Misc. Records
Where to Emigrate and Why - Frederick B. Goddard, Peoples Publ. Co., 1869
DAKOTA.
MANY Indian traditions assert that the sacred birthplace of the primal ancestors of all the red men who now inhabit the earth was at the Red Pipestone Quarry, about a hundred miles northward from Yankton, the capital of Dakota. The wandering Sioux of the plains held that the Great Spirit first formed man from a piece of this pipestone. Other tribes believed that the "great freshet" left alive but one person, a virgin. Upon the sacred quarry she was delivered of twins, whose father was a war-eagle, and thus the earth was peopled.
Hence it is, perhaps, that the Indian's symbol of peace is the pipestone calumet—the flesh of their ancestors—and that the quills of the war-eagle decorate the heads of their braves.
Many historians and travelers tell us that the tribes who roamed and warred from the Ohio northward to the great lakes, and westward to the mountains, all sprang from the race of Dakotas, or "friendly people," whose largest villages and choicest hunting-grounds were within the limits of the present Territory.
The first white men ever known to have penetrated these regions were two young Canadians, who made a trip thither in the year 1654, to obtain furs.
The first newspaper in the Mississippi Valley was published in the year 1835, at Dubuque, in what was then Wisconsin Territory. From this vast region have since been created, Iowa in 1838, Minnesota in 1849, Nebraska in 1854, Dakota in 1861, Idaho in 1863, and Montana in 1864.
In 1858, about 16,000,000 acres of land lying in the southern part of the Territory, and watered by the Big Sioux, James, Missouri, and Niobrara rivers, were purchased from the Indians, on condition that they would remove to their reservation near Fort Randall. According to Mr. M. K. ARMSTRONG, of Yankton, in his excellent little "History of Dakota, Montana, and Idaho,"―
Here begins the date of permanent settlement in Dakota, when the retreating red race looked back upon the advancing sentinels of civilization who had come to subdue the wilds, and adorn our rivers with thriving villages. And here we commence the written history of Dakota's white race, established in a land where "wild tribes of men have marched their armies over our towns and fields, and fierce battles have been fought where, ere long, churches may rear their spires, and our plowshares turn furrows amidst the graves of buried races, and our children play, perhaps, where generations of children have played before."
Scarcely had the Indians removed from their old hunting-grounds when settlers began to enter the Territory and erect their western cabins.
In 1859, the first white families settled in the counties of Union, Clay, and Yankton.
* * * * * * * * * *
On the 2d of March, 1861, President Buchanan approved the bill giving to Dakota a territorial government. The news did not reach Yankton until the 13th of the month, and on that day hats, hurrahs, and town lots "went up" to greet the dawning future of the great Northwest. Under its new boundaries the Territory comprised all of the present Territory of Montana and the eastern slope of Idaho, and contained about 350,000 square miles. It was bounded on the north by the British line, east by Minnesota and Iowa, and south by the Iowa line and the Missouri, Niobrara, and Turtle Hill rivers up to and along the forty-third parallel of latitude to the Rocky Mountains thence along the Snowy Range to British America.
Dakota, thus established, constituted the largest Territory in the United States, and afforded a river navigation of more than 2,000 miles. The population of the Territory, by a census taken at that time, was 2,402.
During the summer of 1862 the first discovery of gold had been made in western Dakota, within the present Territories of Idaho and Montana.
Idaho was erected into a Territory on the 3d of March, 1863, and in 1864 Montana was created out of eastern Idaho.
Through the midst of our entire border the Almighty has traced the water-course of one of the mightiest rivers on the continent, rising among cliffs of eternal frost, and bearing upon its bosom the wealth of mountains, the commerce of the valleys, and harvest of the plains, southward to the seas. Not five years of its organized existence have yet elapsed, and notwithstanding the terrors of a three years' relentless Indian war in our midst, the people of our Missouri Valley have steadily advanced to a permanent degree of prosperity, with churches and schools and all the attendants of an enlightened community.
We extract the following from a recent Report of a Committee of the Legislature of Dakota, appointed to collect information respecting the mineral, agricultural, and manufacturing resources of the Territory:―
Dakota Territory occupies the most elevated section of country between the Arctic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico; forming, to a great extent, the water-shed of the two great basins of North America—the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, and the tributaries of Hudson Bay. Thus within the limits of Dakota are found the sources of rivers running diametrically opposite; those flowing northward reach a region of eternal ice, while those flowing southward pass from the haunts of the grizzly bear and the region of wild rice through the cotton-fields and the sugar plantations of the Southerner, until their waters are mingled with the blue waves of the Gulf.
The general surface of the country east and north of the Missouri is a beautiful, rich, undulating prairie, free from marsh, swamp, or slough; traversed by many streams and dotted over with innumerable lakes of various sizes, whose wooded margins, and rocky shores, and gravelly bottoms afford the settler the purest of water, and give to the scenery of the Territory much of its interest and fascination. West of the Missouri the country is more rolling, and gradually becomes broken, hilly, and finally mountainous, as the western limits are reached and terminated by the Rocky Mountains.
The mighty Missouri runs through the very heart of our Territory, and gives us more than one thousand miles of navigable water-course, thus giving us the facility of cheap water transportation, by means of which we can bear away the surplus products of our rich, luxuriant lands to Southern markets, and receive in exchange the trade and commerce of all climes and lands.
We have, located on the Missouri, Big Sioux, Red River of the North, Vermillion, Dakota, Niobrara, millions and millions of acres of the richest and most productive of lands to be found anywhere within the bounds of the National Government.
We have, combined, the pleasant salubrious climate of southern Minnesota, and the fertility of central Illinois.
MINERALS.
COAL.—On the Missouri River at Fort Rice, coal has been discovered in great abundance, some veins from ten to fifteen feet thick. * * * Good cannel coal, or bituminous coal, has been discovered very recently on the Dakota River, about forty miles north of the city of Yankton, near Fort de Roche; also some specimens on the Big Sioux River.
IRON.—There is no limit to the amount of iron ore in Dakota Territory. * * * It crops out on the Missouri River from Bijou hills to above Fort Sully, a distance of one hundred miles —the beds in some places fifty feet thick and inexhaustible.
CLAYS, &c.—There is abundance of clay that will make the best of brick; on the Big Sioux, extending to the noted Red Pipestone Quarry, abundance of white marl, that would make brick of great beauty, resembling the celebrated Milwaukee brick, only of more variable colors. At Sioux Falls, on the Big Sioux River, and at Fort de Roche, on the Dakota River, there is abundance of red sandstone that makes an excellent building stone. There is more or less limestone on all of the streams of Dakota, and very fair building timber on most of the streams.
RIVERS OF DAKOTA.—The Missouri River extends a thousand miles through the Territory, and is navigable for steamboats the entire distance, and hundreds of miles above; the river is from one-half to one-third of a mile wide, and Dr. J. V. Hayden, U. S. Geologist, says thus of it in his report of the Missouri country: "The broad bottom prairies of the Missouri, are of inexhaustible fertility, sustaining a vegetation variable in its character and of enormous growth; the upland prairies possess a soil composed of yellow marl well adapted to agriculture and grazing." This stream is well timbered almost its entire length.
The Big Sioux River is two hundred miles long, a clear running stream of clear water, and quite well timbered; this beautiful valley can not be surpassed for fertility of soil and the variety and luxuriance of its vegetation; the bottom lands on this stream are from a half to three miles wide, and bears an enormous growth of blue-joint grass, which makes hay of an excellent quality.
What has been said of the Big Sioux, may be said of the Dakota and Vermillion rivers, except that there is not so much timber as on the Sioux, and the soil not quite as good on the Dakota River as on the Sioux, although of a very good quality, and well adapted to stock-growing. As to the character and description of the other streams, we shall quote from Lieut. Warren:
"The Big Cheyenne is a most important river, and has its extreme source west of the Black Hills, which its two main branches inclose. These forks are supplied by numerous streams from the mountains, and they unite in about longitude 102° 20', the river flowing into the Missouri in latitude 44° 48'. In its lower course I am informed there is fertile land on its banks, and there are considerable areas in and around the Black Hills. The Cheyenne River can be rafted, and the stream that comes from the hills could be used to drive the logs down the river," and thus a way is opened to this fine supply of timber.
"White Earth River has generally an open well-wooded valley, with fine soil and luxuriant grass. Any one who travels in Nebraska will always feel rejoiced when he reaches the banks of this beautiful stream. It is much resorted to by the Brulés. It has numerous branches, the largest of which is called the South Fork. The pine on White River and its tributaries is nearly equal in extent to that on the Niobrara. This stream has been used by traders to boat down their furs. I believe it can also be used to raft down the pine timber on its banks and branches." Lieut. Warren speaks very favorably of the Niobrara River, which is partly in our Territory, that there is considerable pine timber on its banks and branches, and much good land and excellent water.
The Red River of the North rises in Lake Travers, and flows north 380 miles to the British possessions, is a navigable stream its entire distance, well-wooded, and a soil unsurpassed in fertility. There are a number of other small streams, some of which have abundance of timber, and a good soil, and clear running water. There are quite a number of lakes in East Dakota remarkable for their beauty, and with their sylvan associations form the prominent charm of its rural landscape. There is an abundance of timber on some of these lakes surrounded with a good soil, water, and plenty of fish in the waters of the same. All the streams of Dakota abound in delicious fish of many varieties.
SOIL.—The prevailing soil of Dakota is a dark, calcareous, sandy loam, containing a various intermixture of clay, abounding in mineral salts, and an organic ingredient derived from the accumulation of decomposed vegetable matter, for long ages of growth and decay. The earthy materials of our soil are minutely pulverized, and the soil is everywhere light, mellow, and spongy; while its sandy predominance makes our soil very early. The upland soil of East Dakota can not be surpassed for fertility and the variety and luxuriance of its vegetation.
CROPS.—Your committee have been unable to get any accurate information in relation to the amount of the crops per acre, but from their own personal observation, they are of the opinion that no State or Territory surpasses Dakota in the yield of their crops per acre, and they are of the opinion the average yield of wheat per acre is twenty-five bushels; oats, forty-five; corn, between fifty and sixty; potatoes, two hundred and twenty-five. All vines and garden vegetables yield bountifully.
But for raising wheat, Dakota, we believe is not equaled by any State or Territory in the Union. Our dry, pure atmosphere is what is required for the perfection of this grain; the best wheat grown in the world is the wheat grown on the Red River, within the limits of Dakota. The inhabitants of that section claim sixty bushels as an average yield per acre, and the wheat weighs from sixty-five to seventy pounds per bushel. Every one that has ever seen any of the Red River wheat pronounced it the finest they ever saw. And we are of the opinion that a large portion of our Territory will yield equally as well; some farmers have told your committee of a yield of one hundred and four bushels of potatoes from one and one-fourth bushels of seed, and corn at one hundred bushels per acre.
THE STOCK-GROWING BUSINESS.
Dakota is the finest field in the world for stock-growing. It stands prominent above all other countries as the best for the production of grass. "The grasses," says Farrey, "are proverbially in perfection only in northern and cold regions. It is in the north alone that we raise animals from meadows, and are enabled to keep them fat and in good condition without grain." In none of the prairie districts of North America are the native grasses so abundant and nutritious as on the plains and. in the valleys of Dakota. This is sufficiently proved by the countless herds of buffalo that pasture throughout the year, upon its plains, even north of the 49th parallel of latitude; a fact which suggests an equivalent capacity for the herding of domestic cattle. Horses and cattle roam during summer and winter over the prairies and through the woods, and keep fat without housing or hay. The wild grasses of Dakota, are of many varieties. The blue-joint of the valleys makes the best of hay, and generally yields about three tons per acre. The gramma or buffalo grass of the upland prairies is so nutritious that horses will work all the time, that are fed on it, without any grain, and keep fat. All of the wild grasses of Dakota are more nutritious than any of the tame grasses; cattle become fatter by pasturing on it. When cut it shrinks much less in curing for hay. It seldom heats. There is no dust in the hay. Horses that eat it never have the heaves. The hay in appearance is green, and it smells much sweeter than tame hay. On the whole, it is superior either for pasturage or hay for horses, cattle, or sheep. Owing to the healthiness and the dryness of the climate of Dakota, sheep must do extremely well in Dakota. We have no cold sleet-storms here, that are so fatal to sheep in many countries. The Indians have always kept thousands of horses in this country, but never feed them hay in winter.
MARKETS.—And here we quote from Lieut. Warren, who speaking of the frontier settlements on the prairies, says: "The western frontier has always been looking to the East for a market, but as soon as the wave of emigration has passed over the desert portion of the Plains, to which the discoveres of gold have already given an impetus that will propel it to the Rocky Mountains, then will the present frontier of Nebraska and Dakota become the starting-point of all the products of the Mississippi Valley which the population of the mountains will require." There is at the present time at least a population of fifty thousand persons in the mountains directly west of Dakota, that depend on the country east of their borders to supply them with all the products that they need for consumption, and such is the demand that all kinds of products raised by the farmers in Dakota, including cattle and horses, are worth twenty-five per cent more in Dakota than on the Mississippi River. Some of the farmers of Dakota, the present season, although we have no large farms opened, have raised from fifteen hundred to three thousand dollars' worth of crops. The rich discoveries of gold recently made in all the mountain regions on the western boundary of Dakota, will furnish a better market for years to come, than the farmers of the valley of the Mississippi have at present.
CLIMATE.—In our dry atmosphere the cold is not so intensely felt as in more moist climates. It is impossible to estimate the importance of the manifold services which this characteristic element of the climate of Dakota, the dryness of its atmosphere, renders in the development of all organic life.
The same degree of cold in Dakota is felt much less than in the Atlantic States. Colds, chills, coughs, and all of the pulmonary diseases, are scarcely known in Dakota.
RAILROADS, &c.—We have no railroads yet in Dakota, but a number of lines in Minnesota and Iowa pointing to Dakota. The land-grant railroads in Minnesota that strike the eastern boundary of Dakota are as follows: "Routes one and two, from Stillwater by way of St. Paul, to a point between the foot of Big Stone Lake and the mouth of the Sioux and Wood River, and branch down the Red River of the North." " Routes three and four, from St. Paul to the southern boundary of the State, in the direction of the Big Sioux River."—" Route five, from Winona, via St. Peter, to a point on the Big Sioux River south of the forty-fifth parallel of north latitude."—" This grant was transferred to the Transit Railroad Company." The western terminus of this road was once located temporarily at Sioux Falls, now in Dakota. The company now intend to extend it through our Territory to the Missouri River, near latitude 40°.
Land-grant railroads in Iowa that point toward Dakota:—The Dubuque and Pacific, has its western terminus at Sioux City, Iowa. McGregor Railroad has its western terminus at a point near the northern boundary of Union County, Dakota Territory. It will be seen by the foregoing that there are five railroads, running east and west, that have their western terminus on the eastern boundary of our Territory, giving us in a few years several lines of communication with the East.
The Northern branch of the Central Pacific Railroad starts from Sioux City, and it is expected that it will pass up the Missouri River, through our Territory, to the mouth of the Niobrara, thence up said river to the South Pass. This is by far the best route for that branch. The Northern Central Pacific Railroad will pass directly through our Territory, more than probably up the valley of the Big Cheyenne River.
The capacity of our Territory for raising immense herds of cattle, and for the production of large crops of corn, wheat, oats, rye, barley, buckwheat, potatoes, sorghum, melons, fruits, and vegetables, demonstrate the ability of our country to sustain a dense population.
Shall we not judge of the future by the past ? As regards soil, climate, beautiful uplands, rich prairies, luxuriant bottoms, productive mountain valleys, mineral wealth, navigable rivers upon which to float our cereal products and commercial exchanges, what section of the country within the broad confines of our Republic, is fairer, or lovelier, or richer, or more inviting, as the home of the active, intelligent and industrious citizen ? Before a generation shall have passed more than a million of people will be living in the valley of the Missouri alone, and the Pacific Railroad will have been completed, connecting the two oceans with its iron bands.
Dakota possesses within itself all the elements which are necessary to constitute a great, prosperous and powerful State. Our rich alluvial lands will produce the corn, and the broad prairies the nutritious grasses, which are ample to feed and support cattle to supply every market in the Union.
The Salt lakes in the northern part of the Territory can furnish inexhaustible supplies of the best of salt.
The high rolling prairies south and west of the Missouri seem especially intended for the herdsmen of sheep and the growth of wool.
RESOURCES OF DAKOTA.
The falls on the Big Sioux furnish a motive-power sufficient to drive all the machinery of the New England mills.
The Black Hills and the mountain ranges at the sources of the Wind River, Yellowstone and Missouri are rich beyond conception in mineral resources—of coal, copper, iron, and gold.
With all the elements of power surrounding us—we need but numbers, combined with industry, intelligence, and virtue, to make Dakota one of the most desirable and potent States of the Government.
TO ENCOURAGE MANUFACTORIES,
Our legislature has wisely exempted all property invested in woolen manufactories for a period of ten years, cotton manufactories, twenty years, and one-half of all others, five years; sheep are also exempt a certain number of years from taxation.
In the course of two or three years, several towns are to spring up on the Missouri River, within the Territory of Dakota, and. between the mouth of the Big Sioux River and the mouth of the Big Cheyenne River, that will vie with Omaha, Nebraska City, and Leavenworth, for the overland trade to Montana, Idaho, and the northern Pacific States. These new towns will have the advantage of some several hundred miles distance, over Omaha, Nebraska City, and Leavenworth. The thousand miles of country between St. Louis and Fort Sully, Dakota, must soon be supplied with pine lumber from the several millions of acres of pine land of the "Black Hills of Dakota," via the White Earth and Big Cheyenne rivers; and we look to see the prediction of J. W. Taylor, fulfilled the coming spring, who says: Even if there were no proofs of gold, silver, iron and copper in the gulches of the Black Hills, the demand for pine lumber in the valleys of the lower Missouri, will send armed parties into the forests which darken the flanks of the mountains. Give Dakota the supply of pine timber to the towns and plains below, and a greater accumulation of wealth, a greater stimulant of agriculture and commerce are assured to the pioneers of this Territory, than if the Black Hills proved as auriferous as California.
RED RIVER VALLEY.—This valley in Dakota, is about two hundred miles long, and from forty to sixty miles in width, covering an area of eight thousand square miles, or more than five million acres of land, and possesses greater natural advantages than any district of country in the West now open to settlement.
THE RIVERS.—There are eight rivers, varying in length from forty to one hundred miles, that run across this valley from west to east, emptying into Red River, within this Territory, each having numerous creeks and small tributaries that water the country upon each side.
THE TIMBER.—The timber, which is oak, ash, elm, poplar, lynn, and maple, is that which will be used for the various purposes of the farmer for building and fencing, and the various kinds of small timber grown in a timbered country are interspersed with the above.
Like all prairie countries, the timber is chiefly confined to the water-courses, or in groves, and there is hardly a creek without its belt of timber, in and near which are found the various kinds of wild fruits, such as raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, gooseberries, currants, cranberries, grapes, plums, &c., in large quantities and of excellent quality.
THE SOIL.—The soil is a black sandy loam, of alluvial and vegetable deposit, from two and a half to four feet seep, resting upon a stratum of yellow clay four to ten feet in thickness. This soil is exceedingly rich, and easily worked, and in a state of nature yields a luxuriant growth of blue-joint grass, which makes a quality of hay almost equal to the timothy and herdsgrass of the Middle States.
WHAT WILL GROW.—The grains now raised, and to which the country is especially adapted, are wheat, rye, barley, and oats. The yield per acre being in excess of any thing known east of the Rocky Mountains, but to say fully equal to Minnesota will be quite modest, and will fall below rather than above the truth. Every thing in the line of garden vegetables is raised in the greatest abundance and of the very best quality, with a heavier yield than is usual in the Middle States, and with far less labor.
OUR WINTERS.—The great dread of deep snow and cold winters in so high a northern latitude is altogether imaginary. The average depth of snow for the last ten years has not exceeded sixteen inches, which usually remains upon the ground from about the 15th of November to the 1st of March, and while the mercury may fall to even thirty-five degree's below zero, owing to the absence of high winds the weather does not seem rigorous, nor does it seem as cold as it does in Michigan or Ohio when the mercury is at, or even from five to ten degrees above, zero.
The snow does not drift as in open prairie countries; and as good sleighing can be relied upon, no trouble is experienced in winter traveling. Cattle and horses that are allowed to run at large in the timber, gather their own living, and but little if any hay is given them during the winter months.
OUR MARKETS.—There are but few sections in the United States that have a better home market for their surplus products than has the Red River valley at the present time. The Red River being navigable from lower Fort Garry, in British America, eighty-five miles north of our northern boundary, to Fort Abercrombie, in this Territory, two hundred miles south of said boundary, making a total distance of two hundred and eighty-five miles, the steamer "International" affords cheap transportation for our surplus products which are purchased by the Hudson's Bay Company for the supply of their army of employees and trading posts in the interior of their territory; and in addition to this, the various military posts in northeastern Dakotah, and the mining country of the Saskatchawan, in British America, will look to this valley for supplies.
With an eye to this future granary of the West, capitalists are pushing a railroad from St. Paul, north and west, to tap this valley at or near the head of navigation on the Red River, in order to carry to eastern markets our grain, beef, pork, butter, cheese, wool, furs, &c., and to do the already gigantic carrying trade of the Hudson's Bay Company and the British settlements. Eighty miles of this road are already in running order, and within a very few years it will be extended to the Red River, placing us in direct communication, by water and rail, with St. Paul, Chicago, and the East.
PUBLIC LANDS.—The survey of public lands in the Red River valley was commenced by the Government late last summer, and with the exception of a few townships subdivided on the Pembina River, only boundary and meridian lines were run. But during the coming summer the surveys will be extended.
And it is confidently expected that, in compliance with the memorial of the present session of our legislature, Congress will provide for the establishment of a United States land office in the Red River valley, thereby enabling settlers to secure title to their lands by homesteads or pre-emptions.
OUR MINERALS.—Except coal and salt, we have as yet discovered no minerals in this valley. It is, however, believed that various valuable metals will be discovered in the Pembina and Turtle mountains. But of salt there is an inexhaustible supply. Coal has but recently been discovered near the east base of Pembina Mountain, and accessible to the settlements; and while it is known to be very extensive, its quality has not as yet been tested.
CORRESPONDENCE.
We are indebted to the writer of the foregoing respecting the Red River valley, for the following letter:―
TERRITORY OF DAKOTA, COUNTY OF PEMBINA,
PEMBINA, July 28, 1868.
F. B. GODDARD, Esq.:—
SIR : * * * As there is plenty of excellent prairie and timber land vacant and subject to pre-emption and homestead, there is no price fixed on unimproved lands. The usual labor required in a new country is in demand, at from $1 to $3 per day, and of mechanics, blacksmiths are most needed at good prices.
As yet we are badly provided with good schools, and many of our settlers send their children to Fort Garry, in the British Red River settlement, where they have very good schools of all kinds.
There are but two church buildings in this county, both Catholic. In population, French extraction predominates.
Pembina County embraces the whole Red River valley in Dakota, from the British American line south to the river Cheyenne, a distance of about 150 miles, and extending west from the Red River about 35 miles. This whole section is a fine farming country.
Yours truly,
E. STUTSMAN.
Mr. ARMSTRONG, to whose work we have referred in the earlier pages of this article upon Dakota, sends us the following communication:―
Yankton, the capital of Dakota, is situated on the Missouri River, 60 miles above Sioux City, present terminus of Chicago and Northwestern Railroad; contains 1,000 people, two churches, two schools, one seminary. Land is worth $10 per acre within three miles of town. Business lots worth $200 to $500. Good residence lots, $100. Timber land is worth from $10 to $40 per acre. Pine lumber is worth $35 per M.; cottonwood, $20. The river furnishes an outlet to the eastern markets, but most of the farmers' produce is sold to the Indian agencies and military posts up river, at high prices. M. K. A.
We insert the following from a Dakota paper of July, 1868, on Immigration:―
About 30,000 acres of land were taken by pre-emption and homesteads at the Vermillion Land Office last month, and probably as much or more will be taken during the month of July. Our Territory is rapidly filling up with the very best class of population, consisting of thrifty and industrious farmers and mechanics. Crops, all over the Territory, promise an abundant yield, and Dakota may now be considered on the high road to future wealth and prosperity. The land which is entered is rising rapidly in value, but still there is enough remaining for all who desire to make homes in our midst. Our rich and valuable lands are not in the hands of eastern speculators, but are reserved for actual settlers. We trust that emigrants will give no credence to the falsehoods that are in circulation in some parts of Iowa, concerning Dakota and its agricultural resources. Let them come and satisfy themselves of their falsity. There is no State or Territory in the United States that can boast of finer soil, healthier climate, or more inducements for emigration than Dakota, and this is beginning to be known in the populous districts of the East.
Transcribed by Kathy Sedler.