog, through red, black and yellowish clay formations. Lying in a strip near but not adjacent to the hills, a peculiar formation known as "hog wallow" land exists. Hummocks, little hills of two or three feet in height, here cover the land. This latter soil, formerly held to be worthless, has been found highly fertile and is now being leveled and cultivated so that in a short time the sight of a "hog-wallow" field will be a curiosity.
Naturally, each type of soil has proven itself particularly adapted to certain cultures and the great variation in soils and elevations has produced a very great diversity of production.
Before speaking further of these we will take a survey of towns, cities and railroads that have been built in consequence of them. Again referring to the map we find two almost parallel lines of railroad extending from north to south across the county. These are the main line of the Southern Pacific and the branch or loop line of the same company which extends from Fresno to Famosa. These two lines are connected by a cross line between Exeter and Goshen, which passes through Visalia and over which a number of the through trains run. The Santa Fe line enters the county near Dinuba and after paralleling the Southern Pacific a short distance cuts south across the county to Corcoran and thence southeasterly across the southwest corner of the county.
Between Visalia and Woodlake, passing through Lemon Cove, an electric line is in operation and between Porterville and Springville is a short Southern Pacific branch. The Big Four, an electric road to connect the towns of Visalia, Tulare, Woodville and Porterville, is in course of construction.
The present population is estimated to be about 47,500, this figure being based on the census of 1910, showing 35,440, taken in connection with the increase of election registrations since that time. A fact worthy of note in this connection is that in the decade 19001910, the increase in population of Tulare county was 93.4 per cent.
Visalia, the county seat, with a population of about 6000, is situated at the intersection of the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe lines.
Tulare, southward about ten miles on the main line of the Southern Pacific, and Porterville thirty miles southeast on the branch line of the Southern Pacific, each having a population of about 3500.
Dinuba, Exeter and Lindsay, with populations respectively of 1500, 1200 and 2500, are also situated on the east side branch line. These are the six incorporated cities of the county.
Dinuba, the most northerly, is the center of the raisin belt, which extends easterly through Sultana and Orosi and southerly to Cutler and Yettem. This district also has demonstrated its peculiar adaptability to the growing of early and late grapes for the eastern markets, and for the production of a general variety of deciduous fruits. Oranges also are produced extensively, particularly near Orosi, and south and west of Dinuba one enters a section devoted to dairying. But as a whole, this entire district is a checkerboard of orchards and vineyards. These, all in small tracts, well-kept and generally well-provided with comfortable country homes, present a picture both beautiful and impressive of assured prosperity. This district is well and cheaply irrigated by the waters of Kings river, distributed through the canals of the Alta Irrigation District, which covers 130,000 acres.
Proceeding southward one enters a belt of undeveloped land, contiguous to Monson on the Southern Pacific branch line. A little dairying is practiced here, but in general this section has been neglected. Some leveling of "hog-wallow" land and deep cultivation and drainage would doubtless transform it.
Passing on southward one comes into the rich diversified farming, fruit and dairying section tributary to Visalia. This, too, is the prune belt of the county. Ditches taken from the Kaweah and the St. Johns rivers cover the entire district, which may be said in a general way to extend from Goshen on the west to a point some twelve or fifteen miles up the Kaweah river on the east and to include the territory within a radius of five to ten miles from the city. No oranges are grown in this district, no table grapes and very few raisins. All general farm products, such as hay, grain, corn, pumpkins, Egyptian corn and sugar beets, as well as peaches, pears and prunes, thrive exceedingly and are grown in large quantities. This part of the former wooded belt of the county still retains numbers of fine specimens of natural oak trees and many groves, either in their original condition or merely thinned by the woodman's axe. In every direction the vista is bounded at a short distance by what appears to be an unbroken line of timber. On approach this merges into groups of oaks or single trees, perhaps far apart, or consists of the growth of cottonwood and willows growing on the margin of stream or canal. Soft greens of many shades relieve the landscape no matter what be the season. Not only alfalfa, but natural grasses continuously present the colors of springtime. And in midsummer gayer hues, for everywhere, by roadside, by fence line or ditch bank or in unplowed fields sunflowers flaunt their yellow blossoms. And the summer's heat striking this fallow moisture-soaked loam causes such a riotous growth of all kinds that a general unkempt appearance is presented. Orchard alternates with wood lot and salt grass pasture with corn field and dairy farm. Many tracts of fertile land remain undeveloped.
Yet this section contributes heavily in yearly revenue. Two creameries in Visalia handle about one-fourth of the cream output of the county; nearly all the prunes, having an annual value of about half a million dollars, are produced; there are canning peaches for two large factories, large quantities of fresh and dried fruits are shipped; the beet sugar factory is located here and exports of hay and live stock are constantly made.
Pursuing our way still further south we enter the territory tributary to Tulare without perceiving any change in general characteristics of scene, soil and productions. The oak groves, the alternate farm and orchard continue. A change, however, has taken place as we soon discover. We encounter fewer orchards, alfalfa fields adjoin, making vast meadows. We find that we are in the center of one of the great dairy sections. Fruit growing, frequently in colony tracts, remains a feature, however, and vineyards of considerable acreage are noted. The dairy region here, besides taking in the territory contiguous to Tulare, Tagus and Swan's, joins with the Dinuba country by a narrow strip, passing through Goshen and widening at Traver. This on the north. Southerly and westerly it merges also with the Woodville and Poplar sections.
These latter districts possess some of the richest alluvial soil as yet undeveloped in the county, but so far, dairying, general farming and grain raising have been the only industries. Fruit growing, with every facility of the most favored sections available, has not been engaged in because of the lack of railroad accommodations. The advent of the Big Four will doubtless change this.
From Tipton, on passing through Pixley and Earlimart to the county line, we find vast grain and hay fields, little alfalfa, few fruit trees, much land apparently fertile, unplowed. Also we find large tracts being subdivided, settlers in numbers building homes, water being pumped and alfalfa and orchards being planted. Only in recent years has it been discovered that very cheaply could the fertile lands in these vicinities be made to produce abundantly by pump irrigation. A very rapid increase in population seems assured.
Westward now, towards the lake in the neighborhood of Corcoran, Angiola and Alpaugh, entirely new characteristics confront us. We enter again a great alfalfa belt, not only supplying its dairies with feed, but furnishing enormous quantities of hay for shipment. Great grain fields there are, producing extraordinary yields. Some natural swampy meadow land lies here. In places, instead of irrigation, leveling and drainage are practiced. Artesian wells in many localities supply water for irrigation and for stock.
But we must turn now and look at the country lying along the east side branch railroad. Surprises most extraordinary here await us. So great a difference exists that we can scarcely believe that we are in the same county. Merged indeed the two separate regions are at Orosi, but as one proceeds southward through Exeter, or if he choose, first through Woodlake, Naranjo or Lemon Cove and then on and stops off at either Exeter, Lindsay, Strathmore or Porterville, a scene wholly strange greets the eye.
Orange groves and yet again orange groves, one practically continuous stretch. Not even a fence divides them. The chain of foothills is their background, but it is a rampart up which they climb and into whose recesses all along the way they cluster. No canals or ditches here, no alfalfa, no green mats of salt grass pasture, no oaks nor cottonwoods. Parched and dry, hard and barren looking is the soil in the places unset to orchards. And yet, within them everywhere trickling in little furrows between the rows run streamlets of water, the moisture from them soaking and permeating the soil.
The system of irrigation here is almost wholly that of pumps operated by electric motors, and while this belt lacks the natural beauty of the wooded lowland, it is fast coming to be the most pleasing and attractive to the eye. Avenues lined with palm or other ornamental trees lead to country homes surrounded by handsome lawns and exquisite flower plots.
From Porterville the district extends south through Terra Bella, Ducor and Richgrove to the county line. This portion, however, is of newer development and the process of converting grain ranches into orange groves is but now beginning. Thousands of acres of young orchards are set and thousands more have been purchased for the purpose of planting to citrus fruits, but here and almost only here within the county remains enough land sown to grain to keep harvesters busy and fill warehouses with wheat.
Eastward back of the orange belt extend thousands of acres of foothill grazing range, supporting vast herds. This region is wooded and springs furnishing stock water are numerous. Two gateways there are to the higher Sierras, viz. : Three Rivers for the Kaweah watershed and Springville for the Tule river.
In both of these communities apples of fine quality are grown and orange groves reach to their gates. Beyond and between them the grazing belt extends for many miles, and still beyond, throughout the range of mountains are found extensive meadows and other feeding grounds which furnish pasture for many cattle during the summer months.
At an elevation of about 5000 feet one enters a belt of pine timber. This, mixed with the Sequoia gigantea, and, as one reaches the higher altitudes, with fir and tamarack, extends throughout the county almost unbrokenly. Several sawmills are in operation with an annual cut of about three million feet, but on account of the lack of roads, most of this timber is inaccessible and will probably remain so for many years.
On the way to the higher mountain regions one passes on both the rivers extensive works of electrical power companies. Dams, reservoirs, long high-perched flumes, lines of steel pipe down the mountain side, and the whir of immense dynamos are evidences of the enterprises by which the mountain torrent is harnessed and the river converted into a laborer of the field.
For these utilitarian purposes of producing milling timber and electric energy, for furnishing feed for droves of cattle and for storing the snowfall of winter and returning it to the valley in time for need, the Sierra Nevada mountains are an incalculably valuable asset of Tulare county.
The mountains also constitute a cool summer retreat and are frequented by throngs of health and pleasure seekers each year. Trout fishing in the mountain streams generally is excellent, the Kern lakes and the upper Kern rivers and their tributaries being especially famous in this respect. Hunting for deer and bear is good and the sport has many devotees.
The mountain scenery is of so marvelous a character as to give it a wide-spreading and rapidly increasing fame. For beauty and grandeur the canyon or gorge of the Kern river is comparable only to the Yosemite or to Kings river canyon. Throughout the higher Sierras the effects of volcanic and glacial action, of erosion, disintegration and other forces have caused formations strangely beautiful, impressively awesome, wierdly fantastic. Combining to charm and please are ferns and flowers, silent forests, lawn-like meadows, placid lakes. Streams drop in roaring cascades or fall in sheets of misty vapor. They tinkle, or murmur, or rhythmically roar. Snowy peaks of jagged outline mark the skyline.
Many groves of the giant sequoia are found throughout the range at an elevation of between 5500 and 7500 feet, the largest being known as the Giant Forest. About 5000 of the trees are here located, among them being what so far as known is the largest tree in the world. Hot springs, caves, mineral springs, are other features of attraction. Wholly within the county lies the Sequoia National Park, containing seven townships. The Tule river Indian reservation is located in the southerly mountain section. There are many peaks of thirteen thousand feet and over, several exceeding fourteen thousand feet, and crowning all, Mt. Whitney, 14,502 feet above sea level.
Transcribed by Kathy Sedler.